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The first major feature seen on entering the park. It appears to be a volcanic plug but is in fact a remnant of an ancient lava flow.


Cars are best left on the roadside immediately below the cliff or further up the road. This second option necessitates a slightly longer but less steep walk contouring around the hillside to reach the cliff. Descent is by a 12m abseil down the NE Gully from chains. Routes are listed from left to right starting at the descent gully.


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Grade Route
18 Excentric Trad 15m

The route takes the obvious crack below the abseil tree at the base of the descent gully.

  1. Up the crack to the tree.

FA: Richard Curtis & Richard Morris, 1981

14 * Ewbank's Nose Unknown 15m
17 The Gravity Syndrome Unknown 25m
21 Catharsis Unknown 50m
20 * It Went Like Clockwork Unknown 45m
21 Silver Shadow Unknown 50m
18 Machine-gun Etiquette Unknown 50m
17 * Saturation Point Trad 60m, 3

A fine line on good rock. Start at the NW corner. A wide crack on the left side of a prominent pillar, 20m left of Seaview.

  1. 25m. Climb to the big ledge on the top of the pillar.

  2. 20m. Short cracked wall to roof which may be bypassed by an undercling around left or more strenuously up crack to the right.

  3. 15m. Into corner and up it (17) or easier exit onto a ramp across right 1m (grade 14 alternate finish)

FA: Richard Curtis, Brian Birchall. alternate finish by Joe Friend & Matthew Zuiderduin, 1977

14 ** Seaview Unknown 60m
17 Ocean Drive Unknown 60m
17 Moose the Goose Unknown 55m
19 ** A Jam for All Seasons Trad 63m, 2

Steeper than it looks. Original initials may still be visible. Start about 15m left of Helen of Troy.

  1. 23m. (Crux) Straight up crack then trend up left to belay ledge at base of short corner.

  2. 40m. Continue trending across left to a ledge at base of large corner. Up corner crack to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Mark Colyvan, 1980

17 Cloud Zero Unknown 60m
17 Helen of Troy Unknown 60m
19 Bags Be the Farmer Unknown 80m
18 ** Industrial Unrest Trad 50m

'Where there's Industrial Unrest you tend to get scabs.' Start. The next big corner left of Over Exposed.

  1. 50m. Straight up it. Good pro. Good jambs. Good time.

FA: Richard Curtis & Kevin Lindorf, 1982

21 ** Overexposed Trad 65m, 2

Start immediately right of vintage 'Carrington' graffiti.

  1. 40m. Follow the obvious line to a good belay ledge about 7m below triangular roof.

  2. 25m. (crux) Up, keeping right, to just below the roof, delicately traverse left to continuation crack. Tricky move to get established in this and then easily to top.

FA: B. Birchall & R. Curtis (alt) R. Morris, 1981

20 * Gentle Giant Unknown 50m
19 ** Sleepless Moon Unknown 55m
20 The Soft Touch Unknown 50m
18 ** Classical Gas Trad 65m, 2

Varied climbing up a beautiful line. Start. The crack to the left of Blood Sports.

  1. 45m. (crux) Climb to the orange corner and up this till it is convenient to step right to a wall crack. Up this and through overhang to large ledge. (The Promenade).

  2. 20m. From righthand end of 'The Promenade' climb through overhanging crack to the top.

FA: R. Curtis, B. Birchall & R. Morris, 1981

22 *** Blood Sports Trad 65m, 2

A committing lead. Start at the crack to the left of The Prow.

  1. 45m. (equal crux) Crack and wall climbing to belay ledge on the left at height of small overhang.

  2. 20m. (equal crux) Step back right into crack. Follow this to the top with some wall climbing.

FA: R. Curtis, B. Birchall & R. Morris, 1981

20 * The Prow Unknown 50m
18 ** Lonely Escalator Unknown 50m
20 Dancing Fool Unknown 50m
22 CC Rider Unknown 50m
13 M1 Bathroom Wall Aid 12m


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