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Routes in Moonbi Common

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Showing all 13 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown year
East boulder line

A crack/flake system runs up the overhanging wall on the east side of the eastern boulder at the top of the hill. Scramble down and around from the start of Jinxís Slab or walk around from base of the Common Delights area. Needs brushing and further staples.

Start: At south-east corner, up finger crack (wires) to horizontal crack then launch right to gain top flake and staple. Triple staple belay.

TradProject 15m Moonbi slabs
20 Hard west-facing line

A difficult-looking bottomless flaring crack/off-width runs up between the two boulders on top of the hill. Should go by traversing in on right wall OR bridge off left to gain off-width. Needs staples down low. Staple, wires, tree belay at top. Needs cleaning & brushing.

TradProject 20m Moonbi slabs
1997
Common Stealth

About two-thirds up the hill on the eastern side of access ridge is a classic steep open book corner facing east. Start: Up finger to hand jam crack with good natural pro. Belay off trees and hexes

Set by Kevin Moore, 1997

TradProject 10m Moonbi slabs
Hi-Jinx

Start: 2m left L&H Hard start to clip first Staple of L&H then straight up past 2 more staples. Run out between 1st and 2nd staple.

Set by Kevin Moore & Danial Salem, 1997

TradProject 15m Moonbi slabs
21 Monitor’s Progress

The east side of the southern boulder at the top of the hill should reward the keen brusher. So far only one route exists. From the top of the hill, scramble 10m down the side of the boulder with the rising horizontal crack. Start: An the north-eastern corner, thinly up slab past staple to decent stance from which easier moves get the 2nd clip, over bulge past 2nd staple to easier ground and crack (wires, hexes). Tree and hex belay.

FA: Jinx, 1997

FFA: Jinx & Lisa Rew, 1999

Trad 20m Moonbi slabs
17/18 Goanna Groove

Start: 10m left of Common Delights a ramp runs into the slab at 5m. Balancey on ramp with good gear, bomber #4-6 Rock at RH end, up slab past 2 staples to ledge and easily to top. Belay of small fig, wires, SLCDs.

FA: Jinx & Lisa Rew, 1997

FFA: Jinx & Lisa Rew, 1999

Trad 15m Moonbi slabs
10 A Might Trite

After crossing bridge, go east (right) and up the first gully passing the archery target. Start: The first line (facing east) on the western side of the access gully. Short crackline (wires) and easier finish to the right, the thin crack left looks good but needs brushing. Friends and hexes belay

FA: . Kevin Moore, 1997

Trad 7m Moonbi slabs
7 Jinx’s Line

On western side of access ridge about halfway to top of hill. Start: Below tiny overhang at 3m. Take the easiest line to the left watching for loose rock. A more technical version would be straight up the line through the overhang. (Crack above overhang looks like good gear but needs cleaning). Tree belay.

FA: Jinx & Kevin Moore, 1997

Trad 15m Moonbi slabs
20 Common Delights

At the top of the hill on the Northwest face of the main boulders a flake near a pine tree runs up to a short chimney affair at 8m. Mostly 14 apart from hard finish. Start: Bouldery start then nice moves up flake (2 staples) to ledge and good stance below short open chimney, up to ledge then steep wall on right with staple (20) OR up easy wall on left past fixed bracket. Belay in cracks taking care with goannas

FA: Kevin Moore & Jinx, 1997

FFA: Lisa Rew, 1999

Trad 15m Moonbi slabs
1999
Leo & Hamish

Start: 6m left CD. Takes the easiest line up the slab trending right to ramp past 3 Staples. Up thin crack on the block and BB of CD

FA: Leo & Hamish, 1999

Trad 15m Moonbi slabs
20 Common Delights

At the top of the hill on the Northwest face of the main boulders a flake near a pine tree runs up to a short chimney affair at 8m. Mostly 14 apart from hard finish. Start: Bouldery start then nice moves up flake (2 staples) to ledge and good stance below short open chimney, up to ledge then steep wall on right with staple (20) OR up easy wall on left past fixed bracket. Belay in cracks taking care with goannas

FA: Kevin Moore & Jinx, 1997

FFA: Lisa Rew, 1999

Trad 15m Moonbi slabs
17/18 Goanna Groove

Start: 10m left of Common Delights a ramp runs into the slab at 5m. Balancey on ramp with good gear, bomber #4-6 Rock at RH end, up slab past 2 staples to ledge and easily to top. Belay of small fig, wires, SLCDs.

FA: Jinx & Lisa Rew, 1997

FFA: Jinx & Lisa Rew, 1999

Trad 15m Moonbi slabs
21 Monitor’s Progress

The east side of the southern boulder at the top of the hill should reward the keen brusher. So far only one route exists. From the top of the hill, scramble 10m down the side of the boulder with the rising horizontal crack. Start: An the north-eastern corner, thinly up slab past staple to decent stance from which easier moves get the 2nd clip, over bulge past 2nd staple to easier ground and crack (wires, hexes). Tree and hex belay.

FA: Jinx, 1997

FFA: Jinx & Lisa Rew, 1999

Trad 20m Moonbi slabs

Showing all 13 routes.