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Description:

Start at big "PT" mark.

Nice climbing up past 5 RBs then run it out a bit up easy slab to anchors. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Crux undercling came off winter 2015. The change is pretty minimal but it's probably a bit harder now. Might need upgrading to 19??

Ethic: inherited from Kangaroo Point

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Ted Cais & David Reeve, 1969

  • First Free Ascent: Mick Woodrow & Darren Holloway, 1985

Location:  

Long/Lat: 153.033453,-27.480009

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

18 Community registered grade
18(S) Kangaroo Point
18(S) Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide
18 * * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 54%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

stuffed solid challenging crux difficult hard super fun cool nice perfect good sweet great exciting enjoyable classic scary fall runout tricky committing slippery rest interesting dodgy crimpy balancy easy pinch undercling cruisy bridging jugs crack

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