|Kangaroo Point › KP North (closed)|
|24||International Man of Mystery||11m|
|25||Mutant Sea Bass||10m|
|18||Dazed and Confused||14m|
|21||Boys, Bolts and Balls Ups||14m|
|A1+|| Magic Carpet Ride
|22|| Spack Attack
A direct finish was done by Paul Hoskins at about 25. The name was a tribute to Moira who had her leg broken in an accident on Crookneck.
|23||Raped in a Church||11m|
|20||The New Order||11m|
|23|| A Dingo Got My Floater
|23|| Gash Flash (Variant Start)
|16||Return of the Mankhouse||13m|
|17||Jets Over Jordon||10m|
|17||Endoplasmic Exterminator (Variant Start)||20m|
|14|| Endoplasmic Exterminator
Mick Woodrow's first FA... ignominious!
|14 M1|| Garbage
Possibly the worst excuse for a climb at 'Kangaroo Point'. Neil meerly used this climb as an extended test block for his newly purchased hand-drill and etriers. On the same day he had to rescue a lost student who decided to solo up the white choss to get to TAFE.
Start: A few metres left of big white choss pile.
|21||Foreclosure of a Dream||20m|
|19|| Suicidal Tendency
Not pretty and not popular. Neil's first ever new route.
|14 A2|| Initial Adustment
Simon and Neil intially adjusted about two tonnes of loose rock off this route before roping up for the first ascent. It was top-roped originally at grade 17, ignored for many years (for good reasons) then Neil came back and aided and drilled his way up for practice one afternoon. The remaining hangerless bolts are questionable!
|24||Ode to the Lesser Breasted Droopy Nippled Screeching Wood Duck||16m|
|23||Fowl Deeds in the Chookhouse||20m|
|19||Call the Cops||15m|
|24||Oh Mighty Gumby||17m|
|14|| Bum Full' Pikers V
At the 3rd BR, go right.
|16||A Bum Full of Fists||20m|
|Kangaroo Point › Left Main Wall|
|2|| I Tick Stairs ('cause I'm a Loser)
Just in case you feel the need to tick an ascent of the stone stairs at the L end of 'Left Main Wall'.
|13|| Short Stack
Buried somewhere in the vegetation L of 'Crap Corner'.
|15|| Crap Corner
Start 1m L of 'Earth to Stella'.
Probably not an ironic name. Climb up face to crack at L side of the 'ETS' pillar. Follow crack as it widens and tends R to finish at top of pillar. Shares the 'ETS' DBB.
|21|| Earth to Stella
Start at base of 10m pillar, about 5m R of bottom of the stone stairs.
Fun pumpy moves up L face of pillar past 2 BRs. Finish on top of pillar at DBB.
|18|| A Quickie Before Dinner
Start 1m R of 'Earth to Stella'.
Straight up R face of the 'ETS' pillar past 2 BRs and finish on top of pillar at the 'ETS' DBB. The bolts are a bit too spaced resulting in a dodgy 2nd clip.
Start below steep smooth face about 10m R of 'Earth to Stella' pillar.
Climb series of cracks offering good natural pro to finish at DBB. No mantling or escaping R to ledges. Will need to be de-vined again before the next ascent!
|25|| More Bolts Than Metres
Start about 15m L of Web.
Consists of two hard moves left of the bolts. Short, contrived boulder problem on rope, would be a boulder route if the landing was better. Up between small flat aprons on thin edges passing 2 RBs and finishing at DBB.
Start about 10m L of 'Olos'. Marked "W".
|18|| Brickie's Butt Crack (Left Finish)
Start as for 'Brickie's Butt Crack (Right Finish)', 2m R of 'Web'.
Up following line of 3 BRs. From ledge at 2/3 height, tend L up crack in face (natural pro) to DBB.
|18|| Brickie's Butt Crack (Right Finish)
Start as for 'Brickie's Butt Crack (Left Finish)', 2m R of 'Web'.
Up following line of 3 BRs. From ledge at 2/3 height, step R to base of corner then up this (natural pro) to DBB.
|12||Brickie's Butt VS-LHF||20m|
|12||Brickie's Butt VS-RHF||20m|
|20|| Snake in the Grass
Start 3m L of 'Olos'. Marked "SG".
Tend R up thin face past high RB to ledge and 2nd RB. Continue up cracked face (small wires) and top out.
Eddie Irvine's first lead... hung himself by his gear sling when his foot slipped placing a nut in the layback! LOL
|17||Olos (Variant Start)|
|19|| Olos (Variant Finish)
Start as for 'Olos'.
At halfway, traverse R to meet 'The Olos Slab' at its last bolt and finish as per that climb.
|26|| The Olos Slab
Start below large blank slab.
Scramble onto ledge. Climb up slab then headwall following line of 5 RBs (with an optional nut to protect the moves to 1st bolt). Finish at DBB.
Originally led at grade 25 making use of a chipped hold. That hold was filled in 2000, upgrading the climb to 26.
|23|| The Olos & Crimes Connection
Linkup. Up 'The Olos Slab' to 3rd BR then R to finish up top of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'.
|22|| Crimes and Misdemeanours
Start at the R end of Olos slab. Marked "C+M".
Thin moves on slab following 3 BRs then up shallow corner in headwall past 2 BRs to DBB shared with 'Surrender'. Staying true to the route requires staying off both 'The Olos Slab' and the 'Surrender' arete, resulting in a pretty contrived climb.
Start at arete 1m R of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'.
Fine and balancy slab climbing that tests the head as much as the feet. A great climb at the grade, but with some potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid. 5 RBs & DBB.
Start between 'Surrender' and 'Love Hurts'.
|23|| Love Hurts
Start at corner 3m R of 'Surrender', just L of "NUT" mark (it's often confused with 'Nut').
Up corner past 3 RBs then layback the crux to attain ledge. More challenging moves past 2 RBs to finish at DBB.
Start at the arete 2m R of the 'Love Hurts' corner. Marked "NUT", although the actual start is about 1m R of the mark.
Nice climbing with a fun crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts which is tricky for the grade. 6 (well-camouflaged) RBs & DBB.
|19|| Wrath of Grapes (Variant Finish)
Start as for usual 'Wrath of Grapes', 2m R of 'Nut'.
Begin as for usual route but continue straight up arete in top half passing 2 FHs and topping out. Way better than the original route, this is the way to do it!
|17|| Wrath of Grapes
Start 2m R of 'Nut'. Marked "WoG".
Straight up past very high BR to halfway ledge and 2nd BR. Scramble R to base of corner. Layback up corner with natural pro to top.
|22|| G & M's Climb
Start 4m R of 'Wrath of Grapes'.
Up small ledges to very high BR. Continue past 2nd BR to ledge at half height. On up tough headwall past BR & FH to top.
|16|| Samson's Pillar
Start at crack 3m L of 'Gynaecology'.
Follow manky crack to top.
|22|| Saul and Dave's Excellent Adventure
Start 2m L of 'Gynaecology'.
Solo up wall to ridiculously high BR. Continue straight up past 2nd BR to ledge. Finish up hard steep wall past BR & FH and top out.
Start just L of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "G".
Straight up clipping the 2 BRs shared with 'Postmodernist Blues' but keeping to their L. At the halfway ledge step L and climb up corner to top.
|20|| Postmodernist Blues
Start just R of 'Gynaecology'. Marked "PMB".
Straight up clipping the 2 BRs shared with 'Gynaecology' but keeping to their R. Mantle onto the halfway ledge then up the crack (medium friends) and arete to top.
|22|| Lesbian Printshop Workers
Start 2m R of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "LPW".
Follow the L tending line of 5 BRs up nice wall and thin slab. Push through the great crux sequence, placing a #2 wire, and top out.
|20|| Zac the Printshop Worker
Linkup. Start up 'Lesbian Printshop Workers', finish up 'Zac'.
Start 2m R of 'Lesbian Printshop Workers'. Faintly marked "Z".
Straight up manky 1st half to ledge, clipping BRs on '32A' and/or 'LPW'. Continue up nice cracked slab and corner with desperate natural pro to top.
Start 2m R of 'Zac'. Faintly marked "32A".
Up past 3 BRs to ledge. Up slab then corner with minimal protection and top out to R. Yet another decent climb mostly overlooked because pro is dodgy.
|20|| Crossed With No Name V
Start 2m R of '32A'. Faintly marked "WNN".
Up steep wall past 2 very well spaced BRs to under overhang. Traverse L around overhang to ledge. Up slab in top half past 1 (2?) BRs to top. Same formula: good climb + bad bolting = few leads.
|22|| Crossed With No Name
Start as for 'Crossed With No Name V'.
As for 'Crossed With No Name V' but climb directly through the overhang (currently very vegetated).
|19|| Chubba Chips Mods
Start 2m R of 'Crossed With No Name'. Marked "CCM".
Up steep wall past 3 BRs. Run it out to crack with 4th BR to L. Follow crack placing natural pro and top out.
|21|| Robbie's Robust Runners (Direct Start)
Start 2m or so L of the usual route, near "RRR" mark.
Instead of starting up the 'Juice' crack then traversing L, climb straight up the steep face to join the usual route at its 2nd FH. The usual route's 1st FH off to the R may offer some protection for the start, depending on how direct you go.
|16|| Robbie's Robust Runners
Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.
From ledge above crack follow line of FHs L and up. At 4th FH, step R and mantle into base of cuboidal chimney. Continue up this past final FH. The DBB has been stolen (bastards!) so either top out or traverse awkwardly R to the 'Juice' DBB.
|16||Robbie's Robust Runners (Variant Finish)||20m|
|20|| After the Gold Rush
Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.
Climb as per 'Juice' to 2nd bolt (1st BR) then continue straight up to climb face between 'Robbie's Robust Runners' chimney on L and 'Juice' corner on R, passing a BR and a FH. Finish at DBB shared with 'Juice'. Very run out between 2nd and 3rd bolts - needs a rebolt?
Start at short crack 3m L of 'Wounded Knee'.
Bouldery moves up crack (somewhat) protected by FH 1m to L. Straight up slabby corner past BR then very long runout up R-tending steps to ledge below corner. Fun moves up corner past 2 BRs to DBB shared with 'After the Gold Rush'. Just barely qualifies as sport - could do with rebolting.
|18|| Wounded Knee
Start at the "WK" mark.
Up past 4 BRs then natural pro in second half. DBB.
|15|| Breakfast At Tiffanys
If you enjoy awkward moves above crap gear than this one's right up your alley.
|21|| Burning Fragment
Start as for 'Nightfell'.
A more direct version of 'Nightfell' which goes straight through the overhang rather than skirting around it. 2 FHs, though they provide next to no protection at the crux where the potential for a nasty ledge fall is high. Top rope advised.
Start 3m R of 'Wounded Knee'. Faintly marked "N".
Up layback to ledge below overhang. Traverse R to avoid overhang, briefly joining 'Mank Mistress', before tending back L above overhang. Continue to top. Run out in parts.
|18|| Mank Mistress
Start 2m L of 'Pass the Bosch'.
Well protected sport route with 8 FHs but no DBB - top out required. No nearby bollard for rapping and cleaning either. Belaying up a second is a good option.
|17|| Pass the Bosch
Start 2m L of 'Vegemite'.
Good climb with sustained moves up nice rock. 6 RBs & DBB.
Start at the "V" mark.
Up using BR and natural pro to FH and crux at half height. Traverse R and up past BR to top.
Start 2m R of 'Vegemite' below the nice looking overhang.
Excellent sustained climbing with a great crux sequence through the overhang. 5 RBs then 2 FHs and DBB.
|17|| Radioactive Cheerio (Direct)
Start as for original 'Radioactive Cheerio'.
Instead of traversing R at 2nd bolt, climb straight up the headwall past a FH. Continue up cracked pillar with natural pro to top.
|15|| Radioactive Cheerio
Start 2m R of 'Prickles', 2m L of 'Ego'. Faintly marked "RC".
Straight up to BR. Traverse R past BR to mantle move & FH shared with 'Ego'. From here tend L to climb up cracked pillar with natural pro to top.
|18|| Ego (Left Variant)
Start as for original 'Ego'.
Instead of finishing up the slab, climb corner to L with natural pro. Top out.
Start 2m L of 'Silly or Serious'. Marked "EGO".
Up past BR to stance. Place #1 RP then up small corner on L to FH. Step R to face then up past BR to below slab. Thin moves up slab past 2 FHs and top out.
Yet another example of a 'KP' "trad" route that would benefit from being fully bolted.
|19|| Silly or Serious
Start 2m L of 'Halva'. Faintly marked "SOS".
Nondescript bottom section with fun, airy finish. 5 RBs to DBB shared with 'Halva'.
|21|| Dream Killer
Traverse. Start at 'Halva'.
Four pitch traverse finishing up 'The Olos Slab'.
Start 2m L of 'Kiwi'. Marked "H".
Brilliant moves all the way to the top. Best grade 16 at the cliff. First bolt is a little high but the moves up to it are solid. 5 FHs to DBB shared with 'Silly or Serious'.
Start at the "K" mark.
Nice moves through a thin crux sequence. First bolt is very high (hence the "R" rating). 5 FHs & DBB.
|18|| Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)
Start as for 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)', 3m R of 'Kiwi'.
Straight up past 3 FHs then head L to BR (a bit run out). Up fun juggy bulge then move R along ledge to arete. Either finish up this past 2 BRs to top or traverse R to DBB on 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)'.
Prior to 2004 this climb started up 'Kiwi' and was known as "Kiwi RHV".
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