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Description

Shortish sea-buffed dolerite cliffs.

Access issues

Climb at low to mid tide or top rope/belay at high tide. Farmers nearby have "Do Not Trespass" signs, please respect these by walking along coastal land below fences.

Approach

Approach from the North Clifton carpark. There is a gate here restricting car access to the cape so walk past this to the carpark that faces north. Walk to the coast and follow it around 1.5kms beneath the paddock fences.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The Main Wall

Look left of the big rock pool to find this section. Eight U-bolts up top assist with setting anchors.

1
15 Dawntreader Trad 8m

The east face of the leaning block. Go up, moving left to the arête and the finish.

FA: Marcel Jackson (solo), 1989

2
16 Anchor Blade Top rope 8m
3
16 Schweppes Top rope 8m
4
9 Aiken Drum Trad 10m

Starts on rounded holds and follows the crack up the the less-then-vertical face. Possible to top-rope, great for practising nut placement.

5
18 Postscript Top rope 10m
6
19 Aussie Butler Variant Top rope 10m
7
16 Aussie Butler Trad 10m

Rather deceptive. Start about 3m right of Postscript. Climb the overhang and continue up the crack moving left at the top.

Set by Marcel Jackson, 1989

8
15 Flatiron Top rope 8m

Up the arête, it has some funky rock arches at the top.

9
14 Wall Street Top rope 10m
10
14 Chimney Trad 12m

Up obvious chimney

FA: Unknown

11
21 ** Nexter Trad 12m

steep face climbing with small wire protection for the top crux. Start 1m right of the chimney and ascend the thin crack in the wall.

FA: Marcel Jackson, 1989

12
20 * Strongbow Top rope 12m

Start 1m left of the vertical crack. Climb up and follow the good holds along the side of the overhang, to the top.

13
22 Ozone Top rope 12m

Up the face (just to the left of the crack), around the horizontal roof edge, up the face.

14
22 Thug Top rope 12m

Climb the obvious vertical crack through the overhang, then keep following it up. More of a beast then it looks.

15
20 Clubfoot Trad 12m

Start as for Thug. Climb right across the sweep of grey rock beneath the overhang then pull onto the face above. Continue up easily to a short wall finish.

FA: Peter Jackson, 1989

16
19 ** Stairway to Heaven Trad 12m

Start at the corner right of 'Clubfoot'. Climb the easy corner, then move left of the overhang to find the hidden hold for a long reach finish.

FA: Marcel Jackson, 1989

17
18 Ngalibanga Trad 12m
18
19 Keko Trad 12m
19

FA: Jai & Shumita, 2013

20
17 Leyland P76 Trad 12m
21
15 Little Mary Trad 12m
22
19 Freesinhot Trad 10m
24
25
14 Scuba Diving Trad 10m
26
21 Megasweet Trad 10m

Strine Wall

27
20 Strine Trad 10m

The Compact Walls

Around 100m north (right) of the Main Walls.

28
18 Black Lace Trad 8m
29
12 Pox Trad 8m
30
16 Crinkle Cut Trad 8m
31
21 Barbed Wire Love Unknown 8m

Isolated Buttress

32
17 Birds Nest Revisited Unknown 10m
33
18 Chordate Unknown 10m

Open trips

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