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Routes

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Grade Route
1
25 *** Powerhouse Arete Sport 12m, 5

FA: John Fisher, 1995

2
23 ** The Joy of Specs Unknown 12m
3
17 * Sawsea Trad 10m

Offwidth to the left of Sitting Bull. Good laybacking on sharp edges.

FA: Robert McMahon, Richard Schmidt, Simon Cubit & Jed Butler, 1973

4
17 * Sitting Bull Trad 10m
5
27 Experimental Method Mixed 10m, 3

The thin crack with face holds left of the overhanging offwidth. Nice moves on good holds (about 22) lead to a ridiculously thin boulder problem finish and DBB.

FA: 2009

6
20 ** First Disadvantage Trad 10m

The obvious overhanging offwidth located immediately above the first 'pitch' of Skidrow.

FA: McMahon & Wells, 1989

7
23 * Short and Sweet Trad 8m
8
18 ** Skidrow Trad 25m

FA: Robert McMahon

9

Follow the natural weakness (good wires) until it blanks out, then step right and climb the layback rail above via two bolts.

10

Start as for Deathrow.

Traverse right to gain first bolt on the face right of Deathrow. Up face past 3 bolts to join Deathrow at the first of its bolts. Finish as for Deathrow.

Start at seam/flake right of Deathrow.

Up to 2nd line of bolts on the face right of Deathrow. Up, trending left to rejoin Deathrow at the first of its bolts.

FA: anon

FA: anon

11
24 ** The Green Mile Mixed 20m, 5

Start as for Hung, Drawn and Quartered.

Up as for HDaQ but continue more directly up following line of bolts.

FA: anon

12
18 Lycra Sensation Unknown 10m
13
17 Gonad Atrophy Unknown 10m
14
18 Blackberry Custard Unknown 20m
15
15 666 Unknown 10m
16
15 The Number of the Beast Unknown 12m
17
23 ** Two Good Hooters Mixed 12m, 2
18

Starts off the ledge beside Dagenham Smile/Beezelbub. Climb the face past a ring bolt, then trend left into the flake crack above. It would probably be wise to stick clip the bolt.

FA: Tierney & Bisset, 1997

19

Bridge your way up the thin pillar on the right hand side of the ledge until its possible to traverse left into the ripper finger crack splitting the top of the buttress.

FA: Bob McMahon, 1996

20
15 Soho Crack Trad 10m

The broken crack leading up to the grassy ledge above. Ok climbing, but you'd only do it to access the nice routes starting from the ledge.

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