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Description:

Start at the first obvious cliff face at the rightmost (southern or Southbank) end of the main cliffs, behind the "Danger" sign. Marked "P".

Balancy and intense slab climbing. Climb R then L up vertical face past 2 RBs. Crimpy moves past 3rd RB lead to a jug and the halfway ledge. From ledge follow 3 RBs up thin slab to top. Railings at top provide easy anchors to rap or belay from. 6 RBs.

Ethic: inherited from Kangaroo Point

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
Tags:

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Paul Hoskins, 1983

Location:  

Long/Lat: 153.032896,-27.480825

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

22 Principal
22(S) ** Kangaroo Point
22(S) ** Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide
22 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 71%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid tired crux sustained tough hard fantastic good great wicked cool nice awesome fall tricky feet face bad rest interesting fingers technical

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