Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Bouldering | |||||
V0 - 1 | MOBS start
L1, R2, L3, R4, R5, M6. | ||||
V0 | ★ FOBS start
R8, L9, R13, M13, R14, M14, L15. | 3m | |||
V4 | Bust out
R6, L18,R7,L10, R12,Match on the shitty slopey hold at the top above #10. | ||||
V2 | ★ Left Main Wall Traverse
Start at Plunging for Mudbunnies (as close to the garden that splits the Left and Right wall as you can) and finish at More Bolts Than Meters. | 180m | |||
V0 | ★★ Bufo to Spider Traverse
Start just right of Bufo Marinus slab and traverse right until you reach Spidermonkey. | 75m | |||
V0 | ★★ Spider to Bufo Traverse
Start at Spider Monkey and work your way left along the base of the cliff until you reach Bufo Marinus. It is easy to tell once you've reached this point as the climbing becomes significantly thinner. | 75m | |||
V0 | Gassed On
Very contrived. Start in the corner between Baby Steps and Breakout, using only palming and gastons, make your way to the top of the groove and finish matched on the jug. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Atension Whore
One move wonder. Located in the bulge area near Tigers Eye. Sit start. M6, L11, M11. Could be hard V2/easy V3 | 1m | |||
V3 | Gastons Of The Galaxy
Start matched on small sloper between #2 and #3 to left of MOBS marking, L5, M6 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Warm Apple Pie
Start matched on big undercling (#16), left hand up to shallow two finger pocket just below #13, M14 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Rib Tickler
Start matched on big undercling left of FOBS (#16), L13, M14, R18, L17, R5, L3, M4 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Cox's Rape
FA: H.Riley, 2006 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Rankin's Rape
FA: Robert Rankin, 1972 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Rankin's Rape VF
FA: H.Riley, 2006 | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Bufo Marinus Traverse
| 4m | |||
★★★ DELETE
DELETE | 8m | ||||
V3 | Bufo Marinus (easy)
Start between 'Moonlight Fantasia' and 'Bufo Marinus' until just below small roof, then join 'Bufo Marinus'. | 8m | |||
V7 | ★ Moonlight Fantasia Traverse
One of the hardest boulder problems on the cliff. | ||||
V3 | ★ BARFJ Traverse
Start in crack left of CC, finish on jugs above MF. | 3m | |||
V2 | BARFJ Sit Start
Sit start on small rail just left/under BARFJ marking. Move up to good rail. Continue up until you reach jug in line with the "B" in BARFJ. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ The Big Traverse
Test your stamina and endurance across about 250m of rock. There used to be a fig tree that grew up the cliff at Tigers Stripe. Start at Moonlight Fantasia and finish just after Tiger Stripe where the Fig tree once lived. | 200m | |||
V0 | Fantastic
Boulder start 'Anonymous Arete'. FA: Gordon Bieske, 1984 | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ Chip-a-Holdaway Start
Boulder up start of 'Chip-a-Holdaway' to ledge. | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Slippery Slab
FA: D.Comerford/H.Riley, 2006 | 4m | |||
V3 | Gangbang Wall (high traverse)
M1, R5, L2, R8, L34 (optional), R30, M30. | ||||
V1 | ★★ Gangbang Wall (low traverse)
Use any of the following hold: 1, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 14, 15, 17 in order to get match 21. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Idiot Wind High Traverse - Right to Left
| 3m | |||
V3 | Idiot Wind Direct
Standing start at 'Idiot Wind', directly below the "IW" mark. Couple of tricky moves to reach the jug way up to the L. | ||||
V1 | CANT DELETE
CANT DELETE FA: 2 Feb 2022 | 50m | |||
V1 | The COVID Route
UQ didn't allow me into their pool this morning.... I was too 'covidish' Went to KP instead. In the carpark, I traversed the wall at about 1.2m. Obeyed the 'No Standing' sign (style points for lateral thought), kissed the disabled sign (you can do this wearing your best mask). Inspect each tree carefully for bats. From here it's choose your own adventure. FA: Frank Evans, 2 Feb 2022 | 50m | |||
V4 | Idiot Wind High Traverse - Left to Right
| 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Idiot Wind Low Traverse
Watch the polished feet. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ The Exterminator
Boulder start 'The Rasp', marked "R". L13, R9, heel hook 9, R17, L16, R22, M22 FA: Roger Bourne, 1984 | 6m | |||
V1 | ★ Around The World
Follow the numbers to 14 then rinse and repeat. | 4m | |||
V0 | Drill Hole Right
Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole using only the R side. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Drill Hole
Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole. | 3m | |||
V0 | Drill Hole Left
Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole using only the L side. | 3m | |||
V1 | The Bulge
| 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Chubba Chips Mods Start
Boulder the start of 'Chubba Chips Mods'. Balance up to small holds & dyno to big sharp jug. Traverse R & downclimb to finish. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Power Gambit
M6, L18 (undercling), R11, M11 | 3m | |||
V3 | Split my Sides
M21, R22, M22, R10, M10. | ||||
V0 | Big heel hook
Sit start 2m right of 'By Ignorance' below 1m high ledge. Chinup, smear and heel hook to stand on top of ledge. | ||||
V3 | Fish Tail
The arete behind the fish sculpture. | ||||
V3 | Ninjas and Hamburgers
Using the side clings on either side, dyno to the jug over the bulge. Start: To the left of MOBS, left of the 'SIN' graffiti. | ||||
V2 | Jump Up
Standing start. | ||||
V3 | Gruntologist
No starting from mats or kneebars... M6 (arm bars allowed), R30, M30. | ||||
V3 | Monkeys
Sit start using holds 4 and 6. Straight up to 15. | ||||
V3 | Dance Like A Robot
Run at the face and use the small step/jug below the BARFJ paint marker to dyno to the jug just above the 'O' in the faint LOST graffiti. | ||||
V6 | Anti Slab
Match the holds just right of the CH paint marker. Dyno to the big ledge and mantle onto it. | ||||
V0 | Heel Hook
A bit left of 'Gangbang Wall' is a climb marked "Ex". From a sit start heel hook the big jug and rock on up and over. | ||||
V3 | Pumpalicious
Pumpy little circuit. | ||||
V2 | ★ Balance Problem
Starting on the small ledge about 2m left of 'Around The World'. Using only your legs (no hands/leaning). Traverse left around the corner to MOBS. Or do it the opposite way. | ||||
V5 | G Dyno
Match the undercling to the left of the CH paint marker. Dyno to the big ledge and mantle onto it. | ||||
V7 | The Big Dyno
M8, M23 | ||||
V2 | Nut Buster
Follow the numbers to 6 then straight up to 10. | ||||
V4 | Drive it like a Volvo
Funky variety of moves. | ||||
V1 | White Girls Can't Hump
M1, L5, M5 (gaston), R6, M6 | ||||
V4 | Twister
One of the best dyno's at the crag. | ||||
V7 | ★★ Mega Traverse
From Playschool all the way down to More Bolts Than Meters. | ||||
V6 | Ninja Boner
M6, L18 (undercling), R7, L11, M11. | ||||
V3 | Mr Pinchy Takes A Bath
M20, L22, R25, L28. | ||||
V2 | Popup
Standing start. | ||||
V2 | Blood on the Tracks
Run up the wall to the sharp jug a couple of feet above and slightly to the right of the IW marking. | 3m | |||
V2 | Toothless
Using the undercling just left of FOBS. Using funky feet, deadpoint the little jug above the bulge. If you don't stick it, watch you don't smash your face on the way back down... Start: To the right of the 'SIN' graffiti | ||||
V3 | ★ Bust a Boiler
M6, L7, R15, M15. | 2m | |||
V3 | Fuck Hip Hop, Wear a Belt
A cool variation of the previous problem. M20, L22, M22, R10, M10, R26, M26, R14, M14, L12. FA: Dan Roe, 2007 | ||||
V3 | ★ Campus
Campus across the jugs to the left of the "Around the World" problem. | 3m | |||
V4 | Shannon and the Cigarette Lighter
| ||||
V2 | Beer for Breakfast
L5, R16, L using the seam between 23 and 19 (optional), R10, M10. | ||||
V1 | ★ Jump-a-hold-away
Run at the slab and jump to the big jug, mantle onto the ledge. | 3m | |||
V3 | Smooth Like A Cow On Roller Skate
R9, L10, R12 (pinch), M12, R22, L23. | ||||
V3 | Seppuku by Big-Bro
M21, R22, M22, R10, M10, R26, M26, R15, M15, R13, L12. FA: Dan Roe, 2006 | ||||
V0 | Mini Mantle
Dwarf special?... Mantle the banned area from a sit start? | ||||
V3 | Gut Busting
Follow numbers from 1 to 9. | ||||
V7 | ★★ The Fish Problem
One of the most least contrived problems on the whole cliff. | ||||
★★ Elm Street
Stand start L hand sidepull/undercling, R hand Sloper around the arete, small block on ledge is ok to use for feet, bring pads. Move up using heels and side-pulls, top-out scary but secure, walk down around the back . next to Riverlife / where the fish problem is. A bit of a highball, v5-v6 but could be quite a bit harder. | 5m | ||||
V1 | Pinch me
Sit start at hold 1. Reach up and pinch 4. Head left to pocket at 3. | ||||
V1 | Bloody Finger
Sit start on hold one, without using the low ledge to the left. Use the pocket at 2 to get to pocket at 3. | ||||
V3 | Footloose
Sit start using the pocket for your left hand and the toothless under cling for your right. Go right and up without using the low ledge. | ||||
V4 | B-Sharp Dyno
Like the 'G Dyno', except start on the next under cling to the left. | ||||
V2 | Star Jumps
Sit start in the arch shaped feature on 1 and 2. 'Layback' up the finger crack to the jugs above the V. Start: The crack between the climbs marked SR and SRO. | ||||
V2 | Thank God I'm Not ...
M6, L7, R3, L23, then right hand to big jug just out of picture. | ||||
V2 | Power Gamin
M6, L18, R11, M11, R15, M15. | ||||
V5 | ★★ Movements
Superclassic! Start R2, L3, M3, L4, R5, L7, R14, L17, M7, MF6. | 4m | |||
V5 | Pocket Puller
| 4m | |||
Nursery Cliffs | |||||
14 | Climb Seventeen
Pure Choss. Rack your gardening tools. FFA: Alexander Xavier, 4 Aug 2019 | 10m | |||
14 | ★ Climb Sixteen
Start 2m right of fifteen. Straight up the slab to the large ledge. There are two carrot bolts here, (good for top belay or multi pitch practice). Straight up from here to easy but chossy top out. FFA: Alexander Xavier, 4 Aug 2019 | 10m | |||
17 | ★ Climb Fifteen
Start 2m right of fourteen. Mantle slab start to ledge. Place a hex and smear up from the crack leftward up to second ledge. Plenty of pro options here before left up and over small overhang to find carrot bolt. Easy up and top out from here. FFA: Alexander Xavier, 13 Jul 2019 | 10m, 1 | |||
17 | Climb Fourteen
Start 4 m right. Up the corner to below the big roof. Traverse right to crack and force overhang above to jugs and easy finish. | 10m | |||
14 | ★★★ Gmork
Up corner, mantle roof, top out. | 10m | |||
10 | Climb Thirteen
Start 3 m right. Up the overhung arete to stance. Continue up an easy wall to a crack in the headwall. Finish easily up this. | 10m | |||
10 | Climb Twelve
Start 2 m right. Up blocks to a good stance. Mantle the ledge on the right and scramble out. Now fully bolted with practice anchors halfway. | 10m | |||
14 | Climb Eleven
Start 1 m right. Very easy corner to below the vertical headwall. Up and right to the top. Now fully bolted. | 10m | |||
18 | Climb Ten
Start 5 m right. Same start as for climb #11. Trend left then up seam on small pockets to top. | 10m | |||
13 | ★★★ Atreyu
Up sharp arete, through blank face, top out through crack (where the tree currently is). | 10m | |||
8 | ★ Climb Nine
Start 2 m right. The line of least resistance up the easy ledges. Anchor from baluster 9. | 10m | |||
8 | Climb Eight
Start 1 m right. Up slab to ledges and top out. Anchor from baluster 8. | 10m | |||
12 | Climb Seven
Start 4 m right. Climb corner to below arête. Easily up this to top. Anchor from balusters 6 and 7. | 10m | |||
6 | Climb Six
Start 1 m right. Wandering line of least resistance to the corner and finish up this to top out. Anchor from baluster 6 and 7. | 10m | |||
13 | Luck Dragon
Needs some cleaning | 10m |