A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Wallcliffe 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 114.992989, -33.972461

Description:

Wallcliffe is a fantastic limestone crag on the southern bank of the Margaret River. It's a relatively small crag and the best routes are in the range of 23 to 27. Most routes are well bolted and equipped with ring bolts. Unfortunately this is a very popular residence for bees and wasps, and it's not uncommon for certain routes to be unclimbable due to bee hives.

The crag is continuing to be developed with several new routes having been bolted in 2015

Access Issues:

!!! Climbing is not permitted at Wallcliffe !!!

See CAWA website for more details:

http://www.climberswa.asn.au/blog/2015/05/important-wallcliffe-access/

Ethic:

Wallcliffe currently has some closed project. If you see red tape on a bolt, then please respect that the route is not yet open for all to climb.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Sector One

The westernmost end of the crag.

1 Kyle (Bush Tucker Bitching)

First climb ever done on Wallcliff (21). Steep, big holds, didn't take much cleaning. Rebolted A. Corbe Jan 1994

FA: P. Greenwell,S. Tribbeck, 1991

21 Sport 10m, 2
2 Banana Bender

First accent Jan. 1991 after top-rope practice sessions. First lead (Pete Greenwell) prompted by finding two climbers from Queensland practicing the route. Hence the name "Banana Bender" Nice "dyno" required on the overhang to finish.

25 Mixed 12m, 1
3 * When I Was A Sperm

FA: C. Jones, 1995

26 Sport 12m, 4
4 Project

Set by S. Richardson, 1992

Sport Project 15m
5 Midlife Enlightenment

Shares the first two bolts with Vagitarian and departs right at the cave. Also shares the same anchors as Vagitarian

23 Sport
6 *** Vagitarian

First line of bolts to the left of When I Was A Sperm. Head up to the cave which is large enough to sit in. Then continue over the bulge though a series of testing moves until hitting the juggy flake at the end.

Set by Jonas Hollingworth

FFA: Jonas Hollingworth, 2015

23 Sport 15m
7 *** Honey Splash

A fantastic new addition to the Wallcliffe crag, this route is a very sustained test piece. Powerful moves to get up past the second bolt before getting into a solid position for a shake out. Continue through another sequence of strong moves to get up to the underclings before moving into the crux sequence. The crux involves committed moves on thin crimps, pinches and sparse feet, before getting to the 5th bolt. A truly great route, very testing and significantly harder than the other grade 24 climbs at the crag.

Set by Jonas Hollingworth

FFA: Jonas Hollingworth, 2015

24 Sport 15m, 5
8 Royal Jelly

Bouldery move to roof and up past 3 bolts

FA: Massiah, 1992

17 Sport 15m, 3
9 The Sting

Nice climbing. New bolt added at start so natural gear no longer needed.

FA: Massiah, 1992

18 Sport 15m, 4
10 ** The Hired Gun

A cruxy start will see you hurling yourself up heavenly tufas to a sharp finish.

FA: S. Richardson, 1992

22 Sport 18m, 4
11 Corner

FA: Greenwell, 1990

16 Unknown 15m

Sector Two

The highest section of the crag.

12 * Headbutt

Start 2 metres right of Damage Control and follow the bolts up the well featured face on great rock. Through the bulge on good holds then a delicate traverse left to the base of the flared crack. Finish up Damage Control

FA: K. Hartley, 2014

19 Sport 15m, 6
13 * Damage Control

Start 5 or so metres left of Hired Gun between Corner and Red Face at the cave with graffiti.. Jump to a starting hold at the lip of the cave and crank up on jugs to the first bolt, swing out left then up and right into a nice position below the bulge. Over this, then straight up the steep, flared layback crack finishing at a lower-off. 6 br’s, bolt plates required. Add a grade if you are short..

FA: C. Newton-Palmer, 2014

20 Sport 15m, 6
14 Red Face

FA: Greenwell, 1990

16 Unknown 15m
15 Sickle

FA: Greenwell, 1990

18 Unknown 15m
16 * Life According to Gimp

The snaking line through roof at start.

FA: Bell, 1995

22 Sport 13m, 4
17 *** Fun, Love and Joy

Climb line of jugs across roof. Desperately climb up the headwall to anchors. Officially a 24, but general consensus is that its a 23

FA: S. Richardson, 1993

24 Sport 18m, 6
18 * Banana Arma Rama

Up the big flake between Bee Free and Fun, Love and Joy to the very high first bolt. Then continue on pockets up the face. Crux is directly above the first bolt.

FA: Smoothy, 1991

23 Sport 18m, 2
19 ** Banana Arma Rama Alternate Finish

Put a long draw at the anchor of Banana Arma Rama, then continue slightly left onto the top section of Bee Free.

24 Sport 25m, 4
20 ** Bee Free

Up difficult start to jugs, followed by long crux section. Elegant, powerful and sustained. Best face climbing at the crag and a Margaret River classic!

FA: S. Richardson, 1993

27 Sport 25m, 6
21 ** Freebies

Climb the face left of Bee Free with ferocity.

FA: Booth, 1990

26 Sport 25m, 7
22 *** I'm Too Sexy For My Python

Second route put up here, late 1990. Pete Greenwell /Steve Trebbeck. Attacked by bees when first inspecting route. Lead on sight, pulled up over the lip to finish, face-to-face with a small python sunning itself. Has been rebolted since FA.

FA: Dunbar, 1991

24 Sport 25m, 7
23 Escape Route

Up and out of cave by squeezing between flowstone to a pumpy crux.

FA: Booth, 1990

25 Sport 24m, 7

Sector Three

The left most section of the crag dominated by sharp rock.

24 Bitch'n

Short and powerful roof climbing.

FA: S. Richardson, 1995

24 Unknown 10m, 3
25 * Ebb and Flow

The overhanging, flared corner. Bolts are old!

FA: Pinkard, 1991

24 Unknown 15m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
26 * Thai Massage

Start 2m right of Soleless and get a massage on the way up

FA: J. Hollingworth, 2015

19 Sport 20m
27 * Soleless

Titanium ring bolts on left side of cave.

18 Sport 20m
28 Working Bee

Line of ring bolts 4 m left of Soleless. Good fun and great warmup for harder routes.

FA: Rob Baker, Olly Morrell, jonas hollingworth, 2014

18 Sport 18m, 5

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
16 Corner Unknown 15m
Red Face Unknown 15m
17 Royal Jelly Sport 15m, 3
18 Sickle Unknown 15m
* Soleless Sport 20m
The Sting Sport 15m, 4
Working Bee Sport 18m, 5
19 * Headbutt Sport 15m, 6
* Thai Massage Sport 20m
20 * Damage Control Sport 15m, 6
21 Kyle (Bush Tucker Bitching) Sport 10m, 2
22 * Life According to Gimp Sport 13m, 4
** The Hired Gun Sport 18m, 4
23 * Banana Arma Rama Sport 18m, 2
Midlife Enlightenment Sport
*** Vagitarian Sport 15m
24 ** Banana Arma Rama Alternate Finish Sport 25m, 4
Bitch'n Unknown 10m, 3
* Ebb and Flow Unknown 15m, 3
*** Fun, Love and Joy Sport 18m, 6
*** Honey Splash Sport 15m, 5
*** I'm Too Sexy For My Python Sport 25m, 7
25 Banana Bender Mixed 12m, 1
Escape Route Sport 24m, 7
26 ** Freebies Sport 25m, 7
* When I Was A Sperm Sport 12m, 4
27 ** Bee Free Sport 25m, 6
? Project Sport Project 15m