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Description:

Start 1m R of 'Chip-A-Holdaway'. Marked "A".

The original trad route. Up obvious corner, then on up ledges to corner finish. Average protection can now be supplemented with the RBs on 'Anonymous DS' making it a good beginner trad lead.

Ethic: inherited from Kangaroo Point

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
Tags:

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: David Reeve, 1968

Location:  

Located in Right Main Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 153.033384,-27.480200

Route Grade Citations

14 Community registered grade
14 Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide
14 Chester Ryan
14
16 * * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 46%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

difficult good great fun enjoyable nice runout unprotected tricky face easy crap chossy mantle

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