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Access issues inherited from Willyabrup

Access is through private property firebreak/trail. Please don't litter. There is a long drop toilet in the National Park with an amazing view. National Park so no fires no camping and no dogs. Please ensure all litter is removed and climbers are seen to be doing the right thing.

Ethic inherited from Willyabrup

The local climbing association has published some Ethics\Guidelines which apply.


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Grade Route

Start from gully right of Stainless Steel and step left to a bolt. Continue up headwall pass a second bolt.

FA: K. Carrigan, R. Tyson & D. Cook, 1986

Start as Stainless Steel, but head right pass bolt and up right side of ramp.

FA: D. Wagland & M. Grommers, 1986

Follow right trending crack with bomber gear placements to below first bolt. Delicate face climbing past three bolts before arriving at the roof. Follow crack up roof to finishing jugs.

Start as Heavy Metal, but at crux, trend right to enter sustained crux section and big run out towards top.

Start in crack as for Stainless Steel. Place cam and move directly up to FH. Crux is reaching 4th FH. Exit with big moves over roof and top out.

Start as Sirius, but when Ulster Madness is reached on large ledge, head right up ramps to horizontal break. Has almost no protection.

FA: K. Carrigan & F. Marshall, 1986

P1: Climb diagonal crack and horizontal break to the large ledge. Belay in corner. P2: Follow corner up into easy arête.

P1: Right of Delving Devoids is a thin seam with a distinctive bolt (needs replacing). Go straight up to ledge. P2: Continue straight up wall above

FA: P. McKenzie & C. Cartwright

Entails some sinister moves P1 Stick clip bolt on lip of overhang and launch leftwards to a small corner and continue up to first belay of Sirius. P2: Continue as for Sirius, up easy arête.

FA: D. Wagland & N. Hayes, 1986

Alternate finish for Delving Devoids. Continue straight up wall from belay with marginal protection.

Up corner roof section. Really hard start leads to enjoyable climbing up corner. Can be done in two pitches to minimise rope drag. Grade has gone up to 21 after a hold broke.

Start the climb the same as for Mobjob, and once through the first roof traverse diagonally left and upward staying to the left of both ring bolts. Pull through the small roof on the arete 5 metres to the left of blowjob to top out. The climb is mixed with two bolts and the rest natural pro.

FA: Olly Morell, Feb 2015

"Fantastic climbing. A cairn can be used to reach first holds, then up corner through overhangs and roofs to the top."

Ends up following the same top half as "Hand Job" however traversing left below the 2nd roof under the bolt.

Up prominent overhang roof on deceptively 'good' holds. Continue over roof on easy finish.


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