Lindsay Rock Tops Rock climbing69 routes in crag
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Good quality rock with mostly single pitch routes. Unfortunately retro bolted into anodyne sports routes, a situation that won't last.
A ten minute walk over a bare alpine plateau takes you to Lindesay Rock Tops cliff edge, where most of the climbs are concentrated around the look-out. Confusingly, there are two peaks by the name of Mt. Lind(e)say in the park. This one is the easily accessible one.
Do not retro bolt existing routes, and do not bolt next to trad placements. Kaputar has a long history of trad climbing with supplemental bolts and new routers should consider this during development. Kaputar is a national park and vegetation must not be damaged.
800m on easy terrain. Walk along the track towards Lindesay Rock Tops. Follow the yellow reflectors about halfway across the Rock Tops and down depression in the rock top. As you start to come up the depression head left following the cairns down sloped terrain. When you see two small pinnacles, you've arrived at the start. The north wall consists of routes from Salad Days to Night Moves. The wall the changes direction and becomes the East wall which runs all the way down to the striking corner of Beat on The Brat.
The 1993 Kaputar guide lists many trad climbs, but unfortunately someone has retro bolted almost all of the north face routes between 2012-16. This has been progressive along the cliff. The retro bolting has been done with ugly large fixed hangers. Many climbers feel that these routes should not be retro bolted, but as of May 2016 no action has been taken. Since 2014 Robin Barley has been putting up new routes along the east face. These are on camouflaged black hangers, and many routes are mixed, in keeping with the Kaputar trad ethic. He is definitely not responsible for the retro bolting. An effort has been made to document the new "unknown" climbs which in many cases also effectively retro-bolt existing climbs - these have been given arbitrary names ending in "bble" as "unknown 1,2, 3" etc just seems boring. The retro bolter appears to be Herb Brandmeier from Brisbane. It is likely many bolts and the painted grades will disappear in the next 12 months if climbers opposed to this ugly development can get time to fix it
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