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Description:

Start about 15m or so L of 'Mantlit', 1m L of a yellow fire hydrant marker against the cliff. Marked "G".

More of a very runout sport climb than a trad route, given there's nowhere to place gear. Climb the series of overhangs clipping as many of the 'Nic Pic Dics' BRs as you can (the first 2 at the very least). Hard & sustained for the grade.

Ethic: inherited from Kangaroo Point

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Evan Bieske & Roger Bourne, 1985

Location:  

Located in Right Main Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 153.033384,-27.480200

Route Grade Citations

17 R Community registered grade
17 Kangaroo Point
17 R ACA Route Register
17 Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 43%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crank crux hard enjoyable scary runout awkward

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