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Description

One of the most popular crags in the park, this is predominately a single pitch crag - with a nice flat base and easy access. The main routes are all located on the north facing cliff - so unless you like sunburn it's best to save this for the colder months. As for most of Kaputar there is a lot of loose blocks - bring a helmet and take care pulling ropes. There are 8 new routes put up around 2010 on the south wall that provide a shaded option. Walk left around the base after hitting the cliff for 10 minutes. Unfortunately although the bolts are nicely camouflaged, "22" and "23" have been chiselled into the rock quite prominently. This should not be considered an example that should be followed anywhere.

© (koala)

Approach

30 mins walk-in time. Head down the Euglah Springs fire trail (100m past the Bark Hut campsite turnoff). Stay on this fire trail for about 15 minutes of downhill walking until the cliff it directly in front of you. Look for major rock cairns marking the climbers trail on the right side of the road. Follow well worn climbers trail along saddle (rock cairns) and steeply up hill to base of cliff. You arrive at a small cave with Steel Dance above you. To descend after climbing, abseil with care (it's very loose near the cliff edge) from trees or from chains above "There Goes the Neighborhood"

© (koala)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 ** Terminal Operator Trad 42m 2

At the Southeast corner of the cliff just before the cliffline turns abruptly westward along the back of the formation.

Start: 30m left of altered states at a steep black corner near a small cave. A little dirty at the bottom but well worth doing for the second pitch.

  1. 12m. Up corner moving slightly left to pass overlap.

  2. 30m. Take the crack through bulge and up to top.

FA: Richard Curtis.(1 & 2) Richard Morris, 1986

2
16 Altered States Unknown 25m
3
16 Conspiracy Unknown 25m
4
17 * Traitor Unknown 30m
5
17 * Cracked Actor Unknown 30m
6
18 Cracking Up Unknown 30m
7
16 Wood 'n' Leap Unknown 25m

Initialed

8
15 ** Temporal Reality Unknown 30m

Initialed

9
8 * Euglah's First Unknown 30m
10
14 The Great Mokka Unknown 40m
11
16 First Offence Trad 25m

Start at left end of pile of boulders 4m left of Insidious.

  1. Up rounded channel then broken cracks and groove tending right.

Set by Richard Morris & Richard Curtis, 1986

12
19 Uncle Toby's Wild Oats Unknown 30m
13
14 ** Insidious Trad 30m

Insidious (14) 30m

Has aquired a reputation among climbers at this grade. The original marking initial may still be visible. 4m to the Left of WITW Pitch (1) Up black slab following a vague weakness rightwards on sparse protection, then take deep bottoming crackline to top. Meets at top of slab to Wild is in the wind. Tree to rap off 60m rope

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1977

14
14 * Wild is the Wind Trad 35m

Initialed. Vegetated Left leaning weakness

15
13 Carry On Trad 35m

Faintly Initialed

16
10 Bird's-nest Soup Trad 25m
17
12 Lost World Layback Trad 25m
18
21 ** Rigor Mortis Trad 35m

Initialed

19
20 * One Night in Bangkok Unknown 20m
20
18 Harlequin Unknown 25m
21
20 * Black Antics Sport 25m

Climb broken rock resting against cliff 2m R of the block that Harlequin starts on to the start of the route. Up Black groove to chain belay

FA: robin Barley & judy komori, 2006

22
19 Head-banger Unknown 40m
24
17 * Devilled Sloth Trad 28m
25
17 Protocol Sport 27m

Dark Streak. Very loose rock at start. Expansion bolts are not stainless?

26
20 ** Crack the Gripper Unknown 27m
27
19 ** Burning Spear Unknown 30m
28
21 ** Shades of Grey Unknown 32m
29
21 Queen of the Goths Sport 27m

Start as for Wasted Years, initialled. Then up grey arête to the left of that route. Awful rock past the first 2 bolts that improves with height. Finished at chain belay in crack to the left of arête.

FA: Robin Barley, 2010

30
20 ** Wasted Years Unknown 36m

Initialed

31
20 Firing Line Unknown 40m
32
21 Titarse Andronicus Sport 25m

Right of WY, start off boulder pulling on aid bolt to overcome undercut buttress. Up wall direct.

FA: robin barley & judy komori, 2006

33
19 Skin Flick Unknown 47m
34
21 Acts of Terrorism Unknown 42m
35
19 Shiver Me Timbers Unknown 45m
36
18 Baked Ochre Mixed 20m, 3

Into orange bay, turning roof on right past bolt, then finish as for MB to right to chains.

FA: Robin Barley

37
19 Marginally Baked Sport 20m

Start just left of cave where track meets cliff. Up line of bolts heading left then up groove to chain anchors as for BO.

FA: Robin Barley & judy Komori, 2006

38
18 Body-snatcher Unknown 45m
39
40
20 * Too Pooped to Pop Unknown 50m
41
20 ** Comic Crack Trad 42m

Start: Six metres right of Steel Dance pitch 2. A crack which splits a rib or shallow arete.

  1. Just right of cave, move up avoiding a small overhang on its right. Continue up line to platform, then up crack through rib.

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1981

42
18 * Steel Dance Unknown 45m
43
22 * Joys of the Flesh Unknown 47m
44
23 * The Roustabout Sport 50m 2

The bolted face left of Freudian Slip.

  1. 30m (21 M1) Climb orange wall on good in-cuts past an area of friable rock (2 aid bolts, likely free at 23), and go up left on grey rock to belay ledge and rap chains. This is a sport pitch.

  2. 20m (19) Step right into Freudian Slip and follow main crack then left groove at top to chains. Trad gear to 2”.

FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori, 2010

FFA: Vanessa Wills, 2016

45
20 ** Freudian Slip Trad 52m

A dominating corner. Starts below first full length crack-line right of sun deck cave. Initialed.

  1. 34m (20) Up easily to ledge and FH at base of corner. Tricky start stemming up chossy rock (random dodgy rivet bolt) then steep sustained corner crack to hanging trad belay where it slabs off. Alternatively step left onto ledge and belay on bolts. This pitch has a lot of hollow sounding rock - take care.

  2. 18m (20) Continue up excellent handcrack corner, finishing up the right of two cracks with steep pumpy finale. Belay off rap chain to the left.

FA: R. Curtis (1, 2) B. Birchall & J. Nelson, 1979

46

Start just left of start for PS and GOW at small roof, following bolts to its left. Up into crack as for GOW for 10 m then follow more bolts left to belay on arête. There is another climb above this. Makes a well protected start for GOW.

FA: Hafner, Barley, curzon & komori

FFA: 2010

47
22 * Great Oz Wall Unknown 50m
48
20 * Bonzerland Trad 25m

The red groove leading direct to the Primal Scream crack. Either continue up PS or head right to balcony anchors on the arete

FA: robin Barley & Mick Hafner, 2010

49
20 * Primal Scream Unknown 50m

Initialed

50
26 ** Aslan Unknown 50m 2

Pitch 1 up crack starting 2m left of fig growing in corner, under steep hanging corner in the next bay right of primal scream. Climb to ledge at half height. Pitch 2 continue up corner through roof to stemming corner. Small cams and RPs essential

FA: tobin Sorensen

51
21 Mean Mistreater Unknown 55m
52
20 * Katzenjammer Kraks Trad 60m 2

Start left of 'Kelvinator' at an incipient crack which runs up the centre of a subsidiary buttress. Initialled.

  1. 30m. Up crack (difficult to start) to below a steep corner. Near its top traverse right onto the arete and up to easier ground. Continue up and left to large ledge. Belay below large corner and wall crack.

  2. 30m (crux) up corner to where it steepens and it is possible to traverse left past wedged block, then up through overlap to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1979

53
16 Kelvinator Unknown 50m
55
19 Mumbo Jumbo Unknown 50m
56
20 * Taking Liberties Unknown 50m
57

Right of Taking Liberties where the path passes below an orange grooved buttress. P1 Climb left line up friable rock past bolts into chimney. Ledge and bolt belay above. P2 follow gear groove to chains at summit

FA: Robin Barley & Peter Shackleton, 2005

58
21 Service Charge Unknown 12m
59

All bolts to chains. P1 Up friable rock to main groove, up this for a few moves then follow bolts left to arête and ledge belay. P2 follow arête then move right to finish up overhanging crack

FA: robin Barley & Peter Shackleton, 2005

The next routes are on an upper terrace. Walk along the base of the main cliff on a well worn trail until the lower cliff disappears and a track goes directly uphill to base of the upper cliff. This cliff is 35m high, and there are abseil chains above several routes (single 60m rope will get down - just). This is possibly the most popular area at Kaputar.

60
Unhinged Mixed 2

Mainly gear to tree at top. Start 5m left of Living in Sin, and climb up square recess past 2 bolts, pull out left and follow gear crack to ledge. Easier rock to top.

FA: Mick Hafner & Robin Barley, 2010

61
20 Once a Sinner Unknown 25m

Start at Unhinged and go up right past a couple of bolts to a vertical wall that takes good gear. Rappel chains down L.I.S.

FA: Robin Barley, 2011

62
19 M2 Living in Sin Aid 43m
64
22 ** Relentless Sinner Sport 30m

Start as for Rotten Scoundrel, 2m R of LIS, climb over loose roof, into orange groove then head right to ledge, then straight up superb wall to anchor. Rest taken on final bolt on FA

FA: robin Barley, 2010

65
22 Rotten Scoundrel Trad 25m

Bolts to gear to chains. 2m right of LIS, climb friable orange pockets, cross right to bottomless crack and climb on good gear.

FA: Mick Hafner & Robin Barley, 2008

66
23 Gloworthy Groove Trad 20m

10m right of LIS, climb crumbly rock to excellent overhanging corner and shared chains. Accidentally retro bolted by Barley, who then discovered it had been climbed by Carrigan in 1997, and bolts were removed

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1997

67
21 Ernest efforts Sport 20m

Undercut start just left of trimmed dead tree which marks Inconsequential. Steeply up to climb arête, sharing bolts and anchors with Inconsequential

68
18 Inconsequential Sport 20m

Start by climbing dead trimmed tree leaning against cliff then step left to bolt and up face and arête

69
21 * Deaf Frights Unknown 35m
70
24 ** Edge of Ecstasy Sport 30m, 14

Start as for DF but step right to arête. Continue up black face past many bolts before veering right to arête at top. Chains.

FA: john Fantini, Mick Hafner & Robin Rarley, 2008

71
23 ** Edge Effects Unknown 40m
73
23 ** Blind Terror Unknown 40m
74
22 ** Dumb Scare Unknown 40m
75
19 Tricks of the Trade Unknown 40m
76
19 * Better Get Used to It Unknown 30m
77
17 ** Swiss Made Unknown 30m
78
17 ** Yummikins Trad 33m

Bridge your way up the black corner. The start is marked

FA: Brian Birchall, Mark Colyvan & John Lattanzio, 1980

79
20 ** Butterflies Unknown 33m
80
19 ** Best Foot Forward Trad 30m

Two climbs to the right of 'Yummikins', on dark coloured rock. Climb the obvious crack in the centre of the wall. 'Steep' featured rock, with good gear.

FA: Geoff Weigand & John Smoothy, 1982

81
18 ** Juicy Rumours Trad 30m

Outstanding left-facing corner with fantastic trad gear the whole way. Crux is around the little bulge about a third of the way up.

82
20 ** Revisited Trad

The excellent bolted arete right of Juicy Rumors. This is NOT a sport route - you will need a finger crack cam on the 1/3rd ledge and a 0.75 camalot for the runout to the top. There is no dedicated rap anchor - finish rightwards to rap off chain above Bridge Over Troubled Waters.

FA: unknown

83
20 ** Clamp-down Trad 30m

Shallow seam/crack just right of the bolted arete. Gear is sparse down low but improves up high. Rap chain on the right at the top. This is not a 3 star route.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Paul Bayne & Justin Gouvernet, 1983

84
21 Bucket Time Unknown 30m
85

Initialled. Bush at half height. (Hopefully still there)

  1. Straight up the line. Good pro and plenty of variety.

FA: R. Curtis, Greg Croft & B. Birchall, 1979

86
20 Slope Opera Unknown 42m
87
18 * Airs and Graces Trad 35m 2

An exciting and bold arete.

  1. 18m (18) Traverse into the start from the ledge on the right (climbing direct up the crumbling dirt not recommended!). Climb through the bulge on hollow sounding rock (poor gear) to stance and horizontal crack (good cams). Now commit to the gritstone like daunting arete above on small edges to eventual bomber wire and jug. Clean undies and continue up seam to large ledge below corner. Medium cam belay.

  2. 17m (17) Continue up double crack corner above past wide flake (loose rock) to trad belay.

88
22 *** Rape and Romance Trad 35m

The RP seam crack at the crux provides some real mental stimulation. One of the best wall routes at Kaputar, with a real Moonarie feel in the lower-half. Starts 2m left of Malice Through the Looking Glass. Climb flakes for 10m to seam. Fill it with as many tiny wires as you can then launch boldy up face on good holds to better protection. Finish up quality handcrack to trad belay.

89

Initialed. The fused corner 10 metres right of Bridge Over Troubled Waters. Excellent technical stemming (and spaced fiddly gear) to halfway ledge - then easier wide crack climbing above (large cams very useful).

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1979

90
19 * The Orgasmotron Sport 30m

Arete 1m to the right

91
92
16 * Before the Flood Unknown 30m
93
18 Isis Unknown 30m
94
17 * Blood on the Tracks Unknown 30m
95
19 * Lusty Lunge Unknown 25m
96
19 The Vice Unknown 35m
97
17 Level Crossing Unknown 40m
98
23 Slashing Rain Sport 25m

FHs to chains with one small wire needed. Climb yellow face past bolts then left through roof and over grey rock (wire) to ledge

FA: Howe & Barley, 2007

100
19 The Fifteen Per Cent Unknown 30m
101
17 ** The Fantastic Four Unknown 30m
102
18 * The Last Waltz Sport 30m

Loose rock, and the 5th Hanger has a dodgy expansion bolt. The sleeve half out under hanger. Poor bolting

103
23 *** Ring Bolted Face Unknown 30m

Ring bolted route. Arete and face.

104
21 Raiders in theRain Trad 20m

The direct start to the crack of Pink Slip. Step off block up face past 3 bolts then into thin crack

FA: robin Barley & John Howe, 2007

105
23 * Pink Slip Unknown 30m
106
18 ** Revival Trad 30m

Originally initialled - may still be visible. At righthand end of terrace.

  1. Up wall to mantleshelf on right, then into corner and up.

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1977

107
23 * Antipodean Tippler Sport 30m

Start down, right of Revival. Follow bolts up yellow rock through overlap just left of arête to chains

FA: mick Hafner & Robin Barley, 2008

108
19 Stress Factor Unknown 25m
109
19 Cold Comfort Trad 32m

Initialed

110
15 ** Incognito Unknown 17m
111
20 Quattro Trad 30m

On south face, 2m left of IT starting at ground. Climb brown groove then up left side of pillar into rounded hand crack. Bolts and gear to #4.

FA: robin Barley & John Howe, 2009

112
22 * Immaculate temptress Sport 20m

Starts on top of pointed boulder and heads to chain belay after surmounting large block, going up its right side.

FA: penny Cooper, John Howe & Robin Barley, 2009

113
21 AID:A0 * Lonely Planet Sport 30m

Start on top of knobbly ramp 10 m left of DOS. Head left across wall then up face. An aid bolt just before crack up high helps get into crack. A #3 cam can be helpful above last bolt. Chain belay. Would probably go free at 25.

FA: john Fantini & Robin Barley, 2009

114
22 ** Dreams of Solitude Sport 30m

The left of 2 seams in an alcove with orange rock ."22" chiselled at base. Head out onto arête when out of groove, then back right on face to shared anchor with the 23.

FA: john Fantini & Robin Barley, 2009

115
23 ** You'll be right Mate Sport 30m

The right of the seams in the orange alcove. Up steeply then right onto face and back left over small roof to shared anchors. "23" chiselled at base.

FA: John Fantini & Robin Barley, 2009

116
18 Old Cocks Crack Trad 27m

Gear to chains up left side of face

FA: Robin Barley, 2009

117
19 * Pennywise Sport 30m

Climb up pedestal and ascend knobbly bulge then right on grey rock

FA: john Howe, Penny Cooper & Robin Barley, 2009

118
19 Worrisome Trad 30m

Gear to bolts and chains shared with P. start behind eucalypt just right of block and up wide crack

FA: Robin Barley, 2009

119
7 Solo Route Unknown 30m
120
22 * Ay Carumba Unknown 25m

Activity

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