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Description

One of the most popular crags in the park, this is predominately a single pitch crag - with a nice flat base and easy access. The main routes are all located on the north facing cliff - so unless you like sunburn it's best to save this for the colder months. As for most of Kaputar there is a lot of loose blocks - bring a helmet and take care pulling ropes.

© (koala)

Approach

30 mins walk-in time. Head down the Euglah Springs fire trail (100m past the Bark Hut campsite turnoff). Stay on this fire trail for about 15 minutes of downhill walking until the cliff it directly in front of you. Look for major rock cairns marking the climbers trail on the right side of the road. Follow well worn climbers trail along saddle (rock cairns) and steeply up hill to base of cliff. To descend after climbing, abseil with care (it's very loose near the cliff edge) from trees or from chains above "There Goes the Neighborhood"

© (koala)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 * Terminal Operator Trad 42m

At the Southeast corner of the cliff just before the cliffline turns abruptly westward along the back of the formation.

Start: 30m left of altered states at a steep black corner near a small cave. A little dirty at the bottom but well worth doing for the second pitch.

  1. 12m. Up corner moving slightly left to pass overlap.

  2. 30m. Take the crack through bulge and up to top.

FA: Richard Curtis.(1,2) Richard Morris, 1986

2
16 Altered States Unknown 25m
3
16 Conspiracy Unknown 25m
4
17 Traitor Unknown 30m
5
17 Cracked Actor Unknown 30m
6
18 Cracking Up Unknown 30m
7
16 Wood 'n' Leap Unknown 25m

Initialed

8
15 * Temporal Reality Unknown 30m

Initialed

9
8 * Euglah's First Unknown 30m
10
14 The Great Mokka Unknown 40m
11
16 First Offence Trad 25m

Start at left end of pile of boulders 4m left of Insidious.

  1. Up rounded channel then broken cracks and groove tending right.

Set by Richard Morris, Richard Curtis, 1986

12
19 Uncle Toby's Wild Oats Unknown 30m
13
14 ** Insidious Trad 30m

Insidious (14) 30m

Has aquired a reputation among climbers at this grade. The original marking initial may still be visible. 4m to the Left of WITW Pitch (1) Up black slab following a vague weakness rightwards on sparse protection, then take deep bottoming crackline to top. Meets at top of slab to Wild is in the wind. Tree to rap off 60m rope

FA: Richard Curtis and Brian Birchall, 1977

14
14 Wild is the Wind Trad 35m

Initialed. Vegetated Left leaning weakness

15
13 Carry On Trad 35m

Faintly Initialed

16
10 Bird's-nest Soup Trad 25m
17
12 Lost World Layback Trad 25m
18
21 * Rigor Mortis Trad 35m

Initialed

19
20 One Night in Bangkok Unknown 20m
20
18 Harlequin Unknown 25m
22
17 * Devilled Sloth Trad 28m
23
17 Protocol Sport 27m

Dark Streak. Very loose rock at start. Expansion bolts are not stainless?

24
20 * Crack the Gripper Unknown 27m
25
19 ** Burning Spear Unknown 30m
26
21 * Shades of Grey Unknown 32m
27
20 Wasted Years Unknown 36m

Initialed

28
20 Firing Line Unknown 40m
29
19 Skin Flick Unknown 47m
30
19 Head-banger Unknown 40m
31
21 Acts of Terrorism Unknown 42m
32
19 Shiver Me Timbers Unknown 45m
33
18 Body-snatcher Unknown 45m
34
35
20 * Too Pooped to Pop Unknown 50m
36
20 * Comic Crack Trad 42m

Start: Six metres right of Steel Dance pitch 2. A crack which splits a rib or shallow arete.

  1. Just right of cave, move up avoiding a small overhang on its right. Continue up line to platform, then up crack through rib.

FA: Richard Curtis, Brian Birchall, 1981

37
18 * Steel Dance Unknown 45m
38
22 * Joys of the Flesh Unknown 47m
39
21 M1 The Roustabout Sport 50m

The bolted face left of Freudian Slip.

  1. 30m (21 M1) Climb orange wall on good in-cuts past an area of friable rock (2 aid bolts, likely free at 23), and go up left on grey rock to belay ledge and rap chains. This is a sport pitch.

  2. 20m (19) Step right into Freudian Slip and follow main crack then left groove at top to chains. Trad gear to 2”.

FA: Robin Barley, Judy Komori, 2010

40
20 * Freudian Slip Trad 52m

A dominating corner. Starts below first full length crack-line right of sun deck cave. Initialed.

  1. 34m (20) Up easily to ledge and FH at base of corner. Tricky start stemming up chossy rock (random dodgy rivet bolt) then steep sustained corner crack to hanging trad belay where it slabs off. Alternatively step left onto ledge and belay on bolts. This pitch has a lot of hollow sounding rock - take care.

  2. 18m (20) Continue up excellent handcrack corner, finishing up the right of two cracks with steep pumpy finale. Belay off rap chain to the left.

FA: R. Curtis (1,2) B. Birchall, J. Nelson, 1979

41
22 * Great Oz Wall Unknown 50m
42
20 * Primal Scream Unknown 50m

Initialed

43
26 * Aslan Unknown 50m
44
21 Mean Mistreater Unknown 55m
45
20 * Katzenjammer Kraks Trad 60m

Start left of 'Kelvinator' at an incipient crack which runs up the centre of a subsidiary buttress. Initialled.

  1. 30m. Up crack (difficult to start) to below a steep corner. Near its top traverse right onto the arete and up to easier ground. Continue up and left to large ledge. Belay below large corner and wall crack.

  2. 30m (crux) up corner to where it steepens and it is possible to traverse left past wedged block, then up through overlap to top.

FA: Richard Curtis, Brian Birchall, 1979

46
16 Kelvinator Unknown 50m
48
19 Mumbo Jumbo Unknown 50m
49
20 * Taking Liberties Unknown 50m
50
21 Service Charge Unknown 12m

The next routes are on an upper terrace. Walk along the base of the main cliff on a well worn trail until the lower cliff disappears and a track goes directly uphill to base of the upper cliff. This cliff is 35m high, and there are abseil chains above several routes (single 60m rope will get down - just). This is possibly the most popular area at Kaputar.

51
Unhinged Mixed 2

Mainly gear to tree at top. Start 5m left of Living in Sin, and climb up square recess past 2 bolts, pull out left and follow gear crack to ledge. Easier rock to top.

FA: Mick Hafner, Robin Barley, 2010

52
20 Once a Sinner Unknown 25m

Start at Unhinged and go up right past a couple of bolts to a vertical wall that takes good gear. Rappel chains down L.I.S.

FA: Robin Barley, 2011

53
19 M2 Living in Sin Aid 43m
55
22 Rotten Scoundrel Trad 25m

Bolts to gear to chains. 2m right of LIS, climb friable orange pockets, cross right to bottomless crack and climb on good gear.

FA: Mick Hafner, Robin Barley, 2008

56
21 ** Deaf Frights Unknown 35m
57
23 *** Edge Effects Unknown 40m
59
23 ** Blind Terror Unknown 40m
60
22 ** Dumb Scare Unknown 40m
61
19 Tricks of the Trade Unknown 40m
62
19 Better Get Used to It Unknown 30m
63
17 Swiss Made Unknown 30m
64
17 ** Yummikins Trad 33m

Bridge your way up the black corner. The start is marked

FA: Brian Birchall, Mark Colyvan, John Lattanzio, 1980

65
20 * Butterflies Unknown 33m
66
19 *** Best Foot Forward Trad 30m

Two climbs to the right of 'Yummikins', on dark coloured rock. Climb the obvious crack in the centre of the wall. 'Steep' featured rock, with good gear.

FA: Geoff Weigand, John Smoothy, 1982

67
18 ** Juicy Rumours Trad 30m

Outstanding left-facing corner with fantastic trad gear the whole way. Crux is around the little bulge about a third of the way up.

68
20 * Revisited Trad

The excellent bolted arete right of Juicy Rumors. This is NOT a sport route - you will need a finger crack cam on the 1/3rd ledge and a 0.75 camalot for the runout to the top. There is no dedicated rap anchor - finish rightwards to rap off chain above Bridge Over Troubled Waters.

FA: unknown

69
20 *** Clamp-down Trad 30m

Shallow seam/crack just right of the bolted arete. Gear is sparse down low but improves up high. Rap chain on the right at the top. This is not a 3 star route.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Paul Bayne, Justin Gouvernet, 1983

70
21 Bucket Time Unknown 30m
71

Initialled. Bush at half height. (Hopefully still there)

  1. Straight up the line. Good pro and plenty of variety.

FA: R. Curtis, Greg Croft, B. Birchall, 1979

72
20 Slope Opera Unknown 42m
73
18 * Airs and Graces Trad 35m

An exciting and bold arete.

  1. 18m (18) Traverse into the start from the ledge on the right (climbing direct up the crumbling dirt not recommended!). Climb through the bulge on hollow sounding rock (poor gear) to stance and horizontal crack (good cams). Now commit to the gritstone like daunting arete above on small edges to eventual bomber wire and jug. Clean undies and continue up seam to large ledge below corner. Medium cam belay.

  2. 17m (17) Continue up double crack corner above past wide flake (loose rock) to trad belay.

74
22 *** Rape and Romance Trad 35m

The RP seam crack at the crux provides some real mental stimulation. One of the best wall routes at Kaputar, with a real Moonarie feel in the lower-half. Starts 2m left of Malice Through the Looking Glass. Climb flakes for 10m to seam. Fill it with as many tiny wires as you can then launch boldy up face on good holds to better protection. Finish up quality handcrack to trad belay.

75

Initialed. The fused corner 10 metres right of Bridge Over Troubled Waters. Excellent technical stemming (and spaced fiddly gear) to halfway ledge - then easier wide crack climbing above (large cams very useful).

FA: Richard Curtis, Brian Birchall, 1979

76
19 The Orgasmotron Sport 30m

Arete 1m to the right

77
78
16 Before the Flood Unknown 30m
79
18 Isis Unknown 30m
80
17 Blood on the Tracks Unknown 30m
81
19 * Lusty Lunge Unknown 25m
82
19 The Vice Unknown 35m
83
17 Level Crossing Unknown 40m
85
19 The Fifteen Per Cent Unknown 30m
86
17 ** The Fantastic Four Unknown 30m
87
18 * The Last Waltz Sport 30m

Loose rock, and the 5th Hanger has a dodgy expansion bolt. The sleeve half out under hanger. Poor bolting

88
23 ** Ring Bolted Face Unknown 30m

Ring bolted route. Arete and face.

89
23 Pink Slip Unknown 30m
90
18 ** Revival Trad 30m

Originally initialled - may still be visible. At righthand end of terrace.

  1. Up wall to mantleshelf on right, then into corner and up.

FA: Richard Curtis, Brian Birchall, 1977

91
23 Right Wing Unknown 30m
92
19 Stress Factor Unknown 25m
93
19 Cold Comfort Trad 32m

Initialed

94
15 Incognito Unknown 17m
95
7 Solo Route Unknown 30m
96
22 * Ay Carumba Unknown 25m