Routes in Kangaroo Point

One of the hardest boulder problems on the cliff.

M8, M23

From Playschool all the way down to More Bolts Than Meters.

One of the most least contrived problems on the whole cliff.

Linkup. Very, very nice. Up 'Bufo Marinus' to the bolt. Traverse left across 'Moonlight Fantasia' and place some protection, then over to the 1st bolt of 'Be A Robot For Jesus'. Do BARFJ's crux, then clip the 2nd bolt on 'Cucumber Castle'. Traverse left across to the 3rd bolt on 'Wages Of Fear' and do its crux. Again traverse left across blankish wall to 'Honed And Buffed' and clip the last 2 bolts of this route to anchors.

Match the holds just right of the CH paint marker. Dyno to the big ledge and mantle onto it.

M6, L18 (undercling), R7, L11, M11.

Start 2m L of 'Gigolo'.

One of the hardest climbs at KP, though it's very cruxy. Follow the line of 3 RBs. Up the blunt arete to the ledge and anchors.

Start at large "BARFJ" mark.

Very sustained. Up smooth face to high RB. Continue past further 4 RBs and slightly R to anchor.

Start below large blank slab.

Scramble onto ledge. Climb up slab then headwall following line of 5 RBs (with an optional nut to protect the moves to 1st bolt). Finish at DBB.

Originally led in the 90s, making use of a slightly enhanced hold. That hold was filled in in 2000, and lead successfully at grade 25.

M6, L18 (undercling), R11, M11

Match the undercling to the left of the CH paint marker. Dyno to the big ledge and mantle onto it.

Superclassic!

Start R2, L3, M3, L4, R5, L7, R14, L17, M7, MF6.

Start as for 'Squawk', 2m L of 'Gobble'. Marked "SQ".

Climb up 'Squawk' until reaching the 2nd RB. From here go L up the improbable-looking face clipping the 3rd RB on the way to the top. Crimpy.

Start route directly under the one and only bolt on very small crimps. Extremely thin crimping up blank face. Finishes on small ledge with DBB.

Start as for 'Bufo Marinus' but continue up to the L of the small ledge with anchors, finishing at the 'Moonlight Fantasia' ledge instead.

Linkup. Up 'Honed and Buffed' to the first bolt, tricky crimp traverse to the 2nd bolt on 'Wages Of Fear'. Then crap yourself over to the 2nd bolt on 'Cucumber Castle'. Keep traversing over to the bolt at the bulge of 'Be A Robot For Jesus' then pull the bulge crux and finish up 'BARFJ'. Pretty fun.

Linkup. Avoids solo start to 'XXXX'. Climb to 2nd bolt on 'Chip-a-Holdaway' then step L to original 'XXXX' line.

Start about 15m L of Web.

Consists of two hard moves left of the bolts. Short, contrived boulder problem on rope, would be a boulder route if the landing was better. Up between small flat aprons on thin edges passing 2 RBs and finishing at DBB.

Historic route description included here for posterity. This route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: just Left of Trash Thrash. Up face to overhanging bulge. Through this with difficulty to top.

Start 2m R of 'Brisbane Bitter', 1m L of 'Chip-a-Holdaway'. Marked "FX".

Solo up drillhole to very high RB. Up face past FH and RB, then pass the dyno crux to clip the final RB. Slightly R to DBB shared with 'Chip-a-Holdaway'.

Start 1m R of 'Dollarman'. Has the piranha at half height.

Hard start past the 1st FH to the slot that forms the piranha's mouth. Clip the 2nd FH. From here the original route tended L to continue up the 'Adam's Rib' arete but the 3rd bolt on 'Pocket Calculator' now leads you R and up to their shared DBB. 3 FHs.

Start 2m R of 'Adam's Rib', where the "$♂" (dollar-man, get it?!) is painted about 4m off the ground.

Up the hard slots (wires) then finish up the 'Adam's Rib' arete.

Essentially Sinister Pathway lite. Climb CC to second bolt, traverses left to the second bolt on Wages, pull its crux, then traverse left at the break to finish up Honed. Fun!

Linkup. First part 'Cucumber Castle', second part 'Wages Of Fear'.

Start 3m L of 'Cucumber Castle'. Marked "WF".

A 'KP' classic! Straight up line of 5 RBs to anchors. First RB is high but a bit easier to get to than the first on 'Cucumber Castle'.

Variant finish to 'Wages Of Fear'. Climb usual route until 4th RB at break. From here head up and left past 1 RB, finishing at 'Honed And Buffed' anchors.

Sustained crimping until final awkward move. It's possible to go straight up and then do an awkward traverse but not as nice.

Variant finish to 'Honed And Buffed'. Climb usual route to third bolt. Then head up and right, clipping either the 3rd bolt of 'HAB' or the 4th of 'Wages Of Fear', or placing a cam in the break. Clip the last bolt of 'Close But No Cigar' and head straight up to the 'WOF' anchors.

Start 1m L of 'Wages Of Fear'. Marked "HBu".

Up crap rock at start to high RB. Run it out to 2nd RB, then up slab past 2 further RBs to anchor. Crap start, nice middle and finish. Quite runout using just bolts but has good placements for wires.

Start 4m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "PITG".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors.

Start 1m L of 'Anonymous' on right blank face of large ledge beneath high first FH.

Fantastic. Boulder start to ledge then up daunting wall on holds that just happen to be right where they're needed. 6 FHs then slightly L to anchors shared with 'XXXX'.

The route got its name when the pockets on the steep wall were created by chipping away the rock before the first ascent. Originally named Chip a Holloway after Darryn Holloway who chipped the pockets.

Described in the guidebook as a tough 22 10 years ago... this was before the crux hold broke off.

Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall', 2m L of 'XXXX'. Marked "BB".

Boulder start to RB then up nice seam past 4 more RBs to anchors. Hard finish.

Very cruxy.

Start at 'Hanger Wall', 1m L of usual 'Brisbane Bitter' start.

Climb past first 5 BRs on 'Hanger Wall' clipping 2 or 3, then join the usual 'Brisbane Bitter' line at its 2nd RB.

Start 1m L of 'Dysentery'.

Climb easy wall to very high BR then up sharp arete to 2nd BR under triangular roof. Swing L to huge jug and FH. Then up steep face past BR to slab. Up slab past BR and FH to the DBB shared wth 'Dysentery'. The first 2 RBs on 'Dysentery' can be clipped to protect the start.

Historic route description included here for posterity. This route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: 2m Right of MSB. Up face (no bridging) to ledge. Traverse Right and up through overlap.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: at the MCR initials. Hard and sustained climbing up the chipped pockets past two BR's leads to easier ground and some trad gear, then the top.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: On the blank face, about 6-7m Left of the sharp Gash Flash arete. Very hard edging up face, past a BR, leads to a small ledge. Place pro in crack and crank up to top and chain.

Start: Directly in front of Lightbox #6, 2m Left of GR. Committing start up blank slab to 1st RB, big run-out, but easier ground to next RB, then nice moves follow corner up, passing another RB, then delicately to last RB, layoff & pinch the blunt arete & bridge up to chains.

Start: Slightly left of Light Box #11, 2m left of Rear Entry.

Climb the thin, broken face to RB, & up the thin slab to the next RB & a good hold. Blast slightly left up the thin face (crux) to next RB below small overlap & up to next RB & big hold. Finish over small roof to chain. Short climb but a long name! This route tends to weep after rain.

Good, continuous climbing.

Start: At the broken face, about 2m left of Lord Gumby. Up the easy blocks to a high first bolt, then very thin moves (crux), to 2nd RB, continue up on blankness & trend left to jug + corner & ledge & 3rd RB, slightly easier climbing up right to 4th RB, follow the corner to 5th RB, up right of overhang to 6th RB, then to chains above right (underneath the tree branch). (Shared with Lord Gumby.) Retrobolted, now with 6 RBs.

Start just R of 'Another Girl Another Planet'. Faintly marked "42W".

Easy start over dodgy rock (watch the wasp nest) to ledge and very high RB. Up face past RB on bulge to slab. Finish up slab past RB shared with 'AGAP' to top.

"After establishing this route and 'PITG', with nights of top rope rehearsal, I saw Paul Hoskins down at Roo Point on a Saturday morning. Puffed my chest out and told Paul about the routes... he repeated both, onsight, with a combined elapsed time of about 45 seconds..." (Mick Woodrow)

Named after a song by Hunters & Collectors.

R6, L18,R7,L10, R12,Match on the shitty slopey hold at the top above #10.

Start matched on big undercling (#16), left hand up to shallow two finger pocket just below #13, M14

Funky variety of moves.

One of the best dyno's at the crag.

Like the 'G Dyno', except start on the next under cling to the left.

Start at marking "NPD".

Up the blank face just R of "Gigolo", avoiding its holds including avoiding any holds on the arête. Follows the line of 4 RBs (that have replaced the original 5 aid bolts) to anchors slightly R of last RB.

Linkup. Up 'Cucumber Castle' to break, finish up last bit of 'BARFJ'.

Start 2m L of 'BARFJ'. Marked "CC".

Classic climb but potential for big falls so make sure you're solid at the grade if leading. Hard start to small ledge and high FH. Follow obvious line past 2nd & 3rd FHs. Above 3rd FH place cam in crack or run it out to 4th FH. Finish at DBB.

Linkup. Climb past the crux of 'Gangbang Wall', then traverse R across 'Hanger Wall' and past 2 FHs to the 'Brisbane Bitter' anchors.

Start 2m R of 'Exhilarant'. Marked "GBW".

Steep cranking on quality sequence (of dubious origin). Up thin slab to L clipping 2 FHs shared with 'Hanger Wall Arete' to 3rd FH at horizontal seam. Head slightly R then straight up headwall past 2 further FHs. Finish up easy slab clipping BRs on 'Hanger Wall' if desired to DBB shared with 'HWA' and 'HW'[12212749].

Start 2m L of 'Pommy Bastard'.

Follow the line of 4 RBs to DBB. The crux is a difficult onsight but much easier on repeat.

Start 2m R of 'Date Anatomy' marked "D".

Easy climbing past 5 FHs then crux dyno move over big overhang. Straying R at the overhang onto 'Ring Around the Moon' makes it much much easier.

Start 2m L of 'Silly or Serious'. Marked "EGO".

Up past BR to stance. Place #1 RP then up small corner on L to FH. Step R to face then up past BR to below slab. Thin moves up slab past 2 FHs and top out.

Yet another example of a 'KP' "trad" route that would benefit from being fully bolted.

Start between 'Surrender' and 'Love Hurts'.

Linkup. Up 'The Olos Slab' to 3rd RB then R to finish up top of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'.

Start 2m L of 'Snake in the Grass'.

Up thin face tending L past 2 RBs to halfway ledge. BRs & a FH in top half, finishes at chains.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: Just Left of Tode Mode. Up wall trending Right past two BR's to Tode Mode's ledge. Finish up Tode Mode's crack to top. A barbed wire fence once existed below this climb making falls a scary proposition!

Historical register: This route now lies on Riverlife property and lies behind it.

More contrived climbing. Climb Gash Flash VS & at the notch, continue up the arete placing gear in the Gash Flash crack.

Historical register: This route now lies on Riverlife property and lies behind it.

Contrived climbing up the thin wall left of the corner, to a notch in the wall at five metres. Traverse right and finish up the original line.

Start: Slightly left of Light Box #12. The smooth face just left of the Wallbanger tree. Hard start protected by an RB. Push over bulge to another RB and up thin face to a 3rd RB, then push on to clip a fourth RB below the overlap and use the hefty undercling to gain the face above. Continue up the thin slab, then easier (but run-out) to 5th RB and chain 2m above. Now rebolted with RBs & new chains. (NB: The new chains eliminate the older, lower chains, used as an alternative ending, making this route now 22m.)

Start 2m L of 'Steaming Wally'. Marked "BDS".

Climb to slab and onward past the single BR to the top. Shiva is the goddess of death and the bird dance refers to an attempt to fly... the FFA hit the ground and was almost killed on this climb.

Climb 'Bird Dance For Shiva' to halfway. Swing L into blank corner with crack. Up crack past piton(!). Finish R at 'Steaming Wally' chains.

Start at 'Gangbang Wall', marked "GBW".

Head straight up the face instead of L, clipping the high FH. Rejoins the original 'GBW' when that line traverses in from the L at the horizontal seam.

One move wonder. Located in the bulge area near Tigers Eye. Sit start. M6, L11, M11. Could be hard V2/easy V3

Start matched on small sloper between #2 and #3 to left of MOBS marking, L5, M6

Start matched on big undercling left of FOBS (#16), L13, M14, R18, L17, R5, L3, M4

Start between 'Moonlight Fantasia' and 'Bufo Marinus' until just below small roof, then join 'Bufo Marinus'.

Start in crack left of CC, finish on jugs above MF.

M1, R5, L2, R8, L34 (optional), R30, M30.

Standing start at 'Idiot Wind', directly below the "IW" mark. Couple of tricky moves to reach the jug way up to the L.

Boulder start 'The Rasp', marked "R".

L13, R9, heel hook 9, R17, L16, R22, M22

M21, R22, M22, R10, M10.

The arete behind the fish sculpture.

Using the side clings on either side, dyno to the jug over the bulge.

Start: To the left of MOBS, left of the 'SIN' graffiti.

No starting from mats or kneebars... M6 (arm bars allowed), R30, M30.

Sit start using holds 4 and 6. Straight up to 15.

Run at the face and use the small step/jug below the BARFJ paint marker to dyno to the jug just above the 'O' in the faint LOST graffiti.

Pumpy little circuit.

M20, L22, R25, L28.

M6, L7, R15, M15.

A cool variation of the previous problem.

M20, L22, M22, R10, M10, R26, M26, R14, M14, L12.

Campus across the jugs to the left of the "Around the World" problem.

R9, L10, R12 (pinch), M12, R22, L23.

M21, R22, M22, R10, M10, R26, M26, R15, M15, R13, L12.

Follow numbers from 1 to 9.

Sit start using the pocket for your left hand and the toothless under cling for your right. Go right and up without using the low ledge.

Start at the first obvious cliff face at the rightmost (southern or Southbank) end of the main cliffs, behind the "Danger" sign. Marked "P".

Balancy and intense slab climbing. Climb R then L up vertical face past 2 RBs. Crimpy moves past 3rd RB lead to a jug and the halfway ledge. From ledge follow 3 RBs up thin slab to top. Large rings up over the lip provide anchors to rap or belay from. 6 RBs.

Start 2m R of 'Pig City'.

Follow the line of 3 left-trending FHs. The crux is mounting the bulge. Shares 3rd FH & chains with 'Pig City'.

Traverse. Start up 'Pocket Calculator' to 3rd bolt, then step left for 365m to finish up at 'The Olos Slab'. A fun day out, but really why would you unless you have a lot of time on your hands?

Start 3m L of 'Adam's Rib'. Marked "G".

Justifiably popular. Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchor shared with 'The Bolting Gestapo'.

Start 2m L of 'Gobble'. Marked "SQ".

Sparsely bolted and therefore less often climbed than it would otherwise be. Up past high RB to 2nd RB at start of headwall. Climb headwall clipping 3rd RB to ledge. Climb the arete on the R to the top.

This is a link-up that crosses Pterodactyl and Honed and Buffed. Climbs the face of Pterodactyl (not either of the aretes) for first 3 bolts. Series of thin and balanced holds. Then step right off the ledge onto the face. 1 small bomber nut in the obvious crack for pro. Then up and across face. Up the last 2 bolts of Honed and Buffed to anchors.

Start on arete 1m R of 'Exhilarant', 1m L of 'Gangbang Wall'.

Steep and balancy climbing, 'HWA' takes balance and commitment, while 'GBW' takes crimp strength and brawn. This route is great for climbers who lack the strength to crank through its neighbour, also fun for sandbagging musclebound tough-guys who have no technique.

Up arete clipping 1st 3 FHs shared with 'GBW'. Continue up arete above horizontal seam past further 3 FHs. Finish up easy slab to DBB shared with 'GBW' and 'Hanger Wall', optionally clipping 1 or 2 of the 'HW'[12212749] BRs.

Start as for 'Dolerite Dreaming'.

Essentially a rebolt of 'Dolerite Dreaming', maybe with a more direct finish. Up past two RBs and sling the drill hole. Continue straight up past two more RBs, traverse L under the roof and run it out to the anchor.