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Description

A ten minute walk over a bare alpine plateau takes you to Mt Lindesay's cliff edge, where most of the climbs are concentrated aroud the look-out. Confusingly, there are two peaks by the name of Mt. Lind(e)say in the park. This one is the easily accessible one.

© (koala)

Approach

<1 km on easy terrain. Walk along the track towards Mt. Lindesay. Follow the yellow reflectors about halfway across the alpine plateau and then head left down a gulley or sloped terrain. When you see two small pinnacles, you've arrived at the start. The north wall consists of routes from Salad Days to night Moves. The wall the changes direction and becomes the East wall which runs all the way down to the striking corner of Beat on The Brat.

© (koala)

Ethic

The 1993 Kaputar guide lists many trad climbs, but unfortunately someone has retro bolted almost all of the north face routes between 2012-16. This has been progressive along the cliff. The retro bolting has been done with ugly large fixed hangers. Many climbers feel that these routes should not be retro bolted, but as of May 2016 no action has been taken. Since 2014 Robin Barley has been putting up new routes along the east face. These are on camouflaged black hangers, and many routes are mixed, in keeping with the Kaputar trad ethic. He is definitely not responsible for the retro bolting.

© (koala)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
11 * Salad Days Sport 15m

As of 2016, this appears to have been bolted.

3
12 * Self-abuse Sport 18m
4
11 ** Short Shrift Sport 15m
5
14 Deep Water Sport 15m
6
15 * Torpid Sport 15m
7

Climbs the arete between Torpid and Pork Orgy past 6 fixed hangers.

Maybe about grade 19 if you climb the arete proper (16 if you move off the arete and onto Torpid on the hardish move near the bottom).

8
21 * Pork Orgy Trad 15m
10
13 Miss Muffet Trad 18m
11
19 * Mis Taken Trad 18m

Some face moves lead to a very nice crack.

Start: The first decent crack line from the right hand end of the cliff (facing the wall), guarded by a large eucalypt.

FA: Giles Bradbury & Mal Johnson, 1980

12
22 ** Slip, Slop, Slap Trad 20m
13
19 * Mis Led Trad 18m

The corner crack left of 'Mis Taken'.

FA: Mal Johnson & Giles Bradbury, 1980

14

Across from 'Mis Led' - the left side of the arete. Now with four fixed hangers.

FA: Anthony Brennan & Peter Morrotsey, 1989

15
17 "Unknown 16+" Sport 20m

Marked "16+". Has chain anchor.

16
18 "Unknown 18" Sport 20m

Bolted climb marked "18". Has chain anchor. L of the one marked "16+". Difficult to determine where it is in relation to the 80's trad routes.

17
19 Sanity Clause Trad 20m
18
19 Rack and Ruin Trad 23m
19
18 Gobbledegook Trad 22m
20
19 Age of Reason Trad 25m
21
22
23 * Mungindi Glove Trad 25m
23
16 Back Roads Trad 24m
24
20 * The Idle Rich Trad 25m
25
23 * That Old Soft Shoe Trad 25m
26
20 * Nijinsky Trad 28m
27
17 Deadly Nightshade Trad 24m
28
18 Winter Cruise Trad 27m
29
20 Swingtime Trad 20m
30
16 Morning Glory Trad 20m
31

4m L of Morning Glory & 2m R of Abraxis. Up black knobs, through A-shaped groove through roof (small wires and micro cams). Then up slab delicately following blind seam (no more natural pro past top of overhang).

FA: Brad Taylor, Clive Murphy & Linguistic Stu, 2005

32
13 Abraxas Trad 22m
33
14 * Madrigal Trad 20m
34
12 Troubadour Trad 22m
35
15 Darkangel Trad 24m
36
15 Darkangel Variant Trad 28m
37
21 * Bananas in Pyjamas Trad 25m
38
16 * Warlock Trad 25m
39
17 Caliban Trad 30m
40
18 ** Black Pearl Trad 37m
41
20 * Arachnids Trad 30m
42
15 ** Night Moves Trad 35m

Appears to be retro bolted on ring bolts. The route 5m right of where the cliff turns from north to east facing

43

5m left of night moves where arête signals change in direction of cliff. Climb R facing groove, trending left to arête and up crack to finish at chain anchor.

FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori 2013, 2013

44

The first route on the east face. Start up face just right of column and wide crack where it meets cliff. Angle up face going right, then up to shared anchors with OTEF. Camouflage black 8mm expansion bolts and hangers. Was originally done with one point of aid, but this has been eliminated

FA: robin Barley, 2013

45

Start just left of where blocks obstruct walkway. Pitch 1. 20 m 17, step off boulder into hand rack then right into R facing dihedral, up to ledge and DBB. Pitch 2 20m 20 with 2 points of aid on 2 and 3rd bolt. Up dihedral.

FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori, 2013

46
19 Wondrous Beauty Trad 45m

Bolts and gear to 3 inch. To belay chains. Start steeply past 2 bolts up right side of overhanging bay 10 m left of SPE. Gain prominent dihedral past a sapling

FA: Robin Barley, 2013

47
20 Everlasting Stars Sport 35m

10m L of WB. Sustained steep face climbing.

FA: Robin Barley, 2013

48
20 Barely Credible Sport 45m, 18

50m left of start of east face. Pitch 1 18, 30 m. Pitch 215m, 20

FA: Robin Barley, 2014

49
16 Whimsical Ways Trad 30m

150 m left of BC there are 4 routes on black weathered rock where a large gum is close to the cliff. This is the left route. 16 initialled in rock. Mixed. Move left under roof to chains

FA: Robin Barley, 2014

50
18 Fanciful Sport 30m

The central line in an attractive groove

FA: Robin Barley, 2014

51
18 Capricious Sport 30m

The left line up another groove

FA: robin Barley, 2014

52

Partially bolted hanging crack 1 m left of C. MAy still be a project.

FA: Robin Barley, 2014

53
17 Soft Option Trad 55m
54
17 Lichen Delight Trad 60m
55
10 Dicksonia Trad 30m
56
20 *** Beat on the Brat Trad 25m

Activity

Check out what is happening in Mt Lindesay.