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KP North (closed) 39 routes in Cliff

  • Avg. Height: 16m
  • Style: Trad,Sport and Aid
  • Ascents: 261
  • Aka: Left of Stairs
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Description:
Vertical Face Wet in rain Afternoon sun NW

This is the northern-most section of the 'Kangaroo Point' cliffs, beginning at the stone stairs and continuing north to where the cliff ends near Riverlife. CLIMBING IS CURRENTLY PROHIBITED HERE!

The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is currently negotiating the reopening of at least part of this section of cliff. In order not to jeopardise these negotiations, please do not climb here. Please do join the ACAQ.

Climbs are listed from left to right.

Access Issues: inherited from Kangaroo Point

The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.

Ethic: inherited from Kangaroo Point
Well established Closed

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
Tags:
Walk off Rap off Flat Tuff <5 min

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Untitled Route
18
Trad 10m
2 International Man of Mystery

FA: Chris O'Neill & Peter Stebbins, 1999

24
Trad 11m
3 Mutant Sea Bass

FA: Peter Stebbins & Chris O'Neill, 1999

25
Trad 10m
4 Trash Thrash

FA: Jonathon Dwyer & Michael Woodrow,

14
Trad 14m
5 Dazed and Confused

FA: Tony Young & Michael Woodrow,

18
Trad 14m
6 Boys, Bolts and Balls Ups

FA: Richard Henderson & Scott Camps, 1986

21
Sport 14m
7 Magic Carpet Ride

Contrived.

FA: Fraser Chetterton & Matt Tatham, 1996

A1+
Aid 14m
8 * Spack Attack

A direct finish was done by Paul Hoskins at about 25. The name was a tribute to Moira who had her leg broken in an accident on Crookneck.

FA: Michael Woodrow & Jonathan Dwyer, 1986

22
Sport 14m
9 * Raped in a Church

FA: Michael Woodrow & Jonathan Dwyer, 1986

23
Trad 11m
10 ** Tode Mode

FA: Roger Bourne, 1985

24
Trad 11m
11 ** The New Order

FA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1993

20
Sport 11m
12 A Dingo Got My Floater

Contrived.

FA: Roger Bourne, Even Bieske & Andrew Barry, 1984

23
Trad 11m
13 Gash Flash (Variant Start)

Contrived.

FA: Roger Bourne, 1984

FA: Solo Roger Bourne, 1984

23
Trad 11m
14 * Gash Flash

FA: Andrew Barry, Roger Bourne & Evan Bieske, 1984

17
Trad 11m
15 Return of the Mankhouse

FA: Reynold Cope & Paul McAntee, 1986

16
Trad 13m
16 Jets Over Jordon

FA: Nick Heywood, 1985

17 R
Trad 10m
17 Endoplasmic Exterminator (Variant Start)

FA: Darren Holloway & Jonathon Dwyer, 1985

FA: Darren Holloway & Jonathon Dwyer, 1985

17
Trad 20m
18 Endoplasmic Exterminator

Mick Woodrow's first FA... ignominious!

FA: Michael Woodrow & Eddie Irvine, 1984

14 R
Trad 20m
19 Garbage

Possibly the worst excuse for a climb at 'Kangaroo Point'. Neil meerly used this climb as an extended test block for his newly purchased hand-drill and etriers. On the same day he had to rescue a lost student who decided to solo up the white choss to get to TAFE.

Start: A few metres left of big white choss pile.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

14 M1 R
Aid 25m
20 Foreclosure V

FA: Unknown ('s), 1980

24
Trad 20m
21 Foreclosure of a Dream

FA: Neil Monteith & Simon Hennig (toprope), 1993

21
Trad 20m
22 Forever Gumby

FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 2000

19
Trad 18m
23 Miasma

FA: Lee Skidmore, 1999

24
Trad 20m
24 GR

FA: Unknown, 2000

18
Trad 20m
25 EC

FA: Unknown ('s), 1970

17 R
Trad 20m
26 Suicidal Tendency

Not pretty and not popular. Neil's first ever new route.

FA: Neil Monteith & Simon Hennig, 2000

19 R
Trad 13m
27 Initial Adustment

Simon and Neil intially adjusted about two tonnes of loose rock off this route before roping up for the first ascent. It was top-roped originally at grade 17, ignored for many years (for good reasons) then Neil came back and aided and drilled his way up for practice one afternoon. The remaining hangerless bolts are questionable!

FA: Neil Monteith (FTRA - Neil Monteith & Simon Hennig -), 1993

14 A2 R
Aid 15m
28 ** Ode to the Lesser Breasted Droopy Nippled Screeching Wood Duck

FA: Edwardo Irvine & Darren Holloway ('s), 1988

24
Sport 16m
29 ** Rear Entry

FA: Andrew Barry & Robbie Allen, 1984

21
Sport 20m
30 *** Fowl Deeds in the Chookhouse

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

23 R
Sport 20m
31 * Wallbanger

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

20
Trad 20m
32 Call the Cops

FA: Dave Whitworth & Darrin Carter, 1996

19
Sport 15m
33 Trolly's Triumph

FA: Geoff Baker & Michelle Spuler, 1997

16
Trad 17m
34 Where's Rocky?

FA: Geoff Baker & Michelle Spuler, 1997

21
Trad 17m
35 Oh Mighty Gumby

FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 1997

24
Trad 17m
36 Lord Gumby

FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 1997

21
Trad 17m
37 Gumby's Demise

FA: Geoff Baker & Steve MacGillivray, 1997

18
Trad 17m
38 Bum Full' Pikers V

At the 3rd BR, go right.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

14
Trad 16m
39 * A Bum Full of Fists

FA: Evan Bieske, Roger Bourne & Andrew Barry, 1984

16
Trad 20m
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