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Table of contents

1. Flying Buttress 28 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 138.618207, -31.613422


First butress right of top camp. Can't miss it.

Access Issues: inherited from Moonarie

National Park

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rolling Stone 12 Trad 85m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Global Arse-Kicker 24 Trad 20m
3 *** Vortex

Rap chains at the top of the first pitch. 30 meters rap.

17 Trad 45m 2
4 ** The Buckets of Jism 19 Sport 20m
5 ** But Holland is a Country 26 Trad 20m
6 Bird Of Prey

The wall perpendicular to the But Holland face on Flying Buttress. Start on ledge next to the tree. Start up the initial crack and then head straight up the wall past 3 bolts to finish at the Vortex belay.

FA: Rob Baker, Vaughan Thomas,, 2001

21 Mixed 25m, 3
7 Loaded Bowel

The left line on the buttress left of the Flying Buttress. Start about 15 left of Flying Buttress. Up past 2 bolts then right to break (2 camalot) and through roof and corner to finish up slab.6 bolts and rap chains (40m to ground).

FFA: Rob Baker and Steve Pollard, 2002

FA: Rob Baker and Steve Pollard, 2002

23 Mixed 25m, 2
8 Legendary Strongman

Crack through roof right of Loaded Bowel, with one bolt.

FFA: Stuart Wythe, HB, 2003

25 Mixed 25m, 1
9 Mighty Maggot 5 Trad 20m
10 Mousestopper 15 Trad 110m
11 Swallow Hard 24 Trad 45m
12 Birds of a Feather 23 Trad 30m
13 Gambler

The face buttress left of Flying Buttress. Scramble up to crack 2m left of Flying buttress. Up crack to ledge. Then step right around small roof and up onto face, keeping just left of the arête. Skirt around base of the pillar to large ledge below But Holland is a Country wall. DBB/Rap chains (40m to ground).

FFA: Rob Baker, Vaughan Thomas October, 2002

25 Trad 17m
14 *** Flying Buttress 15 Trad 110m 3
15 ** Flying Buttress Direct Finish 15 Trad 15m
16 Frozen in Time

From ledge as for P2 of birdman. Up slab left of "birdbrain's" corner to overlap , traverse right (bolt) up small corner to a belay on ledge . Escape to chains on arête.

FFA: David Bowen and John Marshall, 2002

21 Mixed 25m, 1
17 ** Swooping Pterodactyls

Start's right of "birdbrain's" corner. (1) straight up passing 4 bolts through bulges to a stance under roof , left through roof crack and up to dbb (chains).(2) 30m 20 ,through roof past 2 bolt's then head for big ramp past 3 more bolts ,belay at top of ramp on bollard. (3) 20m 20 Up steep scoops past 2 bolts, onto ledge up ramp and headwall various sling threads, DBB on ledge. (50m rap to chains on pitch 1 possible)

FFA: 2001

FA: David Bowen and John Marshall, 2002

22 Mixed 75m 3, 11
18 ** Swooping Pterodactyls 1st pitch

FA: David Bowen ,John Marshall Alt

22 Trad 25m
19 Birdbrain 23 M1 Aid 100m
20 These Eagles 17 Trad 60m
21 Caught Short

The crack and face between These Eagles and Icarus. (1) 17 40m Start as for These Eagles and Icarus and once over initial roof had straight up to scoopy crack and horizontals to spacious ledge. (2) 15 20m Move up and right around right end of roof and straight up the wall above to top. Scramble off.

FFA: Rob Baker, Dave Ceber, 2003

17 Trad 60m 2
22 *** Icarus 19 Trad 60m
23 Waxen Wings

A variant second pitch to Icarus. Climb the crack between Icarus and Ultion till it expires, straight up through bulge and up to airy moves through roof at shallow corner, straight up wall to ledge.

FFA: Dave Bowen, John Marshall, 2003

16 Trad 25m
24 Icarus Variant start 19 Trad 30m
25 * Ultion

Up the corner to the right of Icarus. Recommend Taking #10 & #11 hexes or some large cams.

(1) 35m 13 Climb up the main corner, and right hand crack. Belay from inside the large cave.

(2) 25m 13 Follow the crack and the corner. Can top out and come down main descent gully or stop at the "Hold Tight" chains on the right just before exiting the corner. 59m abseil.

FA: John Austin, Dave MacNamara, 1968

12 Trad 60m 2
26 Cut Lunch 12 Trad 35m
27 Micro Adventure

A nice wall of solid grampians like rock. Start 15 m right of Ultion, up on a ledge just right of Cut Lunch. (the tree in the latter's description has since fallen over and died.) climb the groove as for Ciao Professore and step left onto the face and up right. Move back left to a small ledge at horizontal break. Up left side of face past a bolt, then back right to climb chimney/pillar

FFA: Mike Broadbent, Tony Barker, 2001

19 Mixed 22m, 1
28 Ciao Professore

Start 15m right of Ultion. Up groove to base of wall and right onto detached flake. Up to incipient groove crack which leads to the ramp below the triangular roof. Up crack to left for 5m , then traverse right to small roof. Step up right to arete.

FFA: Mike Broadbent, Tony Barker, 2001

17 Trad 25m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5 Mighty Maggot Trad 20m
12 Cut Lunch Trad 35m
Rolling Stone Trad 85m
* Ultion Trad 60m 2
15 *** Flying Buttress Trad 110m 3
** Flying Buttress Direct Finish Trad 15m
Mousestopper Trad 110m
16 Waxen Wings Trad 25m
17 Caught Short Trad 60m 2
Ciao Professore Trad 25m
These Eagles Trad 60m
*** Vortex Trad 45m 2
19 *** Icarus Trad 60m
Icarus Variant start Trad 30m
Micro Adventure Mixed 22m, 1
** The Buckets of Jism Sport 20m
21 Bird Of Prey Mixed 25m, 3
Frozen in Time Mixed 25m, 1
22 ** Swooping Pterodactyls Mixed 75m 3, 11
** Swooping Pterodactyls 1st pitch Trad 25m
23 Birds of a Feather Trad 30m
Loaded Bowel Mixed 25m, 2
23 M1 Birdbrain Aid 100m
24 Global Arse-Kicker Trad 20m
Swallow Hard Trad 45m
25 Gambler Trad 17m
Legendary Strongman Mixed 25m, 1
26 ** But Holland is a Country Trad 20m