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Table of contents

1. Callitris Corner 39 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 138.620497, -31.611101

Access Issues: inherited from Moonarie

National Park

Descent Notes:©

Some routes finish at chains. Otherwise you have a few options. For routes on the left, walk south and down the southern descent gully. For routes on the right, walk right and abseil down the Great Wall (2 pitch abseil.)

Alternatively you can abseil down hangover layback but beware the chains are right on the edge (perhaps you should rope up?) and the next chains are awkwardly placed on an edge also. Top abseil pitch 30m. Bottom pitch 45m.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Meditations

The incredible diagonal rib on the steep orange Guru Wall.

FA: Steve Pollard

27 Sport 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Two faced Guru 27 Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Fists and Toys 25 Trad 30m
4 Hairy Guru 19 Trad 70m
5 *** Final Call 23 M0 Aid 27m
6 * Victour 20 Trad 100m
7 ** Another Excess 25 Trad 30m
8 Counterbalance 15 Trad 85m
9 Scut 8 Trad 70m 4
10 Small-time Politics 22 Trad 20m
11 Two-faced Hypocrite 16 Trad 20m
12 *** Hangover Layback

A Moonarie mega classic, the 3 pitches are all exciting and all very different. Start in corner at left end of overhang at right side of large mossy slab.

  1. Haul past the overhang and then follow the thin crack to the major ledge. Traverse left to belay below the flake.

  2. Swing up the flake to the spacious ledge (rap chains on your left - awkward position, 50m to ground.)

  3. Up crack, then take a deep breath and swing right along the sharp ledge. Heave ho and then follow left trending line to the top.

The rap chains at the top are awkward to access from above (consider roping up.) From here it is a 30m abseil to the large ledge, then 50m to the ground (second abseil is in an awkward position.)

15 Trad 90m 3
13 * Pride of Cucamunga 18 Trad 90m
14 La Dolomite 12 Trad 70m
15 Sidestep 19 Trad 55m
16 Enigma 20 Trad 45m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 Heather 17 Trad 95m
18 * Too Late to Stop Now 19 Trad 60m
19 Be Stiff 22 Trad 30m
20 *** Moondance

Climb the rib of Attunga to the tree, then follow the obvious line up the middle of the wall. At 35m the crack trends left to chains. Take either double ropes or at least a 70m single for the abseil.

15 Trad 35m
21 moon unit

FA: Rob Baker, Seth debolt

17 Trad 40m
22 * Vibrator 20 Trad 25m
23 ** Attunga 7 Trad 70m
24 Saint Lazare 8 Trad 64m
25 The Second Melancholy 18 Trad 10m
26 4001 Bludges 14 Trad 79m
27 Back Burner 22 Trad 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
28 Yanama 8 Trad 45m
29 Assembly Line 20 Trad 20m
30 ** Melodrama

This mega crack was done on the very first climbing trip to Moonarie! Some big cams will be handy. Would be worth an extra star if it was further from Yanama. Scramble up to the ledge to start below the Yanama corner.

  1. The wide crack on the right. Lose a grade for every time you touch Yanama. Belay in the cramped cave.

  2. The crack above in a glorious position. At top, rap chains 5m to your right. 50m to ground.

15 Trad 45m 2
31 * You Bet 19 Trad 20m
32 Red Seam Project

The bolted seam R of Melodrama and L of Be There or Be Square, to chains.

Mixed Project 30m, 7
33 Be There or Be Square 23 Trad 50m
34 Etchachan's Chimney

The guide book for this climb suggest 'for small people only'. by small it means only suitable for anorexic midgets. My partener (who is small) tried leading it and could not get past the squeeze chimney on 2nd pitch. Unless you are built like a 8yo gymnast I suggest you give it a miss

13 Trad 67m
35 ** Grope Session

You could make this route more sustained by stepping left at the big horizontal to finish up Metal Storm.

23 Trad 40m
36 Thanxamillian Ridge 19 Trad 65m
37 metal storm

If you're not up to doing the crux first pitch of Grope Session, you could use Metal Storm as a grade 17 approach to the good looking grade 19 second pitch of Grope Session.

FA: rob baker

22 Trad
38 Tamagotchi 21 Trad 60m
39 What the Fuck is Tamagotchi? 17 Trad 55m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
7 ** Attunga Trad 70m
8 Saint Lazare Trad 64m
Scut Trad 70m 4
Yanama Trad 45m
12 La Dolomite Trad 70m
13 Etchachan's Chimney Trad 67m
14 4001 Bludges Trad 79m
15 Counterbalance Trad 85m
*** Hangover Layback Trad 90m 3
** Melodrama Trad 45m 2
*** Moondance Trad 35m
16 Two-faced Hypocrite Trad 20m
17 Heather Trad 95m
What the Fuck is Tamagotchi? Trad 55m
moon unit Trad 40m
18 * Pride of Cucamunga Trad 90m
The Second Melancholy Trad 10m
19 Hairy Guru Trad 70m
Sidestep Trad 55m
Thanxamillian Ridge Trad 65m
* Too Late to Stop Now Trad 60m
* You Bet Trad 20m
20 Assembly Line Trad 20m
Enigma Trad 45m
* Vibrator Trad 25m
* Victour Trad 100m
21 Tamagotchi Trad 60m
22 Back Burner Trad 18m
Be Stiff Trad 30m
Small-time Politics Trad 20m
metal storm Trad
23 Be There or Be Square Trad 50m
** Grope Session Trad 40m
23 M0 *** Final Call Aid 27m
25 ** Another Excess Trad 30m
Fists and Toys Trad 30m
27 *** Meditations Sport 10
Two faced Guru Trad 25m
? Red Seam Project Mixed Project 30m, 7