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Routes

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Blood Buttress is the next one left of Tourette's Pillar, before the cliff heads uphill again. The fist two routes listed are on the 25m high sub-buttress on the left hand side.

The white streaked wall left of Blood offers a technical and pumpy pitch. Worthwhile.

FA: Owen Gervasoni & Roger Parkyn, 2015

Climb right of the first two U's. At the third U traverse left (crux) with #3 roughly at chest height: looks improbable at first but invisible side-pulls appear when needed.

FA: O Gervasoni & R Parkyn, 2015

The extension to Blood, through the centre on the capping roof is a project.

This little 15m pillar to the R of Blood Buttress, and about 50m left of Smashed Wall is dwarfed by the two huge buttresses on either side and above it.

Front of small pillar to DBB. Very bouldery moves, with delicate footwork at the crux.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries, 2015

Takes the system of layback cracks up the corner seperating the Tourette's Syndrome pillar from the main buttress to the right. Shares DBB with TS.

Name attributed from thesarvo.com

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

About 40m right of the Tourette's Pillar and just to the left of the deep chimney/gully that defines the LH end of Smashed Wall is a steep yellow buttress, capped by a projecting old gum. The face is split by a weakness which divides high up into two cracks.

Devious and sustained face climbing. Climb bolted access pitch to ledge up and left of first belay on CR to gain start. Six bolts lead to the CR rap station. Best to climb right of bolt 2, then move left at bolt 3.

FA: O. Gervasoni & R Parkyn, 2015

Excellent climbing on good rock – take plenty of small gear for this gem!

  1. 14m 12 Climb the initial wall to the left of the massive flake to a DBB.

  2. 28m 22 Step right and follow the main corner to the rooflet, then bridge and technique your way with difficulty up the steepening narrow gut to a rest. Superb crack climbing finishing up the LH crack to DBB.

FA: O. Gervasoni & T. McKenny, 2015

The arête right of CR. From first belay on CR, traverse right to bolt, then up to roof at base of the arête. Turn roof (with an assist from the adjacent buttress), then onwards to a DBB

FA: O. Gervasoni, J Ridder & R Parkyn, 2015

Up and left again from Wedge Buttress is Smashed Wall, which at the right hand end has the smashed remains of quite a large tree which fell from the top of the cliff in 2014.

This route takes the right hand of two corners, down at the lowest level of the wall.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2016

Nice face climbing 10m L of Smash the Beetles. After the ledge at half height the route trends right to avoid the crazy bulge.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

Corner at the right end of 'Smashed Wall'.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2014

From Right Stuff Buttress, the next chunk of rock to the left is Wedge Buttress, which is about 45m high.

The line up the pillar on the left hand end of Wedge Buttress. Enjoyable face climbing with a pumpy finish. Entertaining face climbing through the first roof to the jugs, rest and easier middle slab. Pump though the second roof with limited feet. From the last bolt you can scuttle right for a rest, or continue up the shallow crack. There is an optional #2 camalot at the very top before you pull onto the ledge. Clip the anchors and think about the next project.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

Not bad for this sort of thing, will get better with more cleaning. The chimney to the right of Cardio. Bring your no 4s and 5s!

FA: Y. Foong & M. Lopez, 2016

Long and sustained pitch of climbing.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphies, 2014

good companion route to Damage with similar climbing, just a touch harder. Start in between Damage and Gold Quoin at a thin corner crack, to the same anchor as Damage, with one shared clip.

FA: J Nermut & D humphries, 2016

Follows the U's up the shallow groove immediately right of Damage. Steep but there's always holds of some sort

FA: R Parkyn, J Ridder & O Gervasoni, 2015

The sinuous crack starting at the lowest point of the buttress. A steep start up the crack eases to fairly runout with questionable rock quality. Be very careful.

FA: J Nermut & D humphries, 2014

Raw as botulism. Starts at the wide looking crack about 7 metres right of TTEOTW, then goes straight up via flakey face to obvious tree, then to top. Can probably be done in one long pitch.

  1. (15) 15m: Start up wide crack to obvious ledge.

  2. (19) 22m: This is where you tell mama you love her and weasel your way up the face. Negotiate small rooflet, and then count your blessings on semi-permanent holds to second rooflet. The first ascentionists chickened out and bailed leftwards at this point, however the direct finish over the rooflet awaits a glorious ascent. Set up anchor on trees.

  3. (12) 10m: To the top via crack, can be done as part of 2nd pitch.

FA: YC Foong & M Lopez, 2016

From Prelude head left and up the hill towards Wedge Buttress. Looking up the hill you will find a narrow buttress with an obvious fist crack - which is The Right Stuff.

The overhanging groove up the arête left of TRS.

FA: R Parkyn & O Gervasoni, 2015

The beautiful arete between Margin Call and The Right Stuff. Technical with a steep finish.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2016

Howling Buttress is the large buttress that you pass as you head you head up the hill from Smoking Gun area to Wedge Buttress, to the right of The Right Stuff. There is one route currently at the lower level by the track - Prelude. The others are approached from Wedge.

Owen Gervasoni, Roger Parkyn

FA: 2016

Owen Gervasoni, Roger Parkyn

FA: 2016

Dave Humphrie

FA: 2016

Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut,

FA: 2016

Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut,

FA: 2016

Bolted L facing corner to rooflet, then slightly overhanging face above to DBB. A mixture of fixed hangers and stainless steel carrot bolts.

Emancipate Buttress is the 55m high buttress to the left of Seventh Day, with a good ledge at 25m

Conventional Wisdom is that Kempton is a pile of choss. This route which climbs the pillar left of Emancipate Yourself doesn't disappoint - it's got it fair share of hollow flakes and shards. But it is a fun climb nonetheless. At the 7th bolt you can either scuttle right, or go direct at about grade 22.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

Lovely climbing up corner systems to DBB. Nice rock (albeit with some rattly pieces) and interesting technical moves.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

The buttress where the access trail first meets the cliff

Arete to ledge between SD and Star. Rap off chain on ledge (shared with SD and ME). Nice balancy climbing, on carrots.

P1 15m (23) 3 bolts to chain on Seventh Day Ledge. Start up gully to right of Star. After a terrible first 5 metres, the quality improves significantly. P2 25m (24) bolts to rap chain.

A direct start to P1 of ME, starting up thin crack and arete immedialty right of Star.

Vagabond Buttress is the next chunk of rock right of the Seventh Day area, until the cliff turns a corner. Its the first bit of rock you get to following the track.

Immedietly left of Vagabond. Take care with the first clip (a stick clip may assist). The golden corner above has technical and excellent climbing on (surprisingly for Kempton) brilliant rock.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries, 2014

Good climb, sustained crimp busting!

FA: J Nermut, 2016

The crack of varying sizes 2m R of TWW. Start in da v groove and up to the DBB. Grubby, wet and a lil crumbly.

FA: M. Lopez & Y. Foong, 2016

The right facing corner to the left of Sugar Tits. Lower off Sugar Tits anchor.

FA: Probably done by Dave Humphries & John Burgess way back in the day

8m R of Crying Wolf is a bolted face with a detached block at its base.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries

Arete 2m right of Sugar Tits. Finish up Sugar Tits.

FA: Dave Humphries & J Nermut, 2016

Next right of Vagabond Buttress is a huge, steep, orange buttress with no routes on it currently. Further R again is Surprise Buttress, which extends as far as the gully which heads up to Princess Nina.

FA: R.Holzer, V.Jurisch & D.Morgan

The face in between Surprise and Wild Flowers provides lovely climbing. One of the better sport routes at this kind of grade around Hobart.

FA: Jon Nermut, Stu Scott & Dave Humphries, 2016

The next climbs are about 50m to the right and 20m up a gully (some scrambling)

middle line up the Phat as Butter boulder, sit start the jug, up to crimp, then the two small edge rails to large moves near the lip to mantle. Classic line

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