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Routes

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Grade Route
1
12 32 Penguins Trad 20m
2
3
17 No Tomorrow Trad 25m
4
5
23 * Anemia Sport 19m, 8

The white streaked wall left of Blood offers a technical and pumpy pitch. Worthwhile.

FA: Owen Gervasoni & Roger Parkyn, 2015

6
21 ** Blood Sport 23m, 10

Climb right of the first two U's. At the third U traverse left (crux) with #3 roughly at chest height: looks improbable at first but invisible side-pulls appear when needed.

FA: O Gervasoni & R Parkyn, 2015

7
Full Blooded Sport Project 34m, 17

The extension to Blood, through the centre on the capping roof is a project.

8
21 * Tourette's Syndrome Sport 15m, 6

Front of small pillar to DBB. Very bouldery moves, with delicate footwork at the crux.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries, 2015

9
17 * Coprolalia Trad 15m

Takes the system of layback cracks up the corner seperating the Tourette's Syndrome pillar from the main buttress to the right. Shares DBB with TS.

Name attributed from thesarvo.com

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

10
25 ** Methanol Sport 16m, 6

Devious and sustained face climbing. Climb bolted access pitch to ledge up and left of first belay on CR to gain start. Six bolts lead to the CR rap station. Best to climb right of bolt 2, then move left at bolt 3.

FA: O. Gervasoni & R Parkyn, 2015

11
21 *** Copperhead Road Trad 42m 2

Excellent climbing on good rock – take plenty of small gear for this gem!

  1. 14m 12 Climb the initial wall to the left of the massive flake to a DBB.

  2. 28m 22 Step right and follow the main corner to the rooflet, then bridge and technique your way with difficulty up the steepening narrow gut to a rest. Superb crack climbing finishing up the LH crack to DBB.

FA: O. Gervasoni & T. McKenny, 2015

12
22 * Moonshine Sport 25m, 8

The arête right of CR. From first belay on CR, traverse right to bolt, then up to roof at base of the arête. Turn roof (with an assist from the adjacent buttress), then onwards to a DBB

FA: O. Gervasoni, J Ridder & R Parkyn, 2015

13

Nice face climbing 10m L of Smash the Beetles. After the ledge at half height the route trends right to avoid the crazy bulge.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

14
20 Smash the Beetles Sport 22m, 8

Corner at the right end of 'Smashed Wall'.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2014

15
18 ** Damage Sport 28m, 10

Long and sustained pitch of climbing.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphies, 2014

16
20 * Whoosh Sport 28m

good companion route to Damage with similar climbing, just a touch harder. Start in between Damage and Gold Quoin at a thin corner crack, to the same anchor as Damage, with one shared clip.

FA: J Nermut & D humphries, 2016

17
19 Gold Quoin Sport 12m

Follows the U's up the shallow groove immediately right of Damage. Steep but there's always holds of some sort

FA: R Parkyn, J Ridder & O Gervasoni, 2015

18

The sinuous crack starting at the lowest point of the buttress. A steep start up the crack eases to fairly runout with questionable rock quality. Be very careful.

FA: J Nermut & D humphries, 2014

19
21 ** Marginal Call Sport 20m, 9

The overhanging groove up the arête left of TRS.

FA: R Parkyn & O Gervasoni, 2015

20
18 * The Right Stuff Trad 20m
21
17 * Outlaw Trad 25m
22
22 ** The Smoking Gun Sport 25m, 8

Bolted L facing corner to rooflet, then slightly overhanging face above to DBB. A mixture of fixed hangers and stainless steel carrot bolts.

23
16 Renegade Trad 30m
24
20 Conventional Wisdom Sport 25m, 10

Conventional Wisdom is that Kempton is a pile of choss. This route which climbs the pillar left of Emancipate Yourself doesn't disappoint - it's got it fair share of hollow flakes and shards. But it is a fun climb nonetheless. At the 7th bolt you can either scuttle right, or go direct at about grade 22.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

26
21 ** Servitude Sport 25m

Lovely climbing up corner systems to DBB. Nice rock (albeit with some rattly pieces) and interesting technical moves.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

27
17 *** Seventh Day Trad 50m
28
21 ** Steel Prophylactic Sport 15m, 4

Arete to ledge between SD and Star. Rap off chain on ledge (shared with SD and ME). Nice balancy climbing, on carrots.

29
19 ** Star Trad 20m
30
24 ** Mixed Emotions Sport 15m 2

P1 15m (23) 3 bolts to chain on Seventh Day Ledge. Start up gully to right of Star. After a terrible first 5 metres, the quality improves significantly. P2 25m (24) bolts to rap chain.

31

A direct start to P1 of ME, starting up thin crack and arete immedialty right of Star.

32
21 ** The Battle Sport 12m, 5

Immedietly left of Vagabond. Take care with the first clip (a stick clip may assist). The golden corner above has technical and excellent climbing on (surprisingly for Kempton) brilliant rock.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries, 2014

33
22 ** Vagabond Sport 25m
34
20 * Toxic Avenger Trad 25m
35
20 Crying Wolfs Trad 35m
36
21 ** The West Wind Sport

Good climb, sustained crimp busting!

FA: J Nermut, 2016

37
18 * Sugar Tits Sport 20m, 9

8m R of Crying Wolf is a bolted face with a detached block at its base.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries

38

Arete 2m right of Sugar Tits. Finish up Sugar Tits.

FA: Dave Humphries & J Nermut, 2016

39
18 Dancing Caver Unknown 60m
40
19 Surprise Trad 15m
41
13 Wild Flowers Trad 15m
42
22 Restles Prince Trad 25m
43
22 Princess Nina Trad 25m
44
20 ** The Felcher Sport 25m
45
18 King Dean Trad 25m
46
20 * Kaiserdom Trad 25m
47
17 KFC Trad 25m

Activity

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