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Routes

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Grade Route
1
12 32 Penguins Trad 20m
2
3
17 No Tomorrow Unknown 25m
4
16 When Spiders Travel Unknown 25m
5
21 * Tourette's Syndrome Sport 15m, 6

Front of small pillar to DBB. Very bouldery moves, with delicate footwork at the crux.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries, 2015

6
17 * Unnamed Trad 15m

Takes the system of layback cracks up the corner seperating the Tourette's Syndrome pillar from the main buttress to the right. Shares DBB with TS.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2015

7
25 ** Methanol Sport 16m, 6

Devious and sustained face climbing. Climb bolted access pitch to ledge up and left of first belay on CR to gain start. Six bolts lead to the CR rap station. Best to climb right of bolt 2, then move left at bolt 3.

FA: O. Gervasoni & R Parkyn, 2015

8
21 *** Copperhead Road Trad 42m 2

Excellent climbing on good rock – take plenty of small gear for this gem!

  1. 14m 12 Climb the initial wall to the left of the massive flake to a DBB.

  2. 28m 22 Step right and follow the main corner to the rooflet, then bridge and technique your way with difficulty up the steepening narrow gut to a rest. Superb crack climbing finishing up the LH crack to DBB.

FA: O. Gervasoni & T. McKenny, 2015

9
22 * Moonshine Sport 25m, 8

The arête right of CR. From first belay on CR, traverse right to bolt, then up to roof at base of the arête. Turn roof (with an assist from the adjacent buttress), then onwards to a DBB

FA: O. Gervasoni, J Ridder & R Parkyn, 2015

10
20 Smash the Beetles Sport 22m, 8

Corner at the right end of 'Smashed Wall'.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2014

11
18 ** Damage Sport 28m, 10

Long and sustained pitch of climbing.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphies, 2014

12
19 * The One Who Knocks Sport 12m

Follows the U's up the shallow groove immediately right of Damage. Steep but there's always holds of some sort

FA: R Parkyn, J Ridder & O Gervasoni, 2015

13
18 * The Right Stuff Unknown 20m
14
17 * Outlaw Unknown 25m
15
22 ** The Smoking Gun Sport 25m, 8

Bolted L facing corner to rooflet, then slightly overhanging face above to DBB. A mixture of fixed hangers and stainless steel carrot bolts.

16
16 Renegade Unknown 30m
18
17 *** Seventh Day Trad 50m
19
21 ** Steel Prophylactic Sport 15m, 4

Arete to ledge between SD and Star. Rap off chain on ledge (shared with SD and ME). Nice balancy climbing, on carrots.

20
19 ** Star Trad 20m
21
24 ** Mixed Emotions Sport 15m 2

P1 15m (23) 3 bolts to chain on Seventh Day Ledge. Start up gully to right of Star. After a terrible first 5 metres, the quality improves significantly. P2 25m (24) bolts to rap chain.

22

A direct start to P1 of ME, starting up thin crack and arete immedialty right of Star.

23
21 ** The Battle Sport 12m, 5

Immedietly left of Vagabond. Take care with the first clip (a stick clip may assist). The golden corner above has technical and excellent climbing on (surprisingly for Kempton) brilliant rock.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries, 2014

24
22 ** Vagabond Sport 25m
25
20 * Toxic Avenger Unknown 25m
26
20 Crying Wolfs Unknown 35m
27
18 Dancing Caver Unknown 60m
28
19 Surprise Unknown 15m
29
13 Wild Flowers Unknown 15m
30
22 Restles Prince Unknown 25m
31
22 Princess Nina Unknown 25m
32
20 ** The Felcher Sport 25m
33
18 King Dean Unknown 25m
34
20 * Kaiserdom Unknown 25m
35
17 KFC Unknown 25m

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