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Description

Home of many of Moonarie's most famous lines.

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Access issues inherited from Moonarie

National Park

Approach

Scramble up a corner below the wall at about grade 12. There is a rope stored beneath the boulder on your right which you can fix for the duration of your trip but please return it under the boulder at the conclusion of your trip. This is to preserve the life of the rope and maintain the wilderness ethic of the area.

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Descent notes

40m abseil from chains in the middle of the wall. New chains were installed in 2015 by the CCSA - they are set back from the edge in a much safer and more convenient position. From the base of the wall it's a 15m abseil back to the ground.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

An exposed outing in a spectacular position. Well protected. Start at the very left end of the wall beneath DOA.

  1. Step left out to the arete and climb this until the large ledge. Stay on the Great Wall side of the arete for maximum value.

  2. The best finish is to continue up the arete on "Buckley's" at grade 17. Alternatively you can nip off leftwards on "Sorcerer's Apprentice" (12).

A great finish to Outside Chance.

From the cave, move slighty R, stretch up to the 2nd horizontal and then move left to the arete proper. At the ledge, clamber into the scoop from its bottom R and exit at its top left.

FA: Rob Baker & James Falconer

Flake between LA and RH

FA: James Falconer & Rob Baker

Hard not to step left at first bolt. Also hard to clip 2nd bolt.

FA: Steve Pollard

FA: Chester/Broadbent, 1979

FA: Duncan Graham

FA: Duncan Graham

FA: James Falconer, Rob Baker & Benny Carrick, 2004

FA: Rob Baker & James (do ron ron) falconer, 2004

Begin at the crack between MC and SYI. Up, L, up, R to finish in the V-chimney.

FA: Paul Badenoch & Mark Witham, 2014

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