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Summary

Great quality sport routes with a short walk in.

Description

A ten minute walk over a bare alpine plateau takes you to Lindesay Rock Tops cliff edge, where most of the climbs are concentrated around the look-out. Confusingly, there are two peaks by the name of Mt. Lind(e)say in the park. This one is the easily accessible one.

Approach

800m on easy terrain. Walk along the track towards Lindesay Rock Tops. Follow the yellow reflectors about halfway across the Rock Tops and then head left following the cairns down a gully or sloped terrain. When you see two small pinnacles, you've arrived at the start. The north wall consists of routes from Salad Days to Night Moves. The wall the changes direction and becomes the East wall which runs all the way down to the striking corner of Beat on The Brat.

Ethic

The 1993 Kaputar guide lists many trad climbs, but unfortunately someone has retro bolted almost all of the north face routes between 2012-16. This has been progressive along the cliff. The retro bolting has been done with ugly large fixed hangers. Many climbers feel that these routes should not be retro bolted, but as of May 2016 no action has been taken. Since 2014 Robin Barley has been putting up new routes along the east face. These are on camouflaged black hangers, and many routes are mixed, in keeping with the Kaputar trad ethic. He is definitely not responsible for the retro bolting.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

North face

The first section of cliff you come to immediately after a couple of short free standing columns. Perfect winter morning crag.

1
11 ** Salad Days Sport 15m

The first climb on the crag.

FA: Ian Brown (solo), 1982

2

The insanely knobby rib to highly suspect shared lower offs with Salad Days.

FA: Ian Brown (solo), 1982

3
12 * Self-abuse Trad 18m

Up the dyke and knobbly knobs. A great climb to hone your chicken head slinging technique.

Feels more like a grade 8.

4
11 ** Short Shrift Trad 15m

The clean square cut corner groove 5m left of 'Thanks for the Mammaries'.

FA: Ian Brown (solo), 1981

5
14 * Deep Water Sport 15m

Up the rounded buttress 2m left of Short Shrift to lower offs.

FA: Ian Brown (solo), 1982

6
19 ** Unknown Sport 15m, 6

Up the face 2m left of 'Deep Water'.

7
15 * Torpid Mixed 15m, 2

Up knobs then the thin crack which starts at about 3m high.

FA: Giles Bradbury & Mal Johnson, 1980

8

Climbs the arete between Torpid and Pork Orgy past 6 fixed hangers.

Maybe about grade 19 if you climb the arete proper (16 if you move off the arete and onto Torpid on the hardish move near the bottom).

9
21 ** Pork Orgy Sport 15m, 7

Up the retro-bolted wall.

FA: Phil Parker & Paul Colyvan, 1984

10

The original guide book really doesn't rate this climb: "Terrible. Suspect rock, poor position and abysmal protection". Up the groove. Try not to fall into the gully.

FA: Ian Brown & Stuart Wilson, 1982

11
13 * Miss Muffet Sport 18m, 5

Up the knobbly narrow buttress to chains.

FA: Ian Brown (solo), 1982

12
21 ** Unknown 21 Sport 12m, 6

Up overhanging left side of arete. Start: 1m left of 'Miss Muffet'

East face

After 100m the cliff line kinks facing east and is shadier. Parts of this face can stay damp.

13
19 ** Mis Taken Trad 18m

Some face moves lead to a very nice crack.

Start: The first decent crack line from the right hand end of the cliff (facing the wall), guarded by a large eucalypt.

FA: Giles Bradbury & Mal Johnson, 1980

14
22 ** Slip, Slop, Slap Sport 20m, 4

Up the retro-bolted arete.

15
19 ** Mis Led Trad 18m

The corner crack left of 'Mis Taken'.

FA: Mal Johnson & Giles Bradbury, 1980

16
21 ** The Hippy Hippy Shake Sport 18m, 6

Up the left side of the arete.

Start: The arete left of 'Mis Led'

FA: Anthony Brennan & Peter Morrotsey, 1989

17
18 * Unknown 18 Sport 15m, 6

Up the wall.

Start: 3m downhill and left of 'The Hippy Hippy Shake'

18
19 Sanity Clause Trad 20m

The bulging wall and incipient crack above. Start: 0.5m left of "Unknown 18"

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1981

19
17 ** Unknown 16+ Sport 20m, 6

Marked "16+". Has chain anchor. Start: 0.5 left of 'Sanity Clause'

20
19 * Rack and Ruin Mixed 20m, 3

Up the groove.

Start: Just behind the white Gum Tree

FA: Ian Brown, 1982

21
18 ** Gobbledegook Mixed 22m, 8

Up steep knobbly groove 1m left of 'Rack and Ruin'. Left to nose and up. Trend left at top to chains.

FA: Ian Brown, 1983

22
18 ** Another Unknown 18 Sport 25m, 7

Up the steepish wall trending right towards the nose, then up and left to the chains.

Start: Just behind the big Gum Tree.

23
19 Age of Reason Mixed 25m, 6

Up through bulge at 5m then into groove and up.

Start: Just right of 'Unknown 19'

FA: Ian Brown & Greg Croft, 1982

24
19 Unknown 19 Sport 25m, 8

Up the blunt arete.

Start: Just right of the pyramid shaped rock.

25
21 ** Easing Into Midnight Sport 25m, 8

Up black streak just left of pyramid shaped rock.

FA: Ian Brown, Justin Gouvernet & Warwick Payten, 1982

26
23 * Mungindi Glove Trad 25m
27
16 Back Roads Trad 24m
28
20 * The Idle Rich Trad 25m
29
23 * That Old Soft Shoe Trad 25m
30
20 * Nijinsky Trad 28m
31
17 Deadly Nightshade Trad 24m
32
18 Winter Cruise Trad 27m
33
20 Swingtime Trad 20m
34
16 Morning Glory Trad 20m
35

4m L of Morning Glory & 2m R of Abraxis. Up black knobs, through A-shaped groove through roof (small wires and micro cams). Then up slab delicately following blind seam (no more natural pro past top of overhang).

FA: Brad Taylor, Clive Murphy & Linguistic Stu, 2005

36
13 ** Abraxas Trad 22m
37
14 ** Madrigal Trad 20m
38
12 Troubadour Trad 22m
39
15 Darkangel Trad 24m
40
15 Darkangel Variant Trad 28m
41
21 * Bananas in Pyjamas Trad 25m
42
16 * Warlock Trad 25m
43
17 Caliban Trad 30m
44
18 ** Black Pearl Trad 37m
45
20 * Arachnids Trad 30m
46
15 ** Night Moves Trad 35m

Appears to be retro bolted on ring bolts. The route 5m right of where the cliff turns from north to east facing

47

5m left of night moves where arête signals change in direction of cliff. Climb R facing groove, trending left to arête and up crack to finish at chain anchor.

FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori 2013, 2013

48

The first route on the east face. Start up face just right of column and wide crack where it meets cliff. Angle up face going right, then up to shared anchors with OTEF. Camouflage black 8mm expansion bolts and hangers. Was originally done with one point of aid, but this has been eliminated

FA: robin Barley, 2013

49

Start just left of where blocks obstruct walkway. Pitch 1. 20 m 17, step off boulder into hand rack then right into R facing dihedral, up to ledge and DBB. Pitch 2 20m 20 with 2 points of aid on 2 and 3rd bolt. Up dihedral.

FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori, 2013

50
19 Wondrous Beauty Trad 45m

Bolts and gear to 3 inch. To belay chains. Start steeply past 2 bolts up right side of overhanging bay 10 m left of SPE. Gain prominent dihedral past a sapling

FA: Robin Barley, 2013

51
20 Everlasting Stars Sport 35m

10m L of WB. Sustained steep face climbing.

FA: Robin Barley, 2013

52
20 Barely Credible Sport 45m, 18

50m left of start of east face. Pitch 1 18, 30 m. Pitch 215m, 20

FA: Robin Barley, 2014

53
16 Whimsical Ways Trad 30m

150 m left of BC there are 4 routes on black weathered rock where a large gum is close to the cliff. This is the left route. 16 initialled in rock. Mixed. Move left under roof to chains

FA: Robin Barley, 2014

54
18 Fanciful Sport 30m

The central line in an attractive groove

FA: Robin Barley, 2014

55
18 * Capricious Sport 30m

The left line up another groove

FA: robin Barley, 2014

56

Partially bolted hanging crack 1 m left of C. MAy still be a project.

FA: Robin Barley, 2014

57
17 Soft Option Trad 55m
58
17 Lichen Delight Trad 60m
59
10 Dicksonia Trad 30m
60
20 *** Beat on the Brat Trad 25m

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