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Description

It's rare to be at 'Kangaroo Point' and not see at least one person bouldering their way along the base of the cliff. Much less common is seeing someone bouldering with any degree of intent beyond working on their finger strength while their mates are too busy to climb. The reason for this is that, well, 'KP' just isn't that great for bouldering. But of course, no cliff could be climbed by so many without someone coming up with some boulder problems and to be fair, there are a few decent ones scattered around.

Other places to boulder in 'Brisbane' include 'Toohey Forest' and 'Springwood Conservation Park'.

Access issues inherited from Kangaroo Point

The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.

Ethic inherited from Kangaroo Point

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Superclassic!

Start R2, L3, M3, L4, R5, L7, R14, L17, M7, MF6.

M6, L18, R11, M11, R15, M15.

M6, L7, R3, L23, then right hand to big jug just out of picture.

Sit start in the arch shaped feature on 1 and 2. 'Layback' up the finger crack to the jugs above the V.

Start: The crack between the climbs marked SR and SRO.

Like the 'G Dyno', except start on the next under cling to the left.

Sit start using the pocket for your left hand and the toothless under cling for your right. Go right and up without using the low ledge.

Sit start on hold one, without using the low ledge to the left. Use the pocket at 2 to get to pocket at 3.

Sit start at hold 1. Reach up and pinch 4. Head left to pocket at 3.

One of the most least contrived problems on the whole cliff.

Follow numbers from 1 to 9.

Dwarf special?...

Mantle the banned area from a sit start?

M21, R22, M22, R10, M10, R26, M26, R15, M15, R13, L12.

FA: Dan Roe, 2006

R9, L10, R12 (pinch), M12, R22, L23.

Run at the slab and jump to the big jug, mantle onto the ledge.

L5, R16, L using the seam between 23 and 19 (optional), R10, M10.

Campus across the jugs to the left of the "Around the World" problem.

A cool variation of the previous problem.

M20, L22, M22, R10, M10, R26, M26, R14, M14, L12.

FA: Dan Roe, 2007

M6, L7, R15, M15.

Using the undercling just left of FOBS. Using funky feet, deadpoint the little jug above the bulge. If you don't stick it, watch you don't smash your face on the way back down...

Start: To the right of the 'SIN' graffiti

Run up the wall to the jug a couple of feet above the IW marking.

Standing start.

M20, L22, R25, L28.

M6, L18 (undercling), R7, L11, M11.

From Playschool all the way down to More Bolts Than Meters.

One of the best dyno's at the crag.

M1, L5, M5 (gaston), R6, M6

Funky variety of moves.

Follow the numbers to 6 then straight up to 10.

M8, M23

Match the undercling to the left of the CH paint marker. Dyno to the big ledge and mantle onto it.

Starting on the small ledge about 2m left of 'Around The World'. Using only your legs (no hands/leaning). Traverse left around the corner to MOBS. Or do it the opposite way.

Pumpy little circuit.

A bit left of 'Gangbang Wall' is a climb marked "Ex". From a sit start heel hook the big jug and rock on up and over.

Match the holds just right of the CH paint marker. Dyno to the big ledge and mantle onto it.

Run at the face and use the small step/jug below the BARFJ paint marker to dyno to the jug just above the 'O' in the faint LOST graffiti.

Sit start using holds 4 and 6. Straight up to 15.

No starting from mats or kneebars... M6 (arm bars allowed), R30, M30.

Standing start.

Using the side clings on either side, dyno to the jug over the bulge.

Start: To the left of MOBS, left of the 'SIN' graffiti.

The arete behind the fish sculpture.

Sit start 2m right of 'By Ignorance' below 1m high ledge. Chinup, smear and heel hook to stand on top of ledge.

M21, R22, M22, R10, M10.

M6, L18 (undercling), R11, M11, R15, M15.

Boulder the start of 'Chubba Chips Mods'.

Balance up to small holds & dyno to big sharp jug. Traverse R & downclimb to finish.

Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole using only the L side.

Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole.

Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole using only the R side.

Follow the numbers to 14 then rinse and repeat.

Boulder start 'The Rasp', marked "R".

L13, R9, heel hook 9, R17, L16, R22, M22

FA: Roger Bourne, 1984

Watch the polished feet.

Standing start at 'Idiot Wind', directly below the "IW" mark. Couple of tricky moves to reach the jug way up to the L.

Use any of the following hold: 1, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 14, 15, 17 in order to get match 21.

M1, R5, L2, R8, L34 (optional), R30, M30.

FA: D.Comerford/H.Riley, 2006

Boulder up start of 'Chip-a-Holdaway' to ledge.

Boulder start 'Anonymous Arete'.

FA: Gordon Bieske, 1984

Test your stamina and endurance across about 250m of rock. There used to be a fig tree that grew up the cliff at Tigers Stripe.

One of the hardest boulder problems on the cliff.

FA: H.Riley, 2006

FA: Rob Rankin, 1972

FA: H.Riley, 2006

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