Topo #2307 - Earth to Stella area

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Route Grade Popularity Style
3 Crap Corner

Start 1m L of 'Earth to Stella'. Probably not an ironic name. Climb up face to crack at L side of the 'ETS' pillar. Follow crack as it widens and tends R to finish at top of pillar. Shares the 'ETS' DBB.

15 Trad 10m Unlink route
5 * Earth to Stella

Start at base of 10m pillar, about 5m R of bottom of the stone stairs. Fun pumpy moves up L face of pillar past 2 BRs. Finish on top of pillar at DBB.

21 Sport 10m, 2 Unlink route
6 A Quickie Before Dinner

Start 1m R of 'Earth to Stella'. Straight up R face of the 'ETS' pillar past 2 BRs and finish on top of pillar at the 'ETS' DBB. The bolts are a bit too spaced resulting in a dodgy 2nd clip.

18 Sport 10m, 2 Unlink route

Topo #1296

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Route Grade Popularity Style
12 Web

Start about 10m L of 'Olos'. Marked "W".

17 Trad 20m Unlink route
13 Brickie's Butt Crack (Left Finish)

Start as for 'Brickie's Butt Crack (Right Finish)', 2m R of 'Web'. Up following line of 3 BRs. From ledge at 2/3 height, tend L up crack in face (natural pro) to DBB. Start is much easier (12) if steps to R are climbed instead of directly up past the bolts.

18 Mixed 20m, 3 Unlink route
14 Brickie's Butt Crack (Right Finish)

Start as for 'Brickie's Butt Crack (Left Finish)', 2m R of 'Web'. Up following line of 3 BRs. From ledge at 2/3 height, step R to base of corner then up this (natural pro) to DBB. Start is much easier (12) if steps to R are climbed instead of directly up past the bolts.

18 Mixed 20m, 3 Unlink route
15 * Plumber's Bum

Start 2m L of 'Snake in the Grass'. Up thin face tending L past 2 RBs to halfway ledge. BRs & a FH in top half, finishes at chains.

23 Sport 20m, 6 Unlink route
17 Snake in the Grass

Start 3m L of 'Olos'. Marked "SG". Tend R up thin face past high RB to ledge and 2nd RB. Continue up cracked face (small wires) and top out.

20 Mixed 20m, 2 Unlink route
18 Olos

Eddie Irvine's first lead... hung himself by his gear sling when his foot slipped placing a nut in the layback! LOL

15 Trad 20m Unlink route
21 *** The Olos Slab

Start below large blank slab. Scramble onto ledge. Climb up slab then headwall following line of 5 RBs (with an optional nut to protect the moves to 1st bolt). Finish at DBB. Originally led at grade 25 making use of a chipped hold. That hold was filled in 2000, upgrading the climb to 26.

26 Sport 20m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #1297

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Route Grade Popularity Style
18 Olos

Eddie Irvine's first lead... hung himself by his gear sling when his foot slipped placing a nut in the layback! LOL

15 Trad 20m Unlink route
21 *** The Olos Slab

Start below large blank slab. Scramble onto ledge. Climb up slab then headwall following line of 5 RBs (with an optional nut to protect the moves to 1st bolt). Finish at DBB. Originally led at grade 25 making use of a chipped hold. That hold was filled in 2000, upgrading the climb to 26.

26 Sport 20m, 5 Unlink route
25 ** Surrender

Start at arete 1m R of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'. Fine and balancy slab climbing that tests the head as much as the feet. A great climb at the grade, but with some potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid. 5 RBs & DBB.

19 Sport 20m, 5 Unlink route
27 ** Love Hurts

Start at corner 3m R of 'Surrender', just L of "NUT" mark (it's often confused with 'Nut'). Up corner past 3 RBs then layback the crux to attain ledge. More challenging moves past 2 RBs to finish at DBB.

22 Sport 20m, 5 Unlink route
28 Nut

Start at the arete 2m R of the 'Love Hurts' corner. Marked "NUT", although the actual start is about 1m R of the mark. Nice climbing with a fun crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts which is tricky for the grade. 6 (well-camouflaged) RBs & DBB. Was originally led with just two bolts and trad. Retro-bolted with permission.

19 Sport 20m, 6 Unlink route
29 Wrath of Grapes (Variant Finish)

Start as for usual 'Wrath of Grapes', 2m R of 'Nut'. Begin as for usual route but continue straight up arete in top half passing 2 FHs and topping out. Way better than the original route, this is the way to do it!

19 Sport 20m, 4 Unlink route
30 Wrath of Grapes

Start 2m R of 'Nut'. Marked "WoG". Straight up past very high BR to halfway ledge and 2nd BR. Scramble R to base of corner. Layback up corner with natural pro to top.

17 Mixed 20m, 2 Unlink route
32 ** G & M's Climb

Start 4m R of 'Wrath of Grapes'. Up small ledges to very high BR. Continue past 2nd BR to ledge at half height. On up tough headwall past BR & FH to top.

22 Mixed 20m, 4 Unlink route
33 Samson's Pillar

Start at crack 3m L of 'Gynaecology'. Follow manky crack to top.

16 Trad 20m Unlink route

Topo #2461 - Surrender area

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Route Grade Popularity Style
23 * Crimes and Misdemeanours

Start at the R end of Olos slab. Marked "C+M". Thin moves on slab following 3 BRs then up shallow corner in headwall past 2 BRs to DBB shared with 'Surrender'. Staying true to the route requires staying off both 'The Olos Slab' and the 'Surrender' arete, resulting in a pretty contrived climb.

22 Sport 20m, 5 Unlink route
25 ** Surrender

Start at arete 1m R of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'. Fine and balancy slab climbing that tests the head as much as the feet. A great climb at the grade, but with some potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid. 5 RBs & DBB.

19 Sport 20m, 5 Unlink route
27 ** Love Hurts

Start at corner 3m R of 'Surrender', just L of "NUT" mark (it's often confused with 'Nut'). Up corner past 3 RBs then layback the crux to attain ledge. More challenging moves past 2 RBs to finish at DBB.

22 Sport 20m, 5 Unlink route
28 Nut

Start at the arete 2m R of the 'Love Hurts' corner. Marked "NUT", although the actual start is about 1m R of the mark. Nice climbing with a fun crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts which is tricky for the grade. 6 (well-camouflaged) RBs & DBB. Was originally led with just two bolts and trad. Retro-bolted with permission.

19 Sport 20m, 6 Unlink route

Topo #2474 - Wrath of Grapes area

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Route Grade Popularity Style
29 Wrath of Grapes (Variant Finish)

Start as for usual 'Wrath of Grapes', 2m R of 'Nut'. Begin as for usual route but continue straight up arete in top half passing 2 FHs and topping out. Way better than the original route, this is the way to do it!

19 Sport 20m, 4 Unlink route
30 Wrath of Grapes

Start 2m R of 'Nut'. Marked "WoG". Straight up past very high BR to halfway ledge and 2nd BR. Scramble R to base of corner. Layback up corner with natural pro to top.

17 Mixed 20m, 2 Unlink route
32 ** G & M's Climb

Start 4m R of 'Wrath of Grapes'. Up small ledges to very high BR. Continue past 2nd BR to ledge at half height. On up tough headwall past BR & FH to top.

22 Mixed 20m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #1298

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Route Grade Popularity Style
32 ** G & M's Climb

Start 4m R of 'Wrath of Grapes'. Up small ledges to very high BR. Continue past 2nd BR to ledge at half height. On up tough headwall past BR & FH to top.

22 Mixed 20m, 4 Unlink route
33 Samson's Pillar

Start at crack 3m L of 'Gynaecology'. Follow manky crack to top.

16 Trad 20m Unlink route
34 ** Saul and Dave's Excellent Adventure

Start 2m L of 'Gynaecology'. Solo up wall to ridiculously high BR. Continue straight up past 2nd BR to ledge. Finish up hard steep wall past BR & FH and top out.

22 Sport 20m, 4 Unlink route
36 * Gynaecology

Start just L of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "G". Straight up clipping the 2 BRs shared with 'Postmodernist Blues' but keeping to their L. At the halfway ledge step L and climb up corner to top.

19 Mixed 20m, 2 Unlink route
37 * Postmodernist Blues

Start just R of 'Gynaecology'. Marked "PMB". Straight up clipping the 2 BRs shared with 'Gynaecology' but keeping to their R. Mantle onto the halfway ledge then up the crack (medium friends) and arete to top.

20 Mixed 20m, 2 Unlink route
38 ** Lesbian Printshop Workers

Start 2m R of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "LPW". Follow the L tending line of 5 BRs up nice wall and thin slab. Push through the great crux sequence, placing a #2 wire, and top out.

22 Mixed 20m, 5 Unlink route
40 * Zac

Start 2m R of 'Lesbian Printshop Workers'. Faintly marked "Z". Straight up manky 1st half to ledge, clipping BRs on '32A' and/or 'LPW'. Continue up nice cracked slab and corner with desperate natural pro to top.

20 Trad 20m Unlink route
41 * 32A

Start 2m R of 'Zac'. Faintly marked "32A". Up past 3 BRs to ledge. Up slab then corner with minimal protection and top out to R. Yet another decent climb mostly overlooked because pro is dodgy.

20 Mixed 20m, 3 Unlink route
43 ** Crossed With No Name V

Start 2m R of '32A'. Faintly marked "WNN". Up steep wall past 2 very well spaced BRs to under overhang. Traverse L around overhang to ledge. Up slab in top half past 1 (2?) BRs to top. Same formula: good climb + bad bolting = few leads.

20 Sport 20m, 3 Unlink route
44 * Crossed With No Name

Start as for 'Crossed With No Name V'. As for 'Crossed With No Name V' but climb directly through the overhang (currently very vegetated).

22 Sport 20m, 3 Unlink route
45 * Chubba Chips Mods

Start 2m R of 'Crossed With No Name'. Marked "CCM". Up steep wall past 3 BRs. Run it out to crack with 4th BR to L. Follow crack placing natural pro and top out.

19 Mixed 20m, 4 Unlink route
47 Robbie's Robust Runners

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'. From ledge above crack follow line of FHs L and up. At 4th FH, step R and mantle into base of cuboidal chimney. Continue up this past final FH. The DBB has been stolen (bastards!) so either top out or traverse awkwardly R to the 'Juice' DBB.

16 Sport 20m, 5 Unlink route
50 ** Juice

Start at short crack 3m L of 'Wounded Knee'. Bouldery moves up crack (somewhat) protected by FH 1m to L. Straight up slabby corner past BR then very long runout up R-tending steps to ledge below corner. Fun moves up corner past 2 BRs to DBB shared with 'After the Gold Rush'. Just barely qualifies as sport - could do with rebolting.

20 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #2476 - Lesbian Printshop Workers area

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Route Grade Popularity Style
33 Samson's Pillar

Start at crack 3m L of 'Gynaecology'. Follow manky crack to top.

16 Trad 20m Unlink route
34 ** Saul and Dave's Excellent Adventure

Start 2m L of 'Gynaecology'. Solo up wall to ridiculously high BR. Continue straight up past 2nd BR to ledge. Finish up hard steep wall past BR & FH and top out.

22 Sport 20m, 4 Unlink route
36 * Gynaecology

Start just L of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "G". Straight up clipping the 2 BRs shared with 'Postmodernist Blues' but keeping to their L. At the halfway ledge step L and climb up corner to top.

19 Mixed 20m, 2 Unlink route
37 * Postmodernist Blues

Start just R of 'Gynaecology'. Marked "PMB". Straight up clipping the 2 BRs shared with 'Gynaecology' but keeping to their R. Mantle onto the halfway ledge then up the crack (medium friends) and arete to top.

20 Mixed 20m, 2 Unlink route
38 ** Lesbian Printshop Workers

Start 2m R of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "LPW". Follow the L tending line of 5 BRs up nice wall and thin slab. Push through the great crux sequence, placing a #2 wire, and top out.

22 Mixed 20m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #1299

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Route Grade Popularity Style
47 Robbie's Robust Runners

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'. From ledge above crack follow line of FHs L and up. At 4th FH, step R and mantle into base of cuboidal chimney. Continue up this past final FH. The DBB has been stolen (bastards!) so either top out or traverse awkwardly R to the 'Juice' DBB.

16 Sport 20m, 5 Unlink route
49 * After the Gold Rush

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'. Climb as per 'Juice' to 2nd bolt (1st BR) then continue straight up to climb face between 'Robbie's Robust Runners' chimney on L and 'Juice' corner on R, passing a BR and a FH. Finish at DBB shared with 'Juice'. Very run out between 2nd and 3rd bolts - needs a rebolt?

20 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route
50 ** Juice

Start at short crack 3m L of 'Wounded Knee'. Bouldery moves up crack (somewhat) protected by FH 1m to L. Straight up slabby corner past BR then very long runout up R-tending steps to ledge below corner. Fun moves up corner past 2 BRs to DBB shared with 'After the Gold Rush'. Just barely qualifies as sport - could do with rebolting.

20 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route
53 * Wounded Knee

Start at the "WK" mark. Up past 4 BRs then natural pro in second half. DBB.

18 Mixed 18m, 3 Unlink route
55 Burning Fragment

Start as for 'Nightfell'. A more direct version of 'Nightfell' which goes straight through the overhang rather than skirting around it. 2 FHs, though they provide next to no protection at the crux where the potential for a nasty ledge fall is high. Top rope advised.

21 R Mixed 18m, 2 Unlink route
57 Mank Mistress

Start 2m L of 'Pass the Bosch'. Originally climbed on top rope in the 60s, 'Mank Mistress' was anonymously retrobolted into a seemingly well protected sport route in about 2010. However careful inspection in 2014 (triggered by the anonymous bolting of 'Breakfast At Tiffanys') revealed substandard bolting and the bolts were removed. Awaiting rebolting, top rope only for now.

18 Top rope 18m Unlink route
59 * Pass the Bosch

Start 2m L of 'Vegemite'. Good climb with sustained moves up nice rock. 6 RBs & DBB. There's a ground anchor just L of the base for lead rope soloing.

17 Sport 18m, 6 Unlink route
61 ** Prickles

Start 2m R of 'Vegemite' below the nice looking overhang. Excellent sustained climbing with a great crux sequence through the overhang. 5 RBs then 2 FHs and DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

21 Sport 18m, 7 Unlink route

Topo #1300

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Route Grade Popularity Style
55 Burning Fragment

Start as for 'Nightfell'. A more direct version of 'Nightfell' which goes straight through the overhang rather than skirting around it. 2 FHs, though they provide next to no protection at the crux where the potential for a nasty ledge fall is high. Top rope advised.

21 R Mixed 18m, 2 Unlink route
57 Mank Mistress

Start 2m L of 'Pass the Bosch'. Originally climbed on top rope in the 60s, 'Mank Mistress' was anonymously retrobolted into a seemingly well protected sport route in about 2010. However careful inspection in 2014 (triggered by the anonymous bolting of 'Breakfast At Tiffanys') revealed substandard bolting and the bolts were removed. Awaiting rebolting, top rope only for now.

18 Top rope 18m Unlink route
59 * Pass the Bosch

Start 2m L of 'Vegemite'. Good climb with sustained moves up nice rock. 6 RBs & DBB. There's a ground anchor just L of the base for lead rope soloing.

17 Sport 18m, 6 Unlink route
61 ** Prickles

Start 2m R of 'Vegemite' below the nice looking overhang. Excellent sustained climbing with a great crux sequence through the overhang. 5 RBs then 2 FHs and DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

21 Sport 18m, 7 Unlink route
63 * Radioactive Cheerio (Direct)

Start as for original 'Radioactive Cheerio'. Instead of traversing R at 2nd bolt, climb straight up the headwall past a FH. Continue up cracked pillar with natural pro to top.

17 Mixed 18m, 3 Unlink route
66 * Ego

Start 2m L of 'Silly or Serious'. Marked "EGO". Up past BR to stance. Place #1 RP then up small corner on L to FH. Step R to face then up past BR to below slab. Thin moves up slab past 2 FHs and top out. Yet another example of a 'KP' "trad" route that would benefit from being fully bolted.

23 Mixed 20m, 5 Unlink route
67 Silly or Serious

Start 2m L of 'Halva'. Faintly marked "SOS". Nondescript bottom section with fun, airy finish. 5 RBs to DBB shared with 'Halva'.

19 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
69 ** Halva

Start 2m L of 'Kiwi'. Marked "H". Brilliant moves all the way to the top. Best grade 16 at the cliff. First bolt is a little high but the moves up to it are solid. 5 FHs to DBB shared with 'Silly or Serious'.

16 Sport 20m, 5 Unlink route
71 * Kiwi

Start at the "K" mark. Nice moves through a thin crux sequence. First bolt is very high (hence the "R" rating). 5 FHs & DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

20 R Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
72 Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)

Start as for 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)', 3m R of 'Kiwi'. Straight up past 3 FHs then head L to BR (a bit run out). Up fun juggy bulge then move R along ledge to arete. Either finish up this past 2 BRs to top or traverse R to DBB on 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)'. Prior to 2004 this climb started up 'Kiwi' and was known as "Kiwi RHV".

18 Sport 18m, 6 Unlink route
73 Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)

Start as for 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)', 3m R of 'Kiwi'. Straight up past 3 FHs then head R past BR to roof. Clip FH just above roof and crank through crux (climbing R around roof is a much easier climb). Once above roof, either run it out straight up easy corner to DBB on ledge or move L around arete to join 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)', finishing up past 2 BRs to top. Prior to 2004 this climb traversed in from 'Kiwi'.

21 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
75 Tiger Stripe

Start at "TS" mark. Trend L past 3 FHs then back R again past 4th FH to join 'Tiger's Tail' for final FH & shared DBB.

15 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
77 Tiger's Tail

Start 2m R of 'Tiger Stripe'. Straight up past 5 FHs to DBB. Last FH & DBB shared with 'Tiger Stripe'.

14 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
78 Tiger's Eye

Start 2m R of 'Tiger's Tail'. Marked "TE". Straight up past 2 BRs (1st is high) to drill hole. Sling drill hole and continue past final BR to DBB.

17 R Mixed 18m, 3 Unlink route
79 Slippery When Wet

Start 2m R of 'Tiger's Eye'. Up to very high FH below overhang. Through overhang then past 3 BRs on wall above and top out.

17 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #2207 - Halva area

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Route Grade Popularity Style
67 Silly or Serious

Start 2m L of 'Halva'. Faintly marked "SOS". Nondescript bottom section with fun, airy finish. 5 RBs to DBB shared with 'Halva'.

19 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
69 ** Halva

Start 2m L of 'Kiwi'. Marked "H". Brilliant moves all the way to the top. Best grade 16 at the cliff. First bolt is a little high but the moves up to it are solid. 5 FHs to DBB shared with 'Silly or Serious'.

16 Sport 20m, 5 Unlink route
71 * Kiwi

Start at the "K" mark. Nice moves through a thin crux sequence. First bolt is very high (hence the "R" rating). 5 FHs & DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

20 R Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
72 Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)

Start as for 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)', 3m R of 'Kiwi'. Straight up past 3 FHs then head L to BR (a bit run out). Up fun juggy bulge then move R along ledge to arete. Either finish up this past 2 BRs to top or traverse R to DBB on 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)'. Prior to 2004 this climb started up 'Kiwi' and was known as "Kiwi RHV".

18 Sport 18m, 6 Unlink route
73 Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)

Start as for 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)', 3m R of 'Kiwi'. Straight up past 3 FHs then head R past BR to roof. Clip FH just above roof and crank through crux (climbing R around roof is a much easier climb). Once above roof, either run it out straight up easy corner to DBB on ledge or move L around arete to join 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)', finishing up past 2 BRs to top. Prior to 2004 this climb traversed in from 'Kiwi'.

21 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #1302

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Route Grade Popularity Style
79 Slippery When Wet

Start 2m R of 'Tiger's Eye'. Up to very high FH below overhang. Through overhang then past 3 BRs on wall above and top out.

17 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route
80 Wind in the Willows

Start 2m R of 'Slippery When Wet', 4m R of 'Tiger's Eye'. Good climbing but beware the run out to the 2nd bolt. 5 BRs. No DBB so top out required.

15 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
82 Crap

Start 2m R of 'Wind in the Willows'. Marked "C". Decent beginner lead well-protected by 6 BRs. Top out.

14 Sport 18m, 6 Unlink route
85 Untouched

Start 1m R of 'Razor'. Marked "UN". Follow line of 2 BRs, then a FH, then another BR. Top out.

16 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route
86 Dirty Situations

Start 2m R of 'Untouched'. Marked "DS". Up past 2 BRs to overhang. Reach out and clip fixed carabiner on lip of overhang. Mantle then up easily past another BR and top out.

16 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route
89 Insomnia

Start 2m R of 'Dirty Situations'. Marked "I". Way too runout as a sport route so take trad gear. For example, potential big groundfall before 3rd bolt can be protected with a small cam such as a C3. 4 RBs and DBB.

15 Mixed 18m, 4 Unlink route
94 Stephen's Eyeful Tower

Start 1m L of 'Bottle Stopper'. Up past 5 BRs and top out.

14 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
95 Bottle Stopper

Start at "BS" mark. Nice easy sport lead. 4 RBs & DBB.

15 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route
97 Slow Cure

Start 2m L of 'Standing Room Only'. Up past 5 RBs to ledge at 2/3 height. Finish up 'SRO', clipping its last RB before reaching shared DBB. Crux is getting over bulge at 5th bolt - tricky, somewhat confusing and likely harder than grade suggests.

17 R Sport 18m, 6 Unlink route
98 Standing Room Only

Start at "SRO" mark. Hard start to 1st bolt then continues much more easily. 5 RBS to DBB.

16 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
100 Without Council Approval

Start 2m R of 'Standing Room Only'. Follow L-trending line of 5 RBs, finishing at 'SRO' DBB.

16 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
101 Slime Fresh

Start 4m R of 'Standing Room Only'. Marked "SF". Follows the obvious finger crack to top. One of the best trad routes at 'KP'.

16 Trad 18m Unlink route
102 Pentennial Romanticide

Start midway between 'Slime Fresh' & 'David Mac'. Follow line of 5 RBs to DBB.

14 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
103 David Mac

Start 1m L of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "DM". Named after a climber killed on Crookneck. Climb up slinging drill hole, then follow line of 3 RBs to DBB. Originally led as a trad route but has been retrobolted.

15 Mixed 18m, 3 Unlink route
104 Cornflake Crack

Start at the base of the deep crack. Follow the right-tending crack until it runs out then head straight to the top. Minimal protection, especially higher up.

14 R Trad 18m Unlink route

Topo #2189 - Crap area

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Route Grade Popularity Style
79 Slippery When Wet

Start 2m R of 'Tiger's Eye'. Up to very high FH below overhang. Through overhang then past 3 BRs on wall above and top out.

17 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route
80 Wind in the Willows

Start 2m R of 'Slippery When Wet', 4m R of 'Tiger's Eye'. Good climbing but beware the run out to the 2nd bolt. 5 BRs. No DBB so top out required.

15 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
82 Crap

Start 2m R of 'Wind in the Willows'. Marked "C". Decent beginner lead well-protected by 6 BRs. Top out.

14 Sport 18m, 6 Unlink route

Topo #2190 - Insomnia area

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Route Grade Popularity Style
85 Untouched

Start 1m R of 'Razor'. Marked "UN". Follow line of 2 BRs, then a FH, then another BR. Top out.

16 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route
86 Dirty Situations

Start 2m R of 'Untouched'. Marked "DS". Up past 2 BRs to overhang. Reach out and clip fixed carabiner on lip of overhang. Mantle then up easily past another BR and top out.

16 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route
89 Insomnia

Start 2m R of 'Dirty Situations'. Marked "I". Way too runout as a sport route so take trad gear. For example, potential big groundfall before 3rd bolt can be protected with a small cam such as a C3. 4 RBs and DBB.

15 Mixed 18m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #2191 - Stephen's Eyeful Tower area

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Route Grade Popularity Style
94 Stephen's Eyeful Tower

Start 1m L of 'Bottle Stopper'. Up past 5 BRs and top out.

14 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #2096 - Standing Room Only area

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Route Grade Popularity Style
95 Bottle Stopper

Start at "BS" mark. Nice easy sport lead. 4 RBs & DBB.

15 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route
96 Street Ruffians

Start 1.5m R of 'Bottle Stopper'. Marked "SR". Trad route with some BRs. Probably harder than grade suggests.

15 Mixed 18m, 3 Unlink route
97 Slow Cure

Start 2m L of 'Standing Room Only'. Up past 5 RBs to ledge at 2/3 height. Finish up 'SRO', clipping its last RB before reaching shared DBB. Crux is getting over bulge at 5th bolt - tricky, somewhat confusing and likely harder than grade suggests.

17 R Sport 18m, 6 Unlink route
98 Standing Room Only

Start at "SRO" mark. Hard start to 1st bolt then continues much more easily. 5 RBS to DBB.

16 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
100 Without Council Approval

Start 2m R of 'Standing Room Only'. Follow L-trending line of 5 RBs, finishing at 'SRO' DBB.

16 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #2095 - Cornflake Crack area

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Route Grade Popularity Style
101 Slime Fresh

Start 4m R of 'Standing Room Only'. Marked "SF". Follows the obvious finger crack to top. One of the best trad routes at 'KP'.

16 Trad 18m Unlink route
102 Pentennial Romanticide

Start midway between 'Slime Fresh' & 'David Mac'. Follow line of 5 RBs to DBB.

14 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
103 David Mac

Start 1m L of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "DM". Named after a climber killed on Crookneck. Climb up slinging drill hole, then follow line of 3 RBs to DBB. Originally led as a trad route but has been retrobolted.

15 Mixed 18m, 3 Unlink route
104 Cornflake Crack

Start at the base of the deep crack. Follow the right-tending crack until it runs out then head straight to the top. Minimal protection, especially higher up.

14 R Trad 18m Unlink route

Topo #1304

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Route Grade Popularity Style
104 Cornflake Crack

Start at the base of the deep crack. Follow the right-tending crack until it runs out then head straight to the top. Minimal protection, especially higher up.

14 R Trad 18m Unlink route
106 Smog

Start 3m R of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "S".

14 Trad 18m Unlink route
107 The Hyena's Heinie (Variant Start)

Start 2m L of the usual 'The Hyena's Heinie' start. An alternate start to 'The Hyena's Heinie' which makes it very slightly harder. Up steep blocky arete past 2 RBs before joining the usual line at its 3rd bolt.

14 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
108 The Hyena's Heinie

Start 2m L of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI"). Up past 5 RBs to DBB. Was known as "MB" before being bolted.

13 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
110 The Lemur's Femur

Start at the faint "SI" mark. Up past 6 RBs to DBB. Was known as "SI" before being bolted.

14 Sport 18m, 6 Unlink route
112 The Bee's Knees

Start 3m R of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI"). Up past 5 RBs to ledge, then L to DBB.

16 Sport 16m, 5 Unlink route
113 The Duck's Nuts

Start 1.5m L of 'Date Anatomy'. Climb past 5 RBs then mantle awkwardly onto ledge and finish at DBB shared with 'Date Anatomy'.

14 Sport 16m, 5 Unlink route
115 Date Anatomy

Start at the "DA" mark. Great beginner lead. Up arete following 4 RBs to DBB.

12 Sport 16m, 4 Unlink route
117 * Dinosaur

Start 2m R of 'Date Anatomy'. Easy climbing past 5 FHs then crux dyno move over big overhang. Straying R at the overhang onto 'Ring Around the Moon' makes it much much easier.

23 Sport 15m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #2276 - The Hyena's Heinie area

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Route Grade Popularity Style
106 Smog

Start 3m R of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "S".

14 Trad 18m Unlink route
107 The Hyena's Heinie (Variant Start)

Start 2m L of the usual 'The Hyena's Heinie' start. An alternate start to 'The Hyena's Heinie' which makes it very slightly harder. Up steep blocky arete past 2 RBs before joining the usual line at its 3rd bolt.

14 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
108 The Hyena's Heinie

Start 2m L of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI"). Up past 5 RBs to DBB. Was known as "MB" before being bolted.

13 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #2275 - Date Anatomy area

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Route Grade Popularity Style
110 The Lemur's Femur

Start at the faint "SI" mark. Up past 6 RBs to DBB. Was known as "SI" before being bolted.

14 Sport 18m, 6 Unlink route
112 The Bee's Knees

Start 3m R of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI"). Up past 5 RBs to ledge, then L to DBB.

16 Sport 16m, 5 Unlink route
113 The Duck's Nuts

Start 1.5m L of 'Date Anatomy'. Climb past 5 RBs then mantle awkwardly onto ledge and finish at DBB shared with 'Date Anatomy'.

14 Sport 16m, 5 Unlink route
115 Date Anatomy

Start at the "DA" mark. Great beginner lead. Up arete following 4 RBs to DBB.

12 Sport 16m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #2200 - MOBS & FOBS area

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Route Grade Popularity Style
125 * Blue Veined Custard Shooter

Start at crack 2m R of 'Arrow'. Good climbing but very bold on lead. Up crack then push past overhang to ledge. Finish up unprotected wall.

20 Trad 18m Unlink route
126 Valve Replacement Technicians

Start 2m L of 'FOBS'. 6 RBs. Shares final RB & DBB with 'FOBS'.

20 Sport 18m, 6 Unlink route
128 * Far Out Brussel Sprout

Start at the "FOBS" mark. Hard overhung start then more easily up past 6 RBs to DBB.

20 Sport 13m, 6 Unlink route
129 * Move Over Brussel Sprout

Start at the "MOBS" mark, 2m R of 'FOBS'. Bouldery start and a little bit run out. Make sure to tend L after 4th bolt. 4 FHs plus an optional BR to protect the awkward reach back to clip the DBB.

20 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #2201 - That Boy Needs Therapy area

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Route Grade Popularity Style
129 * Move Over Brussel Sprout

Start at the "MOBS" mark, 2m R of 'FOBS'. Bouldery start and a little bit run out. Make sure to tend L after 4th bolt. 4 FHs plus an optional BR to protect the awkward reach back to clip the DBB.

20 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route
130 Mr Plow

Start 2m R of 'MOBS'. Looks just like a sport route until you realise how runout it is between the 3rd & 4th bolts and start wishing you'd brought some trad gear. 5 FHs & DBB.

19 R Mixed 18m, 5 Unlink route
131 That Boy Needs Therapy.

Start 5m R of 'MOBS'. A popular beginner lead that gets harder as you go up. 4 RBs and DBB.

14 Sport 15m, 4 Unlink route
133 Manacubus

Start 1m R of 'That Boy Needs Therapy', 3m L of 'Plunging for Mudbunnies'. Up past 2 BRs then clip fixed carabiner at lip of overhang. Mantle onto ledge with DBB.

19 Sport 16m, 3 Unlink route

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