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First butress right of top camp. Can't miss it.

Access issues inherited from Moonarie

National Park

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)


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Grade Route
12 Rolling Stone Trad 85m
24 Global Arse-Kicker Trad 20m
17 ** Vortex Trad 45m 2

Rap chains at the top of the first pitch. 30 meters rap.

19 ** The Buckets of Jism Sport 20m
21 Bird Of Prey Mixed 25m, 3

The wall perpendicular to the But Holland face on Flying Buttress. Start on ledge next to the tree. Start up the initial crack and then head straight up the wall past 3 bolts to finish at the Vortex belay.

FA: Rob Baker & Vaughan Thomas, 2001

23 Loaded Bowel Mixed 25m, 2

The left line on the buttress left of the Flying Buttress. Start about 15 left of Flying Buttress. Up past 2 bolts then right to break (2 camalot) and through roof and corner to finish up slab.6 bolts and rap chains (40m to ground).

FFA: Rob Baker & Steve Pollard, 2002

FA: Rob Baker & Steve Pollard, 2002

25 Legendary Strongman Mixed 25m, 1

Crack through roof right of Loaded Bowel, with one bolt.

FFA: Stuart Wythe & HB, 2003

5 Mighty Maggot Trad 20m
15 Mousestopper Trad 110m
24 Swallow Hard Trad 45m
23 Birds of a Feather Trad 30m
25 Gambler Trad 17m

The face buttress left of Flying Buttress. Scramble up to crack 2m left of Flying buttress. Up crack to ledge. Then step right around small roof and up onto face, keeping just left of the arête. Skirt around base of the pillar to large ledge below But Holland is a Country wall. DBB/Rap chains (40m to ground).

FFA: Rob Baker & Vaughan Thomas October, 2002

15 *** Flying Buttress Trad 110m 3
21 Frozen in Time Mixed 25m, 1

From ledge as for P2 of birdman. Up slab left of "birdbrain's" corner to overlap , traverse right (bolt) up small corner to a belay on ledge . Escape to chains on arête.

FFA: David Bowen & John Marshall, 2002

22 * Swooping Pterodactyls Mixed 75m 3, 11

Start's right of "birdbrain's" corner. (1) straight up passing 4 bolts through bulges to a stance under roof , left through roof crack and up to dbb (chains).(2) 30m 20 ,through roof past 2 bolt's then head for big ramp past 3 more bolts ,belay at top of ramp on bollard. (3) 20m 20 Up steep scoops past 2 bolts, onto ledge up ramp and headwall various sling threads, DBB on ledge. (50m rap to chains on pitch 1 possible)

FFA: 2001

FA: David Bowen & John Marshall, 2002


FA: David Bowen & John Marshall Alt

23 M1 Birdbrain Aid 100m
17 These Eagles Trad 60m
17 Caught Short Trad 60m 2

The crack and face between These Eagles and Icarus. (1) 17 40m Start as for These Eagles and Icarus and once over initial roof had straight up to scoopy crack and horizontals to spacious ledge. (2) 15 20m Move up and right around right end of roof and straight up the wall above to top. Scramble off.

FFA: Rob Baker & Dave Ceber, 2003

19 *** Icarus Trad 60m
16 Waxen Wings Trad 25m

A variant second pitch to Icarus. Climb the crack between Icarus and Ultion till it expires, straight up through bulge and up to airy moves through roof at shallow corner, straight up wall to ledge.

FFA: Dave Bowen & John Marshall, 2003

12 * Ultion Trad 60m 2

Up the corner to the right of Icarus. Recommend Taking #10 & #11 hexes or some large cams.

(1) 35m 13 Climb up the main corner, and right hand crack. Belay from inside the large cave.

(2) 25m 13 Follow the crack and the corner. Can top out and come down main descent gully or stop at the "Hold Tight" chains on the right just before exiting the corner. 59m abseil.

FA: John Austin & Dave MacNamara, 1968

12 Cut Lunch Trad 35m
19 Micro Adventure Mixed 22m, 1

A nice wall of solid grampians like rock. Start 15 m right of Ultion, up on a ledge just right of Cut Lunch. (the tree in the latter's description has since fallen over and died.) climb the groove as for Ciao Professore and step left onto the face and up right. Move back left to a small ledge at horizontal break. Up left side of face past a bolt, then back right to climb chimney/pillar

FFA: Mike Broadbent & Tony Barker, 2001

17 Ciao Professore Trad 25m

Start 15m right of Ultion. Up groove to base of wall and right onto detached flake. Up to incipient groove crack which leads to the ramp below the triangular roof. Up crack to left for 5m , then traverse right to small roof. Step up right to arete.

FFA: Mike Broadbent & Tony Barker, 2001


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