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It's rare to be at 'Kangaroo Point' and not see at least one person bouldering their way along the base of the cliff. Much less common is seeing someone bouldering with any degree of intent beyond working on their finger strength while their mates are too busy to climb. The reason for this is that, well, 'KP' just isn't that great for bouldering. But of course, no cliff could be climbed by so many without someone coming up with some boulder problems and to be fair, there are a few decent ones scattered around.
Access issues inherited from Kangaroo Point
The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.
Ethic inherited from Kangaroo Point
Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:
- Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
- Don't ever chip holds.
- Don't paint on any new initials.
- Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)