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Table of contents

1. Right Main Wall 135 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 153.033384, -27.480200

Description:

The rightmost (southern) section of the main cliff at 'Kangaroo Point'. It extends from the waterfall in the middle of the main cliff to the southern end of the main cliff at the metal stairs. The waterfall actually only flows during torrential rain but its associated creekbed, bridge and vegetation make it an obvious demarcation point.

Climbs are listed from left to right. There are bollards at the top for top rope anchors.

Access Issues: inherited from Kangaroo Point

The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.

Ethic: inherited from Kangaroo Point

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Waterfall

Start as for 'Frontier Psychiatrist'.

Only if it has been dry for weeks. Up 'Frontier Psychiatrist' for first 3 bolts, putting a long runner (1.5m) on the third. Traverse L over choss, clip FH at start of waterfall bulge and up past another FH to anchor on ledge. Use all your ninja skills retrieving your clips.

FA: Alex Combes, Brendan Fraser, Josh Combes, 2006

22Sport 15m, 5
2 Frontier Psychiatrist

Start at first line of bolts R of waterfall, 5m L of 'Junket'.

Nice crux start then follow line of 5 RBs just L of the tree to DBB. Relatively shady which is great on hot afternoons but then it does take a while to dry out after rain.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2006

16Sport 16m, 5
3 Eddie Goes to Gay Bars P1

Traverse. Start at 'Frontier Psychiatrist'.

An alternate start to the 'Eddie Goes to Gay Bars' traverse which adds an extra pitch. Traverse R from 3rd bolt on 'Frontier Psychiatrist' to 3rd bolt on 'Idiot Wind' to join the usual 'Eddie Goes to Gay Bars'.

FA: Mark Gamble, Michael Woodrow, 2006

17Trad 35m
4 Initial Public Offering

Trad line between 'Frontier Psychiatrist' and 'Junket'? Doesn't look great.

FA: Mark Gamble, Dave Duffy, 2007

12Trad 22m
5 Junket

Start 2m L of 'Pink Berets'.

Up L-trending line of 5 RBs to anchors. Not great rock and pretty dirty.

FA: Rocky

21Sport 17m, 5
6 Violet Berets

Variant finish to 'Pink Berets'. Break left at 3rd bolt, finish at same anchors. Could possibly have another bolt and its own anchors.

FA: Patrick Simon, Andrew Grosser, Fraser Pocknee, Nathaniel Mitchell, 2013

21Sport 15m, 4
7 * Pink Berets

Start 2m L of 'Bouncy Castle'.

Up past 2 FHs to break. Overcome loose section past FH to drillhole overhang and final FH. Interesting crux pulling over this to slab and rap station.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Samantha Coles, 2003

21Sport 15m, 4
8 Bouncy Castle / BC

Start 2m L of 'Pommy Bastard'.

Follow the line of 4 RBs to DBB. The crux is a difficult onsight but much easier on repeat.

FA: Unknown, 1980

23Sport 18m, 4
9 Busted Xylophone / BX

Start as for 'Bouncy Castle'.

First 2 bolts of 'Bouncy Castle' then out R to trad crack. Finish at the 'Bouncy Castle' anchor.

FFA: Unknown, 1980

22 RMixed 18m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 Pommy Bastard

Start at the "PB" mark.

Ledges and crap rock in parts but still has some nice moves on it. Well protected and pretty easy for the grade. 5 RBs and DBB.

First ascent was done in drizzling rain with a visiting American climber that washed into Mountain Designs when Mick was working there.

FA: Michael Woodrow, visiting female climber...

20Sport 18m, 5
11 * The Rasp

Start 5m R of 'Pommy Bastard'. Marked "R".

Boulder start ('The Exterminator') to very high BR. Past further 3 BRs and top out.

FA: Mike Johnston, 1984

21 RSport 18m, 4
12 Dolerite Dreaming

Start 2m R of 'The Rasp'. Marked "DD".

Straight up past 2 BRs then sling the drill hole at 2/3 height and continue left on to the final two carrot bolts on the rasp.

FFA: Gordon Bieske, Richard Marshall, Paul McAntee

21 RMixed 18m, 2
13 Dare to Dream

Start as for Dolerite Dreaming, clipping two RB's and slinging the drill hole. Continue straight up past two RB's, traverse left under the roof and run it out to the anchor.

Set by Steve Kloske, 2013

FFA: Steve Kloske, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

FA: Steve Kloske, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

22Sport 18m, 4
14 Kass / Kasper

Start 2m L of 'Bombadil'.

First top roped as 'Kasper' in the '70s at grade 16, the passing decades and a passing Bosch have seen it evolve into a grade 21 sport route. 6 RBs, chains.

A DBB at the 4th bolt allows it to be climbed in 2 (admittedly very short) pitches, great for practicing multipitch skills in a safe environment.

FA: John Webb, Rob Brodribb (top rope), 1975

FFA: Steve Kloske, Adam Gibson, 2013

21Sport 18m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 Bombadil

Start 2m L of 'Tombstone Row'. Marked "B".

A fun, well-protected KP sport route. 5 RBs to DBB.

FFA: Darrin Carter, Chris Poole, Mark Poole, 2002

17Sport 18m, 5
16 SHC

Old trad route starting where 'Bombadil' is now.

FA: Michael Woodrow & Darren Holloway, 1984

17Trad 18m
17 Tombstone Row

Start 5m L of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TR".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. A more direct finish was added when it was retrobolted, increasing the grade from 15 to 16.

FFA: David Reeve, 1968

16Sport 18m, 5
18 ** Idiot Wind DS

Start straight up wall L of usual 'Idiot Wind' line. Rejoins the original at its 2nd bolt.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1983

21Sport 18m, 4
19 * Alien Sex Fiend

Start as for 'Idiot Wind'.

At the 3rd bolt on 'Idiot Wind' head straight up the headwall L of the 'Idiot Wind' flake past 2 BRs. The 2nd is a desperate clip in the Mark Moorhead tradition, involving a thin crimp or a long reach to get to the bolt. Finish at the 'Idiot Wind' DBB.

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Darren Holloway, 1986

21Sport 18m, 5
20 *** Idiot Wind

Start at the "IW' mark.

Quality climbing. The testpiece of its grade at 'Kangaroo Point'. 5 RBs and anchors. This route map shows it dodging around the small roof. I lead it direct, doing the nice balancey move as a part of the * experience, and I think others probably did too. (Michael Woodrow)

FFA: Gordon Bieske, Paul Hoskins, 1984

21Sport 18m, 5
21 * Eddie Goes to Gay Bars

Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.

  1. 20m (17) Up 'Idiot Wind' to 2nd bolt. Traverse R to belay on 'Hanger Wall'.

  2. 15m (20) Traverse R on high line of 'Hanger Wall' to belay on 'Chip-a-Holdaway'.

  3. 15m (12) Across to belay on last bolt of 'Euthanasia'.

FA:

20 RTrad 50m
22 * Sounds of Silence

Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.

  1. 21m (17) Up 'Idiot Wind' to roof then traverse R and down to belay below 'Nic Chips Diffs' headwall.

  2. 9m (17) Across 'Exhilarant' to belay on 'Gangbang Wall'.

  3. 11m (20) Across to natural pro belay on 8m high ledge on 'Anonymous'.

  4. 13m (17) To halfway ledge on 'Pterodactyl'.

  5. 14m (22) To 'Moonlight Fantasia' ledge.

  6. 20m (22) Finish up 'Adam's Rib'.

FA: 1983

22 RTrad 88m
23 * The Stoats Stepped Out

Start 2m R of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TSSO".

Clip the 1st RB on 'Idiot Wind' then head straight up the face past 3 BRs. Finish on a great sequence past a FH to the top. Be careful clipping the 2nd bolt because a groundfall is possible.

FFA: Darren Holloway, Michael Woodrow, 1985

21Sport 18m, 5
24 Socketh It Unto Me V

Moira and I cleaned up both of the variants and the main route on the same weekend in 1985.

FFA: Mick Woodrow, Moira Blom, 1985

18Trad 18m
25 Socketh It Unto Me VF

Moira and I cleaned up both of the variants and the main route on the same weekend in 1985.

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White, 1969

FFA: Mick Woodrow, Moira Blom, 1985

19Trad 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
26 Socketh It Unto Me

Start 2m R of 'The Stoats Stepped Out'. Faintly marked "S".

Layback up corner and reach L to clip BR. Through the crux and finish up the cracked face just L of 'Mission Impossible'. Committing.

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Moira Bloom, 1985

18Mixed 18m, 1
27 Mission Impossible

Start just L of 'Another Girl Another Planet'. Marked "MI".

Straight up cracked corner past deep hole in rock to top. Run out on lead. Soloed on first free ascent.

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White, 1969

FFA: Gordon Bieske, 1985

17 RTrad 18m
28 * Mission Impossible VF

Start as for 'Mission Impossible'.

Traverse R at the ledge above the deep hole and finish up slab as for 'Another Girl Another Planet'.

FA: Michael Woodrow, Moira Blom

19Mixed 18m, 1
29 Another Girl Another Planet

Start just R of 'Mission Impossible'. Marked "AGAP".

Up the broken rock to ledge and very high RB. Head L through nice crux sequence up R side of 'Mission Impossible' arete to 2nd RB (don't fall, odds are you'll hit the ledge). Mantle up to slab then edge up past RB shared with '42 Wheels' to top. Seldom repeated on lead.

"Did the first ascent of this when bolting was a very sensitive issue. I had been heavily criticised for bolting 'Hanger Wall Arete' (instead of putting a wire in the crux pocket/crack to protect that move!), particularly by Evan Beiske if memory serves... anyway, AGAP was my response. Please note it was pretty bold as it didn't have a bolt protecting the crux, just a small, thin piton facing downwards! LOL... Evan whimpered on repeat and lowered onto the piton in horror when he couldn't do the move... :-0" (Mick Woodrow)

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Eddie Irvine, 1986

21 RSport 18m, 3
30 * 42 Wheels

Start just R of 'Another Girl Another Planet'. Faintly marked "42W".

Easy start over dodgy rock (watch the wasp nest) to ledge and very high RB. Up face past RB on bulge to slab. Finish up slab past RB shared with 'AGAP' to top.

"After establishing this route and 'PITG', with nights of top rope rehearsal, I saw Paul Hoskins down at Roo Point on a Saturday morning. Puffed my chest out and told Paul about the routes... he repeated both, onsight, with a combined elapsed time of about 45 seconds..." (Mick Woodrow)

Named after a song by Hunters & Collectors.

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Paul Lawrence, 1986

24 RSport 18m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
31 * Nic Chips Diffs

Start 1m L of 'Dysentery'.

Climb easy wall to very high BR then up sharp arete to 2nd BR under triangular roof. Swing L to huge jug and FH. Then up steep face past BR to slab. Up slab past BR and FH to the DBB shared wth 'Dysentery'. The first 2 RBs on 'Dysentery' can be clipped to protect the start.

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1983

24Sport 18m, 6
32 ** Dysentery DF

Start as for 'Dysentery'.

A slight variant to 'Dysentery' which makes it a bit harder and more runout. After the 3rd RB head straight up the steeper part of the headwall, skipping the usual 4th RB. Rejoin the original line at its 5th RB. Best done on top rope.

FFA: Rob Whannell, 1985

19 RSport 18m, 5
33 * Dysentery / Dysentery LHF

Start at "D" mark.

Up past 3 RBs then steeper moves R past 4th RB. Trend gently L onto slab and up past a RB and a FH to anchor shared with 'Nic Chips Diffs'.

FA: Gordon Bieske, 1984

17Sport 18m, 6
34 * Dysentery RHF

Start as for 'Dysentery', marked "D".

At the 4th RB on 'Dysentery' veer R then up over roof, clipping 2 further RBs. Up slab above to DBB.

FA: Rob Whannell, 1985

19Sport 18m, 6
35 Bubonic Man

Start 1m R of 'Dysentery'. Marked "BM".

Up past 2 BRs to 'Dysentery RHF' roof. Up over this and up slab to DBB.

FFA: David Whitworth, Michael Long, 1994

19Mixed 18m, 4
36 Bridal Party

Start at 'Wedding Crashers'.

Old school climb which traverses L and R to find line of least resistance. Finishes up 'Exhilarant'.

FFA: Rob & Cath Whannell, 1985

19Trad 18m
37 * Wedding Crashers

Start 3m R of 'Dysentery'.

Effectively bolts the way 'Bridal Party' was top roped for a few decades. Up easy slab to ledge and RB. Nice moves up steep face past 2nd RB to jug and 3rd RB. Mantle onto ledge and continue more easily past 2 RBs to DBB.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2006

21Sport 18m, 5
38 Stemming the Void

Start as for 'Exhilarant'.

Clip the BR in the middle of the steep face on the L part way up 'Exhilarant'. Bridge L to ledges then straight up past 2 further BRs to top out.

FFA: Andrew Smith, 1989

20Mixed 18m, 3
39 * Exhilarant

Start up big corner 2m L of 'Hanger Wall Arete'. Marked "Ex".

Up the corner then finish up slab. Upgraded from the original grade of 16 by consensus.

FFA: Rick White, 1969

17Trad 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
40 * Hanger Wall Arete

Start on arete 1m R of 'Exhilarant', 1m L of 'Gangbang Wall'.

Steep and balancy climbing, 'HWA' takes balance and commitment, while 'GBW' takes crimp strength and brawn. This route is great for climbers who lack the strength to crank through its neighbour, also fun for sandbagging musclebound tough-guys who have no technique.

Up arete clipping 1st 3 FHs shared with 'GBW'. Continue up arete above horizontal seam past further 3 FHs. Finish up easy slab to DBB shared with 'GBW' and 'Hanger Wall', optionally clipping 1 or 2 of the 'HW' BRs.

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Darren Holloway, 1985

22Sport 18m, 6
41 ** Gangbang Wall / GBW

Start 2m R of 'Exhilarant'. Marked "GBW".

Steep cranking on quality sequence (of dubious origin). Up thin slab to L clipping 2 FHs shared with 'Hanger Wall Arete' to 3rd FH at horizontal seam. Head slightly R then straight up headwall past 2 further FHs. Finish up easy slab clipping BRs on 'Hanger Wall' if desired to DBB shared with 'HWA' and 'HW'.

FFA: Andrew Barry, Roger Bourne, 1984

23Sport 18m, 5
42 * Gangbang Wall DS

Start at 'Gangbang Wall', marked "GBW".

Head straight up the face instead of L, clipping the high FH. Rejoins the original 'GBW' when that line traverses in from the L at the horizontal seam.

FA: Paul Hoskins, 1982

23 RSport 18m, 3
43 *** Bitter Gang Bang 23Unknown 18m
44 Hanger Wall

Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall'.

A bolt ladder aid climb up a line of about 15 BRs. Paul Hoskins "freed" this with the use of a bolted on street sign at grade 25. The last problem at 'KP' waiting to be truly freed.

FA: Ted Cais, 1968

18 A1Aid 18m, 15
45 ** Brisbane Bitter VS

Start at 'Hanger Wall', 1m L of usual 'Brisbane Bitter' start.

Climb past first 5 BRs on 'Hanger Wall' clipping 2 or 3, then join the usual 'Brisbane Bitter' line at its 2nd RB.

24Sport 18m, 6
46 *** Brisbane Bitter

Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall', 2m L of 'XXXX'. Marked "BB".

Boulder start to RB then up nice seam past 4 more RBs to anchors. Hard finish.

FFA: Paul Hoskins, 1983

24Sport 18m, 5
47 ** XXXX

Start 2m R of 'Brisbane Bitter', 1m L of 'Chip-a-Holdaway'. Marked "FX".

Solo up drillhole to very high RB. Up face past FH and RB, then pass the dyno crux to clip the final RB. Slightly R to DBB shared with 'Chip-a-Holdaway'.

FFA: Chris Frost, 1985

25 RSport 18m, 4
48 * Chippers-XXXX Link

Linkup. Avoids solo start to 'XXXX'. Climb to 2nd bolt on 'Chip-a-Holdaway' then step L to original 'XXXX' line.

FA: Alex Combes

25Sport 18m, 6
49 *** Chip-A-Holdaway / Chippers

Start 1m L of 'Anonymous'. Marked "CH".

Fantastic. Boulder start to ledge then up daunting wall on holds that just happen to be right where they're needed. 6 FHs then slightly L to anchors shared with 'XXXX'.

FFA: Andrew Horchner, Steven McMillan, 1998

22Sport 18m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
50 Anonymous

Start 1m R of 'Chip-A-Holdaway'. Marked "A".

The original trad route. Up obvious corner, then on up ledges to corner finish. Average protection can now be supplemented with the RBs on 'Anonymous DS' making it a good beginner trad lead.

FFA: David Reeve, 1968

14Trad 20m
51 Anonymous DS

Start on blank wall 1m R of 'Anonymous'.

Retrobolted version of the original 'Anonymous' with a more direct start. Balancy climbing up wall past 2 RBs. Then on up corners and ledges finishing either up corner on R or straight up thin moves on face for more of a challenge. 6 RBs and DBB.

16Sport 18m, 6
52 Anonymous Arete

Start 2m R of 'Anonymous', 1m R of 'Anonymous DS'.

Up shallow corner, then sharp arete, then ledges to top.

FFA: Saul Squires, David Whitworth, 1992

19Trad 18m
53 Bloody Oath Arete

FA: Unknown, 2000

16Trad 18m
54 Bloody Oath

Start 2m L of 'Stoat Clips Bolts'. Marked "BO".

FFA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

16Trad 18m
55 Bloody Oath RHV

FA: Unknown, 2000

16Trad 18m
56 Stoat Clips Bolts

Start 2m L of 'PITG'. Marked "SCB".

Follow the zigzag line of 6 RBs to DBB. There's a 7th RB above the anchor if you want to continue up the last section and top out instead.

FFA: Gordon Bieske, Rob Whannell, 1985

18Sport 18m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
57 ** Punks in the Gin

Start 4m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "PITG".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors.

FFA: Mick Woodrow, Paul Lawrence, 1985

24Sport 17m, 5
58 ** Euthanasia

Start 3m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "E".

Up past 3 BRs then R to the 'Pterodactyl' DBB. Run out.

FA: Greg Sheard, Denis Stocks, 1969

FFA: Paul Hoskins, Dave Moss, 1982

21 RSport 17m, 3
59 Euthanasia V

Start 1m R of usual 'Euthanasia' start.

WARNING: potential for a big groundfall before reaching the 2nd bolt. Straight up to roof, reach left and clip 1st BR on 'Euthanasia'. Then over roof and on to arete. Rejoin 'Euthanasia' at its 3rd BR.

FFA: Unknown, 1980

22 RSport 17m, 2
60 Juicy Gooch

Start just left of Pterodactyl D. Climb up the crack until you reach the roof. Pull yourself up and over the roof, and follow Euthanasia V until its final BR. Branch off left up to finish at the PITG anchors. Best to do this on top rope.

19Mixed 1
61 Pterodactyl D

Start 2m L of usual 'Pterodactyl' start. Marked "PTD".

Up arete and cracked corner to very high RB, then join 'Pterodactyl' at its 3rd RB.

FFA: Rick White, 1969

17Sport 17m, 4
62 Pterodactyl

Start at big "PT" mark.

Nice climbing up past 5 RBs then run it out a bit up easy slab to anchors.

FA: Ted Cais, David Reeve, 1969

FFA: Mick Woodrow, Darren Holloway, 1985

18Sport 17m, 5
63 Heap of Shit

A different start to 'Pterodactyl', starting 1m R.

Only minimally different to the standard 'Pterodactyl' and traverses L to join the usual route at halfway.

"I only got interested in leading the FFA of this route because it makes me the only person I know who can claim to have freed a Hot Henry Barber top-rope problem!" (Mick Woodrow)

FA: 'Hot' Henry Barber, 1975

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Darren Holloway, 1985

20 RTrad 17m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
64 * Honed And Buffed

Start 1m L of 'Wages Of Fear'. Marked "HBu".

Up crap rock at start to high RB. Run it out to 2nd RB, then up slab past 2 further RBs to anchor. Crap start, nice middle and finish. Quite runout using just bolts but has good placements for wires.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

24Sport 17m, 4
65 Dextral Chirality

Linkup. Up 'Honed and Buffed' to the first bolt, tricky crimp traverse to the 2nd bolt on 'Wages Of Fear'. Then crap yourself over to the 2nd bolt on 'Cucumber Castle'. Keep traversing over to the bolt at the bulge of 'Be A Robot For Jesus' then pull the bulge crux and finish up 'BARFJ'. Pretty fun.

FA: Adam Palmer, 2008

25Sport 23m, 6
66 Cubans For All

Variant finish to 'Honed And Buffed'. Climb usual route to third bolt. Then head up and right, clipping either the 3rd bolt of 'HAB' or the 4th of 'Wages Of Fear', or placing a cam in the break. Clip the last bolt of 'Close But No Cigar' and head straight up to the 'WOF' anchors.

FFA: Jay MacGechan, 2013

24Sport 18m, 4
67 Close But No Cigar

Variant finish to 'Wages Of Fear'. Climb usual route until 4th RB at break. From here head up and left past 1 RB, finishing at 'Honed And Buffed' anchors.

Sustained crimping until final awkward move. It's possible to go straight up and then do an awkward traverse but not as nice.

FFA: Matt Hunter, 2013

24Sport 18m, 5
68 *** Wages Of Fear

Start 3m L of 'Cucumber Castle'. Marked "WF".

A 'KP' classic! Straight up line of 5 RBs to anchors. First RB is high but a bit easier to get to than the first on 'Cucumber Castle'.

FA: John Pickard, 1968

FFA: Roger Bourne, 1984

24Sport 18m, 5
69 * Cucumber Of Fear

Linkup. First part 'Cucumber Castle', second part 'Wages Of Fear'.

24Sport 20m
70 *** Cucumber Castle

Start 2m L of 'BARFJ'. Marked "CC".

Classic climb but potential for big falls so make sure you're solid at the grade if leading. Hard start to small ledge and high FH. Follow obvious line past 2nd & 3rd FHs. Above 3rd FH place cam in crack or run it out to 4th FH. Finish at DBB.

FA: Rob Staszewski, 1974

FFA: Andrew Barry, Paul Hoskins, 1984

23Sport 18m, 4
71 * Jesus Ate My Cucumber

Linkup. Up 'Cucumber Castle' to break, finish up last bit of 'BARFJ'.

23Sport 18m
72 ** Be A Robot For Jesus / BARFJ

Start at large "BARFJ" mark.

Very sustained. Up smooth face to high RB. Continue past further 4 RBs and slightly R to anchor.

Dropped from grade 26 to 25 when a hold was "enhanced" in July 2006.

FFA: Andrew Barry, 1984

26Sport 18m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
73 ** Moonlight Fantasia

Start 1m R of 'BARFJ'. Marked "MF".

One of the few good natural lines at 'KP'. It is a shame that the upper layback crack was halved when the council decided to renovate in the mid 1990s by dynamiting it off! Neil Monteith added the new bolted finish when the dust settled.

Up pockets to small roof, then up layback crack on L to halfway ledge. Straight up past RB to crack. Either top out or use BARFJ anchors just L.

FA: Paul Caffyn, Rick White, 1968

FA: Neil Monteith, 1995

19Mixed 18m, 1
74 * Moonlight Fantasia (variant)

Start as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

At small roof, head straight up face to halfway ledge avoiding layback crack on L. From ledge finish as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

FA: Roger Bourne, Rick White, 1979

18Mixed 18m, 1
75 * Moonlight Fantasia (Variant Finish)

Start as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

From halfway ledge climb crack 2m R to top.

FA: BIll Cotman, Tony Zuino, 1996

18Trad 18m
76 *** The Sinister Pathway

Linkup. Very, very nice. Up 'Bufo Marinus' to the bolt. Traverse L across 'Moonlight Fantasia' (place cam under block), then over to 1st bolt of 'Be A Robot For Jesus'. Do BARFJ's crux, then clip 2nd bolt on 'Cucumber Castle'. Traverse L across to 3rd bolt on 'Wages Of Fear' and do its crux. Traverse L across blankish wall to 'Honed And Buffed' and clip last 3 bolts of this route to anchors.

FA: Glen Foley, Adam Palmer

27Trad 25m
77 * Bufo Marinus (direct finish)

Start as for 'Bufo Marinus' but continue up to the L of the small ledge with anchors, finishing at the 'Moonlight Fantasia' ledge instead.

FA: Chris Frost, 1984

25Sport 9m, 1
78 *** Bufo Marinus

Start on blank wall 2m R of 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

Crimp up past FH and on to small ledge with anchors.

FA: Roger Bourne, 1984

25Sport 5m, 1
79 Traverse To Bufo

Start at 'By Ignorance'.

Not really a traverse but an easy L-tending scramble up to the 'Bufo Marinus' anchors. Often soloed to set up a top rope on 'Bufo Marinus'.

10Trad 7m
80 By Ignorance

Start 1m R from the 'Bufo Marinus' arete. Marked "BI".

Up to halfway ledge at base of slab. Up slab to layback crack, then up this, R around bulge and top out.

FFA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

13Trad 18m
81 By Ignorance (Variant Finish)

Start as for 'By Ignorance'.

At the halfway ledge, traverse R 2m and climb up the middle of the slab to the top. No protection.

FFA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

12 RTrad 18m
82 By Ignorance RHV

Start 2m R of the usual 'By Ignorance' start.

Straight up drill hole to halfway ledge, then up the corner at the R edge of the slab. Very bold.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1982

17 RTrad 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The vegetation at the top of the cliff is too thick to allow foot access for top roping from 'Ground Point Zero' until the 'Piles' area.

83 * Ground Point Zero

Start as for 'Squawk', 2m L of 'Gobble'. Marked "SQ".

Climb up 'Squawk' until reaching the 2nd BR. From here go L up the improbable-looking face clipping the 3rd BR on the way to the top. Crimpy.

FA: Richard Henderson, 1987

25Sport 18m, 3
84 Squawk

Start 2m L of 'Gobble'. Marked "SQ".

Sparsely bolted and therefore less often climbed than it would otherwise be. Up past high BR to 2nd BR at start of headwall. Climb headwall clipping 3rd BR to ledge. Climb the arete on the R to the top.

FA: Tony Young, 1983

22Sport 18m, 3
85 * Gobble

Start 3m L of 'Adam's Rib'. Marked "G".

Justifiably popular. Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchor shared with 'The Bolting Gestapo'.

FA: Paul Hoskins, 1983

22Sport 18m, 5
86 * The Bolting Gestapo

Start 2m L of 'Adam's Rib', 1m R of 'Gobble'.

Nice. Climb up clipping 2 RBs, then 2 FHs, then 1 more RB, then the anchor shared with 'Gobble'. Crux is mantling the bulge at the 3rd bolt.

FA: Ross Ferguson

19Sport 18m, 5
87 Adam's Rib (direct finish)

Start as for 'Adam's Rib'.

From the large ledge two-thirds of the way up, climb up the corner instead of the arete.

FA: Chris Ahern, 1993

16Trad 17m
88 Adam's Rib

Start at the massive "AR" mark.

Climb up the corner and face then on up to the large ledge with the corner two-thirds of the way up. From here climb the arete on the R to the top.

FA: Rick White, Ted Cais, 1968

14Trad 17m
89 Adam's Rib (direct start)

Start 1m R of the usual 'Adam's Rib' start.

Climb up the slippery face to join 'Adam's Rib' at the corner.

FA: Richard Henderson, 1985

18Trad 17m
90 * Dollarman

Start 2m R of 'Adam's Rib', where the "$♂" (dollar-man, get it?!) is painted about 4m off the ground.

Up the hard slots (wires) then finish up the 'Adam's Rib' arete.

FA: Unknown, 1980

24Trad 17m
91 Pig City

Start 1m R of 'Dollarman'. Has the piranha at half height.

Hard start past the 1st FH to the slot that forms the piranha's mouth. Clip the 2nd FH. From here the original route tended L to continue up the 'Adam's Rib' arete but the 3rd bolt on 'Pocket Calculator' now leads you R and up to their shared DBB. 3 FHs.

FA: Roger Bourne, 1984

24Sport 17m, 3
92 ** Filling In Time Until The Pension

Traverse. Start up 'Pocket Calculator' to 3rd bolt, then step left for 365m to finish up at 'The Olos Slab'. A fun day out, but really why would you unless you have a lot of time on your hands?

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2009

22Trad 380m
93 Pocket Calculator / (Unknown 1)

Start 2m R of 'Pig City'.

Follow the line of 3 left-trending FHs. The crux is mounting the bulge. Shares 3rd FH & chains with 'Pig City'.

FA: Andrew Mason, 1980

22Sport 15m, 3
94 Pocket Calculator RH Variant-1

Up to 1st FH, then out right over blocks to ledge & 2nd FH. Delicate move into corner & 3rd FH. Hard moves up to crack and jugs, then easy to top.

17Unknown 15m
95 Pocket Calculator RH Variant-2

Up to 1st FH, then out right over blocks to ledge & 2nd FH. Out right & up to 2nd big ledge above 3rd FH, up corner to chains.

14Unknown 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
96 Crud Corner

Start 3m L of 'Bird Dance For Shiva'.

Up the ledges then the loose corner to top.

FA: Peter Barnes, 1950

8Trad 15m
97 Wrinkled Welsh Weenies

Start 2m L of 'Bird Dance For Shiva'.

Up the ledges, traverse R and finish up the slab clipping the BR. Much harder than its official grade of 15.

FA: Mick Woodrow, 1985

15Mixed 13m, 1
98 Bird Dance For Shiva

Start 2m L of 'Steaming Wally'. Marked "BDS".

Climb to slab and onward past the single BR to the top. Shiva is the goddess of death and the bird dance refers to an attempt to fly... the FFA hit the ground and was almost killed on this climb.

FA: Michael Woodrow, 1986

23 RSport 13m, 1
99 Amnesia

Climb 'Bird Dance For Shiva' to halfway. Swing R into blank corner with crack. Up crack past PR. Finish R at 'Steaming Wally' chains.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Erik Smits, 2002

23Trad 13m
100 * Steaming Wally

Start 2m L of 'Gigolo'.

One of the hardest climbs at KP, though it's very cruxy. Follow the line of 3 RBs up the blunt arete to the ledge and anchors.

FA: Paul Hoskins, 1985

26Sport 13m, 3
101 Gigolo

Start about 15m or so L of 'Mantlit', 1m L of a yellow fire hydrant marker against the cliff. Marked "G".

More of a very runout sport climb than a trad route, given there's nowhere to place gear. Climb the series of overhangs clipping as many of the 'Nic Pic Dics' BRs as you can (the first 2 at the very least). Hard & sustained for the grade.

FA: Evan Bieske, Roger Bourne, 1985

17 RMixed 13m, 2
102 Nic Pic Dics

Start at 'Gigolo'. Marked "G".

Up the face just R of the 'Gigolo' overhangs, avoiding its holds. Follows the line of 5 BRs that replaced the original aid bolts. At top head slightly R to the anchors.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collet, 1969

FFA: Andrew Barry, 1985

23Sport 13m, 5
103 Responding to Purely Rabitoid Stimuli Direct Finish

Start just R of 'Gigolo' / 'Nic Pic Dics'.

Follow line of 3 BRs up R side of thin slab to anchor shared with 'Nic Pic Dics'.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2003

20Sport 13m, 3
104 Responding to Purely Rabitoid Stimuli

The original trad line heads R after 1st bolt, finishing up arête & corner.

FA: Mick Woodrow, Moria Blom, 1985

17Mixed 13m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
105 JAFKPR

Start 3m R of 'Gigolo'.

Decent beginner climb, safely bolted. 4 RBs to chains.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Paul Pagoldh, 2013

14Sport 13m, 4
106 Breakout

Start 2m L of 'Stonehinge'. Marked "BO".

Hard for the grade.

FA: Lesa & Col Smithies, 1986

5Trad 14m
107 Stonehinge

Start 1m L of 'Diagonal'. Marked "SH".

Now retrobolted as an easy beginner's lead. First bolt is easy to reach but high and move near the top is hard for the grade so more a lead for competent climbers learning to lead rather than outright beginners. 3 RBs to DBB.

FA: Col Smithies, Malcolm Argent, 1986

FFA: David & Ruth Reeve, Vincent Geisler, 2012

10Sport 12m, 3
108 Diagonal

Start 5m L of 'Mantlit'. Marked "D".

FA: Shane Smithies, 1986

3Trad 17m
109 Slippery Dip

FA: Rick White (solo), 1968

10Trad 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
110 Baby Steps

Start 2m L of 'Mantlit'.

Mini sport lead, perfect for first time leaders. 3 RBs & DBB.

FA: David Reeve, 2012

5Sport 7m, 3
111 Mantlit

Start behind jacaranda tree, 2m L of 'Play School'.

Great beginner lead. Up series of ledges past 4 BRs to chains shared with 'Play School'.

FA: Malcolm Argent, Col Smithies, 2000

13Sport 10m, 4
112 Play School

Start behind jacaranda tree, 3m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. Marked "COD" (for 'Cloak Of Darkness').

Up ramp to high FH. Move on past 2 more FHs and run it out a little up to the chains shared with 'Mantlit'.

FA: Claudia Ferguson, Suzy Goldner, Ross Ferguson

11Sport 10m, 3
113 Terrorsaurus

Contrived.

FA: Malcolm Argent, Col Smithies, 1988

12Trad 14m
114 Cloak Of Darkness

Start behind jacaranda tree, 3m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. Marked "COD".

Up just R of bolts on 'Play School' and top out.

FA: Malcolm Argent, Col Smithies, 1988

13Trad 14m
115 Offal

Start 1m R of 'Play School', 1m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'.

Retrobolted so now a nice easy beginner lead. 5 RBs to DBB.

FA: Col & Shane Smithies, 1986

6Sport 14m, 5
116 Moonlight Dilemma

Start behind jacaranda tree about 15m L of 'Arete', and 2m right of Offal. Marked "MD".

Climbs better than it looks. Up twin choss cracks clipping bolts to the left. Head left at the ledge, and up balancy wall to chossy, crux rooflet. Breach the rooflet to the left, clip the last bolt on 'Offal' and finish at chains shared with 'Offal'.

FA Unknown, original line unknown

Set by Dave and Ruth Reeve, 2013

16Sport 15m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
117 Spooge In A Glove

Chossy corner 1 m R of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. 4 RBs, anchors shared with 'Hanging Garden'.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Paul Pagoldh, 2014

14Sport 15m, 4
118 Hanging Garden

Start 2 m R of 'Spooge In A Glove'. Climbs the L trending ramp to anchor shared with 'Spooge in a Glove'. 3 RBs.

FFA: Paul Pagoldh, Steve Kloske, 2014

12Sport 15m, 3
119 Dodgy Dub

Climbs the blank face and arete 1 m R of 'Hanging Garden'. 3 RBs and anchors.

FFA: Steve Kloske, 2014

18Sport 15m, 3
120 Humungousaur

Start 1m L of 'Spidermonkey'.

Up onto the ledge and clip the RB. Climb the nice finger crack to the start of the slab at halfway. Up the slab clipping 2 RBs and finish at the DBB.

FA: Proude Hawkins, 2012

16Mixed 14m, 3
121 Spidermonkey

Start on the slab 5m L of 'Arete'.

Follow the line of 8 RBs to the DBB. An excellent beginner sport lead with easy but fun climbing and plenty of bolts to get those clips dialled.

FA: Proude Hawkins, 2012

8Sport 15m, 8
122 Tactical Alert Stealth Hound

Start at 'Spidermonkey'.

Nice beginner trad lead with good pro following the crack just R of 'Spidermonkey'. Finish at the 'Spidermonkey' DBB.

FA: Proude Hawkins, 2012

10Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
123 Arete

Start at the arete about 10m L of 'Piles'. Marked "A".

Fun easy trad route. Up onto ledge with the big manky crambling crack. Head out right and up for a few fun moves over crappy gear around the 'roof' thing. Head right to belay off the fence near the top of the stairs. You could also do a dodgy traverse carefully to the anchor on 'White Dopes On Punk'.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

12Trad 13m
124 White Dopes On Punk

Start on pinned face about 10m L of 'Piles' and 1m R of 'Arete'.

A much nicer climb than it looks at first glance. Dyno start to hold and first FH. Up obvious line past 2 more FHs. Break R onto ledge and anchor.

Named after the 1975 hit single from rock band The Tubes.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

21Sport 13m, 3
125 Hernia

Direct start to 'Cox's Corner' up the overhung layback. The pins give good fixed protection.

FFA: Robert Rankin, 1972

12Trad 10m
126 Cox's Corner

Start in corner 3m L of 'Pseudo-Cox'. Faintly marked "CC".

Climb awful face past a number of pins. From here the climb originally traversed L to corner and tree then upward to more wire netting. Now the tree has grown so large you'd be doing well to make it that far. Probably not worth the effort.

FA: Unknown, 1960

8Trad 10m
127 Pseudo-Cox

Start 2m L of 'Cox's Overhang'. Marked "PsC".

Up to ledge, traverse right and up corner to wire netting.

FA: Unknown, 1960

11Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
128 Finger Pop

Chipped boulder start to 'Cox's Overhang', 1m L of usual start.

FA: Robert Rankin, 1975

FFA: Andrew Barry, 1982

18Trad 6m
129 Cox's Overhang

Start 2m L of 'Piles'. Marked "CO".

Follow shallow corner to under overhang, slinging the pin on the way. Place some gear then climb the overhang on its R side. Solo up the slabby arete to top.

FA: Ron Cox, 1959

FFA: Ted Cais, 1968

17 RTrad 17m
130 Cox's Diagonal

Start 2m L of 'Piles', right near 'Cox's Overhang'. Marked "CD".

Contrived traversing.

FA: Unknown, 1960

14Trad 8m
131 ** Piles

Start at the first obvious cliff face at the rightmost (southern or Southbank) end of the main cliffs, behind the "Danger" sign. Marked "P".

Balancy and intense slab climbing. Climb R then L up vertical face past 2 RBs. Crimpy moves past 3rd RB lead to a jug and the halfway ledge. From ledge follow 3 RBs up thin slab to top. Railings at top provide easy anchors to rap or belay from. 6 RBs.

FFA: Paul Hoskins, 1983

22Sport 17m, 6
132 * Cox's Edge

Start 2m R of 'Piles'. Marked "CE".

Up slabby arete. Minimal protection.

FA: Unknown, 1960

13 RTrad 16m
133 Short Wall

Start on the short but surprisingly nice face buried in the jungle about 10m R of 'Piles'. Marked "SW".

Climb past 2 BRs and top out. Railings at the top provide easy anchors to rap or belay from, though it's pretty vegetated at the top too.

FA: Ron Masters, 1977

FFA: Neil Monteith, 1984

16Sport 10m, 2
134 Short Wall RHV

As for 'Short Wall' but climb down and R from the last BR, then up the small chossy corner to top out.

FA: Evan Bieske, 1981

16Sport 10m, 2
135 Keep The Wasp Off The Tiger

Seems to have become lost in the jungle to the R of 'Short Wall'. Supposedly marked "AC".

FA: John Jones, Mick Woodrow, 1984

19Trad 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
3 Diagonal Trad 17m
5 Baby Steps Sport 7m, 3
Breakout Trad 14m
6 Offal Sport 14m, 5
8 Cox's Corner Trad 10m
Crud Corner Trad 15m
Spidermonkey Sport 15m, 8
10 Slippery Dip Trad 14m
Stonehinge Sport 12m, 3
Tactical Alert Stealth Hound Trad 15m
Traverse To Bufo Trad 7m
11 Play School Sport 10m, 3
Pseudo-Cox Trad 10m
12 Arete Trad 13m
By Ignorance (Variant Finish) Trad 18m
Hanging Garden Sport 15m, 3
Hernia Trad 10m
Initial Public Offering Trad 22m
Terrorsaurus Trad 14m
13 By Ignorance Trad 18m
Cloak Of Darkness Trad 14m
* Cox's Edge Trad 16m
Mantlit Sport 10m, 4
14 Adam's Rib Trad 17m
Anonymous Trad 20m
Cox's Diagonal Trad 8m
JAFKPR Sport 13m, 4
Pocket Calculator RH Variant-2 Unknown 15m
Spooge In A Glove Sport 15m, 4
15 Wrinkled Welsh Weenies Mixed 13m, 1
16 Adam's Rib (direct finish) Trad 17m
Anonymous DS Sport 18m, 6
Bloody Oath Trad 18m
Bloody Oath Arete Trad 18m
Bloody Oath RHV Trad 18m
Frontier Psychiatrist Sport 16m, 5
Humungousaur Mixed 14m, 3
Moonlight Dilemma Sport 15m, 5
Short Wall Sport 10m, 2
Short Wall RHV Sport 10m, 2
Tombstone Row Sport 18m, 5
17 Bombadil Sport 18m, 5
By Ignorance RHV Trad 18m
Cox's Overhang Trad 17m
* Dysentery Sport 18m, 6
Eddie Goes to Gay Bars P1 Trad 35m
* Exhilarant Trad 18m
Gigolo Mixed 13m, 2
Mission Impossible Trad 18m
Pocket Calculator RH Variant-1 Unknown 15m
Pterodactyl D Sport 17m, 4
Responding to Purely Rabitoid Stimuli Mixed 13m, 1
SHC Trad 18m
18 Adam's Rib (direct start) Trad 17m
Dodgy Dub Sport 15m, 3
Finger Pop Trad 6m
* Moonlight Fantasia (Variant Finish) Trad 18m
* Moonlight Fantasia (variant) Mixed 18m, 1
Pterodactyl Sport 17m, 5
Socketh It Unto Me Mixed 18m, 1
Socketh It Unto Me V Trad 18m
Stoat Clips Bolts Sport 18m, 6
18 A1 Hanger Wall Aid 18m, 15
19 Anonymous Arete Trad 18m
Bridal Party Trad 18m
Bubonic Man Mixed 18m, 4
** Dysentery DF Sport 18m, 5
* Dysentery RHF Sport 18m, 6
Juicy Gooch Mixed 1
Keep The Wasp Off The Tiger Trad 10m
* Mission Impossible VF Mixed 18m, 1
** Moonlight Fantasia Mixed 18m, 1
Socketh It Unto Me VF Trad 18m
* The Bolting Gestapo Sport 18m, 5
20 * Eddie Goes to Gay Bars Trad 50m
Heap of Shit Trad 17m
Pommy Bastard Sport 18m, 5
Responding to Purely Rabitoid Stimuli Direct Finish Sport 13m, 3
Stemming the Void Mixed 18m, 3
21 * Alien Sex Fiend Sport 18m, 5
Another Girl Another Planet Sport 18m, 3
Dolerite Dreaming Mixed 18m, 2
** Euthanasia Sport 17m, 3
*** Idiot Wind Sport 18m, 5
** Idiot Wind DS Sport 18m, 4
Junket Sport 17m, 5
Kass Sport 18m, 6
* Pink Berets Sport 15m, 4
* The Rasp Sport 18m, 4
* The Stoats Stepped Out Sport 18m, 5
Violet Berets Sport 15m, 4
* Wedding Crashers Sport 18m, 5
White Dopes On Punk Sport 13m, 3
22 Busted Xylophone Mixed 18m, 2
*** Chip-A-Holdaway Sport 18m, 6
Dare to Dream Sport 18m, 4
Euthanasia V Sport 17m, 2
** Filling In Time Until The Pension Trad 380m
* Gobble Sport 18m, 5
* Hanger Wall Arete Sport 18m, 6
** Piles Sport 17m, 6
Pocket Calculator Sport 15m, 3
* Sounds of Silence Trad 88m
Squawk Sport 18m, 3
Waterfall Sport 15m, 5
23 Amnesia Trad 13m
Bird Dance For Shiva Sport 13m, 1
*** Bitter Gang Bang Unknown 18m
Bouncy Castle Sport 18m, 4
*** Cucumber Castle Sport 18m, 4
** Gangbang Wall Sport 18m, 5
* Gangbang Wall DS Sport 18m, 3
* Jesus Ate My Cucumber Sport 18m
Nic Pic Dics Sport 13m, 5
24 * 42 Wheels Sport 18m, 3
*** Brisbane Bitter Sport 18m, 5
** Brisbane Bitter VS Sport 18m, 6
Close But No Cigar Sport 18m, 5
Cubans For All Sport 18m, 4
* Cucumber Of Fear Sport 20m
* Dollarman Trad 17m
* Honed And Buffed Sport 17m, 4
* Nic Chips Diffs Sport 18m, 6
Pig City Sport 17m, 3
** Punks in the Gin Sport 17m, 5
*** Wages Of Fear Sport 18m, 5
25 *** Bufo Marinus Sport 5m, 1
* Bufo Marinus (direct finish) Sport 9m, 1
* Chippers-XXXX Link Sport 18m, 6
Dextral Chirality Sport 23m, 6
* Ground Point Zero Sport 18m, 3
** XXXX Sport 18m, 4
26 ** Be A Robot For Jesus Sport 18m, 5
* Steaming Wally Sport 13m, 3
27 *** The Sinister Pathway Trad 25m