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Description

Wallcliffe is a fantastic limestone crag on the southern bank of the Margaret River. It's a relatively small crag and the best routes are in the range of 23 to 27. Most routes are well bolted and equipped with ring bolts. Unfortunately this is a very popular residence for bees and wasps, and it's not uncommon for certain routes to be unclimbable due to bee hives.

The crag is continuing to be developed with several new routes having been bolted in 2015

Access issues

!!! Climbing is not permitted at Wallcliffe !!!

See CAWA website for more details:

http://www.climberswa.asn.au/blog/2015/05/important-wallcliffe-access/

Ethic

Wallcliffe currently has some closed project. If you see red tape on a bolt, then please respect that the route is not yet open for all to climb.

Routes

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Grade Route

The westernmost end of the crag.

First climb ever done on Wallcliff (21). Steep, big holds, didn't take much cleaning. Rebolted A. Corbe Jan 1994

FA: P. Greenwell & S. Tribbeck, 1991

First accent Jan. 1991 after top-rope practice sessions. First lead (Pete Greenwell) prompted by finding two climbers from Queensland practicing the route. Hence the name "Banana Bender" Nice "dyno" required on the overhang to finish.

FA: C. Jones, 1995

Set by S. Richardson, 1992

Shares the first two bolts with Vagitarian and departs right at the cave. Also shares the same anchors as Vagitarian

First line of bolts to the left of When I Was A Sperm. Head up to the cave which is large enough to sit in. Then continue over the bulge though a series of testing moves until hitting the juggy flake at the end.

Set by Jonas Hollingworth

FFA: Jonas Hollingworth, 2015

A fantastic new addition to the Wallcliffe crag, this route is a very sustained test piece. Powerful moves to get up past the second bolt before getting into a solid position for a shake out. Continue through another sequence of strong moves to get up to the underclings before moving into the crux sequence. The crux involves committed moves on thin crimps, pinches and sparse feet, before getting to the 5th bolt. A truly great route, very testing and significantly harder than the other grade 24 climbs at the crag.

Set by Jonas Hollingworth

FFA: Jonas Hollingworth, 2015

Bouldery move to roof and up past 3 bolts

FA: Massiah, 1992

Nice climbing. New bolt added at start so natural gear no longer needed.

FA: Massiah, 1992

A cruxy start will see you hurling yourself up heavenly tufas to a sharp finish.

FA: S. Richardson, 1992

FA: Greenwell, 1990

The highest section of the crag.

Start 2 metres right of Damage Control and follow the bolts up the well featured face on great rock. Through the bulge on good holds then a delicate traverse left to the base of the flared crack. Finish up Damage Control

FA: K. Hartley, 2014

Start 5 or so metres left of Hired Gun between Corner and Red Face at the cave with graffiti.. Jump to a starting hold at the lip of the cave and crank up on jugs to the first bolt, swing out left then up and right into a nice position below the bulge. Over this, then straight up the steep, flared layback crack finishing at a lower-off. 6 br’s, bolt plates required. Add a grade if you are short..

FA: C. Newton-Palmer, 2014

FA: Greenwell, 1990

FA: Greenwell, 1990

The snaking line through roof at start.

FA: Bell, 1995

Climb line of jugs across roof. Desperately climb up the headwall to anchors. Officially a 24, but general consensus is that its a 23

FA: S. Richardson, 1993

Up the big flake between Bee Free and Fun, Love and Joy to the very high first bolt. Then continue on pockets up the face. Crux is directly above the first bolt.

FA: Smoothy, 1991

Put a long draw at the anchor of Banana Arma Rama, then continue slightly left onto the top section of Bee Free.

Up difficult start to jugs, followed by long crux section. Elegant, powerful and sustained. Best face climbing at the crag and a Margaret River classic!

FA: S. Richardson, 1993

Climb the face left of Bee Free with ferocity.

FA: Booth, 1990

Second route put up here, late 1990. Pete Greenwell /Steve Trebbeck. Attacked by bees when first inspecting route. Lead on sight, pulled up over the lip to finish, face-to-face with a small python sunning itself. Has been rebolted since FA.

FA: Dunbar, 1991

Up and out of cave by squeezing between flowstone to a pumpy crux.

FA: Booth, 1990

The left most section of the crag dominated by sharp rock.

Short and powerful roof climbing. with some rusty old bolts

FA: S. Richardson, 1995

The overhanging, flared corner. Bolts are old!

FA: Pinkard, 1991

Start 2m right of Soleless and get a massage on the way up

FA: J. Hollingworth, 2015

Titanium ring bolts on left side of cave.

Line of ring bolts 4 m left of Soleless. Good fun and great warmup for harder routes.

FA: Rob Baker, Olly Morrell & jonas hollingworth, 2014

Activity

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