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Routes

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Grade Route
1
12 32 Penguins Trad 20m
2
3
17 No Tomorrow Unknown 25m
4
16 When Spiders Travel Unknown 25m
5
21 * Tourette's Syndrome Sport 15m, 6

Front of small pillar to DBB. Very bouldery moves, with delicate footwork at the crux.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries, 2015

6
17 * Unnamed Trad 15m

Takes the system of layback cracks up the corner seperating the Tourette's Syndrome pillar from the main buttress to the right. Shares DBB with TS.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

7
21 *** Copperhead Road Trad 42m 2

Excellent climbing on good rock – take plenty of small gear for this gem!

  1. 14m 12 Climb the initial wall to the left of the massive flake to a DBB.

  2. 28m 22 Step right and follow the main corner to the rooflet, then bridge and technique your way with difficulty up the steepening narrow gut to a rest. Superb crack climbing finishing up the LH crack to DBB.

FA: O. Gervasoni & T. McKenny, 2015

8
20 Smash the Beetles Sport 22m, 8

Corner at the right end of 'Smashed Wall'.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2014

9
18 ** Damage Sport 28m, 10

Long and sustained pitch of climbing.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphies, 2014

10
18 * The Right Stuff Unknown 20m
11
17 * Outlaw Unknown 25m
12
22 ** The Smoking Gun Sport 25m, 8

Bolted L facing corner to rooflet, then slightly overhanging face above to DBB. A mixture of fixed hangers and stainless steel carrot bolts.

13
16 Renegade Unknown 30m
15
17 *** Seventh Day Trad 50m
16
21 ** Steel Prophylactic Sport 15m, 4

Arete to ledge between SD and Star. Rap off chain on ledge (shared with SD and ME). Nice balancy climbing, on carrots.

17
19 ** Star Trad 20m
18
24 ** Mixed Emotions Sport 15m 2

P1 15m (23) 3 bolts to chain on Seventh Day Ledge. Start up gully to right of Star. After a terrible first 5 metres, the quality improves significantly. P2 25m (24) bolts to rap chain.

19

A direct start to P1 of ME, starting up thin crack and arete immedialty right of Star.

20
21 ** The Battle Sport 12m, 5

Immedietly left of Vagabond. Take care with the first clip (a stick clip may assist). The golden corner above has technical and excellent climbing on (surprisingly for Kempton) brilliant rock.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries, 2014

21
22 ** Vagabond Sport 25m
22
20 * Toxic Avenger Unknown 25m
23
20 Crying Wolfs Unknown 35m
24
18 Dancing Caver Unknown 60m
25
19 Surprise Unknown 15m
26
13 Wild Flowers Unknown 15m
27
22 Restles Prince Unknown 25m
28
22 Princess Nina Unknown 25m
29
20 ** The Felcher Sport 25m
30
18 King Dean Unknown 25m
31
20 * Kaiserdom Unknown 25m
32
17 KFC Unknown 25m

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