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Access: Bollard closure

The bollard above Brickie's Butt Crack has been deemed to be below standard by Council, and is targeted for upgrade by BCC sometime in 2023.

Untill that time, it is closed for upgrade.

The new stainless steel bollard above Web is now open and approved for use by BCC.

See warning details and discuss

Created about two years ago

Fixed Gear: Upgrade of routes I/P

Hey all, the following routes are seldom, if ever, lead, and are currently being upgraded:

The Stoat Stepped Out

Socketh It Unto Me

The variant finishes of these.

TRing at night is still an option & is safe. Lead climbing is NOT recommended untill the upgrade is complete: the old carrots have been removed.

TRing during the day would interfere with the work being done, so please choose another route to TR from, if climbing during the daytime.

Thursday 11th April + Friday 12th April. Hope to have these upgrades done by Friday.

😎😚

See warning details and discuss

Created 13 days ago - Edited 11 days ago

Fixed Gear: CCM

Chubba Chips Mods has had the bolts removed, pending a rebolt & upgrade.

Perfectly fine for TRing, not for leading atm.

See warning details and discuss

Created 9 days ago

description

Start as for 'Brickie's Butt Crack (Right Finish)', 2m R of 'Web'.

Up following line of 3 BRs. From ledge at 2/3 height, tend L up crack in face (natural pro) then past another BR to DBB. Start is much easier (12) if steps to R are climbed instead of directly up past the bolts.

Top rope access

Route history

Feb 2002First free ascent: ross ferguson & Claudia Ferguson

Warnings

11 Oct 2022 Warning Access: Bollard closure
10 Apr 2024 Warning Fixed Gear: Upgrade of routes I/P
14 Apr 2024 Warning Fixed Gear: CCM

Location

Lat/Lon: -27.47817, 153.03434

Grade citation

18 Assigned grade
12 Mark Gamble
16 [15 - 17] -- grAId
18

ethic

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
inherited from Kangaroo Point

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 51 from 29 ratings.

Tick Types

Comment keywords

good great nice fun enjoyable face jamming crack interesting easy arete challenging difficult

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 24 Apr
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