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Description:© (wogdog)

Takes a short, pronounced, orange V cleft through the first band of overhangs to the right of 'Skypilot'. The first pitch was led with help from tension on the rope but seconded free.

Tension traverse on pitch 1 eliminated, grade remains at 21.

Start: About 10m from the left hand end of the shattered wall.

  1. 33m (21) (crux) Climb up the wall to the short orange V cleft and through this to a rest, then up to next roof for protection and step down left and traverse further left and up to semi-hanging belay of 'Sky Pilot'.

  2. 26m (-) Up to top of jamb crack in common with 'Sky Pilot', continue up and right then traverse left about 5m, right under overhang and up and around its righthand end. Continue up groove to belay about 10m above overhang below corner.

  3. 16m (-) Continue up corner to top.

Route History:

  • First Ascent: J Nelson & R Curtis. alt, 1979

    I belayed Jim on pitch 1 on the first ascent. Not convinced that he used tension but rope was fairly tight 'cos he was looking at a big 'swinger'.


Located in Kaputar approx:
Long/Lat: 150.142584,-30.289936

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

21 Principal
21 ** ** ACA Route Register
21 *** Richard Curtis
21 *** Pocket RockGUIDE: Kaputar

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 77%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux stoked fantastic good amazing nice scary committing rest interesting epic roof technical layback easy traverse slabby crack

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