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Description

This is the northern-most section of the 'Kangaroo Point' cliffs, beginning at the stone stairs and continuing north to where the cliff ends near Riverlife. Climbs are listed from left to right.

Access issues inherited from Kangaroo Point

The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.

Ethic inherited from Kangaroo Point

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

This obscure route is located on a small wall on the left side of the old Navy Stores building (Now perhaps Riverlife?). Two dodgy FH's lead the way up a series of good edges.

FA: 1995

FA: Chris O'Neill & Peter Stebbins, 1999

FA: Peter Stebbins & Chris O'Neill, 1999

A rather interesting excursion up the small red corner. At two thirds height step right and finish up easy ground.

FA: Jonathon Dwyer & Michael Woodrow, 1985

Up the crack and pipe hole with difficulty to a BR. Push past this with difficulty to an easy finish over blocks.

FA: Tony Young & Michael Woodrow, 1985

Hard and sustained climbing up the chipped pockets past two BR's leads to easier ground and the top. Quite undergraded.

FA: Richard Henderson & Scott Camps, 1986

Contrived. Up Spack Attack then traverse right and hook up edges to top.

FA: Fraser Chetterton & Matt Tatham, 1996

A direct finish was done by Paul Hoskins at about 25. The name was a tribute to Moira who had her leg broken in an accident on Crookneck. Up the delicatee face left o RIAC to a crack then up past two BR's. At the second BR trend left and up to finish. Very sustained.

FA: Michael Woodrow & Jonathan Dwyer, 1985

Up wall trending left past two BR's to Tode Mode's ledge. Finish up Tode Mode's crack to top. A barbed wire fence once existed below this climb making falls a scary proposition!

FA: Michael Woodrow & Jonathan Dwyer, 1985

Very hard edging and briding up face and crack past a BR leads to a small ledge. Place pro in crack and crank up to top and chain.

FA: Roger Bourne, 1985

Clip BR from ground and boulder up. Mantle sloping hold and continue up the nice arete past another two BR's to an easy finish.

FA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1993

Contrived. Up Gash Flash VS then continue up the arete placing gear in the Gash Flash crack.

FA: Roger Bourne, Even Bieske & Andrew Barry, 1984

Contrived. Up the thin wall left of the corner to a notch in the wall at five metres. Traverse right and finish up the original line.

FA: Roger Bourne, 1984

FA: Solo Roger Bourne, 1984

Difficult bridging up a dark corner leads to an enjoyable layback and an easy finish. Tree belay. Try this one before visiting Frog!

FA: Andrew Barry, Roger Bourne & Evan Bieske, 1984

Start five metres right of the obvious corner. Up the short crack left of the arete then continue up ledges to top.

FA: Reynold Cope & Paul McAntee, 1986

Start at the small buttress left of the previous climb. Up bulging cracks to a stance. Up unprotected crap rock to top.

FA: Nick Heywood, 1985

The chossy start left of the original.

FA: Darren Holloway & Jonathon Dwyer, 1985

Mick Woodrow's first FA... ignominious! Crap climbing in between vertical dirt. Start ten metres before the cliff turns left. Up blocks to a grassy ledge. Up and left to the manky corner and climb this to the dirty top.

FA: Michael Woodrow & Eddie Irvine, 1984

Possibly the worst excuse for a climb at 'Kangaroo Point'. Neil meerly used this climb as an extended test block for his newly purchased hand-drill and etriers. On the same day he had to rescue a lost student who decided to solo up the white choss to get to TAFE.

Start several metres left of large white landslide at BR. Up mank to ledge and BR. Up corner above past dodgy aid bolt and BR to below crack. Aid up this to ledge and BR. Scramble up dirt ledges to top. Possibly the same climb as Endoplasmic Exterminator?

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

Up easy, loose crack under roof (will clean up with traffic) to a ring bolt then up to a nice crack with good gear. Continue up crack for a few moves to grassy ledge. Climb onto the arete past two ring bolts and up to DBB. Unique climbing for KP with a few different styles of climbing involved.

FA: Unknown ('s), 1980

Up easy crack to below the roof. Layback out right onto small ledge and climb nice crack to grassy ledge. Up sustained wall on right of sharp arete to loose top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Simon Hennig (TR), 1993

FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 2000

FA: Lee Skidmore, 1999

Up the face to a knife-blade arete. Up this to a drill hole and finish.

FA: Unknown

Start left of pipe below blocky cave at ten metres. Up the wall, past cave on right and up to the horrendous looking 'springboard' block. Keep away from this and finish up wall above to top.

FA: Unknown ('s), 1970

Not pretty and not popular. Neil's first ever new route. Up wall with hard reach move to jug and FH. Up loose thin crack (rock #1) then reach left to flake and FH. Up blocky ledges (FH) then mantle onto ledge and traverse right to chain. Bold and loose between first and second FH.

FA: Neil Monteith & Simon Hennig, 1993

Simon and Neil intially adjusted about two tonnes of loose rock off this route before roping up for the first ascent. It was top-roped originally at grade 17, ignored for many years (for good reasons) then Neil came back and aided and drilled his way up for practice one afternoon. The remaining hangerless bolts are questionable!

Start at initials 'IA' left of OLBDNSWD. Locate thin crack. Aid up this on small to medium wires to below vegetated ledge. Matnel this (BR) to rest. Up right past aid bolt to another mantle onto a small ledge below smooth headwall and BR. Aid up the wall past three more aid bolts then traverse directly left to 'ST's chain. Rap off. Warning - bolts may be very weak by now.

FA: Neil Monteith (FTRA - Neil Monteith, 1993

Start 2m left of Rear Entry. Up thin face passing two BR's to a good hold. Up and left (BR) on small holds (crux) to big hold and BR. Over small roof to chain. Short climb but a long name!

FA: Edwardo Irvine & Darren Holloway, 1988

More joy. Up past a BR then traverse slightly right and up to small ledge. Clip high BR and fire straight up the improbable looking wall to another BR. Traverse left and up to below block. Clip final BR and jug up to chain. Rap off.

FA: Andrew Barry & Robbie Allen, 1984

Yes! Hard layback start protected by a BR. Push over bulge to another BR and thin face. Clip another BR and push onwards to clip last BR and grasp the hefty undercling. Push up to jug and chain. Rap off or continue up passing another BR to higher chain.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

Boulder the start passing a BR to a ledge (small wire). Up past a BR to the overhung corner (PR or small wires). Finish up the corner to loose top, or keep to the left arete for a better finish.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

Start just right of Wallbanger. Four BR's to chain.

FA: Dave Whitworth & Darrin Carter, 1996

FA: Geoff Baker & Michelle Spuler, 1997

FA: Geoff Baker & Michelle Spuler, 1997

FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 1997

FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 1997

FA: Geoff Baker & Steve MacGillivray, 1997

Historical: At the 3rd BR of A Bum Full of Fists, go right up angled corner to top past BR.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

Description added for historical value: 2016 council works have now completely changed this classic route. Obvious arete left of stairs. Start up face (BR) to small ledge. Up loose corner on jugs passing a BR, drill hole sling, then a BR. Reach left around arete to clip BR and swing left and up overhang (crux) to slab (BR). Up this placing a wire in crack to top.

FA: Evan Bieske, Roger Bourne & Andrew Barry, 1984

Activity

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