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Routes as trad in Vamp Buttress

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Showing all 20 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
25 Pill for the Impermanent

On the upper tier, downstream of the old car stuck up in the cliff. Rap in from DBB above, using the line as a belay anchor.

FA: Isaac Lethborg

Mixed trad 5
19 No Parking
Trad 20m
23 No Standing
Mixed trad 20m, 4
17 Well Then Bruvvers

Corner crack with nice jams and lots of face holds too. Great gear the whole way. DBB lower-off.

FA: Newell, Barnsley & McMahon

Trad 25m
19 Five Bells
Trad 20m
17 Vamp

Nice climbing around the corner crack, up to ledge with tree and DBB. Continue up the splitter fist crack to chimney above. Finish up the face of the boulder (natural belay). Scramble off back of boulder, and rap from DBB located on upstream platform (35m to ground, 15m to Sign of the Times anchor).

Trad 35m
18 Great Beast

FA: Bob McMahon, 1973

Trad 20m
23 Sign Of The Times

The black face R of the Vamp corner, with x4 U bolts. Takes gear at the top and bottom. DBB

FA: Danny Ng

Mixed trad 23m, 4
20 Death on the Nile

A long abandoned Danny Ng project - recently revived after a scrub, and the addition of a couple of extra bolts and an anchor (located at the beginning of the blankness)…PS there’s no glory jug!!

Climb the detached pillar (stick clip recommended), and onto the face via x2 U’s and x2 carrots. DBB. The originally conceived finish can still be attempted (take a blue walnut, or a .4 camalot) to the SOTT anchor, and is an open project. Go for your life…

Mixed trad 15m, 4
24 Orient Express

The trench like groove up the arete on the far RH side of the main buttress. x4 carrot bolts, plus a #1 camalot. DBB

FA: Danny Ng

Mixed trad 23m, 4
25 Pavlova
Trad 20m
20 Cake Slice
Trad 20m
18 Fantissimo

Crack behind the big detached pillar. Crux is clambering over the disconcerting big chockstone thing. DBB on top, but don’t rap/lower directly down line as ropes can jam in crack

FA: Fantini, 1980

Trad 15m
19 Rags of Comfort

Right hand crack behind the pillar

FA: McMahon, 1973

Trad 15m
20 Dick Reach

Right hand side of detached pillar - #3 cams to start.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, jemimah narkowicz & andrew martin, 23 Oct 2016

Mixed trad 12m, 3
26 Seize The Day

A striking line, and a contender for the best route in the gorge. Originally done with 3 bolts (as it stands now it is equiped in the same style as the first ascent), it was the hardest climb in Tasmania at the time of the first ascent.

Start by climbing Long Knife and at ~5m place a runner (slinging the massive chockstone with a 240 runner seems to work a treat) start traversing left until the small seam is reached, place small RPs in the thin seam and then climb past a few FHs and good RPs at the lip to double chains at the top. A small cam - red or green C3 - can be nice for the very top.

FA: Simon Parsons, 1986

Mixed trad 25m, 3
28 Seize The Day Direct
Mixed trad 20m, 5
14 Long Knife
Trad 25m
28 Road to War

Start as for Long Knife, clipping the first bolt on the arete out right, and continuing up the offwidth/chimney until at the same height as the 2nd bolt.

Traverse boldly right onto the arete to gain the 2nd bolt, then traverse boldly further right to gain the line of glue-in rings heading directly up the aesthetic arete.

Large Wires and large cams #3, #4/#5 to protect the initial crack. Consider climbing on 2-ropes and dropping the first once you gain the 2nd bolt on the arete to avoid hideous drag from the trad-section.

FA: Mark Polinski

Mixed trad 28m, 8
20 To the Crux and Beyond

FFA: closs & lewis, 1973

Trad 18m

Showing all 20 routes.

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