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Description

Shortish sea-buffed dolerite cliffs.

Access issues

Climb at low to mid tide or top rope/belay at high tide. Farmers nearby have "Do Not Trespass" signs, please respect these by walking along coastal land below fences.

Approach

Approach from the North Clifton carpark. There is a gate here restricting car access to the cape so walk past this to the carpark that faces north. Walk to the coast and follow it around 1.5kms beneath the paddock fences.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Look left of the big rock pool to find this section. Eight U-bolts up top assist with setting anchors.

The east face of the leaning block. Go up, moving left to the arête and the finish.

FA: Marcel Jackson (solo), 1989

Starts on rounded holds and follows the crack up the the less-then-vertical face. Possible to top-rope, great for practising nut placement.

Rather deceptive. Start about 3m right of Postscript. Climb the overhang and continue up the crack moving left at the top.

Set by Marcel Jackson, 1989

Up the arête, it has some funky rock arches at the top.

Up obvious chimney

FA: Unknown

steep face climbing with small wire protection for the top crux. Start 1m right of the chimney and ascend the thin crack in the wall.

FA: Marcel Jackson, 1989

Start 1m left of the vertical crack. Climb up and follow the good holds along the side of the overhang, to the top.

Up the face (just to the left of the crack), around the horizontal roof edge, up the face.

Climb the obvious vertical crack through the overhang, then keep following it up. More of a beast then it looks.

Start as for Thug. Climb right across the sweep of grey rock beneath the overhang then pull onto the face above. Continue up easily to a short wall finish.

FA: Peter Jackson, 1989

Start at the corner right of 'Clubfoot'. Climb the easy corner, then move left of the overhang to find the hidden hold for a long reach finish.

FA: Marcel Jackson, 1989

FA: Jai & Shumita, 2013

Around 100m north (right) of the Main Walls.

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