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Summary

Good quality rock with mostly single pitch routes. Unfortunately retro bolted into anodyne sports routes, a situation that won't last.

Description

A ten minute walk over a bare alpine plateau takes you to Lindesay Rock Tops cliff edge, where most of the climbs are concentrated around the look-out. Confusingly, there are two peaks by the name of Mt. Lind(e)say in the park. This one is the easily accessible one.

Access issues

Do not retro bolt existing routes, and do not bolt next to trad placements. Kaputar has a long history of trad climbing with supplemental bolts and new routers should consider this during development. Kaputar is a national park and vegetation must not be damaged.

Approach

800m on easy terrain. Walk along the track towards Lindesay Rock Tops. Follow the yellow reflectors about halfway across the Rock Tops and down depression in the rock top. As you start to come up the depression head left following the cairns down sloped terrain. When you see two small pinnacles, you've arrived at the start. The north wall consists of routes from Salad Days to Night Moves. The wall the changes direction and becomes the East wall which runs all the way down to the striking corner of Beat on The Brat.

Ethic

The 1993 Kaputar guide lists many trad climbs, but unfortunately someone has retro bolted almost all of the north face routes between 2012-16. This has been progressive along the cliff. The retro bolting has been done with ugly large fixed hangers. Many climbers feel that these routes should not be retro bolted, but as of May 2016 no action has been taken. Since 2014 Robin Barley has been putting up new routes along the east face. These are on camouflaged black hangers, and many routes are mixed, in keeping with the Kaputar trad ethic. He is definitely not responsible for the retro bolting. An effort has been made to document the new "unknown" climbs which in many cases also effectively retro-bolt existing climbs - these have been given arbitrary names ending in "bble" as "unknown 1,2, 3" etc just seems boring. The retro bolter appears to be Herb Brandmeier from Brisbane. It is likely many bolts and the painted grades will disappear in the next 12 months if climbers opposed to this ugly development can get time to fix it

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The first section of cliff you come to immediately after a couple of short free standing columns. Perfect winter morning crag.

The first climb on the crag.

FA: Ian Brown (solo), 1982

The insanely knobby rib to highly suspect shared lower offs with Salad Days.

FA: Ian Brown (solo), 1982

Up the dyke and knobbly knobs. A great climb to hone your chicken head slinging technique.

Feels more like a grade 8.

The clean square cut corner groove 5m left of 'Thanks for the Mammaries'.

FA: Ian Brown (solo), 1981

Up the rounded buttress 2m left of 'Short Shrift' to lower offs.

FA: Ian Brown (solo), 1982

Up the face 2m left of 'Deep Water'.

FA: Unknown

Up knobs then the thin crack which starts at about 3m high.

FA: Giles Bradbury & Mal Johnson, 1980

Climbs the arete between Torpid and Pork Orgy past 6 fixed hangers.

Maybe about grade 19 if you climb the arete proper (16 if you move off the arete and onto Torpid on the hardish move near the bottom).

FA: Unknown

Up the retro-bolted wall. The retro bolt has turned this into a bland pig.

FA: Phil Parker & Paul Colyvan, 1984

The original guide book really doesn't rate this climb: "Terrible. Suspect rock, poor position and abysmal protection". Up the groove. Try not to fall into the gully.

FA: Ian Brown & Stuart Wilson, 1982

Up the knobbly narrow buttress to chains.

FA: Ian Brown (solo), 1982

Up overhanging left side of arete. Start: 1m left of 'Miss Muffet'

FA: Unknown

After 100m the cliff line kinks facing east and is shadier. Parts of this face can stay damp.

Some face moves lead to a very nice crack.

Start: The first decent crack line from the right hand end of the cliff (facing the wall), guarded by a large eucalypt.

FA: Giles Bradbury & Mal Johnson, 1980

Up the retro-bolted arete.

The corner crack left of 'Mis Taken'.

FA: Mal Johnson & Giles Bradbury, 1980

Up the left side of the arete.

Start: The arete left of 'Mis Led'

FA: Anthony Brennan & Peter Morrotsey, 1989

Up the wall.

Start: 3m downhill and left of 'The Hippy Hippy Shake'

FA: Unknown

The bulging wall and incipient crack above. Start: 0.5m left of "Jubble"

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1981

Up easy wall to chains.

Start: 0.5 left of 'Sanity Clause'

FA: Unknown

Up the groove.

Start: Just behind the white Gum Tree

FA: Ian Brown, 1982

Up steep knobbly groove 1m left of 'Rack and Ruin'. Left to nose and up. Trend left at top to chains.

FA: Ian Brown, 1983

Up the steepish wall trending right towards the nose, then up and left to the chains.

Start: Just behind the big Gum Tree.

FA: Unknown

Up through bulge at 5m then into groove and up.

Start: Just right of 'Blubble'

FA: Ian Brown & Greg Croft, 1982

Up the blunt arete.

Start: Just right of the pyramid shaped rock.

FA: Unknown

Up black streak just left of pyramid shaped rock.

The new route that finishes left has effectively retro-bolted the lower half of this route.

FA: Ian Brown, Justin Gouvernet & Warwick Payten, 1982

Effectively a retro-bolt of 'Easing into Midnight', which finishes left up the nose.

Start: As for 'Easing into Midnight'

FA: Unknown

UP 'Back Roads' for a couple of moves, then right and up wall (BR) to groove.

FA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1987

A retro-bolted zig-zag line that up small black holds, right across slab to corner then back left and up wall to chains.

Start: 3m left of 'Easing Into Midnight'

FA: Ian Brown & Stuart Wilson, 1982

Up the slab and nose to shared anchors with 'Back Roads'

Start: 1m left of 'Back Roads'.

Up the left-leaning groove 4m left of 'Back Roads'.

Has sprouted 3 new FHs up high.

FA: Ian Brown & Warwick Payten, 1983

Up through bulge then thin crack up wall (2BRs) to chains.

Start: 4m left of 'The Idle Rich'

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1985

Up corner on the right side of the roof and continue up. Run-out and scary?

Start: 2m left of 'That Old Soft Shoe'

FA: Ian Brown & Stephen Percival, 1983

Start as for 'Nijinsky' up black knobbly rock into corner at 6m. Good runners under roof. Up then left to nose and up (poor pro) to good crack and chains.

FA: Ian Brown & Stuart Wilson, 1982

Up as for 'Winter Cruise' then head right over bulge taking care to not pull too hard on the detached block. Up slab and crack to chains.

FA: Unknown

Up left side of roof through cracked bulge to slab below second roof. Left across hanging slab to crack. Up, left to second crack and up.

FA: Ian Brown & Stuart Wilson, 1982

Hmmm. 12 bolts in 27m - maybe slightly over bolted?

Start as for 'Winter Cruise' and traverse left under bulges then up over bulge and grope for the massive chipped hold at the back. Up to slab then traverse left and up final slab.

FA: Unknown Overbolting Chippers

Looks like this partially retro-bolts the top half of 'Morning Glory'.

Start: Just to the right of 'Morning Glory'.

FA: Unknown

Up knobs for 5m to bulge in solid yellow rock right of 1m roof. Right and up interesting crackless corner and wall.

Start: 15m left of 'Winter Cruise' at the highest point of ground.

FA: Ian Brown & Warwick Payten, 1982

Up knobs for 5m to roof, pull round left and up to easier territory.

Start: As for 'Morning Glory'

FA: Ian Brown & Warwick Payten, 1982

4m left of 'Morning Glory' and 2m right of 'Abraxas' . Up black knobs, through A-shaped groove through roof (small wires and micro cams). Then up slab delicately following blind seam (no more natural pro past top of overhang).

FA: Brad Taylor, Clive Murphy & Linguistic Stu, 2005

Up short slab 6m left of 'Morning Glory' then left around overhang and up cracks on right.

FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvernet, 1982

Up face 2m left of 'Abraxas' to lovely crack.

FA: Ian Brown, Warwick Payten & Stuart Wilson, 1981

A black groove which curves left into a channel-shaped line. Up the brown wall left of the groove then into the channel.

Start: 5m down left of 'Madrigal'.

FA: Ian Brown (solo), 1982

Start: To the left and down from 'Troubadour' at black chimney with 19 painted at base. Moves through small overlap at 5 m. Upper bolts in stacked blocks, common anchor with 18 to the left.

FA: Unknown

Up the nose through the overlap, then continue up the nose. Has 18 painted at base. Shares anchor with 19 to the right.

Start: 1m right of 'Darkangel'

FA: Unknown

Marked as "D". Now has 18 written in paint 50 cm above. Up the right leaning black groove 4m left of 'Troubadour', through bulge finishing on either side of bush at top. The bolts take you left. Fully retro bolted to DBB. Was originally a bold climb with little decent gear until 2/3 height. Now it has bolts the grade has gone up.

FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvernet, 1982

Beginner offwidthing. Go left before bulge and up to off-width pillar. Remember to grunt a lot.

FA: Iam Browm (solo), 1982

Straight up the wall following the line of FHs staying left. The bolts are a retro bolt of Dark Angel. Unfortunately it has largely retro bolted this bold route as well and makes it feel contrived. The original bolt and Petzl FH is still there.

Start: As for 'Darkangel'.

FA: Anthony Brennan, 1987

Up left edge of narrow, semi-detached buttress, then move left to front when the difficulties start. The buttress is visible 10 m left from where the cliff drops down in a gully formed by a large boulder 5 m back from the face. This route has been mostly retro bolted and 19 written in white paint at he start

Start: 9m down from 'Darkangel'.

FA: Ian Brown & Warwick Payten, 1982

Up sharp edge 1m left of 'Warlock', left into corner crack and up. Left around roof into good crack to finish. Has been retro bolted and 19 painted at base.

FA: Ian Brown & Warwick Payten, 1982

Bridge up the black groove to difficult climbing through bulge. Move into the right hand crack above the blocks.

Start: 5m left of 'Caliban'.

FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvernet, 1982

Climb crack on left side of slab left of 'Black Pearl' for a few metres, then up and right via blind corner to stance. Up and back left (crux) to roof. Traverse right onto large block, step round left into crack-line and up.

FA: Anthony Brennan, 1987

Start as for Herbert's dog leg with 18 painted on the rock, 8 m right of where rock changes direction to east face. Use the first few bolts if you want, though there is gear, then go direct up the nose with excellent gear on the left, and continue up good cracks to a vegetated finish as for HDL to DBB

A big 18 is painted on rock, 8 m right of east face . Follow bolts, stepping weirdly left then up and back right before a final thrutch through vegetation to DBB.

FA: herbert from Queenland

Appears to be retro bolted on ring bolts. The route 5m right of where the cliff turns from north to east facing. A small square is just visible from original markings but 17 has been painted in white paint over a scratched 17 in the rock. Start up groove and keep following bolts to flake. Interesting climbing.

FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvernet, 1981

5m left of 'Night Moves' where arête signals change in direction of cliff. Climb right facing groove, trending left to arête and up crack to finish at chain anchor.

FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori 2013, 2013

The first route on the east face. Start up face just right of column and wide crack where it meets cliff. Angle up face going right, then up to shared anchors with 'Opening on the Eastern Front'. Camouflage black 8mm expansion bolts and hangers. Was originally done with one point of aid, but this has been eliminated. Someone has written '24' at base in white paint. It's not.

FA: robin Barley, 2013

Start just left of where blocks obstruct walkway.

  1. 20m (17) Step off boulder into hand rack then right into right facing dihedral, up to ledge and DBB.

  2. 20m (20) with 2 points of aid on 2nd and 3rd bolt. Up dihedral.

FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori, 2013

Bolts and gear to 3 inch. To belay chains. Start steeply past 2 bolts up right side of overhanging bay 10m left of 'The Sunlit Plains Extended'. Gain prominent dihedral past a sapling.

FA: Robin Barley, 2013

10m L of 'Wondrous Beauty'. Sustained steep face climbing.

FA: Robin Barley, 2013

50m left of start of east face.

  1. 30m (18).

  2. 15m (20).

FA: Robin Barley, 2014

150m left of 'Barely Credible' there are 4 routes on black weathered rock where a large gum is close to the cliff. This is the left route. 16 initialled in rock. Mixed. Move left under roof to chains

FA: Robin Barley, 2014

The central line in an attractive groove

FA: Robin Barley, 2014

The left line up another groove

FA: robin Barley, 2014

Partially bolted hanging crack 1m left of 'Capricious'. May still be a project.

FA: Robin Barley, 2014

  1. 25m (17) Up orange rock, left and up to knobby black patch. Swing right into leaning groove and up to stance with at vines.

  2. 30m Up grassy crack to corner, 2m right of scrubby line above. Finish with an airy layback up the righthand crack of the two.

Start: About 100m left of 'Night Moves' is a 20m wide wall with a watery corner on the right and an arete on the left. Start at a cairn 5m right of the arete.

FA: Ian Brown, Justin Gouvernet & Stuart Wilson, 1981

  1. 35m Up 'Soft Option' pitch one, then scrubby line above for 1-2m and 5m into next crack-line.

  2. 25m Pleasant crack and corner.

Start: As for 'Soft Option'.

FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvernet, 1982

An intro to Chimney-jamming. Bridge the clefts at top right of ferned gully which splits the face around left of 'Soft Option'.

FA: Joe Friend (solo), 1970

A mega-classic. The vertical open-book corner at the far left hand end of the crag. Fingery at first widening to fists.

FA: Giles Bradbury & Mal Johnson, 1980

Activity

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