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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Newell, Barnsley & McMahon

The crack directly through the 2m roof. Yet to see a free ascent.

FA: Reg Marron, 1974

Crack behind the big detached pillar. Crux is clambering over the disconcerting big chockstone thing. DBB on top.

FA: Fantini, 1980

Right hand crack behind the pillar

FA: McMahon, 1973

Right hand side of detached pillar - #3 cams to start.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, jemimah narkowicz & andrew martin, 2016

A good practice route for aspiring aid climbers. The original aid version of Seize the Day. Climbs the thin seam directly up the middle of the face on mostly small wires and micro SLCDs. Originally written up as M1 in Bob McMahon's South Esk guide. Probably considerably harder (about C2+) if using clean gear only and ignoring the bolts. Note that nailing on what is now one of the gorge's most classic hard free climbs will probably result in you and your hammer getting evicted from the state and chased back into the 1960's where you belong.

FFA: Simon Parsons

FA: Michael McHugh

Start as for Long Knife, clipping the first bolt on the arete out right, and continuing up the offwidth/chimney until at the same height as the 2nd bolt.

Traverse boldly right onto the arete to gain the 2nd bolt, then traverse boldly further right to gain the line of glue-in rings heading directly up the aesthetic arete.

Large Wires and large cams #3, #4/#5 to protect the initial crack. Consider climbing on 2-ropes and dropping the first once you gain the 2nd bolt on the arete to avoid hideous drag from the trad-section.

FA: Mark Polinski

FFA: closs & lewis, 1973

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