Right Main Wall Rock climbing134 routes in cliff
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The rightmost (southern) section of the main cliff at 'Kangaroo Point'. It extends from the waterfall in the middle of the main cliff to the southern end of the main cliff at the metal stairs. The waterfall actually only flows during torrential rain but its associated creekbed, bridge and vegetation make it an obvious demarcation point.
Climbs are listed from left to right. There are bollards at the top for top rope anchors.
Access issues inherited from Kangaroo Point
The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.
Ethic inherited from Kangaroo Point
Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:
- Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
- Don't ever chip holds.
- Don't paint on any new initials.
- Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Start 2m L of 'Pink Berets'.
Up L-trending line of 5 RBs to anchors. Not great rock and pretty dirty.
Variant finish to 'Pink Berets'. Break left at 3rd bolt, finish at same anchors. Could possibly have another bolt and its own anchors.
FA: Patrick Simon, Andrew Grosser, Fraser Pocknee & Nathaniel Mitchell, 2013
Start 2m L of 'Bouncy Castle'.
Up past 2 FHs to break. Overcome loose section past FH to drillhole overhang and final FH. Interesting crux pulling over this to slab and rap station.
FA: Lee Skidmore & Samantha Coles, 2003
Lightbox 45 - Bouncy Castle
Start 2m L of 'Pommy Bastard'.
Follow the line of 4 RBs to DBB. The crux is a difficult onsight but much easier on repeat.
FA: Unknown, 1980
Start at the "PB" mark.
Ledges and crap rock in parts but still has some nice moves on it. Well protected and pretty easy for the grade. 5 RBs and DBB.
First ascent was done in drizzling rain with a visiting American climber that washed into Mountain Designs when Mick was working there.
FA: Michael Woodrow & visiting female climber...
Start as for 'Dolerite Dreaming'.
Essentially a rebolt of 'Dolerite Dreaming', maybe with a more direct finish. Up past two RBs and sling the drill hole. Continue straight up past two more RBs, traverse L under the roof and run it out to the anchor.
Set by Steve Kloske, 2013
FFA: Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, 2013
Lightbox 46 - Kass
Start 2m L of 'Bombadil'.
First top roped as 'Kasper' in the '70s at grade 16, the passing decades and a passing Bosch have seen it evolve into a grade 21 sport route. 6 RBs, chains.
A DBB at the 4th bolt allows it to be climbed in 2 (admittedly very short) pitches, great for practicing multipitch skills in a safe environment.
FA: John Webb & Rob Brodribb (top rope), 1975
FFA: Steve Kloske & Adam Gibson, 2013