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Description

It's rare to be at 'Kangaroo Point' and not see at least one person bouldering their way along the base of the cliff. Much less common is seeing someone bouldering with any degree of intent beyond working on their finger strength while their mates are too busy to climb. The reason for this is that, well, 'KP' just isn't that great for bouldering. But of course, no cliff could be climbed by so many without someone coming up with some boulder problems and to be fair, there are a few decent ones scattered around.

Other places to boulder in 'Brisbane' include 'Toohey Forest' and 'Springwood Conservation Park'.

Access issues inherited from Kangaroo Point

The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.

Ethic inherited from Kangaroo Point

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V5 Pocket Puller Boulder 4m
2
V5 *** Movements Boulder

Superclassic!

Start R2, L3, M3, L4, R5, L7, R14, L17, M7, MF6.

3
V2 * Power Gamin Boulder

M6, L18, R11, M11, R15, M15.

4

M6, L7, R3, L23, then right hand to big jug just out of picture.

5
V2 Star Jumps Boulder

Sit start in the arch shaped feature on 1 and 2. 'Layback' up the finger crack to the jugs above the V.

Start: The crack between the climbs marked SR and SRO.

6
V4 * B-Sharp Dyno Boulder

Like the 'G Dyno', except start on the next under cling to the left.

7
V3 * Footloose Boulder

Sit start using the pocket for your left hand and the toothless under cling for your right. Go right and up without using the low ledge.

8
V1 ** Bloody Finger Boulder

Sit start on hold one, without using the low ledge to the left. Use the pocket at 2 to get to pocket at 3.

9
V1 * Pinch me Boulder

Sit start at hold 1. Reach up and pinch 4. Head left to pocket at 3.

10
V7 *** The Fish Problem Boulder

One of the most least contrived problems on the whole cliff.

11
V3 * Gut Busting Boulder

Follow numbers from 1 to 9.

12
V0 Mini Mantle Boulder

Dwarf special?...

Mantle the banned area from a sit start?

13

M21, R22, M22, R10, M10, R26, M26, R15, M15, R13, L12.

FA: Dan Roe, 2006

14

R9, L10, R12 (pinch), M12, R22, L23.

15
V1 * Jump-a-hold-away Boulder

Run at the slab and jump to the big jug, mantle onto the ledge.

16

L5, R16, L using the seam between 23 and 19 (optional), R10, M10.

18
V3 Campus Boulder

Campus across the jugs to the left of the "Around the World" problem.

19

A cool variation of the previous problem.

M20, L22, M22, R10, M10, R26, M26, R14, M14, L12.

FA: Dan Roe, 2007

20
V3 * Bust a Boiler Boulder

M6, L7, R15, M15.

21
V2 Toothless Boulder

Using the undercling just left of FOBS. Using funky feet, deadpoint the little jug above the bulge. If you don't stick it, watch you don't smash your face on the way back down...

Start: To the right of the 'SIN' graffiti

22

Run up the wall to the jug a couple of feet above the IW marking.

23
V2 Popup Boulder

Standing start.

24

M20, L22, R25, L28.

25
V6 Ninja Boner Boulder

M6, L18 (undercling), R7, L11, M11.

26
V7 *** Mega Traverse Boulder

From Playschool all the way down to More Bolts Than Meters.

27
V4 *** Twister Boulder

One of the best dyno's at the crag.

28

M1, L5, M5 (gaston), R6, M6

29

Funky variety of moves.

30
V2 Nut Buster Boulder

Follow the numbers to 6 then straight up to 10.

31
V7 *** The Big Dyno Boulder

M8, M23

32
V5 G Dyno Boulder

Match the undercling to the left of the CH paint marker. Dyno to the big ledge and mantle onto it.

33
V2 Balance Problem Boulder

Starting on the small ledge about 2m left of 'Around The World'. Using only your legs (no hands/leaning). Traverse left around the corner to MOBS. Or do it the opposite way.

34
V3 ** Pumpalicious Boulder

Pumpy little circuit.

35
V0 Heel Hook Boulder

A bit left of 'Gangbang Wall' is a climb marked "Ex". From a sit start heel hook the big jug and rock on up and over.

36
V6 Anti Slab Boulder

Match the holds just right of the CH paint marker. Dyno to the big ledge and mantle onto it.

37

Run at the face and use the small step/jug below the BARFJ paint marker to dyno to the jug just above the 'O' in the faint LOST graffiti.

38
V3 Monkeys Boulder

Sit start using holds 4 and 6. Straight up to 15.

39
V3 Gruntologist Boulder

No starting from mats or kneebars... M6 (arm bars allowed), R30, M30.

40
V2 Jump Up Boulder

Standing start.

41

Using the side clings on either side, dyno to the jug over the bulge.

Start: To the left of MOBS, left of the 'SIN' graffiti.

42
V3 Fish Tail Boulder

The arete behind the fish sculpture.

43
V0 Big heel hook Boulder

Sit start 2m right of 'By Ignorance' below 1m high ledge. Chinup, smear and heel hook to stand on top of ledge.

44
V3 * Split my Sides Boulder

M21, R22, M22, R10, M10.

45
V5 * Power Gambit Boulder

M6, L18 (undercling), R11, M11, R15, M15.

46

Boulder the start of 'Chubba Chips Mods'.

Balance up to small holds & dyno to big sharp jug. Traverse R & downclimb to finish.

47
V1 The Bulge Boulder 2m
48
V0 Drill Hole Left Boulder 3m

Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole using only the L side.

49
V1 Drill Hole Boulder 3m

Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole.

50
V0 Drill Hole Right Boulder 3m

Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole using only the R side.

51
V1 Around The World Boulder 4m

Follow the numbers to 14 then rinse and repeat.

52
V3 * The Exterminator Boulder 6m

Boulder start 'The Rasp', marked "R".

L13, R9, heel hook 9, R17, L16, R22, M22

FA: Roger Bourne, 1984

53

Watch the polished feet.

55
V3 ** Idiot Wind Direct Boulder

Standing start at 'Idiot Wind', directly below the "IW" mark. Couple of tricky moves to reach the jug way up to the L.

57

Use any of the following hold: 1, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 14, 15, 17 in order to get match 21.

58

M1, R5, L2, R8, L34 (optional), R30, M30.

59
V2 Slippery Slab Boulder 4m

FA: D.Comerford/H.Riley, 2006

60
V1 Chip-a-Holdaway Start Boulder 2m

Boulder up start of 'Chip-a-Holdaway' to ledge.

61
V0 Fantastic Boulder 5m

Boulder start 'Anonymous Arete'.

FA: Gordon Bieske, 1984

62
V1 * The Big Traverse Boulder 200m

Test your stamina and endurance across about 250m of rock. There used to be a fig tree that grew up the cliff at Tigers Stripe.

63
V3 BARFJ Traverse Boulder 3m
64

One of the hardest boulder problems on the cliff.

65
V6 ** Bufo Marinus Traverse Boulder 4m
66
V2 Rankin's Rape VF Boulder 3m

FA: H.Riley, 2006

67
V0 Rankin's Rape Boulder 4m

FA: Rob Rankin, 1972

68
V1 Cox's Rape Boulder 3m

FA: H.Riley, 2006