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Showing 1 - 100 out of 366 routes

Grade Route Style Popularity
KP North (closed)
18 Untitled Route
Trad 10m
24 International Man of Mystery

FA: Chris O'Neill & Peter Stebbins, 1999

Trad 11m
25 Mutant Sea Bass

FA: Peter Stebbins & Chris O'Neill, 1999

Trad 10m
14 Trash Thrash

FA: Jonathon Dwyer & Michael Woodrow

Trad 14m
18 Dazed and Confused

FA: Tony Young & Michael Woodrow

Trad 14m
21 Boys, Bolts and Balls Ups

FA: Richard Henderson & Scott Camps, 1986

Sport 14m
A1+ Magic Carpet Ride

Contrived.

FA: Fraser Chetterton & Matt Tatham, 1996

Aid 14m
22 * Spack Attack

A direct finish was done by Paul Hoskins at about 25. The name was a tribute to Moira who had her leg broken in an accident on Crookneck.

FA: Michael Woodrow & Jonathan Dwyer, 1986

Sport 14m
23 * Raped in a Church

FA: Michael Woodrow & Jonathan Dwyer, 1986

Trad 11m
24 ** Tode Mode

FA: Roger Bourne, 1985

Trad 11m
20 ** The New Order

FA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1993

Sport 11m
23 A Dingo Got My Floater

Contrived.

FA: Roger Bourne, Even Bieske & Andrew Barry, 1984

Trad 11m
23 Gash Flash (Variant Start)

Contrived.

FA: Roger Bourne, 1984

FA: Solo Roger Bourne, 1984

Trad 11m
17 * Gash Flash

FA: Andrew Barry, Roger Bourne & Evan Bieske, 1984

Trad 11m
16 Return of the Mankhouse

FA: Reynold Cope & Paul McAntee, 1986

Trad 13m
17 Jets Over Jordon

FA: Nick Heywood, 1985

Trad 10m
17 Endoplasmic Exterminator (Variant Start)

FA: Darren Holloway & Jonathon Dwyer, 1985

FA: Darren Holloway & Jonathon Dwyer, 1985

Trad 20m
14 Endoplasmic Exterminator

Mick Woodrow's first FA... ignominious!

FA: Michael Woodrow & Eddie Irvine, 1984

Trad 20m
14 M1 Garbage

Possibly the worst excuse for a climb at 'Kangaroo Point'. Neil meerly used this climb as an extended test block for his newly purchased hand-drill and etriers. On the same day he had to rescue a lost student who decided to solo up the white choss to get to TAFE.

Start: A few metres left of big white choss pile.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

Aid 25m
24 Foreclosure V

FA: Unknown ('s), 1980

Trad 20m
21 Foreclosure of a Dream

FA: Neil Monteith & Simon Hennig (toprope), 1993

Trad 20m
19 Forever Gumby

FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 2000

Trad 18m
24 Miasma

FA: Lee Skidmore, 1999

Trad 20m
18 GR

FA: Unknown, 2000

Trad 20m
17 EC

FA: Unknown ('s), 1970

Trad 20m
19 Suicidal Tendency

Not pretty and not popular. Neil's first ever new route.

FA: Neil Monteith & Simon Hennig, 2000

Trad 13m
14 A2 Initial Adustment

Simon and Neil intially adjusted about two tonnes of loose rock off this route before roping up for the first ascent. It was top-roped originally at grade 17, ignored for many years (for good reasons) then Neil came back and aided and drilled his way up for practice one afternoon. The remaining hangerless bolts are questionable!

FA: Neil Monteith (FTRA - Neil Monteith & Simon Hennig -), 1993

Aid 15m
24 ** Ode to the Lesser Breasted Droopy Nippled Screeching Wood Duck

FA: Edwardo Irvine & Darren Holloway ('s), 1988

Sport 16m
21 ** Rear Entry

FA: Andrew Barry & Robbie Allen, 1984

Sport 20m
23 *** Fowl Deeds in the Chookhouse

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

Sport 20m
20 * Wallbanger

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

Trad 20m
19 Call the Cops

FA: Dave Whitworth & Darrin Carter, 1996

Sport 15m
16 Trolly's Triumph

FA: Geoff Baker & Michelle Spuler, 1997

Trad 17m
21 Where's Rocky?

FA: Geoff Baker & Michelle Spuler, 1997

Trad 17m
24 Oh Mighty Gumby

FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 1997

Trad 17m
21 Lord Gumby

FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 1997

Trad 17m
18 Gumby's Demise

FA: Geoff Baker & Steve MacGillivray, 1997

Trad 17m
14 Bum Full' Pikers V

At the 3rd BR, go right.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

Trad 16m
16 * A Bum Full of Fists

FA: Evan Bieske, Roger Bourne & Andrew Barry, 1984

Trad 20m
Left Main Wall
2 * I Tick Stairs ('cause I'm a Loser)

Just in case you feel the need to tick an ascent of the stone stairs at the L end of 'Left Main Wall'.

Unknown 20m
13 Short Stack

Buried somewhere in the vegetation L of 'Crap Corner'.

FA: Matthew Bone & Lara Masselos, 2006

Trad 10m
15 Crap Corner

Start 1m L of 'Earth to Stella'.

Probably not an ironic name. Climb up face to crack at L side of the 'ETS' pillar. Follow crack as it widens and tends R to finish at top of pillar. Shares the 'ETS' DBB.

FFA: Paul Lester, 1996

Trad 10m
Right Main Wall
22 Waterfall

Start as for 'Frontier Psychiatrist'.

Only if it has been dry for weeks. Up 'Frontier Psychiatrist' for first 3 bolts, putting a long runner (1.5m) on the third. Traverse L over choss, clip FH at start of waterfall bulge and up past another FH to anchor on ledge. Use all your ninja skills retrieving your clips.

FA: Alex Combes, Brendan Fraser & Josh Combes, 2006

Sport 15m, 5
16 Frontier Psychiatrist

Start at first line of bolts R of waterfall, 5m L of 'Junket'.

Nice crux start then follow line of 5 RBs just L of the tree to DBB. Relatively shady which is great on hot afternoons but then it does take a while to dry out after rain.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2006

Sport 16m, 5
17 Eddie Goes to Gay Bars P1

Traverse. Start at 'Frontier Psychiatrist'.

An alternate start to the 'Eddie Goes to Gay Bars' traverse which adds an extra pitch. Traverse R from 3rd bolt on 'Frontier Psychiatrist' to 3rd bolt on 'Idiot Wind' to join the usual 'Eddie Goes to Gay Bars'.

FA: Mark Gamble & Michael Woodrow, 2006

Trad 35m
12 Initial Public Offering

Trad line between 'Frontier Psychiatrist' and 'Junket'? Doesn't look great.

FA: Mark Gamble & Dave Duffy, 2007

Trad 22m
21 Junket

Start 2m L of 'Pink Berets'.

Up L-trending line of 5 RBs to anchors. Not great rock and pretty dirty.

FA: Rocky

Sport 17m, 5
21 Violet Berets

Variant finish to 'Pink Berets'. Break left at 3rd bolt, finish at same anchors. Could possibly have another bolt and its own anchors.

FA: Patrick Simon, Andrew Grosser, Fraser Pocknee & Nathaniel Mitchell, 2013

Sport 15m, 4
21 * Pink Berets

Start 2m L of 'Bouncy Castle'.

Up past 2 FHs to break. Overcome loose section past FH to drillhole overhang and final FH. Interesting crux pulling over this to slab and rap station.

FA: Lee Skidmore & Samantha Coles, 2003

Sport 15m, 4
23 Bouncy Castle

Start 2m L of 'Pommy Bastard'.

Follow the line of 4 RBs to DBB. The crux is a difficult onsight but much easier on repeat.

FA: Unknown, 1980

Sport 18m, 4
22 Busted Xylophone

Start as for 'Bouncy Castle'.

First 2 bolts of 'Bouncy Castle' then out R to trad crack. Finish at the 'Bouncy Castle' anchor.

FFA: Unknown, 1980

Mixed 18m, 2
20 Pommy Bastard

Start at the "PB" mark.

Ledges and crap rock in parts but still has some nice moves on it. Well protected and pretty easy for the grade. 5 RBs and DBB.

First ascent was done in drizzling rain with a visiting American climber that washed into Mountain Designs when Mick was working there.

FA: Michael Woodrow & visiting female climber...

Sport 18m, 5
21 * The Rasp

Start 5m R of 'Pommy Bastard'. Marked "R".

Boulder start ('The Exterminator') to very high BR. Past further 3 BRs and finish at 'Dare to Dream' anchors.

FA: Mike Johnston, 1984

Sport 18m, 4
21 Dolerite Dreaming

Start 2m R of 'The Rasp'. Marked "DD".

More or less rebolted as 'Dare to Dream'. Straight up past 2 RBs, then sling the drill hole at 2/3 height. Original route might have continued L to join the final two BRs on 'The Rasp'.

FFA: Gordon Bieske, Richard Marshall & Paul McAntee

Mixed 18m, 4
22 Dare to Dream

Start as for 'Dolerite Dreaming'.

Essentially a rebolt of 'Dolerite Dreaming', maybe with a more direct finish. Up past two RBs and sling the drill hole. Continue straight up past two more RBs, traverse L under the roof and run it out to the anchor.

Set by Steve Kloske, 2013

FFA: Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

Mixed 18m, 4
21 Kass

Start 2m L of 'Bombadil'.

First top roped as 'Kasper' in the '70s at grade 16, the passing decades and a passing Bosch have seen it evolve into a grade 21 sport route. 6 RBs, chains.

A DBB at the 4th bolt allows it to be climbed in 2 (admittedly very short) pitches, great for practicing multipitch skills in a safe environment.

FA: John Webb & Rob Brodribb (top rope), 1975

FFA: Steve Kloske & Adam Gibson, 2013

Sport 18m, 6
17 Bombadil

Start 2m L of 'Tombstone Row'. Marked "B".

A fun, well-protected KP sport route. 5 RBs to DBB.

FFA: Darrin Carter, Chris Poole & Mark Poole, 2002

Sport 18m, 5
17 SHC

Old trad route starting where 'Bombadil' is now.

FA: Michael Woodrow & Darren Holloway, 1984

Trad 18m
16 Tombstone Row

Start 5m L of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TR".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. A more direct finish was added when it was retrobolted, increasing the grade from 15 to 16.

FFA: David Reeve, 1968

Sport 18m, 5
21 ** Idiot Wind DS

Start straight up wall L of usual 'Idiot Wind'. Consider using some trad gear. Rejoins the original at its 2nd bolt.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1983

Sport 18m, 4
21 * Alien Sex Fiend

Start as for 'Idiot Wind'.

At the 3rd bolt on 'Idiot Wind' head straight up the headwall L of the 'Idiot Wind' flake past 2 BRs. The 2nd is a desperate clip in the Mark Moorhead tradition, involving a thin crimp or a long reach to get to the bolt. Finish at the 'Idiot Wind' DBB.

FFA: Michael Woodrow & Darren Holloway, 1986

Sport 18m, 5
21 *** Idiot Wind

Start at the "IW' mark.

Quality climbing. The testpiece of its grade at 'Kangaroo Point'. 5 RBs and anchors. There's a ground anchor just R of the base for lead rope soloing.

This route map shows it dodging around the small roof. I lead it direct, doing the nice balancey move as a part of the * experience, and I think others probably did too. (Michael Woodrow)

FFA: Gordon Bieske & Paul Hoskins, 1984

Sport 18m, 5
20 * Eddie Goes to Gay Bars

Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.

  1. 20m (17) Up 'Idiot Wind' to 2nd bolt. Traverse R to belay on 'Hanger Wall'.

  2. 15m (20) Traverse R on high line of 'Hanger Wall' to belay on 'Chip-a-Holdaway'.

  3. 15m (12) Across to belay on last bolt of 'Euthanasia'.

FA:

Trad 50m 3
22 * Sounds of Silence

Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.

  1. 21m (17) Up 'Idiot Wind' to roof then traverse R and down to belay below 'Nic Chips Diffs' headwall.

  2. 9m (17) Across 'Exhilarant' to belay on 'Gangbang Wall'.

  3. 11m (20) Across to natural pro belay on 8m high ledge on 'Anonymous'.

  4. 13m (17) To halfway ledge on 'Pterodactyl'.

  5. 14m (22) To 'Moonlight Fantasia' ledge.

  6. 20m (22) Finish up 'Adam's Rib'.

FA: 1983

Trad 88m 6
21 * The Stoats Stepped Out

Start 2m R of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TSSO".

Clip the 1st RB on 'Idiot Wind' then head straight up the face past 3 BRs. Finish on a great sequence past a FH to the top. Be careful clipping the 2nd bolt because a groundfall is possible.

FFA: Darren Holloway & Michael Woodrow, 1985

Sport 18m, 5
18 Socketh It Unto Me V

Moira and I cleaned up both of the variants and the main route on the same weekend in 1985.

FFA: Mick Woodrow & Moira Blom, 1985

Trad 18m
19 Socketh It Unto Me VF

Moira and I cleaned up both of the variants and the main route on the same weekend in 1985.

FA: Ted Cais & Rick White, 1969

FFA: Mick Woodrow & Moira Blom, 1985

Trad 18m
18 Socketh It Unto Me

Start 2m R of 'The Stoats Stepped Out'. Faintly marked "S".

Layback up corner and reach L to clip BR. Through the crux and finish up the cracked face just L of 'Mission Impossible'. Committing.

FFA: Michael Woodrow & Moira Bloom, 1985

Mixed 18m, 1
17 Mission Impossible

Start just L of 'Another Girl Another Planet'. Marked "MI".

Straight up cracked corner past deep hole in rock to top. Run out on lead. Soloed on first free ascent.

FA: Ted Cais & Rick White, 1969

FFA: Gordon Bieske, 1985

Trad 18m
19 * Mission Impossible VF

Start as for 'Mission Impossible'.

Traverse R at the ledge above the deep hole and finish up slab as for 'Another Girl Another Planet'.

FA: Michael Woodrow & Moira Blom

Mixed 18m, 1
21 Another Girl Another Planet

Start just R of 'Mission Impossible'. Marked "AGAP".

Up the broken rock to ledge and very high RB. Head L through nice crux sequence up R side of 'Mission Impossible' arete to 2nd RB (don't fall, odds are you'll hit the ledge). Mantle up to slab then edge up past RB shared with '42 Wheels' to top. Seldom repeated on lead.

"Did the first ascent of this when bolting was a very sensitive issue. I had been heavily criticised for bolting 'Hanger Wall Arete' (instead of putting a wire in the crux pocket/crack to protect that move!), particularly by Evan Beiske if memory serves... anyway, AGAP was my response. Please note it was pretty bold as it didn't have a bolt protecting the crux, just a small, thin piton facing downwards! LOL... Evan whimpered on repeat and lowered onto the piton in horror when he couldn't do the move... :-0" (Mick Woodrow)

FFA: Michael Woodrow & Eddie Irvine, 1986

Sport 18m, 3
24 * 42 Wheels

Start just R of 'Another Girl Another Planet'. Faintly marked "42W".

Easy start over dodgy rock (watch the wasp nest) to ledge and very high RB. Up face past RB on bulge to slab. Finish up slab past RB shared with 'AGAP' to top.

"After establishing this route and 'PITG', with nights of top rope rehearsal, I saw Paul Hoskins down at Roo Point on a Saturday morning. Puffed my chest out and told Paul about the routes... he repeated both, onsight, with a combined elapsed time of about 45 seconds..." (Mick Woodrow)

Named after a song by Hunters & Collectors.

FFA: Michael Woodrow & Paul Lawrence, 1986

Sport 18m, 3
24 * Nic Chips Diffs

Start 1m L of 'Dysentery'.

Climb easy wall to very high BR then up sharp arete to 2nd BR under triangular roof. Swing L to huge jug and FH. Then up steep face past BR to slab. Up slab past BR and FH to the DBB shared wth 'Dysentery'. The first 2 RBs on 'Dysentery' can be clipped to protect the start.

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1983

Sport 18m, 6
19 ** Dysentery DF

Start as for 'Dysentery'.

A slight variant to 'Dysentery'[12213427] which makes it a bit harder and more runout. After the 3rd RB head straight up the steeper part of the headwall, skipping the usual 4th RB. Rejoin the original line at its 5th RB. Best done on top rope.

FFA: Rob Whannell, 1985

Sport 18m, 5
17 * Dysentery

Start at "D" mark.

Up past 3 RBs then steeper moves R past 4th RB. Trend gently L onto slab and up past a RB and a FH to anchor shared with 'Nic Chips Diffs'.

FA: Gordon Bieske, 1984

Sport 18m, 6
19 * Dysentery RHF

Start as for 'Dysentery'[12213427], marked "D".

At the 4th RB on 'Dysentery'[12213427] veer R then up over roof, clipping 2 further RBs. Up slab above to DBB.

FA: Rob Whannell, 1985

Sport 18m, 6
19 Bubonic Man

Start 1m R of 'Dysentery'. Marked "BM".

Up past 2 BRs to 'Dysentery RHF' roof. Up over this and up slab to DBB.

FFA: David Whitworth & Michael Long, 1994

Mixed 18m, 4
19 Bridal Party

Start at 'Wedding Crashers'.

Old school climb which traverses L and R to find line of least resistance. Finishes up 'Exhilarant'.

FFA: Rob & Cath Whannell, 1985

Trad 18m
21 * Wedding Crashers

Start 3m R of 'Dysentery'.

Effectively bolts the way 'Bridal Party' was top roped for a few decades. Up easy slab to ledge and RB. Nice moves up steep face past 2nd RB to jug and 3rd RB. Mantle onto ledge and continue more easily past 2 RBs to DBB.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2006

Sport 18m, 5
20 Stemming the Void

Start as for 'Exhilarant'.

Clip the BR in the middle of the steep face on the L part way up 'Exhilarant'. Bridge L to ledges then straight up past 2 further BRs to top out.

FFA: Andrew Smith, 1989

Mixed 18m, 3
17 * Exhilarant

Start up big corner 2m L of 'Hanger Wall Arete'. Marked "Ex".

Up the corner then finish up slab. Upgraded from the original grade of 16 by consensus.

FFA: Rick White, 1969

Trad 18m
22 * Hanger Wall Arete

Start on arete 1m R of 'Exhilarant', 1m L of 'Gangbang Wall'.

Steep and balancy climbing, 'HWA' takes balance and commitment, while 'GBW' takes crimp strength and brawn. This route is great for climbers who lack the strength to crank through its neighbour, also fun for sandbagging musclebound tough-guys who have no technique.

Up arete clipping 1st 3 FHs shared with 'GBW'. Continue up arete above horizontal seam past further 3 FHs. Finish up easy slab to DBB shared with 'GBW' and 'Hanger Wall', optionally clipping 1 or 2 of the 'HW'[12212749] BRs.

FFA: Michael Woodrow & Darren Holloway, 1985

Sport 18m, 6
23 ** Gangbang Wall

Start 2m R of 'Exhilarant'. Marked "GBW".

Steep cranking on quality sequence (of dubious origin). Up thin slab to L clipping 2 FHs shared with 'Hanger Wall Arete' to 3rd FH at horizontal seam. Head slightly R then straight up headwall past 2 further FHs. Finish up easy slab clipping BRs on 'Hanger Wall' if desired to DBB shared with 'HWA' and 'HW'[12212749].

FFA: Andrew Barry & Roger Bourne, 1984

Sport 18m, 5
23 * Gangbang Wall DS

Start at 'Gangbang Wall', marked "GBW".

Head straight up the face instead of L, clipping the high FH. Rejoins the original 'GBW' when that line traverses in from the L at the horizontal seam.

FA: Paul Hoskins, 1982

Sport 18m, 3
23 *** Bitter Gang Bang

Linkup. Climb past the crux of 'Gangbang Wall', then traverse R across 'Hanger Wall' and past 2 FHs to the 'Brisbane Bitter' anchors.

Sport 18m, 8
18 A1 Hanger Wall

Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall'.

A bolt ladder aid climb up a line of about 15 BRs. Paul Hoskins "freed" this with the use of a bolted on street sign at grade 25. The last problem at 'KP' waiting to be truly freed.

FA: Ted Cais, 1968

Aid 18m, 15
24 ** Brisbane Bitter VS

Start at 'Hanger Wall', 1m L of usual 'Brisbane Bitter' start.

Climb past first 5 BRs on 'Hanger Wall' clipping 2 or 3, then join the usual 'Brisbane Bitter' line at its 2nd RB.

Sport 18m, 6
24 *** Brisbane Bitter

Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall', 2m L of 'XXXX'. Marked "BB".

Boulder start to RB then up nice seam past 4 more RBs to anchors. Hard finish.

FFA: Paul Hoskins, 1983

Sport 18m, 5
25 ** XXXX

Start 2m R of 'Brisbane Bitter', 1m L of 'Chip-a-Holdaway'. Marked "FX".

Solo up drillhole to very high RB. Up face past FH and RB, then pass the dyno crux to clip the final RB. Slightly R to DBB shared with 'Chip-a-Holdaway'.

FFA: Chris Frost, 1985

Sport 18m, 4
25 * Chippers-XXXX Link

Linkup. Avoids solo start to 'XXXX'. Climb to 2nd bolt on 'Chip-a-Holdaway' then step L to original 'XXXX' line.

FA: Alex Combes

Sport 18m, 6
22 *** Chip-A-Holdaway

Start 1m L of 'Anonymous'. Marked "CH".

Fantastic. Boulder start to ledge then up daunting wall on holds that just happen to be right where they're needed. 6 FHs then slightly L to anchors shared with 'XXXX'.

FFA: Andrew Horchner & Steven McMillan, 1998

Sport 18m, 6
14 Anonymous

Start 1m R of 'Chip-A-Holdaway'. Marked "A".

The original trad route. Up obvious corner, then on up ledges to corner finish. Average protection can now be supplemented with the RBs on 'Anonymous DS' making it a good beginner trad lead.

FFA: David Reeve, 1968

Trad 20m
16 Anonymous DS

Start on blank wall 1m R of 'Anonymous'.

Retrobolted version of the original 'Anonymous' with a more direct start. Balancy climbing up wall past 2 RBs. Then on up corners and ledges finishing either up corner on R or straight up thin moves on face for more of a challenge. 6 RBs and DBB.

Sport 18m, 6
19 Anonymous Arete

Start 2m R of 'Anonymous', 1m R of 'Anonymous DS'.

Up shallow corner, then sharp arete, then ledges to top.

FFA: Saul Squires & David Whitworth, 1992

Trad 18m
16 Bloody Oath Arete

FA: Unknown, 2000

Trad 18m
16 Bloody Oath

Start 2m L of 'Stoat Clips Bolts'. Marked "BO".

FFA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1968

Trad 18m
16 Bloody Oath RHV

FA: Unknown, 2000

Trad 18m
18 Stoat Clips Bolts

Start 2m L of 'PITG'. Marked "SCB".

Follow the zigzag line of 6 RBs to DBB. There's a 7th RB above the anchor if you want to continue up the last section and top out instead.

FFA: Gordon Bieske & Rob Whannell, 1985

Sport 18m, 6
24 ** Punks in the Gin

Start 4m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "PITG".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors.

FFA: Mick Woodrow & Paul Lawrence, 1985

Sport 17m, 5
21 ** Euthanasia

Start 3m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "E".

Up past 3 BRs then R to the 'Pterodactyl' DBB. Run out.

FA: Greg Sheard & Denis Stocks, 1969

FFA: Paul Hoskins & Dave Moss, 1982

Sport 17m, 3

Showing 1 - 100 out of 366 routes