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Description:

Description added for historical value: 2016 council works have now completely changed this classic route. Obvious arete left of stairs. Start up face (BR) to small ledge. Up loose corner on jugs passing a BR, drill hole sling, then a BR. Reach left around arete to clip BR and swing left and up overhang (crux) to slab (BR). Up this placing a wire in crack to top.

Access Issues: inherited from Kangaroo Point

The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.

Ethic: inherited from Kangaroo Point

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Evan Bieske, Roger Bourne & Andrew Barry, 1984

Location:  

Located in KP North approx:
Lat/Long: -27.475832,153.034778

Route Grade Citations

16 Community registered grade
14 Pocket RockGUIDE: Mt Geryon and The Acropolis and New Climbs
17 * Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide
17 * Kangaroo Point
17 * * ACA Route Register
17 **Michael 'Wonderdog' Woodrow

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 53%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

magic fun exciting classic nice face

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