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Great quality sport routes with a short walk in.


A ten minute walk over a bare alpine plateau takes you to Lindesay Rock Tops cliff edge, where most of the climbs are concentrated around the look-out. Confusingly, there are two peaks by the name of Mt. Lind(e)say in the park. This one is the easily accessible one.


800m on easy terrain. Walk along the track towards Lindesay Rock Tops. Follow the yellow reflectors about halfway across the Rock Tops and then head left following the cairns down a gully or sloped terrain. When you see two small pinnacles, you've arrived at the start. The north wall consists of routes from Salad Days to Night Moves. The wall the changes direction and becomes the East wall which runs all the way down to the striking corner of Beat on The Brat.


The 1993 Kaputar guide lists many trad climbs, but unfortunately someone has retro bolted almost all of the north face routes between 2012-16. This has been progressive along the cliff. The retro bolting has been done with ugly large fixed hangers. Many climbers feel that these routes should not be retro bolted, but as of May 2016 no action has been taken. Since 2014 Robin Barley has been putting up new routes along the east face. These are on camouflaged black hangers, and many routes are mixed, in keeping with the Kaputar trad ethic. He is definitely not responsible for the retro bolting. An effort has been made to document the new "unknown" climbs which in many cases also effectively retro-bolt existing climbs - these have been given arbitrary names ending in "bble" as "unknown 1,2, 3" etc just seems boring, if the retro-bolters fess up then maybe they can amend the route names and clean up their mess.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

North face

The first section of cliff you come to immediately after a couple of short free standing columns. Perfect winter morning crag.

11 ** Salad Days Sport 15m

The first climb on the crag.

FA: Ian Brown (solo), 1982


The insanely knobby rib to highly suspect shared lower offs with Salad Days.

FA: Ian Brown (solo), 1982

12 * Self-abuse Trad 18m

Up the dyke and knobbly knobs. A great climb to hone your chicken head slinging technique.

Feels more like a grade 8.

11 ** Short Shrift Trad 15m

The clean square cut corner groove 5m left of 'Thanks for the Mammaries'.

FA: Ian Brown (solo), 1981

14 * Deep Water Sport 15m, 5

Up the rounded buttress 2m left of 'Short Shrift' to lower offs.

FA: Ian Brown (solo), 1982

19 ** Slabble Sport 15m, 6

Up the face 2m left of 'Deep Water'.

FA: Unknown

15 * Torpid Mixed 15m, 2

Up knobs then the thin crack which starts at about 3m high.

FA: Giles Bradbury & Mal Johnson, 1980

19 ** Wabble Sport 15m, 6

Climbs the arete between Torpid and Pork Orgy past 6 fixed hangers.

Maybe about grade 19 if you climb the arete proper (16 if you move off the arete and onto Torpid on the hardish move near the bottom).

FA: Unknown

21 ** Pork Orgy Sport 15m, 7

Up the retro-bolted wall.

FA: Phil Parker & Paul Colyvan, 1984


The original guide book really doesn't rate this climb: "Terrible. Suspect rock, poor position and abysmal protection". Up the groove. Try not to fall into the gully.

FA: Ian Brown & Stuart Wilson, 1982

13 * Miss Muffet Sport 18m, 5

Up the knobbly narrow buttress to chains.

FA: Ian Brown (solo), 1982

21 ** Aretabble Sport 12m, 6

Up overhanging left side of arete. Start: 1m left of 'Miss Muffet'

FA: Unknown

East face

After 100m the cliff line kinks facing east and is shadier. Parts of this face can stay damp.

19 ** Mis Taken Trad 18m

Some face moves lead to a very nice crack.

Start: The first decent crack line from the right hand end of the cliff (facing the wall), guarded by a large eucalypt.

FA: Giles Bradbury & Mal Johnson, 1980

22 ** Slip, Slop, Slap Sport 20m, 4

Up the retro-bolted arete.

19 ** Mis Led Trad 18m

The corner crack left of 'Mis Taken'.

FA: Mal Johnson & Giles Bradbury, 1980

21 ** The Hippy Hippy Shake Sport 18m, 6

Up the left side of the arete.

Start: The arete left of 'Mis Led'

FA: Anthony Brennan & Peter Morrotsey, 1989

18 * Jubble Sport 15m, 6

Up the wall.

Start: 3m downhill and left of 'The Hippy Hippy Shake'

FA: Unknown

19 ** Sanity Clause Trad 20m

The bulging wall and incipient crack above. Start: 0.5m left of "Jubble"

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1981

17 ** Wobble Sport 20m, 6

Up easy wall to chains.

Start: 0.5 left of 'Sanity Clause'

FA: Unknown

19 * Rack and Ruin Mixed 20m, 3

Up the groove.

Start: Just behind the white Gum Tree

FA: Ian Brown, 1982

18 ** Gobbledegook Mixed 22m, 8

Up steep knobbly groove 1m left of 'Rack and Ruin'. Left to nose and up. Trend left at top to chains.

FA: Ian Brown, 1983

18 ** Noseabble Sport 25m, 7

Up the steepish wall trending right towards the nose, then up and left to the chains.

Start: Just behind the big Gum Tree.

FA: Unknown

19 Age of Reason Mixed 25m, 6

Up through bulge at 5m then into groove and up.

Start: Just right of 'Blubble'

FA: Ian Brown & Greg Croft, 1982

19 Blubble Sport 25m, 8

Up the blunt arete.

Start: Just right of the pyramid shaped rock.

FA: Unknown

21 ** Easing Into Midnight Mixed 25m, 5

Up black streak just left of pyramid shaped rock.

The new route that finishes left has effectively retro-bolted the lower half of this route.

FA: Ian Brown, Justin Gouvernet & Warwick Payten, 1982

21 Retrobble Sport 25m, 8

Effectively a retro-bolt of 'Easing into Midnight', which finishes left up the nose.

Start: As for 'Easing into Midnight'

FA: Unknown

23 * Mungindi Glove Mixed 25m, 1

UP 'Back Roads' for a couple of moves, then right and up wall (BR) to groove.

FA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1987

16 ** Back Roads Sport 24m, 8

A retro-bolted zig-zag line that up small black holds, right across slab to corner then back left and up wall to chains.

Start: 3m left of 'Easing Into Midnight'

FA: Ian Brown & Stuart Wilson, 1982

17 * Wibble Sport 25m, 7

Up the slab and nose to shared anchors with 'Back Roads'

Start: 1m left of 'Back Roads'.

20 * The Idle Rich Mixed 25m, 5

Up the left-leaning groove 4m left of 'Back Roads'.

Has sprouted 3 new FHs up high.

FA: Ian Brown & Warwick Payten, 1983

23 * That Old Soft Shoe Mixed 25m, 2

Up through bulge then thin crack up wall (2BRs) to chains.

Start: 4m left of 'The Idle Rich'

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1985

20 * Nijinsky Trad 28m

Up corner on the right side of the roof and continue up. Run-out and scary?

Start: 2m left of 'That Old Soft Shoe'

FA: Ian Brown & Stephen Percival, 1983

17 Deadly Nightshade Trad 24m

Start as for 'Nijinsky' up black knobbly rock into corner at 6m. Good runners under roof. Up then left to nose and up (poor pro) to good crack and chains.

FA: Ian Brown & Stuart Wilson, 1982

16 Bulgabble Sport 25m, 8

Up as for 'Winter Cruise' then head right over bulge taking care to not pull too hard on the detached block. Up slab and crack to chains.

FA: Unknown

18 Winter Cruise Trad 27m

Up left side of roof through cracked bulge to slab below second roof. Left across hanging slab to crack. Up, left to second crack and up.

FA: Ian Brown & Stuart Wilson, 1982

19 Chippabble Sport 27m, 12

Hmmm. 12 bolts in 27m - maybe slightly over bolted?

Start as for 'Winter Cruise' and traverse left under bulges then up over bulge and grope for the massive chipped hold at the back. Up to slab then traverse left and up final slab.

FA: Unknown Overbolting Chippers

Slababble Sport 6

Looks like this partially retro-bolts the top half of 'Morning Glory'.

Start: Just to the right of 'Morning Glory'.

FA: Unknown

16 Morning Glory Trad 20m

Up knobs for 5m to bulge in solid yellow rock right of 1m roof. Right and up interesting crackless corner and wall.

Start: 15m left of 'Winter Cruise' at the highest point of ground.

FA: Ian Brown & Warwick Payten, 1982

20 Swingtime Trad 20m

Up knobs for 5m to roof, pull round left and up to easier territory.

Start: As for 'Morning Glory'

FA: Ian Brown & Warwick Payten, 1982


4m left of 'Morning Glory' and 2m right of 'Abraxas' . Up black knobs, through A-shaped groove through roof (small wires and micro cams). Then up slab delicately following blind seam (no more natural pro past top of overhang).

FA: Brad Taylor, Clive Murphy & Linguistic Stu, 2005

13 ** Abraxas Trad 22m

Up short slab 6m left of 'Morning Glory' then left around overhang and up cracks on right.

FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvernet, 1982

14 ** Madrigal Trad 20m

Up face 2m left of 'Abraxas' to lovely crack.

FA: Ian Brown, Warwick Payten & Stuart Wilson, 1981

12 Troubadour Trad 22m

A black groove which curves left into a channel-shaped line. Up the brown wall left of the groove then into the channel.

Start: 5m down left of 'Madrigal'.

FA: Ian Brown (solo), 1982

Rabble Sport 25m, 6


Start: To the left of 'Troubadour'.

FA: Unknown

Scrabble Sport 25m, 6

Up the nose through the overlap, then continue up the nose.

Start: 1m right of 'Darkangel'

FA: Unknown

15 Darkangel Trad 24m

Marked. Up the right leaning black groove 4m left of 'Troubadour', through bulge finishing on either side of bush at top.

FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvernet, 1982

15 Darkangel Variant Trad 28m

Beginner offwidthing. Go left before bulge and up to off-width pillar. Remember to grunt a lot.

FA: Iam Browm (solo), 1982

21 * Bananas in Pyjamas Sport 25m, 8

Straight up the wall following the line of FHs.

Start: As for 'Darkangel'.

FA: Anthony Brennan, 1987

16 * Warlock Trad 25m

Up left edge of narrow, semi-detached buttress, then move left to front when the difficulties start.

Start: 9m down from 'Darkangel'.

FA: Ian Brown & Warwick Payten, 1982

17 Caliban Trad 30m

Up sharp edge 1m left of 'Warlock', left into corner crack and up. Left around roof into good crack to finish.

FA: Ian Brown & Warwick Payten, 1982

18 ** Black Pearl Trad 37m

Bridge up the black groove to difficult climbing through bulge. Move into the right hand crack above the blocks.

Start: 5m left of 'Caliban'.

FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvernet, 1982

20 * Arachnids Trad 30m

Climb crack on left side of slab left of 'Black Pearl' for a few metres, then up and right via blind corner to stance. Up and back left (crux) to roof. Traverse right onto large block, step round left into crack-line and up.

FA: Anthony Brennan, 1987

15 ** Night Moves Trad 35m

Appears to be retro bolted on ring bolts. The route 5m right of where the cliff turns from north to east facing

FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvernet, 1981


5m left of 'Night Moves' where arête signals change in direction of cliff. Climb right facing groove, trending left to arête and up crack to finish at chain anchor.

FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori 2013, 2013


The first route on the east face. Start up face just right of column and wide crack where it meets cliff. Angle up face going right, then up to shared anchors with 'Opening on the Eastern Front'. Camouflage black 8mm expansion bolts and hangers. Was originally done with one point of aid, but this has been eliminated.

FA: robin Barley, 2013

20 The Sunlit Plains Extended Mixed 40m, 2, 3

Start just left of where blocks obstruct walkway.

  1. 20m (17) Step off boulder into hand rack then right into right facing dihedral, up to ledge and DBB.

  2. 20m (20) with 2 points of aid on 2nd and 3rd bolt. Up dihedral.

FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori, 2013

19 Wondrous Beauty Mixed 45m, 2

Bolts and gear to 3 inch. To belay chains. Start steeply past 2 bolts up right side of overhanging bay 10m left of 'The Sunlit Plains Extended'. Gain prominent dihedral past a sapling.

FA: Robin Barley, 2013

20 Everlasting Stars Sport 35m

10m L of 'Wondrous Beauty'. Sustained steep face climbing.

FA: Robin Barley, 2013

20 Barely Credible Sport 45m, 2, 18

50m left of start of east face.

  1. 30m (18).

  2. 15m (20).

FA: Robin Barley, 2014

16 Whimsical Ways Trad 30m

150m left of 'Barely Credible' there are 4 routes on black weathered rock where a large gum is close to the cliff. This is the left route. 16 initialled in rock. Mixed. Move left under roof to chains

FA: Robin Barley, 2014

18 Fanciful Sport 30m

The central line in an attractive groove

FA: Robin Barley, 2014

18 * Capricious Sport 30m

The left line up another groove

FA: robin Barley, 2014


Partially bolted hanging crack 1m left of 'Capricious'. May still be a project.

FA: Robin Barley, 2014

17 Soft Option Trad 55m
  1. 25m (17) Up orange rock, left and up to knobby black patch. Swing right into leaning groove and up to stance with at vines.

  2. 30m Up grassy crack to corner, 2m right of scrubby line above. Finish with an airy layback up the righthand crack of the two.

Start: About 100m left of 'Night Moves' is a 20m wide wall with a watery corner on the right and an arete on the left. Start at a cairn 5m right of the arete.

FA: Ian Brown, Justin Gouvernet & Stuart Wilson, 1981

17 Lichen Delight Trad 60m, 2
  1. 35m Up 'Soft Option' pitch one, then scrubby line above for 1-2m and 5m into next crack-line.

  2. 25m Pleasant crack and corner.

Start: As for 'Soft Option'.

FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvernet, 1982

10 Dicksonia Trad 30m

An intro to Chimney-jamming. Bridge the clefts at top right of ferned gully which splits the face around left of 'Soft Option'.

FA: Joe Friend (solo), 1970

20 *** Beat on the Brat Trad 25m

A mega-classic. The vertical open-book corner at the far left hand end of the crag. Fingery at first widening to fists.

FA: Giles Bradbury & Mal Johnson, 1980


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