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Description:

Start as for Sago Entree.

  1. 30m. Up S.E. for a bit then traverse right below overhung buttress to the adjacent line and up it to a semi-hanging belay.
  2. 25m. Continue up line through a triangular overhang. Belay below overhanging top section of the crack.
  3. 25m. (crux) Finish up the line.

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Mark Colyvan, Paul Bain, (alt), 5 Sep 1981

  • First Ascent: Richard Curtis (p2 &3) Brian Birchall (p1), 1976

    On the first ascent Curtis took a rest half way up the final crack while he pondered whether he would be justified in uprooting a snow daisy to expose the crucial small flat hold on which it grew. (Ah, how things have changed.) On being told by Birchall (a Lecturer of Philosophy) to "stop being so effing ethical and get the eff up the effing thing." he disposed of the offending plant and finished the pitch, meaning to return at a later date and climb the pitch without the rest. Of course it never happened as there were too many other great new routes on the Governor to be done first. As a footnote it is interesting to note that Birchall returned not long after the first ascent with Bob Killip to climb the final pitch without the rest. He had fallen on the very last move of the crux pitch on the first ascent and had a Baldrickesque 'clever plan' to save strength on his new attempt. He decided he would put in less protection !!! The inevitable happened. He fell on the last move again and broke a couple of ribs. RIP Brian. We had some great times. RC.

Location:  

Located in Kaputar approx:
Long/Lat: 150.142584,-30.289936

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

*** *** Richard Curtis
20 Principal
20 OZ Rock
20 *** Pocket RockGUIDE: Kaputar
20 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 81%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

strenuous good great exciting nice steep bridging roof crack

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