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Grade Route Style Popularity Crag
Kangaroo Point › KP North (closed)
18 Untitled Route Trad 10m
24 International Man of Mystery Trad 11m
25 Mutant Sea Bass Trad 10m
14 Trash Thrash Trad 14m
18 Dazed and Confused Trad 14m
21 Boys, Bolts and Balls Ups Sport 14m
A1+ Magic Carpet Ride

Contrived.

Aid 14m
22 * Spack Attack

A direct finish was done by Paul Hoskins at about 25. The name was a tribute to Moira who had her leg broken in an accident on Crookneck.

Sport 14m
23 * Raped in a Church Trad 11m
24 ** Tode Mode Trad 11m
20 ** The New Order Sport 11m
23 A Dingo Got My Floater

Contrived.

Trad 11m
23 Gash Flash (Variant Start)

Contrived.

Trad 11m
17 * Gash Flash Trad 11m
16 Return of the Mankhouse Trad 13m
17 Jets Over Jordon Trad 10m
17 Endoplasmic Exterminator (Variant Start) Trad 20m
14 Endoplasmic Exterminator

Mick Woodrow's first FA... ignominious!

Trad 20m
14 M1 Garbage

Possibly the worst excuse for a climb at 'Kangaroo Point'. Neil meerly used this climb as an extended test block for his newly purchased hand-drill and etriers. On the same day he had to rescue a lost student who decided to solo up the white choss to get to TAFE.

Start: A few metres left of big white choss pile.

Aid 25m
24 Foreclosure V Trad 20m
21 Foreclosure of a Dream Trad 20m
19 Forever Gumby Trad 18m
24 Miasma Trad 20m
18 GR Trad 20m
17 EC Trad 20m
19 Suicidal Tendency

Not pretty and not popular. Neil's first ever new route.

Trad 13m
14 A2 Initial Adustment

Simon and Neil intially adjusted about two tonnes of loose rock off this route before roping up for the first ascent. It was top-roped originally at grade 17, ignored for many years (for good reasons) then Neil came back and aided and drilled his way up for practice one afternoon. The remaining hangerless bolts are questionable!

Aid 15m
24 ** Ode to the Lesser Breasted Droopy Nippled Screeching Wood Duck Sport 16m
21 ** Rear Entry Sport 20m
23 *** Fowl Deeds in the Chookhouse Sport 20m
20 * Wallbanger Trad 20m
19 Call the Cops Sport 15m
16 Trolly's Triumph Trad 17m
21 Where's Rocky? Trad 17m
24 Oh Mighty Gumby Trad 17m
21 Lord Gumby Trad 17m
18 Gumby's Demise Trad 17m
14 Bum Full' Pikers V

At the 3rd BR, go right.

Trad 16m
16 * A Bum Full of Fists Trad 20m
Kangaroo Point › Left Main Wall
2 * I Tick Stairs ('cause I'm a Loser)

Just in case you feel the need to tick an ascent of the stone stairs at the L end of 'Left Main Wall'.

Unknown 20m
13 Short Stack

Buried somewhere in the vegetation L of 'Crap Corner'.

Trad 10m
15 Crap Corner

Start 1m L of 'Earth to Stella'.

Probably not an ironic name. Climb up face to crack at L side of the 'ETS' pillar. Follow crack as it widens and tends R to finish at top of pillar. Shares the 'ETS' DBB.

Trad 10m
21 * Earth to Stella

Start at base of 10m pillar, about 5m R of bottom of the stone stairs.

Fun pumpy moves up L face of pillar past 2 BRs. Finish on top of pillar at DBB.

Sport 10m, 2
18 A Quickie Before Dinner

Start 1m R of 'Earth to Stella'.

Straight up R face of the 'ETS' pillar past 2 BRs and finish on top of pillar at the 'ETS' DBB. The bolts are a bit too spaced resulting in a dodgy 2nd clip.

Sport 10m, 2
21 Devined

Start below steep smooth face about 10m R of 'Earth to Stella' pillar.

Climb series of cracks offering good natural pro to finish at DBB. No mantling or escaping R to ledges. Will need to be de-vined again before the next ascent!

Trad 10m
25 More Bolts Than Metres

Start about 15m L of Web.

Consists of two hard moves left of the bolts. Short, contrived boulder problem on rope, would be a boulder route if the landing was better. Up between small flat aprons on thin edges passing 2 RBs and finishing at DBB.

Sport 7m, 2
17 Web

Start about 10m L of 'Olos'. Marked "W".

Trad 20m
18 Brickie's Butt Crack (Left Finish)

Start as for 'Brickie's Butt Crack (Right Finish)', 2m R of 'Web'.

Up following line of 3 BRs. From ledge at 2/3 height, tend L up crack in face (natural pro) to DBB.

Mixed 20m, 3
18 Brickie's Butt Crack (Right Finish)

Start as for 'Brickie's Butt Crack (Left Finish)', 2m R of 'Web'.

Up following line of 3 BRs. From ledge at 2/3 height, step R to base of corner then up this (natural pro) to DBB.

Mixed 20m, 3
12 Brickie's Butt VS-LHF Unknown 20m
12 Brickie's Butt VS-RHF Unknown 20m
23 * Plumber's Bum Trad 20m
20 Snake in the Grass

Start 3m L of 'Olos'. Marked "SG".

Tend R up thin face past high RB to ledge and 2nd RB. Continue up cracked face (small wires) and top out.

Mixed 20m, 2
15 Olos

Eddie Irvine's first lead... hung himself by his gear sling when his foot slipped placing a nut in the layback! LOL

Trad 20m
17 Olos (Variant Start) Trad
19 Olos (Variant Finish)

Start as for 'Olos'.

At halfway, traverse R to meet 'The Olos Slab' at its last bolt and finish as per that climb.

Mixed 20m, 1
26 *** The Olos Slab

Start below large blank slab.

Scramble onto ledge. Climb up slab then headwall following line of 5 RBs (with an optional nut to protect the moves to 1st bolt). Finish at DBB.

Originally led at grade 25 making use of a chipped hold. That hold was filled in 2000, upgrading the climb to 26.

Sport 20m, 5
23 ** The Olos & Crimes Connection

Linkup. Up 'The Olos Slab' to 3rd BR then R to finish up top of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'.

Sport 20m, 5
22 * Crimes and Misdemeanours

Start at the R end of Olos slab. Marked "C+M".

Thin moves on slab following 3 BRs then up shallow corner in headwall past 2 BRs to DBB shared with 'Surrender'. Staying true to the route requires staying off both 'The Olos Slab' and the 'Surrender' arete, resulting in a pretty contrived climb.

Sport 20m, 5
19 ** Surrender

Start at arete 1m R of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'.

Fine and balancy slab climbing that tests the head as much as the feet. A great climb at the grade, but with some potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid. 5 RBs & DBB.

Sport 20m, 5
23 * Sa-raie

Start between 'Surrender' and 'Love Hurts'.

Top rope 18m
23 ** Love Hurts

Start at corner 3m R of 'Surrender', just L of "NUT" mark (it's often confused with 'Nut').

Up corner past 3 RBs then layback the crux to attain ledge. More challenging moves past 2 RBs to finish at DBB.

Sport 20m, 5
19 Nut

Start at the arete 2m R of the 'Love Hurts' corner. Marked "NUT", although the actual start is about 1m R of the mark.

Nice climbing with a fun crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts which is tricky for the grade. 6 (well-camouflaged) RBs & DBB.

Sport 20m, 6
19 Wrath of Grapes (Variant Finish)

Start as for usual 'Wrath of Grapes', 2m R of 'Nut'.

Begin as for usual route but continue straight up arete in top half passing 2 FHs and topping out. Way better than the original route, this is the way to do it!

Sport 20m, 4
17 Wrath of Grapes

Start 2m R of 'Nut'. Marked "WoG".

Straight up past very high BR to halfway ledge and 2nd BR. Scramble R to base of corner. Layback up corner with natural pro to top.

Mixed 20m, 2
22 ** G & M's Climb

Start 4m R of 'Wrath of Grapes'.

Up small ledges to very high BR. Continue past 2nd BR to ledge at half height. On up tough headwall past BR & FH to top.

Mixed 20m, 4
16 Samson's Pillar

Start at crack 3m L of 'Gynaecology'.

Follow manky crack to top.

Trad 20m
22 ** Saul and Dave's Excellent Adventure

Start 2m L of 'Gynaecology'.

Solo up wall to ridiculously high BR. Continue straight up past 2nd BR to ledge. Finish up hard steep wall past BR & FH and top out.

Sport 20m, 4
19 Gynaecology

Start just L of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "G".

Straight up clipping the 2 BRs shared with 'Postmodernist Blues' but keeping to their L. At the halfway ledge step L and climb up corner to top.

Mixed 20m, 2
20 * Postmodernist Blues

Start just R of 'Gynaecology'. Marked "PMB".

Straight up clipping the 2 BRs shared with 'Gynaecology' but keeping to their R. Mantle onto the halfway ledge then up the crack (medium friends) and arete to top.

Mixed 20m, 2
22 ** Lesbian Printshop Workers

Start 2m R of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "LPW".

Follow the L tending line of 5 BRs up nice wall and thin slab. Push through the great crux sequence, placing a #2 wire, and top out.

Mixed 20m, 5
20 Zac the Printshop Worker

Linkup. Start up 'Lesbian Printshop Workers', finish up 'Zac'.

Trad 20m
20 * Zac

Start 2m R of 'Lesbian Printshop Workers'. Faintly marked "Z".

Straight up manky 1st half to ledge, clipping BRs on '32A' and/or 'LPW'. Continue up nice cracked slab and corner with desperate natural pro to top.

Trad 20m
20 * 32A

Start 2m R of 'Zac'. Faintly marked "32A".

Up past 3 BRs to ledge. Up slab then corner with minimal protection and top out to R. Yet another decent climb mostly overlooked because pro is dodgy.

Mixed 20m, 3
20 ** Crossed With No Name V

Start 2m R of '32A'. Faintly marked "WNN".

Up steep wall past 2 very well spaced BRs to under overhang. Traverse L around overhang to ledge. Up slab in top half past 1 (2?) BRs to top. Same formula: good climb + bad bolting = few leads.

Sport 20m, 3
22 * Crossed With No Name

Start as for 'Crossed With No Name V'.

As for 'Crossed With No Name V' but climb directly through the overhang (currently very vegetated).

Sport 20m, 3
19 * Chubba Chips Mods

Start 2m R of 'Crossed With No Name'. Marked "CCM".

Up steep wall past 3 BRs. Run it out to crack with 4th BR to L. Follow crack placing natural pro and top out.

Mixed 20m, 4
21 Robbie's Robust Runners (Direct Start)

Start 2m or so L of the usual route, near "RRR" mark.

Instead of starting up the 'Juice' crack then traversing L, climb straight up the steep face to join the usual route at its 2nd FH. The usual route's 1st FH off to the R may offer some protection for the start, depending on how direct you go.

Sport 20m, 5
16 Robbie's Robust Runners

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.

From ledge above crack follow line of FHs L and up. At 4th FH, step R and mantle into base of cuboidal chimney. Continue up this past final FH. The DBB has been stolen (bastards!) so either top out or traverse awkwardly R to the 'Juice' DBB.

Sport 20m, 5
16 * Robbie's Robust Runners (Variant Finish) Trad 20m
20 * After the Gold Rush

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.

Climb as per 'Juice' to 2nd bolt (1st BR) then continue straight up to climb face between 'Robbie's Robust Runners' chimney on L and 'Juice' corner on R, passing a BR and a FH. Finish at DBB shared with 'Juice'. Very run out between 2nd and 3rd bolts - needs a rebolt?

Sport 18m, 4
20 ** Juice

Start at short crack 3m L of 'Wounded Knee'.

Bouldery moves up crack (somewhat) protected by FH 1m to L. Straight up slabby corner past BR then very long runout up R-tending steps to ledge below corner. Fun moves up corner past 2 BRs to DBB shared with 'After the Gold Rush'. Just barely qualifies as sport - could do with rebolting.

Sport 18m, 4
18 Keyhole Trad 18m
18 * Wounded Knee

Start at the "WK" mark.

Up past 4 BRs then natural pro in second half. DBB.

Mixed 18m, 3
15 * Breakfast At Tiffanys

If you enjoy awkward moves above crap gear than this one's right up your alley.

Trad 23m
21 Burning Fragment

Start as for 'Nightfell'.

A more direct version of 'Nightfell' which goes straight through the overhang rather than skirting around it. 2 FHs, though they provide next to no protection at the crux where the potential for a nasty ledge fall is high. Top rope advised.

Mixed 18m, 2
13 Nightfell

Start 3m R of 'Wounded Knee'. Faintly marked "N".

Up layback to ledge below overhang. Traverse R to avoid overhang, briefly joining 'Mank Mistress', before tending back L above overhang. Continue to top. Run out in parts.

Trad 18m
18 Mank Mistress

Start 2m L of 'Pass the Bosch'.

Well protected sport route with 8 FHs but no DBB - top out required. No nearby bollard for rapping and cleaning either. Belaying up a second is a good option.

Sport 18m, 8
17 * Pass the Bosch

Start 2m L of 'Vegemite'.

Good climb with sustained moves up nice rock. 6 RBs & DBB.

Sport 18m, 6
18 Vegemite

Start at the "V" mark.

Up using BR and natural pro to FH and crux at half height. Traverse R and up past BR to top.

Mixed 18m, 3
21 ** Prickles

Start 2m R of 'Vegemite' below the nice looking overhang.

Excellent sustained climbing with a great crux sequence through the overhang. 5 RBs then 2 FHs and DBB.

Sport 18m, 7
17 * Radioactive Cheerio (Direct)

Start as for original 'Radioactive Cheerio'.

Instead of traversing R at 2nd bolt, climb straight up the headwall past a FH. Continue up cracked pillar with natural pro to top.

Mixed 18m, 3
15 Radioactive Cheerio

Start 2m R of 'Prickles', 2m L of 'Ego'. Faintly marked "RC".

Straight up to BR. Traverse R past BR to mantle move & FH shared with 'Ego'. From here tend L to climb up cracked pillar with natural pro to top.

Mixed 18m, 3
18 Ego (Left Variant)

Start as for original 'Ego'.

Instead of finishing up the slab, climb corner to L with natural pro. Top out.

Mixed 18m, 3
23 * Ego

Start 2m L of 'Silly or Serious'. Marked "EGO".

Up past BR to stance. Place #1 RP then up small corner on L to FH. Step R to face then up past BR to below slab. Thin moves up slab past 2 FHs and top out.

Yet another example of a 'KP' "trad" route that would benefit from being fully bolted.

Mixed 20m, 5
19 Silly or Serious

Start 2m L of 'Halva'. Faintly marked "SOS".

Nondescript bottom section with fun, airy finish. 5 RBs to DBB shared with 'Halva'.

Sport 18m, 5
21 Dream Killer

Traverse. Start at 'Halva'.

Four pitch traverse finishing up 'The Olos Slab'.

Trad 110m
16 ** Halva

Start 2m L of 'Kiwi'. Marked "H".

Brilliant moves all the way to the top. Best grade 16 at the cliff. First bolt is a little high but the moves up to it are solid. 5 FHs to DBB shared with 'Silly or Serious'.

Sport 20m, 5
20 * Kiwi

Start at the "K" mark.

Nice moves through a thin crux sequence. First bolt is very high (hence the "R" rating). 5 FHs & DBB.

Sport 18m, 5
18 Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)

Start as for 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)', 3m R of 'Kiwi'.

Straight up past 3 FHs then head L to BR (a bit run out). Up fun juggy bulge then move R along ledge to arete. Either finish up this past 2 BRs to top or traverse R to DBB on 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)'.

Prior to 2004 this climb started up 'Kiwi' and was known as "Kiwi RHV".

Sport 18m, 6

Showing 1 - 100 out of 368 routes