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Routes

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The white streaked wall left of Blood offers a technical and pumpy pitch. Worthwhile.

FA: Owen Gervasoni & Roger Parkyn, 2015

Climb right of the first two U's. At the third U traverse left (crux) with #3 roughly at chest height: looks improbable at first but invisible side-pulls appear when needed.

FA: O Gervasoni & R Parkyn, 2015

The extension to Blood, through the centre on the capping roof is a project.

Front of small pillar to DBB. Very bouldery moves, with delicate footwork at the crux.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries, 2015

Takes the system of layback cracks up the corner seperating the Tourette's Syndrome pillar from the main buttress to the right. Shares DBB with TS.

Name attributed from thesarvo.com

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

Devious and sustained face climbing. Climb bolted access pitch to ledge up and left of first belay on CR to gain start. Six bolts lead to the CR rap station. Best to climb right of bolt 2, then move left at bolt 3.

FA: O. Gervasoni & R Parkyn, 2015

Excellent climbing on good rock – take plenty of small gear for this gem!

  1. 14m 12 Climb the initial wall to the left of the massive flake to a DBB.

  2. 28m 22 Step right and follow the main corner to the rooflet, then bridge and technique your way with difficulty up the steepening narrow gut to a rest. Superb crack climbing finishing up the LH crack to DBB.

FA: O. Gervasoni & T. McKenny, 2015

The arête right of CR. From first belay on CR, traverse right to bolt, then up to roof at base of the arête. Turn roof (with an assist from the adjacent buttress), then onwards to a DBB

FA: O. Gervasoni, J Ridder & R Parkyn, 2015

Nice face climbing 10m L of Smash the Beetles. After the ledge at half height the route trends right to avoid the crazy bulge.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

Corner at the right end of 'Smashed Wall'.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2014

The line up the pillar on the left hand end of Wedge Buttress. Enjoyable face climbing with a pumpy finish. Entertaining face climbing through the first roof to the jugs, rest and easier middle slab. Pump though the second roof with limited feet. From the last bolt you can scuttle right for a rest, or continue up the shallow crack. There is an optional #2 camalot at the very top before you pull onto the ledge. Clip the anchors and think about the next project.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

Not bad for this sort of thing, will get better with more cleaning. The chimney to the right of Cardio. Bring your no 4s and 5s!

FA: Y. Foong & M. Lopez, 2016

Long and sustained pitch of climbing.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphies, 2014

good companion route to Damage with similar climbing, just a touch harder. Start in between Damage and Gold Quoin at a thin corner crack, to the same anchor as Damage, with one shared clip.

FA: J Nermut & D humphries, 2016

Follows the U's up the shallow groove immediately right of Damage. Steep but there's always holds of some sort

FA: R Parkyn, J Ridder & O Gervasoni, 2015

The sinuous crack starting at the lowest point of the buttress. A steep start up the crack eases to fairly runout with questionable rock quality. Be very careful.

FA: J Nermut & D humphries, 2014

Raw as botulism. Starts at the wide looking crack about 7 metres right of TTEOTW, then goes straight up via flakey face to obvious tree, then to top. Can probably be done in one long pitch.

  1. (15) 15m: Start up wide crack to obvious ledge.

  2. (19) 22m: This is where you tell mama you love her and weasel your way up the face. Negotiate small rooflet, and then count your blessings on semi-permanent holds to second rooflet. The first ascentionists chickened out and bailed leftwards at this point, however the direct finish over the rooflet awaits a glorious ascent. Set up anchor on trees.

  3. (12) 10m: To the top via crack, can be done as part of 2nd pitch.

FA: YC Foong & M Lopez, 2016

The overhanging groove up the arête left of TRS.

FA: R Parkyn & O Gervasoni, 2015

Bolted L facing corner to rooflet, then slightly overhanging face above to DBB. A mixture of fixed hangers and stainless steel carrot bolts.

Conventional Wisdom is that Kempton is a pile of choss. This route which climbs the pillar left of Emancipate Yourself doesn't disappoint - it's got it fair share of hollow flakes and shards. But it is a fun climb nonetheless. At the 7th bolt you can either scuttle right, or go direct at about grade 22.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

Lovely climbing up corner systems to DBB. Nice rock (albeit with some rattly pieces) and interesting technical moves.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

Arete to ledge between SD and Star. Rap off chain on ledge (shared with SD and ME). Nice balancy climbing, on carrots.

P1 15m (23) 3 bolts to chain on Seventh Day Ledge. Start up gully to right of Star. After a terrible first 5 metres, the quality improves significantly. P2 25m (24) bolts to rap chain.

A direct start to P1 of ME, starting up thin crack and arete immedialty right of Star.

Immedietly left of Vagabond. Take care with the first clip (a stick clip may assist). The golden corner above has technical and excellent climbing on (surprisingly for Kempton) brilliant rock.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries, 2014

Good climb, sustained crimp busting!

FA: J Nermut, 2016

The crack of varying sizes 2m R of TWW. Start in da v groove and up to the DBB. Grubby, wet and a lil crumbly.

FA: M. Lopez & Y. Foong, 2016

8m R of Crying Wolf is a bolted face with a detached block at its base.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries

Arete 2m right of Sugar Tits. Finish up Sugar Tits.

FA: Dave Humphries & J Nermut, 2016

middle line up the Phat as Butter boulder, sit start the jug, up to crimp, then the two small edge rails to large moves near the lip to mantle. Classic line

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