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Summary

multipitch trad crag

Access issues inherited from Kaputar

The road is suitable for 2WD vehicles but is steep, narrow and winding with part of the road gravel.

Caravans are not permitted.

Approach

Park at the West Kaputar Rocks lookout, and roughly 5-10 min walk to base, or the top to rap down.

Ethic

Kaputar is first and foremost a Trad climbing area, although in recent years some controversial bolting has occurred. Climbing on natural gear is always preferred, however the addition of bolted lower offs on more popular climbs is convenient.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start in rock couloir at far L (N) of main West terrace.

  1. 'Staircase' to break in skyline and big ledge.

  2. 40m (crux) Up over bulge, up trending slightly R, then back to the L.

  3. 18m Up on to cracked slab, up to top of pinnacle with chimney partly visible on R side.

  4. 12m Bridge across to main face on small holds, then easily up.

Rediscovered and named by Joe Friend.

FA: Thomas Galloway, D Buckley & Wellman, 1966

A Variant start to Fast Breeder. Start on alcove 10m down the L of FB at end of terrace. Step out L and climb nose to sloping roof. Traverse down and round into the unknown - an exposed line of loose blocks with poor pro. Carefully up 4m, then R onto good rock. Up R, up buttress to ledge on FB pitch 1.

FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvernet, 1981

Enjoyable climb up dominant feature.

  1. FB pitch 1

  2. 30m. Up FB for 10m to top of steep rock, on to grassy ground. Up R, over rib and 8m R to base of arching corner.

  3. 40m. (crux) Follow corner up, out and up to broken ground. To base of upper corner.

  4. 22m. Blocky corner.

FA: Ian Brown & Stuart Wilson, 1982

Up easy staircase 5m L of Symmetry Crack to grassy ledge and up L-sloping crack.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Stewart Murray, 1978

L-sloping crack in the middle of the Gallery. Up it to short, bulging wall, Step R, up wall, then continue L and up.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1978

Up crack corner 5m L of short water streak at R (SE) end of cliff closet to car park. Pleasant short climb.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Graham Blackwell & Sue Laird, 1979

Activity

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