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Table of contents

1. KP North (closed) 39 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 153.034778, -27.475832

Description:

This is the northern-most section of the 'Kangaroo Point' cliffs, beginning at the stone stairs and continuing north to where the cliff ends near Riverlife. CLIMBING IS CURRENTLY PROHIBITED HERE!

The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is currently negotiating the reopening of at least part of this section of cliff. In order not to jeopardise these negotiations, please do not climb here. Please do join the ACAQ.

Climbs are listed from left to right.

Access Issues: inherited from Kangaroo Point

The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.

Ethic: inherited from Kangaroo Point

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Untitled Route 18Trad 10m
2 International Man of Mystery

FA: Chris O'Neill & Peter Stebbins, 1999

24Trad 11m
3 Mutant Sea Bass

FA: Peter Stebbins & Chris O'Neill, 1999

25Trad 10m
4 Trash Thrash

FA: Jonathon Dwyer & Michael Woodrow

14Trad 14m
5 Dazed and Confused

FA: Tony Young & Michael Woodrow

18Trad 14m
6 Boys, Bolts and Balls Ups

FA: Richard Henderson & Scott Camps, 1986

21Sport 14m
7 Magic Carpet Ride

Contrived.

FA: Fraser Chetterton & Matt Tatham, 1996

A1+Aid 14m
8 * Spack Attack

A direct finish was done by Paul Hoskins at about 25. The name was a tribute to Moira who had her leg broken in an accident on Crookneck.

FA: Michael Woodrow & Jonathan Dwyer, 1986

22Sport 14m
9 * Raped in a Church

FA: Michael Woodrow & Jonathan Dwyer, 1986

23Trad 11m
10 ** Tode Mode

FA: Roger Bourne, 1985

24Trad 11m
11 ** The New Order

FA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1993

20Sport 11m
12 A Dingo Got My Floater

Contrived.

FA: Roger Bourne, Even Bieske & Andrew Barry, 1984

23Trad 11m
13 Gash Flash (Variant Start)

Contrived.

FA: Roger Bourne, 1984

FA: Solo Roger Bourne, 1984

23Trad 11m
14 * Gash Flash

FA: Andrew Barry, Roger Bourne & Evan Bieske, 1984

17Trad 11m
15 Return of the Mankhouse

FA: Reynold Cope & Paul McAntee, 1986

16Trad 13m
16 Jets Over Jordon

FA: Nick Heywood, 1985

17 RTrad 10m
17 Endoplasmic Exterminator (Variant Start)

FA: Darren Holloway & Jonathon Dwyer, 1985

FA: Darren Holloway & Jonathon Dwyer, 1985

17Trad 20m
18 Endoplasmic Exterminator

Mick Woodrow's first FA... ignominious!

FA: Michael Woodrow & Eddie Irvine, 1984

14 RTrad 20m
19 Garbage

Possibly the worst excuse for a climb at 'Kangaroo Point'. Neil meerly used this climb as an extended test block for his newly purchased hand-drill and etriers. On the same day he had to rescue a lost student who decided to solo up the white choss to get to TAFE.

Start: A few metres left of big white choss pile.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

14 M1 RAid 25m
20 Foreclosure V

FA: Unknown ('s), 1980

24Trad 20m
21 Foreclosure of a Dream

FA: Neil Monteith & Simon Hennig (toprope), 1993

21Trad 20m
22 Forever Gumby

FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 2000

19Trad 18m
23 Miasma

FA: Lee Skidmore, 1999

24Trad 20m
24 GR

FA: Unknown, 2000

18Trad 20m
25 EC

FA: Unknown ('s), 1970

17 RTrad 20m
26 Suicidal Tendency

Not pretty and not popular. Neil's first ever new route.

FA: Neil Monteith & Simon Hennig, 2000

19 RTrad 13m
27 Initial Adustment

Simon and Neil intially adjusted about two tonnes of loose rock off this route before roping up for the first ascent. It was top-roped originally at grade 17, ignored for many years (for good reasons) then Neil came back and aided and drilled his way up for practice one afternoon. The remaining hangerless bolts are questionable!

FA: Neil Monteith (FTRA - Neil Monteith & Simon Hennig -), 1993

14 A2 RAid 15m
28 ** Ode to the Lesser Breasted Droopy Nippled Screeching Wood Duck

FA: Edwardo Irvine & Darren Holloway ('s), 1988

24Sport 16m
29 ** Rear Entry

FA: Andrew Barry & Robbie Allen, 1984

21Sport 20m
30 *** Fowl Deeds in the Chookhouse

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

23 RSport 20m
31 * Wallbanger

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

20Trad 20m
32 Call the Cops

FA: Dave Whitworth & Darrin Carter, 1996

19Sport 15m
33 Trolly's Triumph

FA: Geoff Baker & Michelle Spuler, 1997

16Trad 17m
34 Where's Rocky?

FA: Geoff Baker & Michelle Spuler, 1997

21Trad 17m
35 Oh Mighty Gumby

FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 1997

24Trad 17m
36 Lord Gumby

FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 1997

21Trad 17m
37 Gumby's Demise

FA: Geoff Baker & Steve MacGillivray, 1997

18Trad 17m
38 Bum Full' Pikers V

At the 3rd BR, go right.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

14Trad 16m
39 * A Bum Full of Fists

FA: Evan Bieske, Roger Bourne & Andrew Barry, 1984

16Trad 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
14 Bum Full' Pikers V Trad 16m
Endoplasmic Exterminator Trad 20m
Trash Thrash Trad 14m
14 A2 Initial Adustment Aid 15m
14 M1 Garbage Aid 25m
16 * A Bum Full of Fists Trad 20m
Return of the Mankhouse Trad 13m
Trolly's Triumph Trad 17m
17 EC Trad 20m
Endoplasmic Exterminator (Variant Start) Trad 20m
* Gash Flash Trad 11m
Jets Over Jordon Trad 10m
18 Dazed and Confused Trad 14m
GR Trad 20m
Gumby's Demise Trad 17m
Untitled Route Trad 10m
19 Call the Cops Sport 15m
Forever Gumby Trad 18m
Suicidal Tendency Trad 13m
20 ** The New Order Sport 11m
* Wallbanger Trad 20m
21 Boys, Bolts and Balls Ups Sport 14m
Foreclosure of a Dream Trad 20m
Lord Gumby Trad 17m
** Rear Entry Sport 20m
Where's Rocky? Trad 17m
22 * Spack Attack Sport 14m
23 A Dingo Got My Floater Trad 11m
*** Fowl Deeds in the Chookhouse Sport 20m
Gash Flash (Variant Start) Trad 11m
* Raped in a Church Trad 11m
24 Foreclosure V Trad 20m
International Man of Mystery Trad 11m
Miasma Trad 20m
** Ode to the Lesser Breasted Droopy Nippled Screeching Wood Duck Sport 16m
Oh Mighty Gumby Trad 17m
** Tode Mode Trad 11m
25 Mutant Sea Bass Trad 10m
A1+ Magic Carpet Ride Aid 14m