Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. South West 273 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 115.044778, -34.073520

1.1. Moses Rocks 45 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 114.993973, -33.777917

Description:

Short climbs from 6m to 15m. Grades range from 10 through to 21.

Check http://www.climberswa.asn.au/PDF/Moses_Rocks_Jan_2012.pdf for a guide.

Approach:

The crag is approx 260km drive from Perth and forms the headland just north of and visible from Willyabrup Cliffs.

Head towards Margaret River on the Bussell Highway. Approx 18km after the roundabout at Vasse Newtown turn right onto Metricup Road and when this ends turn right onto Caves Road. After 3km turn left onto Moses Rock Road which is followed for 3.5km, at the T junction turn left where the road turns to a gravel surface usually horribly corrugated. Where the road descends towards the beach it becomes sealed again all the way to the car park, at which there are no facilities.

Moses Rocks comprises six areas which are a short 10min stroll from the car park, heading south.

History:

The first routes at Moses Rocks were recorded in 1987 and by 1990 it seemed activity at this crag was exhausted, however in recent years a number of good lines have been established. The earlier routes were last listed in Margaret River Rock (1996), which has been out of print for some time and is hard to come by. This mini-guide has been developed to continue to allow everyone access to the knowledge of the area and to record the more recently developed climbs.

1.1.1. Northern Blocks 10 routes in Area

Summary:

1.1.2. Red Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:

1.1.3. Blake's Block 4 routes in Area

Summary:

1.1.4. Hands Up Wall 17 routes in Area

Summary:

1.1.5. Freddy's Zawn 5 routes in Area

Summary:

1.1.6. Rumpole's Rock 6 routes in Area

Summary:

1.2. Willyabrup 146 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 114.998780, -33.804953

Unique Features And Strengths:

Sea cliffs with amazing views and the opportunity to see dolphins playing in the surf and migrating whales.

Description:

Sea Cliffs, great atmosphere and exposure. Sure they are not as high as other cliffs on the south coast but they are amazing.

Access Issues:

Access is through private property firebreak/trail. Please don't litter. There is a long drop toilet in the National Park with an amazing view.

Approach:

Car Access is best down Wilyabrup Road off Caves Road. Follow track to a small parking area. Park here, cross a fence using the styles, follow the fire break down and across a stream and back up the other side. Stick to the path and walk towards the sea. At the end turn left and then you must cross another fence to access the National Park. Follow the trail down to arrive at the top of the sea cliffs.

Where To Stay:

Camp at Gracetown Caravan Park. There are many other options. Margaret River Town is relatively nearby too.

Ethic:

The local climbing association has published some Ethics\Guidelines which apply. http://www.climberswa.asn.au/cawa/cawa-code-of-bolting-and-new-route-development/

1.2.1. Inner Space Wall 16 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 114.997787, -33.806425

1.2.2. Fat Chance Wall 18 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport

1.2.3. One For The Road 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport

1.2.4. Hope Buttresses 13 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Unknown

1.2.5. Steel Wall 19 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 114.998378, -33.805676

1.2.6. Stormcock Area 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

1.2.7. The Organ Pipes 9 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.8. Driftwood Bay 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.9. Beginners Wall 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.10. The Terrace 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.11. Banana Wall 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 114.999325, -33.803304

1.2.12. Peach Face 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Aid

1.3. Gracetown Crag 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.4. Wallcliffe 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 114.992989, -33.972461

1.5. Bob's Hollow 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 115.000759, -34.064214

Unique Features And Strengths:

Steep Limestone next to the ocean.

Description:

A sports crag on steep to vertical limestone, with solid (mostly) stalactites and stalagmites 100m from the Indian Ocean.The rock is fantastic to climb on on although there are some sandy sections, and the upper parts of the climbs may be quite sharp.

Access Issues:

The crag is in the Leeuwin- Naturaliste National Park. Whilst the local rangers seem to be quite unsure if climbing is allowed without a permit, it may be wise to contact the CALM office in Busselton.

Approach:

2WD (RECOMMENED): 1st option: Follow Caves Rd south and turn onto Contos Rd. Follow this till you reach Contos Spring. Park here and walk northwards along the beach for around 45 minutes. Once you reach the second rocky outcrops entering the ocean, take the track that heads inland towards a large cave. Once at the cave/ cliff face turn right and follow this to a juction. Take the right option which remains at the base of the cliffs and walk for under 5 minutes. When you reach the bolts in the cliff you are there! 2nd Option: On Contos Rd park at the Cape to Cape walking track. Take this track northwards for roughly 45 minutes. It will follow the ridge line until it descends to the junction at the base of the cliffs previously mentioned. Turn left when you reach the track junction and walk for a few more minutes.

4WD (REALLY REALLY NOT RECOMMENDED): Travel south on Caves Rd for 2.5 km from the Caves Rd/ Redgate Rd junction. Take the 4WD track on you right which is just before the cave access road for Calganup Cave. Travel along the track (Bob's Hollow Rd) for around 3km until its end. From the end of the track follow the walking to the base of the cliffs which takes you to the cave just north of Bob's Hollow. Keep folling the track southwards until you reach the track junction previously mentioned. THE TRACK IS VERY ROCKY WHICH GETS WORSE AND WORSE AS YOU TRAVEL ALONG IT. EVEN A RAISED 4WD WILL STRUGGLE NOT TO CLIP SOME OF THE LARGE PROTRUDING ROCKS ON THE ROAD. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.

Where To Stay:

Contos campground is the closest legitimate choice, although it has been known for people to camp in the cave to the north of Bob's Hollow, although this is not 'permitted' by CALM. Contos Campground also links up to the Cape to Cape walking track. The is also plenty of other accommodation in the region with Margaret River close by.

Ethic:

Bob's Hollow is a sports crag and it seems many routes have been rebolted in the last year or two (2012- 2013). Chalk seems to be widely used.

History:

Earliest climb seems to be from 1994.

1.6. Cosy Corner 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 115.034569, -34.268222

Description:
Approach:

Head south towards Augusta from Margaret River via Bussell Highway, cutting across to Caves Road at / after Karridale (note Caves Road is actually a left turn at the intersection with Hamelin Bay Road!). Turn right onto Cosy Corner Road. Drive to the very end of Cosy Corner Road (about 3.5km) and park at the large car park with the fishermen a t Knobby Head and enjoy(!) the 1.5km walk down to the boulder areas along the beach, OR after abou t 2.3kms along Cosy Corner Road, there is a 4WD track (also part of it is the Cape to Cape trac k) on your left where you can pull in and park your 2WD urban vehicle behind some trees and walk the 4W D track (20 minutes at good pace). If you have a real 4WD vehicle you can continue down the 4 WD track. At the fork at the 1.3km mark take the track that continues on towards the coast to ge t to the 4WD parking at the bouldering areas. Taking the beach or Cape to Cape routes are longer. Do not camp here as the Ranger does do inspections and has fined people. The walk out take s a bit longer as it is sandy and uphill.

1.6.1. Wave Wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:

1.6.2. Main Area 10 routes in Area

Summary: