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Description

The first major feature seen on entering the park. It appears to be a volcanic plug but is in fact a remnant of an ancient lava flow.

Approach

Cars are best left on the roadside immediately below the cliff or further up the road. This second option necessitates a slightly longer but less steep walk contouring around the hillside to reach the cliff. Descent is by a 12m abseil down the NE Gully from chains. Routes are listed from left to right starting at the descent gully.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 Excentric Trad 15m

The route takes the obvious crack below the abseil tree at the base of the descent gully.

  1. Up the crack to the tree.

FA: Richard Curtis, Richard Morris, 1981

2
14 * Ewbank's Nose Unknown 15m
3
17 The Gravity Syndrome Unknown 25m
4
21 Catharsis Unknown 50m
6
20 * It Went Like Clockwork Unknown 45m
7
21 Silver Shadow Unknown 50m
8
18 Machine-gun Etiquette Unknown 50m
9
17 * Saturation Point Trad 60m

A fine line on good rock. Start at the NW corner. A wide crack on the left side of a prominent pillar, 20m left of Seaview.

  1. 25m. Climb to the big ledge on the top of the pillar.

  2. 20m. Short cracked wall to roof which may be bypassed by an undercling around left or more strenuously up crack to the right.

  3. 15m. Into corner and up it (17) or easier exit onto a ramp across right 1m (grade 14 alternate finish)

FA: Richard Curtis, Brian Birchall. alternate finish by Joe Friend and Matthew Zuiderduin, 1977

10
14 ** Seaview Unknown 60m
11
17 Ocean Drive Unknown 60m
12
17 Moose the Goose Unknown 55m
13

Steeper than it looks. Original initials may still be visible. Start about 15m left of Helen of Troy.

  1. 23m. (Crux) Straight up crack then trend up left to belay ledge at base of short corner.

  2. 40m. Continue trending across left to a ledge at base of large corner. Up corner crack to top.

FA: Richard Curtis, Mark Colyvan, 1980

14
17 Cloud Zero Unknown 60m
15
17 Helen of Troy Unknown 60m
16
19 Bags Be the Farmer Unknown 80m
17
18 * Industrial Unrest Unknown 50m

'Where there's Industrial Unrest you tend to get scabs.' Start. The next big corner left of Over Exposed.

  1. 50m. Straight up it. Good pro. Good jambs. Good time.

FA: Richard Curtis, Kevin Lindorf, 1982

18
21 * Overexposed Trad 65m

Start immediately right of vintage 'Carrington' graffiti.

  1. 40m. Follow the obvious line to a good belay ledge about 7m below triangular roof.

  2. 25m. (crux) Up, keeping right, to just below the roof, delicately traverse left to continuation crack. Tricky move to get established in this and then easily to top.

FA: B. Birchall, R. Curtis (alt) R. Morris, 1981

19
20 * Gentle Giant Unknown 50m
20
19 ** Sleepless Moon Unknown 55m
21
20 The Soft Touch Unknown 50m
22
18 ** Classical Gas Unknown 65m

Varied climbing up a beautiful line. Start. The crack to the left of Blood Sports.

  1. 45m. (crux) Climb to the orange corner and up this till it is convenient to step right to a wall crack. Up this and through overhang to large ledge. (The Promenade).

  2. 20m. From righthand end of 'The Promenade' climb through overhanging crack to the top.

FA: R. Curtis, B. Birchall, R. Morris, 1981

23
22 ** Blood Sports Trad 65m

A committing lead. Start at the crack to the left of The Prow.

  1. 45m. (equal crux) Crack and wall climbing to belay ledge on the left at height of small overhang.

  2. 20m. (equal crux) Step back right into crack. Follow this to the top with some wall climbing.

FA: R. Curtis, B. Birchall, R. Morris, 1981

24
20 * The Prow Unknown 50m
25
18 * Lonely Escalator Unknown 50m
26
20 Dancing Fool Unknown 50m
27
22 CC Rider Unknown 50m
28
13 M1 Bathroom Wall Aid 12m