Nursery Cliffs Mostly trad climbing14 routes in cliff
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Access issues inherited from Kangaroo Point
The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.
You can get to the base of the 'Nursery Cliffs' by walking up the metal stairs at the rightmost (southern) end of the main cliff, by walking down the stairs next to the gazebo on River Terrace or by walking/driving up Lower River Terrace off Ellis St.
The top is accessible directly off River Terrace.
Ethic inherited from Kangaroo Point
Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:
- Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
- Don't ever chip holds.
- Don't paint on any new initials.
- Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
Start 10 m right. Up arête on right side using good holds all the way. Avoid the swing around the left side of the arête.
Start 2 m right. Scramble to crack in wall. Up this with nice protection to top out.
Start 3 m right. Shallow corner then traverse left and easy to top.
Start 4 m right. Delicately up to nose (BR). Over this small roof to protection in the horizontal crack. Reach jug and easy finish.
Start 1 m right. Wandering line of least resistance to the corner and finish up this to top out.
Start 4 m right. Climb corner to below arête. Easily up this to top.
Start 1 m right. Up slab to ledges and top out.
Start 2 m right. The line of least resistance up the easy ledges.