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Description:

Start at the R end of Olos slab. Marked "C+M".

Thin moves on slab following 3 BRs then up shallow corner in headwall past 2 BRs to DBB shared with 'Surrender'. Staying true to the route requires staying off both 'The Olos Slab' and the 'Surrender' arete, resulting in a pretty contrived climb.

Ethic: inherited from Kangaroo Point

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
Tags:

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Dave Whitworth & Saul Squires, 1994

Location:  

Located in Left Main Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 153.034342,-27.478173

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

22 Principal
22(S) ** Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide
22 ** ** ACA Route Register
22(S) ** Kangaroo Point

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 51%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux tough hard fun classic tricky easy contrived jugs technical balancy

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