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Routes

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Grade Route
1
12 * 32 Penguins Trad 20m
2
3
17 No Tomorrow Trad 25m
4
5
23 * Anemia Sport 19m, 8

The white streaked wall left of Blood offers a technical and pumpy pitch. Worthwhile.

FA: Owen Gervasoni & Roger Parkyn, 2015

6
21 ** Blood Sport 23m, 10

Climb right of the first two U's. At the third U traverse left (crux) with #3 roughly at chest height: looks improbable at first but invisible side-pulls appear when needed.

FA: O Gervasoni & R Parkyn, 2015

7
Full Blooded SportProject 34m, 17

The extension to Blood, through the centre on the capping roof is a project.

8
21 * Tourette's Syndrome Sport 15m, 6

Front of small pillar to DBB. Very bouldery moves, with delicate footwork at the crux.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries, 2015

9
17 * Coprolalia Trad 15m

Takes the system of layback cracks up the corner seperating the Tourette's Syndrome pillar from the main buttress to the right. Shares DBB with TS.

Name attributed from thesarvo.com

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

10
25 ** Methanol Sport 16m, 6

Devious and sustained face climbing. Climb bolted access pitch to ledge up and left of first belay on CR to gain start. Six bolts lead to the CR rap station. Best to climb right of bolt 2, then move left at bolt 3.

FA: O. Gervasoni & R Parkyn, 2015

11
21 *** Copperhead Road Trad 42m, 2

Excellent climbing on good rock – take plenty of small gear for this gem!

  1. 14m 12 Climb the initial wall to the left of the massive flake to a DBB.

  2. 28m 22 Step right and follow the main corner to the rooflet, then bridge and technique your way with difficulty up the steepening narrow gut to a rest. Superb crack climbing finishing up the LH crack to DBB.

FA: O. Gervasoni & T. McKenny, 2015

12
22 * Moonshine Sport 25m, 8

The arête right of CR. From first belay on CR, traverse right to bolt, then up to roof at base of the arête. Turn roof (with an assist from the adjacent buttress), then onwards to a DBB

FA: O. Gervasoni, J Ridder & R Parkyn, 2015

13

Nice face climbing 10m L of Smash the Beetles. After the ledge at half height the route trends right to avoid the crazy bulge.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

14
20 Smash the Beetles Sport 22m, 8

Corner at the right end of 'Smashed Wall'.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2014

15
22 ** Cardio Sport 30m

The line up the pillar on the left hand end of Wedge Buttress. Enjoyable face climbing with a pumpy finish. Entertaining face climbing through the first roof to the jugs, rest and easier middle slab. Pump though the second roof with limited feet. From the last bolt you can scuttle right for a rest, or continue up the shallow crack. There is an optional #2 camalot at the very top before you pull onto the ledge. Clip the anchors and think about the next project.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

16
17 ** Please Explain Trad 32m

Not bad for this sort of thing, will get better with more cleaning. The chimney to the right of Cardio. Bring your no 4s and 5s!

FA: Y. Foong & M. Lopez, 2016

17
18 ** Damage Sport 28m, 10

Long and sustained pitch of climbing.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphies, 2014

18
20 * Whoosh Sport 28m

good companion route to Damage with similar climbing, just a touch harder. Start in between Damage and Gold Quoin at a thin corner crack, to the same anchor as Damage, with one shared clip.

FA: J Nermut & D humphries, 2016

19
19 * Gold Quoin Sport 12m

Follows the U's up the shallow groove immediately right of Damage. Steep but there's always holds of some sort

FA: R Parkyn, J Ridder & O Gervasoni, 2015

20

The sinuous crack starting at the lowest point of the buttress. A steep start up the crack eases to fairly runout with questionable rock quality. Be very careful.

FA: J Nermut & D humphries, 2014

21
19 ¥oung Mon€¥ Trad 47m, 3

Raw as botulism. Starts at the wide looking crack about 7 metres right of TTEOTW, then goes straight up via flakey face to obvious tree, then to top. Can probably be done in one long pitch.

  1. (15) 15m: Start up wide crack to obvious ledge.

  2. (19) 22m: This is where you tell mama you love her and weasel your way up the face. Negotiate small rooflet, and then count your blessings on semi-permanent holds to second rooflet. The first ascentionists chickened out and bailed leftwards at this point, however the direct finish over the rooflet awaits a glorious ascent. Set up anchor on trees.

  3. (12) 10m: To the top via crack, can be done as part of 2nd pitch.

FA: YC Foong & M Lopez, 2016

22
21 ** Marginal Call Sport 20m, 9

The overhanging groove up the arête left of TRS.

FA: R Parkyn & O Gervasoni, 2015

23
18 ** The Right Stuff Trad 20m
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17 Outlaw Trad 25m
25
22 ** The Smoking Gun Sport 25m, 8

Bolted L facing corner to rooflet, then slightly overhanging face above to DBB. A mixture of fixed hangers and stainless steel carrot bolts.

26
16 Renegade Trad 30m
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20 Conventional Wisdom Sport 25m, 10

Conventional Wisdom is that Kempton is a pile of choss. This route which climbs the pillar left of Emancipate Yourself doesn't disappoint - it's got it fair share of hollow flakes and shards. But it is a fun climb nonetheless. At the 7th bolt you can either scuttle right, or go direct at about grade 22.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

29
21 ** Servitude Sport 25m

Lovely climbing up corner systems to DBB. Nice rock (albeit with some rattly pieces) and interesting technical moves.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

30
17 *** Seventh Day Trad 50m
31
21 ** Steel Prophylactic Sport 15m, 4

Arete to ledge between SD and Star. Rap off chain on ledge (shared with SD and ME). Nice balancy climbing, on carrots.

32
19 ** Star Trad 20m
33
24 ** Mixed Emotions Sport 15m, 2

P1 15m (23) 3 bolts to chain on Seventh Day Ledge. Start up gully to right of Star. After a terrible first 5 metres, the quality improves significantly. P2 25m (24) bolts to rap chain.

34

A direct start to P1 of ME, starting up thin crack and arete immedialty right of Star.

35
21 ** The Battle Sport 12m, 5

Immedietly left of Vagabond. Take care with the first clip (a stick clip may assist). The golden corner above has technical and excellent climbing on (surprisingly for Kempton) brilliant rock.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries, 2014

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22 ** Vagabond Sport 25m
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20 ** Toxic Avenger Trad 25m
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20 Crying Wolfs Trad 35m
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21 ** The West Wind Sport

Good climb, sustained crimp busting!

FA: J Nermut, 2016

40
17 Dallas City Sniper Trad 18m

The crack of varying sizes 2m R of TWW. Start in da v groove and up to the DBB. Grubby, wet and a lil crumbly.

FA: M. Lopez & Y. Foong, 2016

41
18 * Sugar Tits Sport 20m, 9

8m R of Crying Wolf is a bolted face with a detached block at its base.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries

42

Arete 2m right of Sugar Tits. Finish up Sugar Tits.

FA: Dave Humphries & J Nermut, 2016

43
18 Dancing Caver Unknown 60m
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19 * Surprise Trad 15m
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13 * Wild Flowers Trad 15m
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22 Restles Prince Trad 25m
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22 Princess Nina Trad 25m
48
20 ** The Felcher Sport 25m
49
18 King Dean Trad 25m
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20 * Kaiserdom Trad 25m
51
17 KFC Trad 25m

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