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Description

The leftmost (northern) section of the main cliff at 'Kangaroo Point'. It extends from the northern end of the main cliff at the stone stairs to the waterfall in the middle of the main cliff. The waterfall actually only flows during torrential rain but its associated creekbed, bridge and vegetation make it an obvious demarcation point.

Climbs are listed from left to right. There are bollards at the top for top rope anchors.

Access issues inherited from Kangaroo Point

The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.

Ethic inherited from Kangaroo Point

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Just in case you feel the need to tick an ascent of the stone stairs at the L end of 'Left Main Wall'.

2
13 Short Stack Trad 10m

Buried somewhere in the vegetation L of 'Crap Corner'.

FA: Matthew Bone, Lara Masselos, 2006

3
15 Crap Corner Trad 10m

Start 1m L of 'Earth to Stella'.

Probably not an ironic name. Climb up face to crack at L side of the 'ETS' pillar. Follow crack as it widens and tends R to finish at top of pillar. Shares the 'ETS' DBB.

FFA: Paul Lester, 1996

4
21 * Earth to Stella Sport 10m, 2

Start at base of 10m pillar, about 5m R of bottom of the stone stairs.

Fun pumpy moves up L face of pillar past 2 BRs. Finish on top of pillar at DBB.

FFA: Phil Lawlor, Maree Spinaze, 1995

5
18 R A Quickie Before Dinner Sport 10m, 2

Start 1m R of 'Earth to Stella'.

Straight up R face of the 'ETS' pillar past 2 BRs and finish on top of pillar at the 'ETS' DBB. The bolts are a bit too spaced resulting in a dodgy 2nd clip.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2001

6
21 Devined Trad 10m

Start below steep smooth face about 10m R of 'Earth to Stella' pillar.

Climb series of cracks offering good natural pro to finish at DBB. No mantling or escaping R to ledges. Will need to be de-vined again before the next ascent!

FA: Lee Skidmore, Erik Smits, 1999

7
25 More Bolts Than Metres Sport 7m, 2

Start about 15m L of Web.

Consists of two hard moves left of the bolts. Short, contrived boulder problem on rope, would be a boulder route if the landing was better. Up between small flat aprons on thin edges passing 2 RBs and finishing at DBB.

FA: Brendan Fraser, Craig Pohlman, Mark McMahon, 2005

8
17 Web Trad 20m

Start about 10m L of 'Olos'. Marked "W".

FFA: Andy Anderson, Dave Whitworth, 1992

9

Start as for 'Brickie's Butt Crack (Right Finish)', 2m R of 'Web'.

Up following line of 3 BRs. From ledge at 2/3 height, tend L up crack in face (natural pro) to DBB.

FFA: Ross & Claudia Ferguson, 2002

10

Start as for 'Brickie's Butt Crack (Left Finish)', 2m R of 'Web'.

Up following line of 3 BRs. From ledge at 2/3 height, step R to base of corner then up this (natural pro) to DBB.

FFA: Ross & Claudia Ferguson, 2002

11
12 Brickie's Butt VS-LHF Unknown 20m
12
12 Brickie's Butt VS-RHF Unknown 20m
13
23 * Plumber's Bum Trad 20m
14
20 Snake in the Grass Mixed 20m, 2

Start 3m L of 'Olos'. Marked "SG".

Tend R up thin face past high RB to ledge and 2nd RB. Continue up cracked face (small wires) and top out.

FFA: Dave Whitworth, Andy Anderson, Marten Bruveris, 1992

15
15 Olos Trad 20m

Eddie Irvine's first lead... hung himself by his gear sling when his foot slipped placing a nut in the layback! LOL

FA: Ted Cais, 1969

16

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

17

Start as for 'Olos'.

At halfway, traverse R to meet 'The Olos Slab' at its last bolt and finish as per that climb.

FFA: Tony Young, 1983

18
26 *** The Olos Slab Sport 20m, 5

Start below large blank slab.

Scramble onto ledge. Climb up slab then headwall following line of 5 RBs (with an optional nut to protect the moves to 1st bolt). Finish at DBB.

Originally led at grade 25 making use of a chipped hold. That hold was filled in 2000, upgrading the climb to 26.

FFA: Paul Hoskins, Chris Frost, Andrew Barry, 1985

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2000

19

Linkup. Up 'The Olos Slab' to 3rd BR then R to finish up top of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'.

FFA: Adam Donoghue, Sean Smith, 1995

20
22 * Crimes and Misdemeanours Sport 20m, 5

Start at the R end of Olos slab. Marked "C+M".

Thin moves on slab following 3 BRs then up shallow corner in headwall past 2 BRs to DBB shared with 'Surrender'. Staying true to the route requires staying off both 'The Olos Slab' and the 'Surrender' arete, resulting in a pretty contrived climb.

FFA: Dave Whitworth, Saul Squires, 1994

21
19 ** Surrender Sport 20m, 5

Start at arete 1m R of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'.

Fine and balancy slab climbing that tests the head as much as the feet. A great climb at the grade, but with some potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid. 5 RBs & DBB.

FA: Andrew Barry, Paul Hoskins, 1984

22
23 * Sa-raie Top rope 18m

Start between 'Surrender' and 'Love Hurts'.

FA: Justin Apeggio

23
23 R ** Love Hurts Sport 20m, 5

Start at corner 3m R of 'Surrender', just L of "NUT" mark (it's often confused with 'Nut').

Up corner past 3 RBs then layback the crux to attain ledge. More challenging moves past 2 RBs to finish at DBB.

FFA: Andrew Barry, Paul Hoskins, 1984

24
19 Nut Sport 20m, 6

Start at the arete 2m R of the 'Love Hurts' corner. Marked "NUT", although the actual start is about 1m R of the mark.

Nice climbing with a fun crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts which is tricky for the grade. 6 (well-camouflaged) RBs & DBB.

FA: Neil Montieth, 1996

25

Start as for usual 'Wrath of Grapes', 2m R of 'Nut'.

Begin as for usual route but continue straight up arete in top half passing 2 FHs and topping out. Way better than the original route, this is the way to do it!

FFA: Mick Woodrow, Moira Blom, 1986

26
17 R Wrath of Grapes Mixed 20m, 2

Start 2m R of 'Nut'. Marked "WoG".

Straight up past very high BR to halfway ledge and 2nd BR. Scramble R to base of corner. Layback up corner with natural pro to top.

FA: John Jones, 1980

FFA: Mick Woodrow, Moira Blom, 1986

27
22 ** G & M's Climb Mixed 20m, 4

Start 4m R of 'Wrath of Grapes'.

Up small ledges to very high BR. Continue past 2nd BR to ledge at half height. On up tough headwall past BR & FH to top.

FFA: Gary O'Neill, Maxine Conroy, 1993

28
16 Samson's Pillar Trad 20m

Start at crack 3m L of 'Gynaecology'.

Follow manky crack to top.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Smit Bros, 1998

29

Start 2m L of 'Gynaecology'.

Solo up wall to ridiculously high BR. Continue straight up past 2nd BR to ledge. Finish up hard steep wall past BR & FH and top out.

FFA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, 1992

30
19 Gynaecology Mixed 20m, 2

Start just L of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "G".

Straight up clipping the 2 BRs shared with 'Postmodernist Blues' but keeping to their L. At the halfway ledge step L and climb up corner to top.

FA: Dave Whitworth, Saul Squires, 1992

31
20 * Postmodernist Blues Mixed 20m, 2

Start just R of 'Gynaecology'. Marked "PMB".

Straight up clipping the 2 BRs shared with 'Gynaecology' but keeping to their R. Mantle onto the halfway ledge then up the crack (medium friends) and arete to top.

FA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, 2000

32

Start 2m R of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "LPW".

Follow the L tending line of 5 BRs up nice wall and thin slab. Push through the great crux sequence, placing a #2 wire, and top out.

FA: Michael Woodrow, Moira Blom, 1986

33

Linkup. Start up 'Lesbian Printshop Workers', finish up 'Zac'.

FA: Dan C., 2006

34
20 R * Zac Trad 20m

Start 2m R of 'Lesbian Printshop Workers'. Faintly marked "Z".

Straight up manky 1st half to ledge, clipping BRs on '32A' and/or 'LPW'. Continue up nice cracked slab and corner with desperate natural pro to top.

FFA: Rob Whannell, 1985

35
20 R * 32A Mixed 20m, 3

Start 2m R of 'Zac'. Faintly marked "32A".

Up past 3 BRs to ledge. Up slab then corner with minimal protection and top out to R. Yet another decent climb mostly overlooked because pro is dodgy.

FFA: Evan Bieske, Andrew Barry, Gordon Bieske, Dave Moss, 1985

36
20 R ** Crossed With No Name V Sport 20m, 3

Start 2m R of '32A'. Faintly marked "WNN".

Up steep wall past 2 very well spaced BRs to under overhang. Traverse L around overhang to ledge. Up slab in top half past 1 (2?) BRs to top. Same formula: good climb + bad bolting = few leads.

FFA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth

37
22 R * Crossed With No Name Sport 20m, 3

Start as for 'Crossed With No Name V'.

As for 'Crossed With No Name V' but climb directly through the overhang (currently very vegetated).

FFA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth

FA: Justin Appietto, 1990

38
19 R * Chubba Chips Mods Mixed 20m, 4

Start 2m R of 'Crossed With No Name'. Marked "CCM".

Up steep wall past 3 BRs. Run it out to crack with 4th BR to L. Follow crack placing natural pro and top out.

FFA: Dave Moss, 1984

39

Start 2m or so L of the usual route, near "RRR" mark.

Instead of starting up the 'Juice' crack then traversing L, climb straight up the steep face to join the usual route at its 2nd FH. The usual route's 1st FH off to the R may offer some protection for the start, depending on how direct you go.

40
16 Robbie's Robust Runners Sport 20m, 5

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.

From ledge above crack follow line of FHs L and up. At 4th FH, step R and mantle into base of cuboidal chimney. Continue up this past final FH. The DBB has been stolen (bastards!) so either top out or traverse awkwardly R to the 'Juice' DBB.

FFA: Rob Stewart, 1985

42
20 R * After the Gold Rush Sport 18m, 4

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.

Climb as per 'Juice' to 2nd bolt (1st BR) then continue straight up to climb face between 'Robbie's Robust Runners' chimney on L and 'Juice' corner on R, passing a BR and a FH. Finish at DBB shared with 'Juice'. Very run out between 2nd and 3rd bolts - needs a rebolt?

FFA: Adam Donoghue, Paul Saunders, 1993

43
20 R ** Juice Sport 18m, 4

Start at short crack 3m L of 'Wounded Knee'.

Bouldery moves up crack (somewhat) protected by FH 1m to L. Straight up slabby corner past BR then very long runout up R-tending steps to ledge below corner. Fun moves up corner past 2 BRs to DBB shared with 'After the Gold Rush'. Just barely qualifies as sport - could do with rebolting.

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Martin Lama, 1993

44
18 Keyhole Trad 18m

FA: Michael Woodrow & Martin Lama

45
18 * Wounded Knee Mixed 18m, 3

Start at the "WK" mark.

Up past 3 (4?) BRs then natural pro in second half. DBB.

FA: John Jones, Bernie Corfield, 1980

FFA: Rob & Cath Whannell, 1985

46
15 R * Breakfast At Tiffanys Trad 23m

If you enjoy awkward moves above crap gear than this one's right up your alley.

FA: Mark Gamble, Ron Collett, Dan Roe, Proude Hawkins, 2008

47
21 R Burning Fragment Mixed 18m, 2

Start as for 'Nightfell'.

A more direct version of 'Nightfell' which goes straight through the overhang rather than skirting around it. 2 FHs, though they provide next to no protection at the crux where the potential for a nasty ledge fall is high. Top rope advised.

FFA: Neil Montieth, Martin Blumen, 1995

48
13 Nightfell Trad 18m

Start 3m R of 'Wounded Knee'. Faintly marked "N".

Up layback to ledge below overhang. Traverse R to avoid overhang, briefly joining 'Mank Mistress', before tending back L above overhang. Continue to top. Run out in parts.

FFA: Rick White, Mal Gordon, 1968

49
18 Mank Mistress Sport 18m, 8

Start 2m L of 'Pass the Bosch'.

Well protected sport route with 8 FHs but no DBB - top out required. No nearby bollard for rapping and cleaning either. Belaying up a second is a good option.

FA: Rick White, 1969

50
17 * Pass the Bosch Sport 18m, 6

Start 2m L of 'Vegemite'.

Good climb with sustained moves up nice rock. 6 RBs & DBB.

FFA: Dave Whitworth, Michael Long, 2000

51
18 Vegemite Mixed 18m, 3

Start at the "V" mark.

Up using BR and natural pro to FH and crux at half height. Traverse R and up past BR to top.

FFA: Ross Denington, Darrin Carter, 1996

52
21 ** Prickles Sport 18m, 7

Start 2m R of 'Vegemite' below the nice looking overhang.

Excellent sustained climbing with a great crux sequence through the overhang. 5 RBs then 2 FHs and DBB.

FA: Unknown, 2003

53

Start as for original 'Radioactive Cheerio'.

Instead of traversing R at 2nd bolt, climb straight up the headwall past a FH. Continue up cracked pillar with natural pro to top.

FFA: Darrin Carter, Dave Whitworth, 1995

54
15 Radioactive Cheerio Mixed 18m, 3

Start 2m R of 'Prickles', 2m L of 'Ego'. Faintly marked "RC".

Straight up to BR. Traverse R past BR to mantle move & FH shared with 'Ego'. From here tend L to climb up cracked pillar with natural pro to top.

FFA: Darrin Carter, Dave Whitworth, 1995

55

Start as for original 'Ego'.

Instead of finishing up the slab, climb corner to L with natural pro. Top out.

FA: Paul Lester, 1996

56
23 * Ego Mixed 20m, 5

Start 2m L of 'Silly or Serious'. Marked "EGO".

Up past BR to stance. Place #1 RP then up small corner on L to FH. Step R to face then up past BR to below slab. Thin moves up slab past 2 FHs and top out.

Yet another example of a 'KP' "trad" route that would benefit from being fully bolted.

FFA: Neil Monteith, Dave Whitworth, 1996

57
19 Silly or Serious Sport 18m, 5

Start 2m L of 'Halva'. Faintly marked "SOS".

Nondescript bottom section with fun, airy finish. 5 RBs to DBB shared with 'Halva'.

FFA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, 1993

58
21 Dream Killer Trad 110m

Traverse. Start at 'Halva'.

Four pitch traverse finishing up 'The Olos Slab'.

FA: Neil Monteith, Mark Bennett, 1995

59
16 ** Halva Sport 20m, 5

Start 2m L of 'Kiwi'. Marked "H".

Brilliant moves all the way to the top. Best grade 16 at the cliff. First bolt is a little high but the moves up to it are solid. 5 FHs to DBB shared with 'Silly or Serious'.

FFA: Dave Whitworth, Saul Squires, 1992

60
20 R * Kiwi Sport 18m, 5

Start at the "K" mark.

Nice moves through a thin crux sequence. First bolt is very high (hence the "R" rating). 5 FHs & DBB.

FFA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, 1992

61

Start as for 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)', 3m R of 'Kiwi'.

Straight up past 3 FHs then head L to BR (a bit run out). Up fun juggy bulge then move R along ledge to arete. Either finish up this past 2 BRs to top or traverse R to DBB on 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)'.

Prior to 2004 this climb started up 'Kiwi' and was known as "Kiwi RHV".

FFA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, 1992

FFA: Lee Skidmore, 2004

62

Start as for 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)', 3m R of 'Kiwi'.

Straight up past 3 FHs then head R past BR to roof. Clip FH just above roof and crank through crux (climbing R around roof is a much easier climb). Once above roof, either run it out straight up easy corner to DBB on ledge or move L around arete to join 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)', finishing up past 2 BRs to top.

Prior to 2004 this climb traversed in from 'Kiwi'.

FFA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, 1993

FFA: Lee Skidmore, Chris Gibson, 2004

63
15 Salt Sity Waltz Trad 18m

Obsolete but included for historical/confusion reasons. Disappeared after a fig tree grew nearby. 'Tiger Stripe' covers this part of the wall.

FA: Bernie Corfield & John Jones (Top Rope), 1980

64
15 Tiger Stripe Sport 18m, 5

Start at "TS" mark.

Trend L past 3 FHs then back R again past 4th FH to join 'Tiger's Tail' for final FH & shared DBB.

FA: Bernie Corfield, John Jones, 1980

FFA: Lee Skidmore, Sam Coles, Chris Gibson, 2004

65
14 Tiger's Tail Sport 18m, 5

Start 2m R of 'Tiger Stripe'.

Straight up past 5 FHs to DBB. Last FH & DBB shared with 'Tiger Stripe'.

FA: Guy Pearce, Cass Crane, Ross Ferguson, 2004

66
17 R Tiger's Eye Mixed 18m, 3

Start 2m R of 'Tiger's Tail'. Marked "TE".

Straight up past 2 BRs (1st is high) to drill hole. Sling drill hole and continue past final BR to DBB.

FFA: Darrin Carter, 2000

67
17 R Slippery When Wet Sport 18m, 4

Start 2m R of 'Tiger's Eye'.

Up to very high FH below overhang. Through overhang then past 3 BRs on wall above and top out.

FFA: Darrin Carter, Adam Donoghue, 1994

68
15 R Wind in the Willows Sport 18m, 5

Start 2m R of 'Slippery When Wet', 4m R of 'Tiger's Eye'.

Good climbing but beware the run out to the 2nd bolt. 5 BRs. No DBB so top out required.

FFA: Darrin Carter, Darren Watter, 1993

69
14 Crap Sport 18m, 6

Start 2m R of 'Wind in the Willows'. Marked "C".

Decent beginner lead well-protected by 6 BRs. Top out.

FFA: Darrin Carter, John Hattink, 1993

70
14 Malcontent Sport 18m, 6

Start just R of 'Crap'. Marked "M".

Straight up using the bolts on 'Crap' but keeping to their R. Top out.

FFA: Darrin Carter, 1993

71
16 Razor Sport 18m

FA: Darrin Carter & Ross Denington, 1996

72
16 Untouched Sport 18m, 4

Start 1m R of 'Razor'. Marked "UN".

Follow line of 2 BRs, then a FH, then another BR. Top out.

FFA: Darrin Carter, Adam Donoghue, 1993

73
16 Dirty Situations Sport 18m, 4

Start 2m R of 'Untouched'. Marked "DS".

Up past 2 BRs to overhang. Reach out and clip fixed carabiner on lip of overhang. Mantle then up easily past another BR and top out.

FFA: Darrin Carter, Adam Donoghue, 1993

74
19 * Saturn Return Sport 30m

Traverse. Start at 'Insomnia'.

Up to 1st bolt on 'Insomnia' then traverse L to 1st BR on 'Slippery When Wet'. Continue up and L to 3rd bolt of 'Kiwi' and finish up this to chains.

FFA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, 1992

75
15 Insomnia Mixed 18m, 4

Start 2m R of 'Dirty Situations'. Marked "I".

Way too runout as a sport route so take trad gear. For example, potential big groundfall before 3rd bolt can be protected with a small cam such as a C3. 4 RBs and DBB.

FFA: Andy Anderson, Dave Whitworth, Saul Squires, 1992

76
14 Gungle Gim Trad 18m

FA: Darrin Carter, 1993

77
12 Gungle Gim Right Trad 18m

FA: Dave 'Baldrick' Chapman, 1995

78
12 Zoro Trad 18m

FA: Marcus T O'Mara

79
14 Stephen's Eyeful Tower Sport 18m, 5

Start 1m L of 'Bottle Stopper'.

Well-protected beginner lead. Up past 5 BRs (meaning bolt plates are required) and top out.

FFA: Neil Monteith, Mark Burnett, 1995

80
15 Bottle Stopper Sport 18m, 4

Start at "BS" mark.

Nice easy sport lead. 4 RBs & DBB.

FFA: Neil Monteith, Mark Burnett, 1995

81
15 R Street Ruffians Mixed 18m, 3

Start 1.5m R of 'Bottle Stopper'. Marked "SR".

Trad route with some BRs. Probably harder than grade suggests.

FA: Darrin Carter, David Wright, 1995

82
17 R Slow Cure Sport 18m, 6

Start 2m L of 'Standing Room Only'.

Up past 5 RBs to ledge at 2/3 height. Finish up 'SRO', clipping its last RB before reaching shared DBB. Crux is getting over bulge at 5th bolt - tricky, somewhat confusing and likely harder than grade suggests.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2005

83
16 Standing Room Only Sport 18m, 5

Start at "SRO" mark.

Hard start to 1st bolt then continues much more easily. 5 RBS to DBB.

FA: David Whitworth, Michael Long, 1994

84
16 Without Council Approval Sport 18m, 5

Start 2m R of 'Standing Room Only'.

Follow L-trending line of 5 RBs, finishing at 'SRO' DBB.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Claudia Ferguson, 2005

85
16 Slime Fresh Trad 18m

Start 4m R of 'Standing Room Only'. Marked "SF".

Follows the obvious finger crack to top. One of the best trad routes at 'KP'.

FA: Eddie Irvine, 1984

86
14 Pentennial Romanticide Sport 18m, 5

Start midway between 'Slime Fresh' & 'David Mac'.

Follow line of 5 RBs to DBB.

FFA: Adam Gibson, Ria Zoeller, 2009

87
15 David Mac Mixed 18m, 3

Start 1m L of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "DM".

Named after a climber killed on Crookneck. Climb up slinging drill hole, then follow line of 3 RBs to DBB. Originally led as a trad route but has been retrobolted.

FA: Neil Monteith, Mark Bennett, 1995

88
14 R Cornflake Crack Trad 18m

Start at the base of the deep crack.

Follow the right-tending crack until it runs out then head straight to the top. Minimal protection, especially higher up.

FA: Glenn Sharrock, Loretta Davis, Brett Henderson, 1995

89
14 Smog Trad 18m

Start 3m R of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "S".

FA: Tony Howes, Bernie Corfield, 1980

90

Start 2m L of the usual 'The Hyena's Heinie' start.

An alternate start to 'The Hyena's Heinie' which makes it very slightly harder. Up steep blocky arete past 2 RBs before joining the usual line at its 3rd bolt.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson

91
13 The Hyena's Heinie / MB Sport 18m, 5

Start 2m L of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI").

Up past 5 RBs to DBB. Was known as "MB" before being bolted.

Set by Ross Ferguson Gareth Llewellin, 2006

92
14 The Lemur's Femur / SI Sport 18m, 6

Start at the faint "SI" mark.

Up past 6 RBs to DBB. Was known as "SI" before being bolted.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2006

93
13 The Trad Rebellion Trad 16m

Start 1.5m to L of 'The Bee's Knees'.

Up trad line with 3-4 nut placements. Finish at "The Bee's Knees' DBB.

FA: Alex Combes, Dave Fitzgibbon, 2006

94
16 The Bee's Knees Sport 16m, 5

Start 3m R of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI").

Up past 5 RBs to ledge, then L to DBB.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Kevin Coleman, Ross Ferguson, 2005

95
14 The Duck's Nuts Sport 16m, 5

Start 1.5m L of 'Date Anatomy'.

Climb past 5 RBs then mantle awkwardly onto ledge and finish at DBB shared with 'Date Anatomy'.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, Kevin Coleman, 2005

96
13 The Duck's Anatomy Trad 18m

Start at 'The Duck's Nuts'.

Trad line near 'The Duck's Nuts' and 'Date Anatomy'.

FA: Mark Gamble, Damien Vladas, 2009

97
12 Date Anatomy Sport 16m, 4

Start at the "DA" mark.

Great beginner lead. Up arete following 4 RBs to DBB.

FA: Marcus O'Mara, 1994

FFA: Kevin Coleman, Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2005

98
23 Dinosaur Sport 15m, 5

Start 2m R of 'Date Anatomy'.

Easy climbing past 5 FHs then crux dyno move over big overhang. Straying R at the overhang onto 'Ring Around the Moon' makes it much much easier.

FA: Craig Pohlman, Robert Audsley, 2005

99

Start 1m R of 'Dinosaur'. Marked "RAM".

Up arete to overhang then escape R and top out.

FA: Bernie Corfield, John Jones, 1980

100
17 Lost in Space Trad 18m

Start at obvious crack 3m R of 'Ring Around the Moon'.

Up crack to overhang. Over this (crux) and top out to R.

FA: Glenn Sharrock, G. Harden, 1995

101
22 R * Pre Menstrual Tendons Sport 18m, 5

Start 1m R of 'Lost in Space'. Marked "PMT".

Very high 1st bolt. 5 RBs and DBB. The section up to the first bolt can be protected with a tricam in the pocket, and a small cam in the slot as you pull over the bulge.

FA: Martin Lama, Michael Woodrow, 1993

102
22 R * Froth Mixed 18m, 4

Start up the gap between the overhangs, 2m R of 'Pre Menstrual Tendons'.

Easy climbing past 2 BRs then flake with natural pro. Finish over crux overhang with 2 BRs and top out.

FA: Martin Lama, Michael Woodrow, 1993

103
20 Keepings Off Top rope 18m

Start below the overhang midway between 'Froth' and 'Arrow'.

Straight up, keeping off 'Froth' and 'Arrow'.

104
19 R Arrow Sport 18m, 4

Start at the "A" mark just below the drill hole.

First bolt is very high. Slinging the drill hole offers some protection but still take care not to fall while clipping. 4 RBs & DBB.

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Martin Lama, 1993

105

Start at crack 2m R of 'Arrow'.

Good climbing but very bold on lead. Up crack then push past overhang to ledge. Finish up unprotected wall.

FA: John Hattink, Darrin Carter, 1993

106

Start 2m L of 'FOBS'.

6 RBs. Shares final RB & DBB with 'FOBS'.

FA: Graham Page, Adam Dodson, 2007

107
20 * Far Out Brussel Sprout Sport 13m, 6

Start at the "FOBS" mark.

Hard overhung start then more easily up past 6 RBs to DBB.

FA: Darrin Carter, Adam Donoghue, 1993

108
20 * Move Over Brussel Sprout Sport 18m, 4

Start at the "MOBS" mark, 2m R of 'FOBS'.

Bouldery start and a little bit run out. Make sure to tend L after 4th bolt. 4 FHs plus an optional BR to protect the awkward reach back to clip the DBB.

FA: Dave Whitworth, Saul Squires, 1994

109
19 R Mr Plow Mixed 18m, 5

Start 2m R of 'MOBS'.

Looks just like a sport route until you realise how runout it is between the 3rd & 4th bolts and start wishing you'd brought some trad gear. 5 FHs & DBB.

FA: Craig Pohlman, 2005

110
14 That Boy Needs Therapy. Sport 15m, 4

Start 5m R of 'MOBS'.

A popular beginner lead that gets harder as you go up. 4 RBs and DBB.

111
19 Manacubus Sport 16m, 3

Start 1m R of 'That Boy Needs Therapy', 3m L of 'Plunging for Mudbunnies'.

Up past 2 BRs then clip fixed carabiner at lip of overhang. Mantle onto ledge with DBB.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Erik Smits, Phillippa Newton, 1999

112
19 * Plunging for Mudbunnies Sport 18m, 4

Start at drillhole 2m L of 'Tuesday Afternoon Walk'.

Hard boulder start up drillhole then straight up past 3 FHs to below overhang. Awkward reach out to 4th FH and lip of overhang. Mantle onto ledge with DBB.

FFA: Andrew Mason

113

Start just L of the waterfall. Marked "TA".

Manky trad crack.

FA: Unknown, 1980