A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Jason Morton Oliver Story Brendan Coulter Cameron Roy Brendan Heywood Rob Baker o_g gaetan Gee Rad Chris
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Flying Buttress 28 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Flying Buttress 28 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -31.613422, 138.618207
description
First butress right of top camp. Can't miss it.
access issues
UPDATED 8 DECEMBER 2021
Upgrades to the visitor facilities are currently being undertaken by the Department for Environment and Water (DEW).
The Climbing Club of South Australia (CCSA) understand that there are not currently any access restrictions, however if any issues are noted, please message Mieka Webb (0419 183 004) or Rob Baker (0439 893 486).
approach
For Vortex and surrounds, scramble up the gully to the left, picking the easiest way up. Flying Buttress itself is the obvious crack line straight over the approach track. Ultion is the corner on the right side of the buttress
descent notes
From the top of the buttress, there’s one more pitch to escape. Scramble along the boulders at the top of the buttress and pick the nicest escape pitch.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Rolling Stone | 12 | 85m | |||||
2 | Global Arse-Kicker | 24 | 20m | |||||
3 |
★★ Vortex
Obvious steep line on the left side of the buttress above descent gully. Rap chains at the top of the first pitch. 60m rope will get you back easily. | 17 | 45m, 2 | |||||
4 |
★★ The Buckets of Jism
Bolted route up the face right of Vortex. Shares the first couple of moves, bring a couple pieces of gear for the start and the top. Shares anchors with vortex | 19 | 20m, 4 | |||||
5 |
★★★ But Holland is a Country
Hard traverse right to the bolts | 26 | 20m | |||||
6 |
Bird Of Prey
The wall perpendicular to the But Holland face on Flying Buttress. Start on ledge next to the tree. Start up the initial crack and then head straight up the wall past 3 bolts to finish at the Vortex belay. FA: Rob Baker & Vaughan Thomas, 2001 | 21 | 25m, 3 | |||||
7 |
★★ Loaded Bowel
The left line on the buttress left of the Flying Buttress. Start about 15 left of Flying Buttress. Up past 2 bolts then right to break (2 camalot) and through roof and corner to finish up slab.6 bolts and rap chains (40m to ground). FFA: Rob Baker & Steve Pollard, 2002 FA: Rob Baker & Steve Pollard, 2002 | 23 | 25m, 2 | |||||
8 |
★★ Legendary Strongman
Crack through roof right of Loaded Bowel, with one bolt. FFA: Stuart Wythe & HB, 2003 | 25 | 25m, 1 | |||||
9 | Mighty Maggot | 5 | 20m | |||||
10 | Mousestopper | 15 | 110m | |||||
11 | Swallow Hard | 24 | 45m | |||||
12 | Birds of a Feather | 23 | 30m | |||||
13 |
★ Gambler
The face buttress left of Flying Buttress. Scramble up to crack 2m left of Flying buttress. Bouldery start up crack to ledge. Then climb through small roof and up onto face and crack. Skirt around base of the pillar to large ledge below But Holland is a Country wall. DBB/Rap chains (40m to ground). FFA: Rob Baker & Vaughan Thomas October, 2002 | 17 | 17m | |||||
14 | ★★★ Flying Buttress | 15 | 110m, 3 | |||||
15 |
★★★ Flying Buttress Direct Finish
FFA: Henry Barber, 1975 | 17 | 110m | |||||
16 |
★ Frozen in Time
From ledge as for P2 of birdman. Up slab left of "birdbrain's" corner to overlap , traverse right (bolt) up small corner to a belay on ledge . Escape to chains on arête. FFA: David Bowen & John Marshall, 2002 | 21 | 25m, 1 | |||||
17 |
★★ Swooping Pterodactyls
Start's right of "birdbrain's" corner. (1) straight up passing 4 bolts through bulges to a stance under roof , left through roof crack and up to dbb (chains).(2) 30m 20 ,through roof past 2 bolt's then head for big ramp past 3 more bolts ,belay at top of ramp on bollard. (3) 20m 20 Up steep scoops past 2 bolts, onto ledge up ramp and headwall various sling threads, DBB on ledge. (50m rap to chains on pitch 1 possible) FFA: 2001 FA: David Bowen & John Marshall, 2002 | 22 | 75m, 3, 11 | |||||
18 |
★★ Swooping Pterodactyls 1st pitch
FA: David Bowen & John Marshall Alt | 22 | 25m | |||||
19 | Birdbrain | 23 M1 | 100m | |||||
20 | These Eagles | 17 | 60m | |||||
21 |
Caught Short
The crack and face between These Eagles and Icarus. (1) 17 40m Start as for These Eagles and Icarus and once over initial roof had straight up to scoopy crack and horizontals to spacious ledge. (2) 15 20m Move up and right around right end of roof and straight up the wall above to top. Scramble off. FFA: Rob Baker & Dave Ceber, 2003 | 17 | 60m, 2 | |||||
22 |
★★★ Icarus
Obvious crack line just left of the corner. Finishes at the top of Flying Buttress, so you’ll then need to do the escape pitch.
| 19 | 60m, 2 | |||||
23 |
Waxen Wings
A variant second pitch to Icarus. Climb the crack between Icarus and Ultion till it expires, straight up through bulge and up to airy moves through roof at shallow corner, straight up wall to ledge. FFA: Dave Bowen & John Marshall, 2003 | 16 | 25m | |||||
24 | Icarus Variant start | 19 | 30m | |||||
25 |
★★ Ultion
Up the corner to the right of Icarus. Recommend Taking #10 & #11 hexes or some large cams. (1) 35m 13 Climb up the main corner, and right hand crack. Belay from inside the large cave. (2) 25m 13 Follow the crack and the corner. Can top out and come down main descent gully or stop at the "Hold Tight" chains on the right just before exiting the corner. 59m abseil. FA: John Austin & Dave MacNamara, 1968 | 12 | 60m, 2 | |||||
26 | Cut Lunch | 12 | 35m | |||||
27 |
Micro Adventure
A nice wall of solid grampians like rock. Start 15 m right of Ultion, up on a ledge just right of Cut Lunch. (the tree in the latter's description has since fallen over and died.) climb the groove as for Ciao Professore and step left onto the face and up right. Move back left to a small ledge at horizontal break. Up left side of face past a bolt, then back right to climb chimney/pillar FFA: Mike Broadbent & Tony Barker, 2001 | 19 | 22m, 1 | |||||
28 |
Ciao Professore
Start 15m right of Ultion. Up groove to base of wall and right onto detached flake. Up to incipient groove crack which leads to the ramp below the triangular roof. Up crack to left for 5m , then traverse right to small roof. Step up right to arete. FFA: Mike Broadbent & Tony Barker, 2001 | 17 | 25m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5 | Mighty Maggot | 20m | |||
12 | Cut Lunch | 35m | |||
Rolling Stone | 85m | ||||
★★ | Ultion | 60m, 2 | |||
15 | ★★★ | Flying Buttress | 110m, 3 | ||
Mousestopper | 110m | ||||
16 | Waxen Wings | 25m | |||
17 | Caught Short | 60m, 2 | |||
Ciao Professore | 25m | ||||
★★★ | Flying Buttress Direct Finish | 110m | |||
★ | Gambler | 17m | |||
These Eagles | 60m | ||||
★★ | Vortex | 45m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★★ | Icarus | 60m, 2 | ||
Icarus Variant start | 30m | ||||
Micro Adventure | 22m, 1 | ||||
★★ | The Buckets of Jism | 20m, 4 | |||
21 | Bird Of Prey | 25m, 3 | |||
★ | Frozen in Time | 25m, 1 | |||
22 | ★★ | Swooping Pterodactyls | 75m, 3, 11 | ||
★★ | Swooping Pterodactyls 1st pitch | 25m | |||
23 | Birds of a Feather | 30m | |||
★★ | Loaded Bowel | 25m, 2 | |||
23 M1 | Birdbrain | 100m | |||
24 | Global Arse-Kicker | 20m | |||
Swallow Hard | 45m | ||||
25 | ★★ | Legendary Strongman | 25m, 1 | ||
26 | ★★★ | But Holland is a Country | 20m |