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Description:© (gremlin)

Start at the "IW' mark.

Quality climbing. The testpiece of its grade at 'Kangaroo Point'. 5 RBs and anchors. There's a ground anchor just R of the base for lead rope soloing.

This route map shows it dodging around the small roof. I lead it direct, doing the nice balancey move as a part of the * experience, and I think others probably did too. (Michael Woodrow)

Ethic: inherited from Kangaroo Point

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
Tags:

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Gordon Bieske & Paul Hoskins, 1984

Location:  

Located in Right Main Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 153.033384,-27.480200

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

21 Community registered grade
21(S) ** Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide
21(S) ** Kangaroo Point
21 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 77%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

stuffed solid crux sustained tough pumped struggle challenging peeled off hard fun cool nice fantastic good sweet amazing great classic superb awesome stoked super beautiful brilliant exciting scary fall tricky committing slippery feet rest reachy polished interesting fingers layback balancy flake easy bad pockets traverse crack

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