Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

This is the northern-most section of the 'Kangaroo Point' cliffs, beginning at the stone stairs and continuing north to where the cliff ends near Riverlife. CLIMBING IS CURRENTLY PROHIBITED HERE!

The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is currently negotiating the reopening of at least part of this section of cliff. In order not to jeopardise these negotiations, please do not climb here. Please do join the ACAQ.

Climbs are listed from left to right.

Access issues inherited from Kangaroo Point

The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.

Ethic inherited from Kangaroo Point

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
18 Untitled Route Trad 10m
2

FA: Chris O'Neill & Peter Stebbins, 1999

3
25 Mutant Sea Bass Trad 10m

FA: Peter Stebbins & Chris O'Neill, 1999

4
14 Trash Thrash Trad 14m

FA: Jonathon Dwyer & Michael Woodrow

5
18 Dazed and Confused Trad 14m

FA: Tony Young & Michael Woodrow

6

FA: Richard Henderson & Scott Camps, 1986

7
FR A1+ Magic Carpet Ride Aid 14m

Contrived.

FA: Fraser Chetterton & Matt Tatham, 1996

8
22 * Spack Attack Sport 14m

A direct finish was done by Paul Hoskins at about 25. The name was a tribute to Moira who had her leg broken in an accident on Crookneck.

FA: Michael Woodrow & Jonathan Dwyer, 1986

9
23 * Raped in a Church Trad 11m

FA: Michael Woodrow & Jonathan Dwyer, 1986

10
24 ** Tode Mode Trad 11m

FA: Roger Bourne, 1985

11
20 ** The New Order Sport 11m

FA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1993

12

Contrived.

FA: Roger Bourne, Even Bieske & Andrew Barry, 1984

13

Contrived.

FA: Roger Bourne, 1984

FA: Solo Roger Bourne, 1984

14
17 * Gash Flash Trad 11m

FA: Andrew Barry, Roger Bourne & Evan Bieske, 1984

15

FA: Reynold Cope & Paul McAntee, 1986

16
17 R Jets Over Jordon Trad 10m

FA: Nick Heywood, 1985

17

FA: Darren Holloway & Jonathon Dwyer, 1985

FA: Darren Holloway & Jonathon Dwyer, 1985

18

Mick Woodrow's first FA... ignominious!

FA: Michael Woodrow & Eddie Irvine, 1984

19
14 M1 R Garbage Aid 25m

Possibly the worst excuse for a climb at 'Kangaroo Point'. Neil meerly used this climb as an extended test block for his newly purchased hand-drill and etriers. On the same day he had to rescue a lost student who decided to solo up the white choss to get to TAFE.

Start: A few metres left of big white choss pile.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

20
24 Foreclosure V Trad 20m

FA: Unknown ('s), 1980

21

FA: Neil Monteith & Simon Hennig (toprope), 1993

22
19 Forever Gumby Trad 18m

FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 2000

23
24 Miasma Trad 20m

FA: Lee Skidmore, 1999

24
18 GR Trad 20m

FA: Unknown, 2000

25
17 R EC Trad 20m

FA: Unknown ('s), 1970

26
19 R Suicidal Tendency Trad 13m

Not pretty and not popular. Neil's first ever new route.

FA: Neil Monteith & Simon Hennig, 2000

27
14 A2 R Initial Adustment Aid 15m

Simon and Neil intially adjusted about two tonnes of loose rock off this route before roping up for the first ascent. It was top-roped originally at grade 17, ignored for many years (for good reasons) then Neil came back and aided and drilled his way up for practice one afternoon. The remaining hangerless bolts are questionable!

FA: Neil Monteith (FTRA - Neil Monteith & Simon Hennig -), 1993

28

FA: Edwardo Irvine & Darren Holloway ('s), 1988

29
21 ** Rear Entry Sport 20m

FA: Andrew Barry & Robbie Allen, 1984

30

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

31
20 * Wallbanger Trad 20m

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

32
19 Call the Cops Sport 15m

FA: Dave Whitworth & Darrin Carter, 1996

33
16 Trolly's Triumph Trad 17m

FA: Geoff Baker & Michelle Spuler, 1997

34
21 Where's Rocky? Trad 17m

FA: Geoff Baker & Michelle Spuler, 1997

35
24 Oh Mighty Gumby Trad 17m

FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 1997

36
21 Lord Gumby Trad 17m

FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 1997

37
18 Gumby's Demise Trad 17m

FA: Geoff Baker & Steve MacGillivray, 1997

38
14 Bum Full' Pikers V Trad 16m

At the 3rd BR, go right.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

39

FA: Evan Bieske, Roger Bourne & Andrew Barry, 1984