Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Access issues inherited from Moonarie

National Park

Descent Notes

Some routes finish at chains. Otherwise you have a few options. For routes on the left, walk south and down the southern descent gully. For routes on the right, walk right and abseil down the Great Wall (2 pitch abseil.)

Alternatively you can abseil down hangover layback but beware the chains are right on the edge (perhaps you should rope up?) and the next chains are awkwardly placed on an edge also. Top abseil pitch 30m. Bottom pitch 45m.

©

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
27 *** Meditations Sport 10

The incredible diagonal rib on the steep orange Guru Wall.

FA: Steve Pollard

2
27 Two faced Guru Trad 25m
3
25 Fists and Toys Trad 30m
4
19 Hairy Guru Trad 70m
5
23 M0 *** Final Call Aid 27m
6
20 * Victour Trad 100m
7
25 ** Another Excess Trad 30m
8
15 Counterbalance Trad 85m
9
8 Scut Trad 70m 4
10
11
12
15 *** Hangover Layback Trad 90m 3

A Moonarie mega classic, the 3 pitches are all exciting and all very different. Start in corner at left end of overhang at right side of large mossy slab.

  1. Haul past the overhang and then follow the thin crack to the major ledge. Traverse left to belay below the flake.

  2. Swing up the flake to the spacious ledge (rap chains on your left - awkward position, 50m to ground.)

  3. Up crack, then take a deep breath and swing right along the sharp ledge. Heave ho and then follow left trending line to the top.

The rap chains at the top are awkward to access from above (consider roping up.) From here it is a 30m abseil to the large ledge, then 50m to the ground (second abseil is in an awkward position.)

13
18 * Pride of Cucamunga Trad 90m
14
12 La Dolomite Trad 70m
15
19 Sidestep Trad 55m
16
20 Enigma Trad 45m
17
17 Heather Trad 95m
18
19
22 Be Stiff Trad 30m
20
15 *** Moondance Trad 35m

Climb the rib of Attunga to the tree, then follow the obvious line up the middle of the wall. At 35m the crack trends left to chains. Take either double ropes or at least a 70m single for the abseil.

21
17 moon unit Trad 40m

FA: Rob Baker & Seth debolt

22
20 * Vibrator Trad 25m
23
7 ** Attunga Trad 70m
24
8 Saint Lazare Trad 64m
26
14 4001 Bludges Trad 79m
27
22 Back Burner Trad 18m
28
8 Yanama Trad 45m
29
20 Assembly Line Trad 20m
30
15 ** Melodrama Trad 45m 2

This mega crack was done on the very first climbing trip to Moonarie! Some big cams will be handy. Would be worth an extra star if it was further from Yanama. Scramble up to the ledge to start below the Yanama corner.

  1. The wide crack on the right. Lose a grade for every time you touch Yanama. Belay in the cramped cave.

  2. The crack above in a glorious position. At top, rap chains 5m to your right. 50m to ground.

31
19 * You Bet Trad 20m
32
Red Seam Project Mixed Project 30m, 7

The bolted seam R of Melodrama and L of Be There or Be Square, to chains.

34

The guide book for this climb suggest 'for small people only'. by small it means only suitable for anorexic midgets. My partener (who is small) tried leading it and could not get past the squeeze chimney on 2nd pitch. Unless you are built like a 8yo gymnast I suggest you give it a miss

35
23 ** Grope Session Trad 40m

You could make this route more sustained by stepping left at the big horizontal to finish up Metal Storm.

36
37
22 metal storm Trad

If you're not up to doing the crux first pitch of Grope Session, you could use Metal Storm as a grade 17 approach to the good looking grade 19 second pitch of Grope Session.

FA: rob baker

38
21 Tamagotchi Trad 60m