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First wall 40m left/north (facing the cliff) of the metal descent steps


Take care and take the walking track down and then up around the direct traverse

Ethic inherited from Joll's Bridge

There are a couple of mixed routes but the majority have been retrobolted to bring the crag into the 21st century. If it is still mixed gear, leave it like that!



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Grade Route

This is the far southern end of the crag. Initialled AH. Up left of cave and flake past 4 RBs to new lower offs. Rebolted by Vanessa Wills 2010

FA: andrew powell & linda leman, 1993

A bit contrived - try not to use any holds of Absolute Honey. Direct to first ring shared with AH then pass a bolt, traverse left to flake under a ring bolt and up pass another bolt. Shared anchors with 'Sniffing Dogs'

FA: ross linsley & paul riviere, 1993

Starts at right side of large cave pass 5 RBs, veering right at end to shared anchors with Rapunzel

FA: ross linsley, andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993

Mixed gear with old carrots and a couple of cams #0.5 - 1 to get you to the top.

FA: John Wilde, 1993

Pump up those beginners. Starts 2m L of Wilde Thing. Reach your way up through the blocks round top and up passing tree to top.

FA: Nat Nichols & Sussie Early, 1993

Start 2m right of HGSA at small crack. Up past 3 BRs to RB, step slightly left then past 2nd RB to double bolt belay (weasel exit on right side of RB about 19)

FA: Dale Tweedie & Daniel Webster, 28 Sep 2009

Mixed gear - hex bolts and a couple of cams. Has not been retro-bolted. Yet another gem that does not let up till you haul through the final bulge. Start 3m L of King Kong. Boulder up past friend to bolt runner, grunt over bulge up to orange wall. Finger your way through this to overhang and friend #2 placement. Thin moves and a goose step (bolt) surmount the orange face before a juggy overhanging finish (FH). Two bolts on block at top for anchor. Needs bolt plates and cams.

FA: Phill Stallard & Andrew Powell, 1993

At slightly higher level at right side of bowl. Up past 2 carrots and a large angophora tree to DRBB

FA: nat nichols & sussie Early, 1993

Initialled BLSB. Up smooth orange rock past carrot to traverse right then up flake. Mostly trad. Traverse left at top to tree. Best led with double ropes or long slings. Although graded 19 it can seem quite difficult if this is your limit

FA: andrew powell & Tim Maroney, 1993

Start as for BLS. At the horizontal break at 3/4 height, traverse left along Cam break to join CBC and up via FH.

Start at white square 2m L of BLSB. CLip first RB from ledge then up, or return to ground for more value. Hard moves from pocket to flake then push on to ledge, anchors on wall above. Retro-ring bolted 2011.

FA: P Riviere, 1993

The trad corner, often dirty, now has lower offs

Starts 1m L of the corner. Has been fully rebolted, take care getting to second bolt. Shares anchors with BBB to left.

FA: ross linsley & paul riviere, 1993

Just L of F&B is a stunning black wall. Initialled BBB. All on RBs now. Hard moves through pockets then balancy step right and up to ledge and crack to shared anchors with route to right

FA: andrew powell & Phil Stallard, 1993

The route 4m L of BBB. Great positions up the inviting crack. Starts from down on the lower level, left of the boulder. Up the easy initial lower section, then onto the wall heading L to the crack. Goods moves and a couple of classic jams along the way. Veer right at end to loweroffs. Retro ring bolted 2012.

FA: andrew powell & tim maroney

Set by andrew powell & tim maroney, 1993

Start left of block (initialled) and mantle moves to ledge and finger crack. Hand traverse left under roof then tricky moves to second roof and back onto arete into flared hand crack. Beware of horn at top. Double ropes to lead best. DRBs at top.

Retrobolted. Start under R hand side of roof 1m to the left of TBTW (initialled). Yellow rock. Up passing rings, veer left then traverse back under 2 roofs to join the upper crack as TBTW to same finish Originally done with cams now fully ring bolted.

FA: J Wilde & D Wilde, 1994


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