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Description:

Start 3m L of 'Cucumber Castle'. Marked "WF".

A 'KP' classic! Straight up line of 5 RBs to anchors. First RB is high but a bit easier to get to than the first on 'Cucumber Castle'.

Ethic: inherited from Kangaroo Point

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Pickard, 1968

    Aid

  • First Free Ascent: Roger Bourne, 1984

Location:  

Located in Right Main Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 153.033384,-27.480200

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

24 Principal
24 ** Martin Korndoerfer
24(S) *** Kangaroo Point
24 *** *** ACA Route Register
24(S) *** Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 74%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux sustained desperate tough pumped struggle tired strenuous hard super fun nice good amazing great lovely classic awesome fall feet rest fingers hands balancy flake undercling pockets jugs crack

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