Site navigation


First time here? is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question


One of the most popular crags in the park, this is predominately a single pitch crag - with a nice flat base and easy access. The main routes are all located on the north facing cliff - so unless you like sunburn it's best to save this for the colder months. As for most of Kaputar there is a lot of loose blocks - bring a helmet and take care pulling ropes. There are 8 new routes put up around 2010 on the south wall that provide a shaded option. Walk left around the base after hitting the cliff for 10 minutes. Unfortunately although the bolts are nicely camouflaged, "22" and "23" have been chiselled into the rock quite prominently. This should not be considered an example that should be followed anywhere.

© (koala)

Access issues inherited from Kaputar

The road is suitable for 2WD vehicles but is steep, narrow and winding with part of the road gravel.

Caravans are not permitted.


30 mins walk-in time. Head down the Euglah Springs fire trail (100m past the Bark Hut campsite turnoff). Stay on this fire trail for about 15 minutes of downhill walking until the cliff is directly in front of you. Look for major rock cairns marking the climbers trail on the right side of the road. Follow well worn climbers trail along saddle (rock cairns) and steeply up hill to base of cliff. You arrive at a small cave with 'Steel Dance' above you. To descend after climbing, abseil with care (it's very loose near the cliff edge) from trees or from chains above 'There Goes the Neighbourhood'. It is also possible to abseil from slings around a tree above 'Wild is the Wind'.

© (koala)

Ethic inherited from Kaputar

Endorsed by:
Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, Scott Camps, Richard Curtis, Taib Ezekiel, Angus Farquhar, Adrian Kladnig, Vanessa Wills (some of whom would have preferred a stronger position).

Retro-bolting at Kaputar

Since the first climbs were done in Mount Kaputar National Park in the 1960s, it has been a predominantly trad climbing area. Until about ten years ago, most of the hundreds of established climbs were protected entirely with natural gear. A small number of climbs had one or two bolts, and a few independent, fully bolt-protected climbs had been done. The 80m north face of The Governor has been regarded as one of the premier trad crags in Australia, with more than 80 multi-pitch climbs, many of very high quality, mostly established in ground-up style and with only a few bolts in total (and often at the technical limit of the climbers).

Since about 2005, more bolt-protected climbs have been established, particularly on Euglah and then Mt Lindesay, then The Governor. At first these were independent of established trad climbs and on otherwise unprotectable rock. But over the past few years other climbers have been retro-bolting over the top of existing climbs. This practice began on Mt Lindesay and then extended onto the Governor.

On Lindesay, about 200 bolts were placed, most of which retro-bolt or impact on at least 20 existing climbs. Bolts were very close together and some bolted lines were only one metre apart. Many bolts were placed beside good placements for removable gear. Numerous chains were also installed at the cliff-top, and the climb grades were painted in large letters along the bottom. Some of the bolts were found to be dangerous – either glue-ins on which the glue never cured (and which pulled out by hand) or dangerously short ‘studs’.

These were not assessable without removing them. Some of the retro-bolted Lindesay climbs are on the bold side, while others are very well protected with natural gear.

On The Governor, at least 60 bolts were been placed which either retro-bolt existing climbs, or squeeze up very close to them. Natural lines on The Governor’s columnar structure tend be only a couple of metres apart, so any new bolted climbs will impact on adjacent trad routes. Eight climbs have been impacted, including the popular moderate classic Clandestiny, and it's start that gives access to five other climbs. Additional chain anchors have been installed at the cliff-top. Some of the new Governor bolts have also been found to be dangerous, including a chain anchor with un-cured glue.

The retro-bolting on both Mt Lindesay and The Governor was visually intrusive, using large stainless ring bolts or shiny stainless brackets.

The people who have done this retro-bolting are not known to have consulted with first ascensionists, other Kaputar climbers or NPWS. Some first ascensionists and other climbers are angry.


A number of climbers who love the special qualities of Kaputar climbing became very concerned about this trend and joined together to take action. The objectives are to restore The Governor to a premier trad-only crag (i.e. no sport routes), and to remove impacts on pre-existing routes on Mt Lindesay (retro-bolting etc). Most of the offending new bolts have now been removed and patched on both cliffs and the remainder will be removed shortly. Painted grades have been cleaned off. This has taken lot of work, time and expense by a bunch of people. If any of the bolts removed from these climbs are replaced, they will also be removed. Any new retro-bolting will also be removed.

Why have we taken this action?

Because we believe the following:

  • Existing trad climbs and quality trad crags should be retained in their original condition. That means no retro-bolting and no bolting that impacts on the integrity, or ‘hanging space’, of natural lines. Good trad cliffs, and trad climbs in general, are limited resources which need protection.
  • Retro-bolting on established climbs should be opposed and rectified.
  • National parks exist to protect natural areas. Therefore the environmental impact of climbing should be minimised in national parks. Trad climbing is generally low in impact, consistent with other activities like remote bushwalking. The Plan of Management for Mt Kaputar National Park (2006, section 4.3.9, page 37 – emphasis added) states: The NPWS will provide information and guidance on Service policy to visitors wishing to undertake adventure activities in the park, and will require minimal impact use of the park for these activities.
  • Excessive and unsightly bolting or other climbing impacts in national parks risk attracting the disapproval of other park visitors and park authorities, and may threaten ongoing climber access to these areas.

Trad climbing at Kaputar

Trad climbing at Kaputar requires judgment and skill. Important skills include route-finding, down-climbing (when necessary) and finding and using natural gear placements - which are often small wires or cams/nuts in unexpected places. Kaputar is a good place to learn and apply these skills because it offers trad climbs at a wide range of grades.

Protection is often very good but not always obvious from below. Poor protection is usually mentioned in route descriptions, and/or allowed for in the grading (i.e. increased grade for poor protection). Bold routes on Mt Lindesay can be easily top-roped. Route descriptions on will be amended where necessary to assist safe climbing on climbs that were previously retro-bolted. But climbers should always be wary of attempting trad climbs that are close to the limit of their ability.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

At the Southeast corner of the cliff just before the cliffline turns abruptly westward along the back of the formation.

Start: 30m left of altered states at a steep black corner near a small cave. A little dirty at the bottom but well worth doing for the second pitch.

  1. 12m. Up corner moving slightly left to pass overlap.

  2. 30m. Take the crack through bulge and up to top.

FA: Richard Curtis.(1 & 2) Richard Morris, 1986

  1. (Crux) Crack 2m L of Conspircy to bulge, then bridge widely to ledge.

  2. 10m hand crack.

FA: Warwick Payten & Anthony Brennan, 1984

Up crack 2m L of Traitor, through small roof to ledge. Move R into Traitor and up.

FA: John Lattanzio & Mark Colyvan, 1981

Start Marked. Up crack 2m L of Cracked Actor taking R brnch up high.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Greg Croft, 1980

'Crack, baby, crack, show me you're real' Off-width 1m L of Cracking Up. Through overhang to cave and up.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Geoff Francis & Greg Pritchard, 1979

'I don't think it's funny no more' Marked. Strenuous off-width 5m L of Wood n' Leap.

FA: Mark Colyvan, 1980

Upgraded from a 14 after a rock slide. Loose rock remains. Just right of SE arete. Marked. Climb behind (13) or up (16) L of off-width chimney, or bridge up on R. Continue over loose boulders.

FA: Joe Friend, Len Zuiderduin & Matt Zuiderduin, 1977

Initialled. Crack line 2m R of WL. Through overhanging chimney.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Greg Pritchard, 1980

  1. Up staircse 10m down L from The Grat Mooka to bulge. R and up to small watercourse and up to ledge.

  2. 10m. L under overhang into chimney and up.

FA: R Buckley & C Tappere, 1967

Start 20m L of Insidious at cairned block. On to ledge, then L to corner with loose blocks. Corner, off-width crack up to cypress.

FA: Rob Dixon, Sheryl Greathead & Richard Thomas, 1977

Start at left end of pile of boulders 4m left of Insidious.

  1. Up rounded channel then broken cracks and groove tending right.

FA: Richard Morris & Richard Curtis, 1986

3m L of Insidious. Middle of slab, then thin crack. From Bulge, head diagonally R into Insidious and finish.

FA: Anthony Brennan & Peter Johnson, 1985

Has acquired a reputation among climbers at this grade. The original marking initial may still be visible. 4m to the left of WITW

Up black slab following a vague weakness rightwards on sparse protection, then take deep bottoming crackline to top. Meets at top of slab to Wild is the Wind. Tree to rap off 60m rope

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1977

Initialed. Crack-line 6m R of Insidious, L of 'baboon's head'. Through overhang, up crack to tree'd ledge, then bridge up as for Insidious.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Phil Segal, 1978

Up the twin cracks to large ledge with shrubs then up the second cliff line via any number of options.

Start: 10m left of 'Lost World Layback'. Faintly Initialed

FA: Rod McClymont & Richard Thomas, 1978

Corner crack 2m L of Lost World Layback, which it joins at half-height to finish.

FA: Adrian Cooper & Stephen Caldwell, 1979

Initialled. At top of short ramp above native pine tree.

Tricky crack for 5m, then R trending gully. Finish up Lost Layback Crack on L.

FA: Joe Friend, John Croker & Trevor Gynther, 1973

Initialed. Crack on bulging wall 3m R of LWL.

Up to sloping ledge, then slight recess. Through bulge, up steep crack crack to ledge, then pleasant corner to finish.

FA: Ian Brown & Warwick Payten, 1982

FFA: Mark Colyvan & Ian Brown, 1983

Crack R of RM to big ledge. Wall on L.

FA: Anthony Brennan & Mark Colyvan, 1986

2m R of ONB. Up and over large, wedge-shaped block.

FA: Anthony Brennan, Jeremy Cook & Martin Hallman, 1987

Climb broken rock resting against cliff 2m R of the block that Harlequin starts on to the start of the route. Up Black groove to chain belay

FA: robin Barley & judy komori, 2006

Up just L of Devilled Sloth for 5m to sloping ledge. L into crack and up to ledge beneath bulge. Up crack in bulge and follow it up arete.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Paul Colyvan & Al Stephens, 1983

Dark Streak. Very loose rock at start. Expansion bolts are not stainless?

Hand crack that leads to rusty chains and fixed Biner. A good spot to abseil off, especially if the anchor gets fixed. Some carrots for anchor back up. Start 15m left of cave where track meets cliff, up unprotected slab into right facing corner that continues into handcrack.

Start as for Wasted Years, initialled. Then up grey arête to the left of that route. Awful rock past the first 2 bolts that improves with height. Finished at chain belay in crack to the left of arête.

FA: Robin Barley, Nov 2010


Right of WY, start off boulder pulling on aid bolt to overcome undercut buttress. Up wall direct.

FA: robin barley & judy komori, 2006

Start: Six metres right of Steel Dance pitch 2. A crack which splits a rib or shallow arete.

  1. Just right of cave, move up avoiding a small overhang on its right. Continue up line to platform, then up crack through rib.

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1981

Into orange bay, turning roof on right past bolt, then finish as for MB to right to chains.

FA: Robin Barley

Start just left of cave where track meets cliff. Up line of bolts heading left then up groove to chain anchors as for BO.

FA: Robin Barley & judy Komori, 2006

1 21 30m
2 19 20m

The bolted face left of Freudian Slip.

  1. 30m (21 M1) Climb orange wall on good in-cuts past an area of friable rock (2 aid bolts, likely free at 23), and go up left on grey rock to belay ledge and rap chains. This is a sport pitch.

  2. 20m (19) Step right into Freudian Slip and follow main crack then left groove at top to chains. Trad gear to 2”.

FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori, Nov 2010

FFA: Vanessa Wills, Jun 2016

1 20 34m
2 20 18m

A dominating corner. Starts below first full length crack-line right of sun deck cave. Initialed.

  1. 34m (20) Up easily to ledge and FH at base of corner. Tricky start stemming up chossy rock (random dodgy rivet bolt) then steep sustained corner crack to hanging trad belay where it slabs off. Alternatively step left onto ledge and belay on bolts. This pitch has a lot of hollow sounding rock - take care.

  2. 18m (20) Continue up excellent handcrack corner, finishing up the right of two cracks with steep pumpy finale. Belay off rap chain to the left.

FA: R. Curtis (1, 2) B. Birchall & J. Nelson, 1979

Start just left of start for PS and GOW at small roof, following bolts to its left. Up into crack as for GOW for 10 m then follow more bolts left to belay on arête. There is another climb above this. Makes a well protected start for GOW.

FA: Hafner, Barley, curzon & komori

FFA: 2010

Apparently bolted but never climbed by Peter Wehr. Now readily accessed by Climbing AIDL, making a great second pitch, or rap in off bolts above GOW.

The red groove leading direct to the Primal Scream crack. Either continue up PS or head right to balcony anchors on the arete

FA: robin Barley & Mick Hafner, Dec 2010


  1. 25m (23) Up crack starting 2m left of fig growing in corner, under steep hanging corner in the next bay right of primal scream. Climb to ledge at half height.

  2. 25m (26) continue up corner through roof to stemming corner. Small cams and RPs essential

FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979

Start left of 'Kelvinator' at an incipient crack which runs up the centre of a subsidiary buttress. Initialled.

  1. 30m. Up crack (difficult to start) to below a steep corner. Near its top traverse right onto the arete and up to easier ground. Continue up and left to large ledge. Belay below large corner and wall crack.

  2. 30m (crux) up corner to where it steepens and it is possible to traverse left past wedged block, then up through overlap to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1979

Right of Taking Liberties where the path passes below an orange grooved buttress. This is just before the terrace appears up high. P1 Climb left line up black groove to small triangular roof with a bolt visible at 6 m. Follow 3 bolts up friable rock until into chimney. Continue up corner to Ledge and bolt belay on right. P2 follow all gear groove to chains at summit ( may be difficult to locate)

FA: Robin Barley & Peter Shackleton, 2005

All bolts to chains. P1 Up friable rock to main groove, up this for a few moves then follow bolts left to arête and ledge belay. P2 follow arête then move right to finish up overhanging crack

FA: robin Barley & Peter Shackleton, 2005

The next routes are on an upper terrace. Walk along the base of the main cliff on a well worn trail until the lower cliff disappears and a track goes directly uphill to base of the upper cliff. This cliff is 35m high, and there are abseil chains above several routes (single 60m rope will get down - just). This is possibly the most popular area at Kaputar.

Mainly gear to tree at top. Start 5m left of Living in Sin, and climb up square recess past 2 bolts, pull out left and follow gear crack to ledge. Easier rock to top.

FA: Mick Hafner & Robin Barley, Nov 2010

Start at Unhinged and go up right past a couple of bolts to a vertical wall that takes good gear. Rappel chains down L.I.S.

FA: Robin Barley, Dec 2011

Bolts to gear to chains. 2m right of LIS, climb friable orange pockets, cross right to bottomless crack and climb on good gear.

FA: Mick Hafner & Robin Barley, Dec 2008

Start as for Rotten Scoundrel, 2m R of LIS, climb over loose roof, into orange groove then head right to ledge, then straight up superb wall to anchor. Rest taken on final bolt on FA

FA: robin Barley, Nov 2010

10m right of LIS, climb crumbly rock to excellent overhanging corner and shared chains. Accidentally retro bolted by Barley, who then discovered it had been climbed by Carrigan in 1997, and bolts were removed

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1997

Undercut start just left of trimmed dead tree which marks Inconsequential. Steeply up to climb arête, sharing bolts and anchors with Inconsequential

Start by climbing dead trimmed tree leaning against cliff then step left to bolt and up face and arête

Corner 1m R of IBE. Mounts pedestal at half height. 3 rusty BRs and a fixed wire. Trad belay

FA: paul Bayne & Mary Ralston, 1985

Start as for DF but step right to arête. Continue up black face past many bolts before veering right to arête at top. Chains.

FA: john Fantini, Mick Hafner & Robin Rarley, Dec 2008

Bolts and some gear to chains. Up yellow wall past bolts and crack as for BGUTI to ledge at 10m. Step left and follow crack in arête (gear) to big ledge and up right side of arête on bolts. Full rack to # 3

FA: Robin Barley & Peter Shackleton, 2005

Direct start to Swiss made, the high V corner. Start up steep crack, start now partly retro bolted by CTDB

Start as for Y but step left after a few metres and into prominent V corner up higher

Start up Y but at 1/3 height step left into hanging corner. And continue up the line.

Bridge your way up the black corner. The start is marked

FA: Brian Birchall, Mark Colyvan & John Lattanzio, 1980

Two climbs to the right of 'Yummikins', on dark coloured rock. Climb the obvious crack in the centre of the wall. 'Steep' featured rock, with good gear.

FA: Geoff Weigand & John Smoothy, 1982

Outstanding left-facing corner with fantastic trad gear the whole way. Crux is around the little bulge about a third of the way up.

The excellent bolted arete right of Juicy Rumors. This is NOT a sport route - you will need a finger crack cam on the 1/3rd ledge and a 0.75 camalot for the runout to the top. There is no dedicated rap anchor - finish rightwards to rap off chain above Bridge Over Troubled Waters.

FA: unknown

Shallow seam/crack just right of the bolted arete. Gear is sparse down low but improves up high. Rap chain on the right at the top. This is not a 3 star route.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Paul Bayne & Justin Gouvernet, 1983

Initialled, with a large block sitting against cliff at start. Bush at half height. (Hopefully still there)

  1. Straight up the line. Good pro and plenty of variety.

FA: R. Curtis, Greg Croft & B. Birchall, 1979

1 18 18m
2 17 17m

An exciting and bold arete.

  1. 18m (18) Traverse into the start from the ledge on the right (climbing direct up the crumbling dirt not recommended!). Climb through the bulge on hollow sounding rock (poor gear) to stance and horizontal crack (good cams). Now commit to the gritstone like daunting arete above on small edges to eventual bomber wire and jug. Clean undies and continue up seam to large ledge below corner. Medium cam belay.

  2. 17m (17) Continue up double crack corner above past wide flake (loose rock) to trad belay.

The RP seam crack at the crux provides some real mental stimulation. One of the best wall routes at Kaputar, with a real Moonarie feel in the lower-half. Starts 2m left of Malice Through the Looking Glass. Climb flakes for 10m to seam. Fill it with as many tiny wires as you can then launch boldy up face on good holds to better protection. Finish up quality handcrack to trad belay.

Initialed. The fused corner 10 metres right of Bridge Over Troubled Waters. Excellent technical stemming (and spaced fiddly gear) to halfway ledge - then easier wide crack climbing above (large cams very useful).

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1979

Immediately r of MTLG, climb bolted arête and face above in 2 pitches. Second pitch has red painted bolts

FA: robin Barley & wilbur king, 2011

Up groove, poor rock, 3 m to the right of MTLG. Head into finger crack after overhang at 6 m. Up block and corner to ledge then shared finish with BFI

FA: ian Brown & paul Colvyan, 1982

Climb the arête right of Orgasmatron on bolts to chains

FA: Robin Barley & Peter Shackleton, 2007

A mixed route if you place some gear at the start. Start as for Blood on tracks for 8 m then step left to gain arête. Climb arête to chains. Further gear to #3 helps supplement the bolts

FA: Robin Barley., Mick Hefner & John Howe, 2007

This is where the track meets the terrace. Tricky moves up vague corner 2 m r of BF. Take right crack line where the 2 converge, the left crack is Isis. Into deep crack and up

FA: ian Brown & stuart Wilson, 1982

Start 2 m r of BOT and take central line up wall. Gear to #3 including small gear needed. Pass 2 bolts on conglomerate then face climbing on good quality rock into final crack. Chain belay

FA: robin Barley & Judy Komori, 2008

Start in groove as for the vice but follow bolts left around roof, to arête and up. Appears to be a mixed route and possibly join with Lusty Lunge.

2m right of the Vice. And left of ring bolt route. Follow vague groove up yellow rock past FHs then left through bulge to ledge, pass final bolt and climb gear crack to top.

FA: barley, haffnet, Barley & Haffner, 2008

Ring bolted route. Arete and face.

Start as for a spot of necrosis but after the v groove stay left with small gear before steep but juggy exit and abseil as for wrongdoer.

Start up ring bolt route, step right to FH then right into hanging v groove. Up this to top, staying right at top of v groove

FA: Barley & Haffner, 2008

MIXED route. FHs to chains with one small wire needed. Climb yellow crumbly face past bolts then left through roof and over grey rock (wire) to ledge. Small wire and finger sized cams useful to supplement last bolt which has a sleeve sticking out 1 cm.Chain belay. Start 4 m L of revival block and just to left of 15% direct start.

FA: Howe & Barley, 2007

Loose rock, and the 5th Hanger has a dodgy expansion bolt. The sleeve half out under hanger. Poor bolting

The direct start to the crack of Pink Slip. Step off block up face past 3 bolts then into thin crack

FA: robin Barley & John Howe, 2007

Originally initialled - may still be visible. At righthand end of terrace.

  1. Up wall to mantleshelf on right, then into corner and up.

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1977

Start down, right of Revival. Follow bolts up yellow rock through overlap just left of arête to chains

FA: mick Hafner & Robin Barley, Dec 2008


On south face, 2m left of IT starting at ground. Climb brown groove then up left side of pillar into rounded hand crack. Bolts and gear to #4.

FA: robin Barley & John Howe, Dec 2009

Starts on top of pointed boulder and heads to chain belay after surmounting large block, going up its right side.

FA: penny Cooper, John Howe & Robin Barley, Dec 2009

Start on top of knobbly ramp 10 m left of DOS. Head left across wall then up face. An aid bolt just before crack up high helps get into crack. A #3 cam can be helpful above last bolt. Chain belay. Would probably go free at 25.

FA: john Fantini & Robin Barley, Dec 2009

The left of 2 seams in an alcove with orange rock ."22" chiselled at base. Head out onto arête when out of groove, then back right on face to shared anchor with the 23.

FA: john Fantini & Robin Barley, Dec 2009

The right of the seams in the orange alcove. Up steeply then right onto face and back left over small roof to shared anchors. "23" chiselled at base.

FA: John Fantini & Robin Barley, Dec 2009

Gear to chains up left side of face

FA: Robin Barley, Dec 2009

Climb up pedestal and ascend knobbly bulge then right on grey rock

FA: john Howe, Penny Cooper & Robin Barley, Dec 2009

Gear to bolts and chains shared with P. start behind eucalypt just right of block and up wide crack

FA: Robin Barley, Dec 2009


Check out what is happening in Euglah Rock.