Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Kangaroo Island 24 routes in Region

Summary:
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seasonality
All Trad

Long/Lat: 137.275804, -35.823094

1.1. Cape Willoughby 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 138.129762, -35.844921

Description:

Located on the Eastern tip of Kangaroo Island, below the lighthouse. Some climbs can be top roped (with trad anchors) but are few and far between.

To get to Ugly Death Wall and Schweppes Wall, from the car park, head right and forwards towards the cliff. You will encounter a fence, get over the fence by stepping on the conveniently placed park bench.

Access Issues:

Schweppes Wall should only be climbed when it is low tide.

Lighthouse Wall is on National Park property.

Ugly Death Wall and Schweppes Wall are on Council property.

Climb at your own risk.

Approach:

27km East of Penneshaw along an unsealed road, but fairly well maintained road.

1.1.1. Lighthouse Wall 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

This neat wall lies directly below the lighthouse. Approach via abseil (35m) to the broad platform at its base. Take care at the top of the routes here as most finish on vegetated ledges where belays are tricky to arrange. The vegetation consists mainly of succulent ground covers. Treading on these in friction boots can be very dangerous.

Description from “The Adelaide Hills, A Rock Climber’s Guide” by Nick Neagle

Access Issues:

Watch out for big waves.

Approach:

A neat wall due east of the lighthouse. Abseil 35m to the broad ledge at its base and watch out for big waves.

Description from 'Rockclimbing around Adelaide' by Paul Badenoch and Luke Adams

1.1.2. Ugly Death Wall 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.131975, -35.843576

Description:

This is the biggest section of cliff on the western side of the major gully to the R (facing out) of the lighthouse. Needless to say the rock is not good.

Description from “The Adelaide Hills, A Rock Climber’s Guide” by Nick Neagle

This wall consists of weird chalky granite.

Approach:

The weathered wall to the right of Schweppes Wall. Take the name literally - it consists of weird chalky granite.

Description from 'Rockclimbing around Adelaide' by Paul Badenoch and Luke Adams

1.1.3. Schweppes Wall 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.132272, -35.843731

Description:

L of Ugly Death Wall is a corner containing two huge jammed boulders. L again is a low angle wall with a huge flake at its L end.

Description from “The Adelaide Hills, A Rock Climber’s Guide” by Nick Neagle

Access Issues:

You want to check that it is low tide unless you want to get washed away.

Approach:

The easy-angled wall in the centre of the south side of the big gully near the light house. Abseil in or scramble down from the head of the gully.

Description from 'Rockclimbing around Adelaide' by Paul Badenoch and Luke Adams

1.2. Remarkable Rocks 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 136.757594, -36.048179

Description:

Great potential for climbing but in a National Park and regulations are unclear.

Approach:

Park in Remarkable Rocks car park and follow boardwalk down to rocks, Strawberry Jam boulder is just East of the Main Sector, towards the cliffs, watch out!