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Description

The rightmost (southern) section of the main cliff at 'Kangaroo Point'. It extends from the waterfall in the middle of the main cliff to the southern end of the main cliff at the metal stairs. The waterfall actually only flows during torrential rain but its associated creekbed, bridge and vegetation make it an obvious demarcation point.

Climbs are listed from left to right. There are bollards at the top for top rope anchors.

Access issues inherited from Kangaroo Point

The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.

Ethic inherited from Kangaroo Point

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 Waterfall Sport 15m, 5

Start as for 'Frontier Psychiatrist'.

Only if it has been dry for weeks. Up 'Frontier Psychiatrist' for first 3 bolts, putting a long runner (1.5m) on the third. Traverse L over choss, clip FH at start of waterfall bulge and up past another FH to anchor on ledge. Use all your ninja skills retrieving your clips.

FA: Alex Combes, Brendan Fraser, Josh Combes, 2006

2
16 Frontier Psychiatrist Sport 16m, 5

Start at first line of bolts R of waterfall, 5m L of 'Junket'.

Nice crux start then follow line of 5 RBs just L of the tree to DBB. Relatively shady which is great on hot afternoons but then it does take a while to dry out after rain.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2006

3

Traverse. Start at 'Frontier Psychiatrist'.

An alternate start to the 'Eddie Goes to Gay Bars' traverse which adds an extra pitch. Traverse R from 3rd bolt on 'Frontier Psychiatrist' to 3rd bolt on 'Idiot Wind' to join the usual 'Eddie Goes to Gay Bars'.

FA: Mark Gamble, Michael Woodrow, 2006

4

Trad line between 'Frontier Psychiatrist' and 'Junket'? Doesn't look great.

FA: Mark Gamble, Dave Duffy, 2007

5
21 Junket Sport 17m, 5

Start 2m L of 'Pink Berets'.

Up L-trending line of 5 RBs to anchors. Not great rock and pretty dirty.

FA: Rocky

6
21 Violet Berets Sport 15m, 4

Variant finish to 'Pink Berets'. Break left at 3rd bolt, finish at same anchors. Could possibly have another bolt and its own anchors.

FA: Patrick Simon, Andrew Grosser, Fraser Pocknee, Nathaniel Mitchell, 2013

7
21 * Pink Berets Sport 15m, 4

Start 2m L of 'Bouncy Castle'.

Up past 2 FHs to break. Overcome loose section past FH to drillhole overhang and final FH. Interesting crux pulling over this to slab and rap station.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Samantha Coles, 2003

8
23 Bouncy Castle / BC Sport 18m, 4

Start 2m L of 'Pommy Bastard'.

Follow the line of 4 RBs to DBB. The crux is a difficult onsight but much easier on repeat.

FA: Unknown, 1980

9
22 R Busted Xylophone / BX Mixed 18m, 2

Start as for 'Bouncy Castle'.

First 2 bolts of 'Bouncy Castle' then out R to trad crack. Finish at the 'Bouncy Castle' anchor.

FFA: Unknown, 1980

10
20 Pommy Bastard Sport 18m, 5

Start at the "PB" mark.

Ledges and crap rock in parts but still has some nice moves on it. Well protected and pretty easy for the grade. 5 RBs and DBB.

First ascent was done in drizzling rain with a visiting American climber that washed into Mountain Designs when Mick was working there.

FA: Michael Woodrow, visiting female climber...

11
21 R * The Rasp Sport 18m, 4

Start 5m R of 'Pommy Bastard'. Marked "R".

Boulder start ('The Exterminator') to very high BR. Past further 3 BRs and top out.

FA: Mike Johnston, 1984

12
21 R Dolerite Dreaming Mixed 18m, 2

Start 2m R of 'The Rasp'. Marked "DD".

Straight up past 2 BRs then sling the drill hole at 2/3 height and continue left on to the final two carrot bolts on the rasp.

FFA: Gordon Bieske, Richard Marshall, Paul McAntee

13
22 Dare to Dream Sport 18m, 4

Start as for Dolerite Dreaming, clipping two RB's and slinging the drill hole. Continue straight up past two RB's, traverse left under the roof and run it out to the anchor.

Set by Steve Kloske, 2013

FFA: Steve Kloske, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

FA: Steve Kloske, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

14
21 Kass / Kasper Sport 18m, 6

Start 2m L of 'Bombadil'.

First top roped as 'Kasper' in the '70s at grade 16, the passing decades and a passing Bosch have seen it evolve into a grade 21 sport route. 6 RBs, chains.

A DBB at the 4th bolt allows it to be climbed in 2 (admittedly very short) pitches, great for practicing multipitch skills in a safe environment.

FA: John Webb, Rob Brodribb (top rope), 1975

FFA: Steve Kloske, Adam Gibson, 2013

15
17 Bombadil Sport 18m, 5

Start 2m L of 'Tombstone Row'. Marked "B".

A fun, well-protected KP sport route. 5 RBs to DBB.

FFA: Darrin Carter, Chris Poole, Mark Poole, 2002

16
17 SHC Trad 18m

Old trad route starting where 'Bombadil' is now.

FA: Michael Woodrow & Darren Holloway, 1984

17
16 Tombstone Row Sport 18m, 5

Start 5m L of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TR".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. A more direct finish was added when it was retrobolted, increasing the grade from 15 to 16.

FFA: David Reeve, 1968

18
21 ** Idiot Wind DS Sport 18m, 4

Start straight up wall L of usual 'Idiot Wind' line. Rejoins the original at its 2nd bolt.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1983

19
21 * Alien Sex Fiend Sport 18m, 5

Start as for 'Idiot Wind'.

At the 3rd bolt on 'Idiot Wind' head straight up the headwall L of the 'Idiot Wind' flake past 2 BRs. The 2nd is a desperate clip in the Mark Moorhead tradition, involving a thin crimp or a long reach to get to the bolt. Finish at the 'Idiot Wind' DBB.

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Darren Holloway, 1986

20
21 *** Idiot Wind Sport 18m, 5

Start at the "IW' mark.

Quality climbing. The testpiece of its grade at 'Kangaroo Point'. 5 RBs and anchors. This route map shows it dodging around the small roof. I lead it direct, doing the nice balancey move as a part of the * experience, and I think others probably did too. (Michael Woodrow)

FFA: Gordon Bieske, Paul Hoskins, 1984

21

Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.

  1. 20m (17) Up 'Idiot Wind' to 2nd bolt. Traverse R to belay on 'Hanger Wall'.

  2. 15m (20) Traverse R on high line of 'Hanger Wall' to belay on 'Chip-a-Holdaway'.

  3. 15m (12) Across to belay on last bolt of 'Euthanasia'.

FA:

22
22 R * Sounds of Silence Trad 88m

Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.

  1. 21m (17) Up 'Idiot Wind' to roof then traverse R and down to belay below 'Nic Chips Diffs' headwall.

  2. 9m (17) Across 'Exhilarant' to belay on 'Gangbang Wall'.

  3. 11m (20) Across to natural pro belay on 8m high ledge on 'Anonymous'.

  4. 13m (17) To halfway ledge on 'Pterodactyl'.

  5. 14m (22) To 'Moonlight Fantasia' ledge.

  6. 20m (22) Finish up 'Adam's Rib'.

FA: 1983

23
21 * The Stoats Stepped Out Sport 18m, 5

Start 2m R of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TSSO".

Clip the 1st RB on 'Idiot Wind' then head straight up the face past 3 BRs. Finish on a great sequence past a FH to the top. Be careful clipping the 2nd bolt because a groundfall is possible.

FFA: Darren Holloway, Michael Woodrow, 1985

24

Moira and I cleaned up both of the variants and the main route on the same weekend in 1985.

FFA: Mick Woodrow, Moira Blom, 1985

25

Moira and I cleaned up both of the variants and the main route on the same weekend in 1985.

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White, 1969

FFA: Mick Woodrow, Moira Blom, 1985

26
18 Socketh It Unto Me Mixed 18m, 1

Start 2m R of 'The Stoats Stepped Out'. Faintly marked "S".

Layback up corner and reach L to clip BR. Through the crux and finish up the cracked face just L of 'Mission Impossible'. Committing.

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Moira Bloom, 1985

27
17 R Mission Impossible Trad 18m

Start just L of 'Another Girl Another Planet'. Marked "MI".

Straight up cracked corner past deep hole in rock to top. Run out on lead. Soloed on first free ascent.

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White, 1969

FFA: Gordon Bieske, 1985

28
19 * Mission Impossible VF Mixed 18m, 1

Start as for 'Mission Impossible'.

Traverse R at the ledge above the deep hole and finish up slab as for 'Another Girl Another Planet'.

FA: Michael Woodrow, Moira Blom

29
21 R Another Girl Another Planet Sport 18m, 3

Start just R of 'Mission Impossible'. Marked "AGAP".

Up the broken rock to ledge and very high RB. Head L through nice crux sequence up R side of 'Mission Impossible' arete to 2nd RB (don't fall, odds are you'll hit the ledge). Mantle up to slab then edge up past RB shared with '42 Wheels' to top. Seldom repeated on lead.

"Did the first ascent of this when bolting was a very sensitive issue. I had been heavily criticised for bolting 'Hanger Wall Arete' (instead of putting a wire in the crux pocket/crack to protect that move!), particularly by Evan Beiske if memory serves... anyway, AGAP was my response. Please note it was pretty bold as it didn't have a bolt protecting the crux, just a small, thin piton facing downwards! LOL... Evan whimpered on repeat and lowered onto the piton in horror when he couldn't do the move... :-0" (Mick Woodrow)

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Eddie Irvine, 1986

30
24 R * 42 Wheels Sport 18m, 3

Start just R of 'Another Girl Another Planet'. Faintly marked "42W".

Easy start over dodgy rock (watch the wasp nest) to ledge and very high RB. Up face past RB on bulge to slab. Finish up slab past RB shared with 'AGAP' to top.

"After establishing this route and 'PITG', with nights of top rope rehearsal, I saw Paul Hoskins down at Roo Point on a Saturday morning. Puffed my chest out and told Paul about the routes... he repeated both, onsight, with a combined elapsed time of about 45 seconds..." (Mick Woodrow)

Named after a song by Hunters & Collectors.

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Paul Lawrence, 1986

31
24 * Nic Chips Diffs Sport 18m, 6

Start 1m L of 'Dysentery'.

Climb easy wall to very high BR then up sharp arete to 2nd BR under triangular roof. Swing L to huge jug and FH. Then up steep face past BR to slab. Up slab past BR and FH to the DBB shared wth 'Dysentery'. The first 2 RBs on 'Dysentery' can be clipped to protect the start.

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1983

32
19 R ** Dysentery DF Sport 18m, 5

Start as for 'Dysentery'.

A slight variant to 'Dysentery' which makes it a bit harder and more runout. After the 3rd RB head straight up the steeper part of the headwall, skipping the usual 4th RB. Rejoin the original line at its 5th RB. Best done on top rope.

FFA: Rob Whannell, 1985

33

Start at "D" mark.

Up past 3 RBs then steeper moves R past 4th RB. Trend gently L onto slab and up past a RB and a FH to anchor shared with 'Nic Chips Diffs'.

FA: Gordon Bieske, 1984

34
19 * Dysentery RHF Sport 18m, 6

Start as for 'Dysentery', marked "D".

At the 4th RB on 'Dysentery' veer R then up over roof, clipping 2 further RBs. Up slab above to DBB.

FA: Rob Whannell, 1985

35
19 Bubonic Man Mixed 18m, 4

Start 1m R of 'Dysentery'. Marked "BM".

Up past 2 BRs to 'Dysentery RHF' roof. Up over this and up slab to DBB.

FFA: David Whitworth, Michael Long, 1994

36
19 Bridal Party Trad 18m

Start at 'Wedding Crashers'.

Old school climb which traverses L and R to find line of least resistance. Finishes up 'Exhilarant'.

FFA: Rob & Cath Whannell, 1985

37
21 * Wedding Crashers Sport 18m, 5

Start 3m R of 'Dysentery'.

Effectively bolts the way 'Bridal Party' was top roped for a few decades. Up easy slab to ledge and RB. Nice moves up steep face past 2nd RB to jug and 3rd RB. Mantle onto ledge and continue more easily past 2 RBs to DBB.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2006

38
20 Stemming the Void Mixed 18m, 3

Start as for 'Exhilarant'.

Clip the BR in the middle of the steep face on the L part way up 'Exhilarant'. Bridge L to ledges then straight up past 2 further BRs to top out.

FFA: Andrew Smith, 1989

39
17 * Exhilarant Trad 18m

Start up big corner 2m L of 'Hanger Wall Arete'. Marked "Ex".

Up the corner then finish up slab. Upgraded from the original grade of 16 by consensus.

FFA: Rick White, 1969

40
22 * Hanger Wall Arete Sport 18m, 6

Start on arete 1m R of 'Exhilarant', 1m L of 'Gangbang Wall'.

Steep and balancy climbing, 'HWA' takes balance and commitment, while 'GBW' takes crimp strength and brawn. This route is great for climbers who lack the strength to crank through its neighbour, also fun for sandbagging musclebound tough-guys who have no technique.

Up arete clipping 1st 3 FHs shared with 'GBW'. Continue up arete above horizontal seam past further 3 FHs. Finish up easy slab to DBB shared with 'GBW' and 'Hanger Wall', optionally clipping 1 or 2 of the 'HW' BRs.

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Darren Holloway, 1985

41
23 ** Gangbang Wall / GBW Sport 18m, 5

Start 2m R of 'Exhilarant'. Marked "GBW".

Steep cranking on quality sequence (of dubious origin). Up thin slab to L clipping 2 FHs shared with 'Hanger Wall Arete' to 3rd FH at horizontal seam. Head slightly R then straight up headwall past 2 further FHs. Finish up easy slab clipping BRs on 'Hanger Wall' if desired to DBB shared with 'HWA' and 'HW'.

FFA: Andrew Barry, Roger Bourne, 1984

42
23 R * Gangbang Wall DS Sport 18m, 3

Start at 'Gangbang Wall', marked "GBW".

Head straight up the face instead of L, clipping the high FH. Rejoins the original 'GBW' when that line traverses in from the L at the horizontal seam.

FA: Paul Hoskins, 1982

43
23 *** Bitter Gang Bang Sport 18m
44
18 A1 Hanger Wall Aid 18m, 15

Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall'.

A bolt ladder aid climb up a line of about 15 BRs. Paul Hoskins "freed" this with the use of a bolted on street sign at grade 25. The last problem at 'KP' waiting to be truly freed.

FA: Ted Cais, 1968

45
24 ** Brisbane Bitter VS Sport 18m, 6

Start at 'Hanger Wall', 1m L of usual 'Brisbane Bitter' start.

Climb past first 5 BRs on 'Hanger Wall' clipping 2 or 3, then join the usual 'Brisbane Bitter' line at its 2nd RB.

46
24 *** Brisbane Bitter Sport 18m, 5

Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall', 2m L of 'XXXX'. Marked "BB".

Boulder start to RB then up nice seam past 4 more RBs to anchors. Hard finish.

FFA: Paul Hoskins, 1983

47
25 R ** XXXX Sport 18m, 4

Start 2m R of 'Brisbane Bitter', 1m L of 'Chip-a-Holdaway'. Marked "FX".

Solo up drillhole to very high RB. Up face past FH and RB, then pass the dyno crux to clip the final RB. Slightly R to DBB shared with 'Chip-a-Holdaway'.

FFA: Chris Frost, 1985

48
25 * Chippers-XXXX Link Sport 18m, 6

Linkup. Avoids solo start to 'XXXX'. Climb to 2nd bolt on 'Chip-a-Holdaway' then step L to original 'XXXX' line.

FA: Alex Combes

49

Start 1m L of 'Anonymous'. Marked "CH".

Fantastic. Boulder start to ledge then up daunting wall on holds that just happen to be right where they're needed. 6 FHs then slightly L to anchors shared with 'XXXX'.

FFA: Andrew Horchner, Steven McMillan, 1998

50
14 Anonymous Trad 20m

Start 1m R of 'Chip-A-Holdaway'. Marked "A".

The original trad route. Up obvious corner, then on up ledges to corner finish. Average protection can now be supplemented with the RBs on 'Anonymous DS' making it a good beginner trad lead.

FFA: David Reeve, 1968

51
16 Anonymous DS Sport 18m, 6

Start on blank wall 1m R of 'Anonymous'.

Retrobolted version of the original 'Anonymous' with a more direct start. Balancy climbing up wall past 2 RBs. Then on up corners and ledges finishing either up corner on R or straight up thin moves on face for more of a challenge. 6 RBs and DBB.

52
19 Anonymous Arete Trad 18m

Start 2m R of 'Anonymous', 1m R of 'Anonymous DS'.

Up shallow corner, then sharp arete, then ledges to top.

FFA: Saul Squires, David Whitworth, 1992

53
16 Bloody Oath Arete Trad 18m

FA: Unknown, 2000

54
16 Bloody Oath Trad 18m

Start 2m L of 'Stoat Clips Bolts'. Marked "BO".

FFA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

55
16 Bloody Oath RHV Trad 18m

FA: Unknown, 2000

56
18 Stoat Clips Bolts Sport 18m, 6

Start 2m L of 'PITG'. Marked "SCB".

Follow the zigzag line of 6 RBs to DBB. There's a 7th RB above the anchor if you want to continue up the last section and top out instead.

FFA: Gordon Bieske, Rob Whannell, 1985

57
24 ** Punks in the Gin Sport 17m, 5

Start 4m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "PITG".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors.

FFA: Mick Woodrow, Paul Lawrence, 1985

58
21 R ** Euthanasia Sport 17m, 3

Start 3m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "E".

Up past 3 BRs then R to the 'Pterodactyl' DBB. Run out.

FA: Greg Sheard, Denis Stocks, 1969

FFA: Paul Hoskins, Dave Moss, 1982

59
22 R Euthanasia V Sport 17m, 2

Start 1m R of usual 'Euthanasia' start.

WARNING: potential for a big groundfall before reaching the 2nd bolt. Straight up to roof, reach left and clip 1st BR on 'Euthanasia'. Then over roof and on to arete. Rejoin 'Euthanasia' at its 3rd BR.

FFA: Unknown, 1980

60
17 Pterodactyl D Sport 17m, 4

Start 2m L of usual 'Pterodactyl' start. Marked "PTD".

Up arete and cracked corner to very high RB, then join 'Pterodactyl' at its 3rd RB.

FFA: Rick White, 1969

61
18 Pterodactyl Sport 17m, 5

Start at big "PT" mark.

Nice climbing up past 5 RBs then run it out a bit up easy slab to anchors.

FA: Ted Cais, David Reeve, 1969

FFA: Mick Woodrow, Darren Holloway, 1985

62
20 R Heap of Shit Trad 17m

A different start to 'Pterodactyl', starting 1m R.

Only minimally different to the standard 'Pterodactyl' and traverses L to join the usual route at halfway.

"I only got interested in leading the FFA of this route because it makes me the only person I know who can claim to have freed a Hot Henry Barber top-rope problem!" (Mick Woodrow)

FA: 'Hot' Henry Barber, 1975

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Darren Holloway, 1985

63
24 * Honed And Buffed Sport 17m, 4

Start 1m L of 'Wages Of Fear'. Marked "HBu".

Up crap rock at start to high RB. Run it out to 2nd RB, then up slab past 2 further RBs to anchor. Crap start, nice middle and finish. Quite runout using just bolts but has good placements for wires.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

64
25 Dextral Chirality Sport 23m, 6

Linkup. Up 'Honed and Buffed' to the first bolt, tricky crimp traverse to the 2nd bolt on 'Wages Of Fear'. Then crap yourself over to the 2nd bolt on 'Cucumber Castle'. Keep traversing over to the bolt at the bulge of 'Be A Robot For Jesus' then pull the bulge crux and finish up 'BARFJ'. Pretty fun.

FA: Adam Palmer, 2008

65
24 Cubans For All Sport 18m, 4

Variant finish to 'Honed And Buffed'. Climb usual route to third bolt. Then head up and right, clipping either the 3rd bolt of 'HAB' or the 4th of 'Wages Of Fear', or placing a cam in the break. Clip the last bolt of 'Close But No Cigar' and head straight up to the 'WOF' anchors.

FFA: Jay MacGechan, 2013

66
24 Close But No Cigar Sport 18m, 5

Variant finish to 'Wages Of Fear'. Climb usual route until 4th RB at break. From here head up and left past 1 RB, finishing at 'Honed And Buffed' anchors.

Sustained crimping until final awkward move. It's possible to go straight up and then do an awkward traverse but not as nice.

FFA: Matt Hunter, 2013

67
24 *** Wages Of Fear Sport 18m, 5

Start 3m L of 'Cucumber Castle'. Marked "WF".

A 'KP' classic! Straight up line of 5 RBs to anchors. First RB is high but a bit easier to get to than the first on 'Cucumber Castle'.

FA: John Pickard, 1968

FFA: Roger Bourne, 1984

68
24 * Cucumber Of Fear Sport 20m

Linkup. First part 'Cucumber Castle', second part 'Wages Of Fear'.

69
23 *** Cucumber Castle Sport 18m, 4

Start 2m L of 'BARFJ'. Marked "CC".

Classic climb but potential for big falls so make sure you're solid at the grade if leading. Hard start to small ledge and high FH. Follow obvious line past 2nd & 3rd FHs. Above 3rd FH place cam in crack or run it out to 4th FH. Finish at DBB.

FA: Rob Staszewski, 1974

FFA: Andrew Barry, Paul Hoskins, 1984

70

Linkup. Up 'Cucumber Castle' to break, finish up last bit of 'BARFJ'.

71

Start at large "BARFJ" mark.

Very sustained. Up smooth face to high RB. Continue past further 4 RBs and slightly R to anchor.

Dropped from grade 26 to 25 when a hold was "enhanced" in July 2006.

FFA: Andrew Barry, 1984

72
19 ** Moonlight Fantasia Mixed 18m, 1

Start 1m R of 'BARFJ'. Marked "MF".

One of the few good natural lines at 'KP'. It is a shame that the upper layback crack was halved when the council decided to renovate in the mid 1990s by dynamiting it off! Neil Monteith added the new bolted finish when the dust settled.

Up pockets to small roof, then up layback crack on L to halfway ledge. Straight up past RB to crack. Either top out or use BARFJ anchors just L.

FA: Paul Caffyn, Rick White, 1968

FA: Neil Monteith, 1995

73

Start as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

At small roof, head straight up face to halfway ledge avoiding layback crack on L. From ledge finish as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

FA: Roger Bourne, Rick White, 1979

74

Start as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

From halfway ledge climb crack 2m R to top.

FA: BIll Cotman, Tony Zuino, 1996

75

Linkup. Very, very nice. Up 'Bufo Marinus' to the bolt. Traverse L across 'Moonlight Fantasia' (place cam under block), then over to 1st bolt of 'Be A Robot For Jesus'. Do BARFJ's crux, then clip 2nd bolt on 'Cucumber Castle'. Traverse L across to 3rd bolt on 'Wages Of Fear' and do its crux. Traverse L across blankish wall to 'Honed And Buffed' and clip last 3 bolts of this route to anchors.

FA: Glen Foley, Adam Palmer

76

Start as for 'Bufo Marinus' but continue up to the L of the small ledge with anchors, finishing at the 'Moonlight Fantasia' ledge instead.

FA: Chris Frost, 1984

77
25 ** Bufo Marinus Sport 5m, 1

Start on blank wall 2m R of 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

Crimp up past FH and on to small ledge with anchors.

FA: Roger Bourne, 1984

78
10 Traverse To Bufo Trad 7m

Start at 'By Ignorance'.

Not really a traverse but an easy L-tending scramble up to the 'Bufo Marinus' anchors. Often soloed to set up a top rope on 'Bufo Marinus'.

79
13 By Ignorance Trad 18m

Start 1m R from the 'Bufo Marinus' arete. Marked "BI".

Up to halfway ledge at base of slab. Up slab to layback crack, then up this, R around bulge and top out.

FFA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

80

Start as for 'By Ignorance'.

At the halfway ledge, traverse R 2m and climb up the middle of the slab to the top. No protection.

FFA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

81
17 R By Ignorance RHV Trad 18m

Start 2m R of the usual 'By Ignorance' start.

Straight up drill hole to halfway ledge, then up the corner at the R edge of the slab. Very bold.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1982

The vegetation at the top of the cliff is too thick to allow foot access for top roping from 'Ground Point Zero' until the 'Piles' area.

82
25 * Ground Point Zero Sport 18m, 3

Start as for 'Squawk', 2m L of 'Gobble'. Marked "SQ".

Climb up 'Squawk' until reaching the 2nd BR. From here go L up the improbable-looking face clipping the 3rd BR on the way to the top. Crimpy.

FA: Richard Henderson, 1987

83
22 Squawk Sport 18m, 3

Start 2m L of 'Gobble'. Marked "SQ".

Sparsely bolted and therefore less often climbed than it would otherwise be. Up past high BR to 2nd BR at start of headwall. Climb headwall clipping 3rd BR to ledge. Climb the arete on the R to the top.

FA: Tony Young, 1983

84
22 * Gobble Sport 18m, 5

Start 3m L of 'Adam's Rib'. Marked "G".

Justifiably popular. Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchor shared with 'The Bolting Gestapo'.

FA: Paul Hoskins, 1983

85
19 * The Bolting Gestapo Sport 18m, 5

Start 2m L of 'Adam's Rib', 1m R of 'Gobble'.

Nice. Climb up clipping 2 RBs, then 2 FHs, then 1 more RB, then the anchor shared with 'Gobble'. Crux is mantling the bulge at the 3rd bolt.

FA: Ross Ferguson

86

Start as for 'Adam's Rib'.

From the large ledge two-thirds of the way up, climb up the corner instead of the arete.

FA: Chris Ahern, 1993

87
14 Adam's Rib Trad 17m

Start at the massive "AR" mark.

Climb up the corner and face then on up to the large ledge with the corner two-thirds of the way up. From here climb the arete on the R to the top.

FA: Rick White, Ted Cais, 1968

88

Start 1m R of the usual 'Adam's Rib' start.

Climb up the slippery face to join 'Adam's Rib' at the corner.

FA: Richard Henderson, 1985

89
24 * Dollarman Trad 17m

Start 2m R of 'Adam's Rib', where the "$♂" (dollar-man, get it?!) is painted about 4m off the ground.

Up the hard slots (wires) then finish up the 'Adam's Rib' arete.

FA: Unknown, 1980

90
24 Pig City Sport 17m, 3

Start 1m R of 'Dollarman'. Has the piranha at half height.

Hard start past the 1st FH to the slot that forms the piranha's mouth. Clip the 2nd FH. From here the original route tended L to continue up the 'Adam's Rib' arete but the 3rd bolt on 'Pocket Calculator' now leads you R and up to their shared DBB. 3 FHs.

FA: Roger Bourne, 1984

91

Traverse. Start up 'Pocket Calculator' to 3rd bolt, then step left for 365m to finish up at 'The Olos Slab'. A fun day out, but really why would you unless you have a lot of time on your hands?

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2009

92

Start 2m R of 'Pig City'.

Follow the line of 3 left-trending FHs. The crux is mounting the bulge. Shares 3rd FH & chains with 'Pig City'.

FA: Andrew Mason, 1980

93

Up to 1st FH, then out right over blocks to ledge & 2nd FH. Delicate move into corner & 3rd FH. Hard moves up to crack and jugs, then easy to top.

94

Up to 1st FH, then out right over blocks to ledge & 2nd FH. Out right & up to 2nd big ledge above 3rd FH, up corner to chains.

95
8 Crud Corner Trad 15m

Start 3m L of 'Bird Dance For Shiva'.

Up the ledges then the loose corner to top.

FA: Peter Barnes, 1950

96
15 Wrinkled Welsh Weenies Mixed 13m, 1

Start 2m L of 'Bird Dance For Shiva'.

Up the ledges, traverse R and finish up the slab clipping the BR. Much harder than its official grade of 15.

FA: Mick Woodrow, 1985

97
23 R Bird Dance For Shiva Sport 13m, 1

Start 2m L of 'Steaming Wally'. Marked "BDS".

Climb to slab and onward past the single BR to the top. Shiva is the goddess of death and the bird dance refers to an attempt to fly... the FFA hit the ground and was almost killed on this climb.

FA: Michael Woodrow, 1986

98
23 Amnesia Trad 13m

Climb 'Bird Dance For Shiva' to halfway. Swing R into blank corner with crack. Up crack past PR. Finish R at 'Steaming Wally' chains.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Erik Smits, 2002

99
26 * Steaming Wally Sport 13m, 3

Start 2m L of 'Gigolo'.

One of the hardest climbs at KP, though it's very cruxy. Follow the line of 3 RBs up the blunt arete to the ledge and anchors.

FA: Paul Hoskins, 1985

100
17 R Gigolo Mixed 13m, 2

Start about 15m or so L of 'Mantlit', 1m L of a yellow fire hydrant marker against the cliff. Marked "G".

More of a very runout sport climb than a trad route, given there's nowhere to place gear. Climb the series of overhangs clipping as many of the 'Nic Pic Dics' BRs as you can (the first 2 at the very least). Hard & sustained for the grade.

FA: Evan Bieske, Roger Bourne, 1985

101
23 Nic Pic Dics Sport 13m, 5

Start at 'Gigolo'. Marked "G".

Up the face just R of the 'Gigolo' overhangs, avoiding its holds. Follows the line of 5 BRs that replaced the original aid bolts. At top head slightly R to the anchors.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collet, 1969

FFA: Andrew Barry, 1985

102

Start just R of 'Gigolo' / 'Nic Pic Dics'.

Follow line of 3 BRs up R side of thin slab to anchor shared with 'Nic Pic Dics'.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2003

103

The original trad line heads R after 1st bolt, finishing up arête & corner.

FA: Mick Woodrow, Moria Blom, 1985

104
14 JAFKPR Sport 13m, 4

Start 3m R of 'Gigolo'.

Decent beginner climb, safely bolted. 4 RBs to chains.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Paul Pagoldh, 2013

105
5 Breakout Trad 14m

Start 2m L of 'Stonehinge'. Marked "BO".

Hard for the grade.

FA: Lesa & Col Smithies, 1986

106
10 Stonehinge Sport 12m, 3

Start 1m L of 'Diagonal'. Marked "SH".

Now retrobolted as an easy beginner's lead. First bolt is easy to reach but high and move near the top is hard for the grade so more a lead for competent climbers learning to lead rather than outright beginners. 3 RBs to DBB.

FA: Col Smithies, Malcolm Argent, 1986

FFA: David & Ruth Reeve, Vincent Geisler, 2012

107
3 Diagonal Trad 17m

Start 5m L of 'Mantlit'. Marked "D".

FA: Shane Smithies, 1986

108
10 Slippery Dip Trad 14m

FA: Rick White (solo), 1968

109
5 Baby Steps Sport 7m, 3

Start 2m L of 'Mantlit'.

Mini sport lead, perfect for first time leaders. 3 RBs & DBB.

FA: David Reeve, 2012

110
13 Mantlit Sport 10m, 4

Start behind jacaranda tree, 2m L of 'Play School'.

Great beginner lead. Up series of ledges past 4 BRs to chains shared with 'Play School'.

FA: Malcolm Argent, Col Smithies, 2000

111
11 Play School Sport 10m, 3

Start behind jacaranda tree, 3m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. Marked "COD" (for 'Cloak Of Darkness').

Up ramp to high FH. Move on past 2 more FHs and run it out a little up to the chains shared with 'Mantlit'.

FA: Claudia Ferguson, Suzy Goldner, Ross Ferguson

112
12 Terrorsaurus Trad 14m

Contrived.

FA: Malcolm Argent, Col Smithies, 1988

113
13 Cloak Of Darkness Trad 14m

Start behind jacaranda tree, 3m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. Marked "COD".

Up just R of bolts on 'Play School' and top out.

FA: Malcolm Argent, Col Smithies, 1988

114
6 Offal Sport 14m, 5

Start 1m R of 'Play School', 1m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'.

Retrobolted so now a nice easy beginner lead. 5 RBs to DBB.

FA: Col & Shane Smithies, 1986

115
16 Moonlight Dilemma Sport 15m, 5

Start behind jacaranda tree about 15m L of 'Arete', and 2m right of Offal. Marked "MD".

Climbs better than it looks. Up twin choss cracks clipping bolts to the left. Head left at the ledge, and up balancy wall to chossy, crux rooflet. Breach the rooflet to the left, clip the last bolt on 'Offal' and finish at chains shared with 'Offal'.

FA Unknown, original line unknown

Set by Dave and Ruth Reeve, 2013

116
14 Spooge In A Glove Sport 15m, 4

Chossy corner 1 m R of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. 4 RBs, anchors shared with 'Hanging Garden'.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Paul Pagoldh, 2014

117
12 Hanging Garden Sport 15m, 3

Start 2 m R of 'Spooge In A Glove'. Climbs the L trending ramp to anchor shared with 'Spooge in a Glove'. 3 RBs.

FFA: Paul Pagoldh, Steve Kloske, 2014

118
18 * Dodgy Dub Sport 15m, 3

Climbs the blank face and arete 1 m R of 'Hanging Garden'. 3 RBs and anchors.

FFA: Steve Kloske, 2014

119
16 Humungousaur Mixed 14m, 3

Start 1m L of 'Spidermonkey'.

Up onto the ledge and clip the RB. Climb the nice finger crack to the start of the slab at halfway. Up the slab clipping 2 RBs and finish at the DBB.

FA: Proude Hawkins, 2012

120
8 Spidermonkey Sport 15m, 8

Start on the slab 5m L of 'Arete'.

Follow the line of 8 RBs to the DBB. An excellent beginner sport lead with easy but fun climbing and plenty of bolts to get those clips dialled.

FA: Proude Hawkins, 2012

121

Start at 'Spidermonkey'.

Nice beginner trad lead with good pro following the crack just R of 'Spidermonkey'. Finish at the 'Spidermonkey' DBB.

FA: Proude Hawkins, 2012

122
12 Arete Trad 13m

Start at the arete about 10m L of 'Piles'. Marked "A".

Fun easy trad route. Up onto ledge with the big manky crambling crack. Head out right and up for a few fun moves over crappy gear around the 'roof' thing. Head right to belay off the fence near the top of the stairs. You could also do a dodgy traverse carefully to the anchor on 'White Dopes On Punk'.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

123
21 White Dopes On Punk Sport 13m, 3

Start on pinned face about 10m L of 'Piles' and 1m R of 'Arete'.

A much nicer climb than it looks at first glance. Dyno start to hold and first FH. Up obvious line past 2 more FHs. Break R onto ledge and anchor.

Named after the 1975 hit single from rock band The Tubes.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

124
12 Hernia Trad 10m

Direct start to 'Cox's Corner' up the overhung layback. The pins give good fixed protection.

FFA: Robert Rankin, 1972

125
8 Cox's Corner Trad 10m

Start in corner 3m L of 'Pseudo-Cox'. Faintly marked "CC".

Climb awful face past a number of pins. From here the climb originally traversed L to corner and tree then upward to more wire netting. Now the tree has grown so large you'd be doing well to make it that far. Probably not worth the effort.

FA: Unknown, 1960

126
11 Pseudo-Cox Trad 10m

Start 2m L of 'Cox's Overhang'. Marked "PsC".

Up to ledge, traverse right and up corner to wire netting.

FA: Unknown, 1960

127
18 Finger Pop Trad 6m

Chipped boulder start to 'Cox's Overhang', 1m L of usual start.

FA: Robert Rankin, 1975

FFA: Andrew Barry, 1982

128
17 R Cox's Overhang Trad 17m

Start 2m L of 'Piles'. Marked "CO".

Follow shallow corner to under overhang, slinging the pin on the way. Place some gear then climb the overhang on its R side. Solo up the slabby arete to top.

FA: Ron Cox, 1959

FFA: Ted Cais, 1968

129
14 Cox's Diagonal Trad 8m

Start 2m L of 'Piles', right near 'Cox's Overhang'. Marked "CD".

Contrived traversing.

FA: Unknown, 1960

130
22 ** Piles Sport 17m, 6

Start at the first obvious cliff face at the rightmost (southern or Southbank) end of the main cliffs, behind the "Danger" sign. Marked "P".

Balancy and intense slab climbing. Climb R then L up vertical face past 2 RBs. Crimpy moves past 3rd RB lead to a jug and the halfway ledge. From ledge follow 3 RBs up thin slab to top. Railings at top provide easy anchors to rap or belay from. 6 RBs.

FFA: Paul Hoskins, 1983

131
13 R * Cox's Edge Trad 16m

Start 2m R of 'Piles'. Marked "CE".

Up slabby arete. Minimal protection.

FA: Unknown, 1960

132
16 Short Wall Sport 10m, 2

Start on the short but surprisingly nice face buried in the jungle about 10m R of 'Piles'. Marked "SW".

Climb past 2 BRs and top out. Railings at the top provide easy anchors to rap or belay from, though it's pretty vegetated at the top too.

FA: Ron Masters, 1977

FFA: Neil Monteith, 1984

133
16 Short Wall RHV Sport 10m, 2

As for 'Short Wall' but climb down and R from the last BR, then up the small chossy corner to top out.

FA: Evan Bieske, 1981

134

Seems to have become lost in the jungle to the R of 'Short Wall'. Supposedly marked "AC".

FA: John Jones, Mick Woodrow, 1984