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Description

One of the most popular crags in the park, this is predominately a single pitch crag - with a nice flat base and easy access. The main routes are all located on the north facing cliff - so unless you like sunburn it's best to save this for the colder months. As for most of Kaputar there is a lot of loose blocks - bring a helmet and take care pulling ropes. There are 8 new routes put up around 2010 on the south wall that provide a shaded option. Walk left around the base after hitting the cliff for 10 minutes. Unfortunately although the bolts are nicely camouflaged, "22" and "23" have been chiselled into the rock quite prominently. This should not be considered an example that should be followed anywhere.

© (koala)

Approach

30 mins walk-in time. Head down the Euglah Springs fire trail (100m past the Bark Hut campsite turnoff). Stay on this fire trail for about 15 minutes of downhill walking until the cliff it directly in front of you. Look for major rock cairns marking the climbers trail on the right side of the road. Follow well worn climbers trail along saddle (rock cairns) and steeply up hill to base of cliff. You arrive at a small cave with 'Steel Dance' above you. To descend after climbing, abseil with care (it's very loose near the cliff edge) from trees or from chains above 'There Goes the Neighbourhood'. It is also possible to abseil from slings around a tree above 'Wild is the Wind'.

© (koala)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

At the Southeast corner of the cliff just before the cliffline turns abruptly westward along the back of the formation.

Start: 30m left of altered states at a steep black corner near a small cave. A little dirty at the bottom but well worth doing for the second pitch.

  1. 12m. Up corner moving slightly left to pass overlap.

  2. 30m. Take the crack through bulge and up to top.

FA: Richard Curtis.(1 & 2) Richard Morris, 1986

Initialed

Initialed

Start at left end of pile of boulders 4m left of Insidious.

  1. Up rounded channel then broken cracks and groove tending right.

Set by Richard Morris & Richard Curtis, 1986

Has acquired a reputation among climbers at this grade. The original marking initial may still be visible. 4m to the left of WITW Up black slab following a vague weakness rightwards on sparse protection, then take deep bottoming crackline to top. Meets at top of slab to Wild is in the wind. Tree to rap off 60m rope

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1977

Initialed. Vegetated Left leaning weakness

Up the twin cracks to large ledge with shrubs then up the second cliff line via any number of options.

Start: 10m left of 'Lost World Layback'. Faintly Initialed

FA: Rod McClymont & Richard Thomas, 1978

Initialed

Climb broken rock resting against cliff 2m R of the block that Harlequin starts on to the start of the route. Up Black groove to chain belay

FA: robin Barley & judy komori, 2006

Dark Streak. Very loose rock at start. Expansion bolts are not stainless?

Start as for Wasted Years, initialled. Then up grey arête to the left of that route. Awful rock past the first 2 bolts that improves with height. Finished at chain belay in crack to the left of arête.

FA: Robin Barley, 2010

Initialed

Right of WY, start off boulder pulling on aid bolt to overcome undercut buttress. Up wall direct.

FA: robin barley & judy komori, 2006

Start: Six metres right of Steel Dance pitch 2. A crack which splits a rib or shallow arete.

  1. Just right of cave, move up avoiding a small overhang on its right. Continue up line to platform, then up crack through rib.

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1981

Into orange bay, turning roof on right past bolt, then finish as for MB to right to chains.

FA: Robin Barley

Start just left of cave where track meets cliff. Up line of bolts heading left then up groove to chain anchors as for BO.

FA: Robin Barley & judy Komori, 2006

The bolted face left of Freudian Slip.

  1. 30m (21 M1) Climb orange wall on good in-cuts past an area of friable rock (2 aid bolts, likely free at 23), and go up left on grey rock to belay ledge and rap chains. This is a sport pitch.

  2. 20m (19) Step right into Freudian Slip and follow main crack then left groove at top to chains. Trad gear to 2”.

FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori, 2010

FFA: Vanessa Wills, 2016

A dominating corner. Starts below first full length crack-line right of sun deck cave. Initialed.

  1. 34m (20) Up easily to ledge and FH at base of corner. Tricky start stemming up chossy rock (random dodgy rivet bolt) then steep sustained corner crack to hanging trad belay where it slabs off. Alternatively step left onto ledge and belay on bolts. This pitch has a lot of hollow sounding rock - take care.

  2. 18m (20) Continue up excellent handcrack corner, finishing up the right of two cracks with steep pumpy finale. Belay off rap chain to the left.

FA: R. Curtis (1, 2) B. Birchall & J. Nelson, 1979

Start just left of start for PS and GOW at small roof, following bolts to its left. Up into crack as for GOW for 10 m then follow more bolts left to belay on arête. There is another climb above this. Makes a well protected start for GOW.

FA: Hafner, Barley, curzon & komori

FFA: 2010

Apparently bolted but never climbed by Peter Wehr. Now readily accessed by Climbing AIDL, making a great second pitch, or rap in off bolts above GOW.

The red groove leading direct to the Primal Scream crack. Either continue up PS or head right to balcony anchors on the arete

FA: robin Barley & Mick Hafner, 2010

Initialed

  1. 25m (23) Up crack starting 2m left of fig growing in corner, under steep hanging corner in the next bay right of primal scream. Climb to ledge at half height.

  2. 25m (26) continue up corner through roof to stemming corner. Small cams and RPs essential

FA: tobin Sorensen

Start left of 'Kelvinator' at an incipient crack which runs up the centre of a subsidiary buttress. Initialled.

  1. 30m. Up crack (difficult to start) to below a steep corner. Near its top traverse right onto the arete and up to easier ground. Continue up and left to large ledge. Belay below large corner and wall crack.

  2. 30m (crux) up corner to where it steepens and it is possible to traverse left past wedged block, then up through overlap to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1979

Right of Taking Liberties where the path passes below an orange grooved buttress. P1 Climb left line up friable rock past bolts into chimney. Ledge and bolt belay above. P2 follow gear groove to chains at summit

FA: Robin Barley & Peter Shackleton, 2005

All bolts to chains. P1 Up friable rock to main groove, up this for a few moves then follow bolts left to arête and ledge belay. P2 follow arête then move right to finish up overhanging crack

FA: robin Barley & Peter Shackleton, 2005

The next routes are on an upper terrace. Walk along the base of the main cliff on a well worn trail until the lower cliff disappears and a track goes directly uphill to base of the upper cliff. This cliff is 35m high, and there are abseil chains above several routes (single 60m rope will get down - just). This is possibly the most popular area at Kaputar.

Mainly gear to tree at top. Start 5m left of Living in Sin, and climb up square recess past 2 bolts, pull out left and follow gear crack to ledge. Easier rock to top.

FA: Mick Hafner & Robin Barley, 2010

Start at Unhinged and go up right past a couple of bolts to a vertical wall that takes good gear. Rappel chains down L.I.S.

FA: Robin Barley, 2011

Bolts to gear to chains. 2m right of LIS, climb friable orange pockets, cross right to bottomless crack and climb on good gear.

FA: Mick Hafner & Robin Barley, 2008

Start as for DF but step right to arête. Continue up black face past many bolts before veering right to arête at top. Chains.

FA: john Fantini, Mick Hafner & Robin Rarley, 2008

Start as for Rotten Scoundrel, 2m R of LIS, climb over loose roof, into orange groove then head right to ledge, then straight up superb wall to anchor. Rest taken on final bolt on FA

FA: robin Barley, 2010

10m right of LIS, climb crumbly rock to excellent overhanging corner and shared chains. Accidentally retro bolted by Barley, who then discovered it had been climbed by Carrigan in 1997, and bolts were removed

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1997

Undercut start just left of trimmed dead tree which marks Inconsequential. Steeply up to climb arête, sharing bolts and anchors with Inconsequential

Start by climbing dead trimmed tree leaning against cliff then step left to bolt and up face and arête

Bolts and some gear to chains. Up yellow wall past bolts to ledge at 10m. Follow crack (gear) to big ledge and up right side of arête on bolts.

FA: Robin Barley & Peter Shackleton, 2005

Bridge your way up the black corner. The start is marked

FA: Brian Birchall, Mark Colyvan & John Lattanzio, 1980

Two climbs to the right of 'Yummikins', on dark coloured rock. Climb the obvious crack in the centre of the wall. 'Steep' featured rock, with good gear.

FA: Geoff Weigand & John Smoothy, 1982

Outstanding left-facing corner with fantastic trad gear the whole way. Crux is around the little bulge about a third of the way up.

The excellent bolted arete right of Juicy Rumors. This is NOT a sport route - you will need a finger crack cam on the 1/3rd ledge and a 0.75 camalot for the runout to the top. There is no dedicated rap anchor - finish rightwards to rap off chain above Bridge Over Troubled Waters.

FA: unknown

Shallow seam/crack just right of the bolted arete. Gear is sparse down low but improves up high. Rap chain on the right at the top. This is not a 3 star route.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Paul Bayne & Justin Gouvernet, 1983

Initialled, with a large block sitting against cliff at start. Bush at half height. (Hopefully still there)

  1. Straight up the line. Good pro and plenty of variety.

FA: R. Curtis, Greg Croft & B. Birchall, 1979

An exciting and bold arete.

  1. 18m (18) Traverse into the start from the ledge on the right (climbing direct up the crumbling dirt not recommended!). Climb through the bulge on hollow sounding rock (poor gear) to stance and horizontal crack (good cams). Now commit to the gritstone like daunting arete above on small edges to eventual bomber wire and jug. Clean undies and continue up seam to large ledge below corner. Medium cam belay.

  2. 17m (17) Continue up double crack corner above past wide flake (loose rock) to trad belay.

The RP seam crack at the crux provides some real mental stimulation. One of the best wall routes at Kaputar, with a real Moonarie feel in the lower-half. Starts 2m left of Malice Through the Looking Glass. Climb flakes for 10m to seam. Fill it with as many tiny wires as you can then launch boldy up face on good holds to better protection. Finish up quality handcrack to trad belay.

Initialed. The fused corner 10 metres right of Bridge Over Troubled Waters. Excellent technical stemming (and spaced fiddly gear) to halfway ledge - then easier wide crack climbing above (large cams very useful).

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1979

Immediately r of MTLG, climb bolted stereo and face above in 2 pitches

FA: robin Barley & wilbur king, 2011

Up groove, poor rock, 3 m to the right of MTLG. Head into finger crack after overhang at 6 m. Up block and corner to ledge then shared finish with BFI

FA: ian Brown & paul Colvyan, 1982

Climb the arête right of Orgasmatron on bolts to chains

FA: Robin Barley & Peter Shackleton, 2007

A mixed route if you place some gear at the start. Start as for Blood on tracks for 8 m then step left to gain arête. Climb arête to chains. Further gear to #3 helps supplement the bolts

FA: Robin Barley., Mick Hefner & John Howe, 2007

This is where the track meets the terrace. Tricky moves up vague corner 2 m r of BF. Take right crack line where the 2 converge, the left crack is Isis. Into deep crack and up

FA: ian Brown & stuart Wilson, 1982

Start 2 m r of BOT and take central line up wall. Gear to #3 including small gear needed. Pass 2 bolts on conglomerate then face climbing on good quality rock into final crack. Chain belay

FA: robin Barley & Judy Komori, 2008

Start in groove as for the vice but follow bolts left around roof, to arête and up. Appears to be a mixed route and possibly join with Lusty Lunge.

2m right of the Vice. And left of ring bolt route. Follow vague groove up yellow rock past FHs then left through bulge to ledge, pass final bolt and climb gear crack to top.

FA: barley, haffnet, Barley & Haffner, 2008

Ring bolted route. Arete and face.

Start as for a spot of necrosis but after the v groove stay left with small gear before steep but juggy exit and abseil as for wrongdoer.

Start up ring bolt route, step right to FH then right into hanging v groove. Up this to top, staying right at top of v groove

FA: Barley & Haffner, 2008

FHs to chains with one small wire needed. Climb yellow crumbly face past bolts then left through roof and over grey rock (wire) to ledge. Small wire and finger sized cams useful to supplement last bolt which has a sleeve sticking out 1 cm.Chain belay. Start 4 m L of revival block and just to left of 15% direct start.

FA: Howe & Barley, 2007

Loose rock, and the 5th Hanger has a dodgy expansion bolt. The sleeve half out under hanger. Poor bolting

The direct start to the crack of Pink Slip. Step off block up face past 3 bolts then into thin crack

FA: robin Barley & John Howe, 2007

Originally initialled - may still be visible. At righthand end of terrace.

  1. Up wall to mantleshelf on right, then into corner and up.

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1977

Start down, right of Revival. Follow bolts up yellow rock through overlap just left of arête to chains

FA: mick Hafner & Robin Barley, 2008

Initialed

On south face, 2m left of IT starting at ground. Climb brown groove then up left side of pillar into rounded hand crack. Bolts and gear to #4.

FA: robin Barley & John Howe, 2009

Starts on top of pointed boulder and heads to chain belay after surmounting large block, going up its right side.

FA: penny Cooper, John Howe & Robin Barley, 2009

Start on top of knobbly ramp 10 m left of DOS. Head left across wall then up face. An aid bolt just before crack up high helps get into crack. A #3 cam can be helpful above last bolt. Chain belay. Would probably go free at 25.

FA: john Fantini & Robin Barley, 2009

The left of 2 seams in an alcove with orange rock ."22" chiselled at base. Head out onto arête when out of groove, then back right on face to shared anchor with the 23.

FA: john Fantini & Robin Barley, 2009

The right of the seams in the orange alcove. Up steeply then right onto face and back left over small roof to shared anchors. "23" chiselled at base.

FA: John Fantini & Robin Barley, 2009

Gear to chains up left side of face

FA: Robin Barley, 2009

Climb up pedestal and ascend knobbly bulge then right on grey rock

FA: john Howe, Penny Cooper & Robin Barley, 2009

Gear to bolts and chains shared with P. start behind eucalypt just right of block and up wide crack

FA: Robin Barley, 2009

Activity

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