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Description

Wallcliffe is a fantastic limestone crag on the southern bank of the Margaret River. It's a relatively small crag and the best routes are in the range of 23 to 27. Most routes are well bolted and equipped with ring bolts. Unfortunately this is a very popular residence for bees and wasps, and it's not uncommon for certain routes to be unclimbable due to bee hives.

The crag is continuing to be developed with several new routes having been bolted in 2015

Ethic

Wallcliffe currently has some closed project. If you see red tape on a bolt, then please respect that the route is not yet open for all to climb.

Routes

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Grade Route

Sector One

The westernmost end of the crag.

1

First climb ever done on Wallcliff (21). Steep, big holds, didn't take much cleaning. Rebolted A. Corbe Jan 1994

FA: P. Greenwell & S. Tribbeck, 1991

2
25 Banana Bender Mixed 12m, 1

First accent Jan. 1991 after top-rope practice sessions. First lead (Pete Greenwell) prompted by finding two climbers from Queensland practicing the route. Hence the name "Banana Bender" Nice "dyno" required on the overhang to finish.

3
26 * When I Was A Sperm Sport 12m, 4

FA: C. Jones, 1995

4
Project Sport Project 15m

Set by S. Richardson, 1992

5
23 *** Vagitarian Sport 15m

First line of bolts to the left of When I Was A Sperm. Head up to the cave which is large enough to sit in. Then continue over the bulge though a series of testing moves until hitting the juggy flake at the end.

Set by Jonas Hollingworth

FFA: Jonas Hollingworth, 2015

6
24 ** Honey Splash Sport 15m

Set by Jonas Hollingworth

FFA: Jonas Hollingworth, 2015

7
17 Royal Jelly Sport 15m, 3

Bouldery move to roof and up past 3 bolts

FA: Massiah, 1992

8
18 The Sting Sport 15m, 4

Nice climbing. New bolt added at start so natural gear no longer needed.

FA: Massiah, 1992

9
22 ** The Hired Gun Sport 18m, 4

A cruxy start will see you hurling yourself up heavenly tufas to a sharp finish.

FA: S. Richardson, 1992

10
16 Corner Unknown 15m

FA: Greenwell, 1990

Sector Two

The highest section of the crag.

11
19 * Headbutt Sport 15m, 6

Start 2 metres right of Damage Control and follow the bolts up the well featured face on great rock. Through the bulge on good holds then a delicate traverse left to the base of the flared crack. Finish up Damage Control

FA: K. Hartley, 2014

12
20 * Damage Control Sport 15m, 6

Start 5 or so metres left of Hired Gun between Corner and Red Face at the cave with graffiti.. Jump to a starting hold at the lip of the cave and crank up on jugs to the first bolt, swing out left then up and right into a nice position below the bulge. Over this, then straight up the steep, flared layback crack finishing at a lower-off. 6 br’s, bolt plates required. Add a grade if you are short..

FA: C. Newton-Palmer, 2014

13
16 Red Face Unknown 15m

FA: Greenwell, 1990

14
18 Sickle Unknown 15m

FA: Greenwell, 1990

15
22 * Life According to Gimp Sport 13m, 4

The snaking line through roof at start.

FA: Bell, 1995

16
24 *** Fun, Love and Joy Sport 18m, 6

Climb line of jugs across roof. Desperately climb up the headwall to anchors. Could be a 23.

FA: S. Richardson, 1993

17
23 * Banana Arma Rama Sport 18m, 4

Up the big flake between Bee Free and Fun, Love and Joy to the very high first bolt. Then continue on pockets up the face. Crux is directly above the first bolt.

FA: Smoothy, 1991

18

Put a long draw at the anchor of Banana Arma Rama, then continue slightly left onto the top section of Bee Free.

19
27 ** Bee Free Sport 25m, 6

Up difficult start to jugs, followed by long crux section. Elegant, powerful and sustained. Best face climbing at the crag and a Margaret River classic!

FA: S. Richardson, 1993

20
26 ** Freebies Sport 25m, 7

Climb the face left of Bee Free with ferocity.

FA: Booth, 1990

21

Second route put up here, late 1990. Pete Greenwell /Steve Trebbeck. Attacked by bees when first inspecting route. Lead on sight, pulled up over the lip to finish, face-to-face with a small python sunning itself. Has been rebolted since FA.

FA: Dunbar, 1991

22
25 Escape Route Sport 24m, 7

Up and out of cave by squeezing between flowstone to a pumpy crux.

FA: Booth, 1990

Sector Three

The left most section of the crag dominated by sharp rock.

23
24 Bitch'n Unknown 10m, 3

Short and powerful roof climbing.

FA: S. Richardson, 1995

24
24 * Ebb and Flow Unknown 15m, 3

The overhanging, flared corner. Bolts are old!

FA: Pinkard, 1991

25
19 ** Thai Massage Sport 20m

Start 2m right of Soleless and get a massage on the way up

FA: J. Hollingworth, 2015

26
18 ** Soleless Sport 20m

Titanium ring bolts on left side of cave.

27
18 * Working Bee Sport 18m, 5

Line of ring bolts 4 m left of Soleless. Good fun and great warmup for harder routes.

FA: Rob Baker, Olly Morrell & jonas hollingworth, 23rd Dec

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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