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Moonbi slabs Guide

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Table of contents

1. Moonbi slabs 123 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Bouldering, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Long/Lat: 151.082354, -30.968723

Description

The Moonbi area (Anteater Buttress and environs) presents many granitic cliff lines, mainly slabby in nature and much of which has now been explored. In the early years most of the interest concentrated on Anteater Buttress and the boulders above due to easy access and obvious quality. The slab routes are some of the best in New England and there have been no hang-ups with anti-bolting ethics here so most of the routes are well protected.

Access Issues

The town of Moonbi is located about 20km North of Tamworth on the New England Highway, in the heart of chicken country. The access arrangements have changed in recent years and general access is now not allowed. If you want to climb here you must go with Kevin Moore from Tamworth or with the UNEMC from Armidale. In addition you will be required to fill out a special indemnity form, requested by the landowner's insurers available only from Moore and Stephens. Failure to adhere to this procedure will see a total lockout.

History

The first routes were done in April 1975 by various Armidale climbers. The notable routes from these early visits were the classic 'Snakeskin Flake' 13 by Bob Killip and Phil Prior, the desperate jam crack 'Savage' 19 (now 23 due to a falling block) by Bob Killip and Max Smart, and the bold 'Slabba-Dabba-Do' 17,which was the first slab route to be done,by Robert Stazewski and Bob Killip. The last route was particularly impressive since it was done on sight (ie no brushing or bolting !) and it took many years before it had its second lead. Another route of interest was the popular 'Sorrow' 14 by Phil Prior. A total of eight new routes were put up that year.

Only two new climbs were completed in 1976, 'Laurel And Hardy' 15, above the slabs, by Brian Birchall and, on the Splitters Gully Road Slabs the multi-pitch 'Babylon' 12 by Laimonis Kavelieris, the only climb there to date.

The area continued to see visitors from time to time mainly to repeat 'Snakeskin Flake'. Early 1982 saw the first climbs at Goal Creek Slabs. Ed Sharpe led 'Trundle' 11 and Al Stephens did 'Protection Racket' 14 and 'Up For Grabs' 18. During the same year Kevin Moore completed the first route up high on the ridge at The Brothers, 'Can't Remember Her Name' 12.

However it wasn't until Mark Colyvan and Brian Birchall returned to the area to do the second ascent of 'Slabba-Dabba-Do' in early 1983 that the potential of the slabs was realised. Colyvan bolted and brushed an obvious black slab which he climbed a few months later with Paul Bayne and Paul Colyvan (Animal) to give 'New Romantic' 21 which was an instant classic. This route was Paul's introduction to slab climbing, a style which he grew to love and master very quickly. During the same year Ed Sharpe returned to Goal Creek Slabs to do the powerful 'Scare Tactics' 19. Later in the year, back at the Anteater slabs Al Stephens got into the act by doing 'On the Slack' 18, another route sporting bolts,and Paul Colyvan did 'Slap And Tickle' 17. Paul also did 'Green Spastic Chook' 11, on the boulders above the slabs.

When Paul Colyvan moved to Tamworth the next year, 1884, he did the bold slab left of 'New Romantic' called 'Fashion Conscious' 22 which was the first slab done in the new high friction boots; Fires.

Things were fairly quiet here until August,1986 when the Colyvan brothers returned for a long weekend and camped in a Kootingal motel so that they could eat Chocolate Bavarians and watch the footy at night. They spent most of the three days at the crag brushing and bolting. However they ended up with three great slab routes; 'Slow Fade' 22 by Mark,'Cock and Pullet' 17 by Paul, and 'Head Over Heels' 19 also by Paul!. Later in the year Al Stephens put in two half days bolting to produce yet another good slab in 'Buck Buck Bacaw' 21.

1987 produced only two new routes, 'Bantam' 17 by Larry Dixon, and 'Finger Lickin Chicken' by Stephens, both on the boulders above the slabs.

1988 was another quiet year with two shady climbs on the boulders above the slabs, 'Shady Bridge' by Gary Phillips and 'Shady Tactics' by Kevin Moore. Later that year Kevin Moore with Bob Murison began exploration of the Kootingal Tip. They found 'Scanties on the Chockstone' 14, by Bob, and Petticoat Corner' 14 by Kevin.

The next two years were boom years for Moonbi. During 1989 21 new climbs were recorded. Seven were completed at the Lookout Crag (now totally closed), the best being the classics 'Confidence Limits' 16 and 'Interative Process' 17 both by Kevin Moore. Eight new routes were conceived on the boulders below the slabs. The best being Larry Dixon's 'Faith No More' 21 and the classic 'Beak Job' 19, and Mark Colyvan's 'The Fosbury Flop' 21. A quick weekend visit by the infamous crag developer Andrew Penny with Carl-Joan Jagusch resulted in two new routes, the best being the very popular 'Henny Penny' 18 by Penny. Later that year Mark Colyvan with Jo Monaghan slogged their way up to the slabs on the Left side of Moonbi Gap and completed the very long, but easy access route 'Walking Back To Happiness' 4, as well as 'Promise' 16, a two pitch slab.

New route fever continued into 1990. Twenty-two new routes! John Wilde put up the last route on the slabs to date,the very bold 'Head Over Heels-Direct Finish' 24. Attention then moved to the Lookout crag. Eight new routes were completed, mostly by Newcastle climbers. The best being 'Sebastian's' Maximum Likelihood' 25 by Paul Reviere, 'Zoro Direct' 21 by George Fieg, 'Call Me Al' 24 by John Wilde and 'The Great Leap Forward' 19 by Al Stephens. During one of his visits, Newcastle climber John Wilde accidentally stole Paul Colyvan's bolt prepared route at The Fosbury Flop Boulder, 'Death Warrant' 23. Around the same time Kevin Moore completed 'Pluckin' Feathers' 21 on the boulders above the slabs. The other area of huge development was the boulders below the slabs. Seven new climbs were put up, the best being 'The Caponiser' 17 by Kevin Moore, 'Cock-A-Hoop' 22 and 'Kentucky Fried Rodent' 21 by Gavin Dean, all at Pecker Wall. Later that year interest turned to the two new areas up on the ridge. Kevin Moore led a tramline of climbers up the classic 'Boys Day Out' 15 at The Brothers, then moved on to The Minefield to do 'Hybrid Vigour' 20. With him was John Wilde who, at the same crag, completed the very technical 'Dambuster' 24.

In 1991 everyone calmed down. Kevin's son Anthony Moore led 'Play School' 7, his first lead. Al Stephens made the long trek to Moonbi Gap-Left Side to complete 'Perfect Skin' 15. Then during December when it was too hot to do any long lines, Kevin Moore ticked of three more at Kootingal Tip, 'No Refuse'15, Wasted Time' 9 and 'Laughing Litter' 10.

In 1992 Al Stephens finally cracked his long term project at Pecker Wall, 'Chicken Vindaloo' 25. Kevin Moore, Dave Worthington and Jim Morgan found another five climbs at Kootingal Tip, the best being Kevin's 'Scalpel' 19 and Jim's 'Dynamic Lifter' 21.

The Kootingal Tip produced one more climb in April 1993,'XPT' 20 by Kevin Moore. In October the same year Stuart Whitten launched a small expedition to Moonbi Gap-Right Side (the North side) and completed 'Up The Garden Path' 5, 'Sly Street' 12 and 'Shoulder Boulder' 16.

If you want to do new climbs, there's always lines between the lines. But if you don't, there are masses of great climbs to repeat. Anyone want to go to Moonbi next weekend ? Al Stephens........September 199

1.1. Anteater Buttress 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Long/Lat: 151.076613, -30.996171

Description

This is the obvious large slabby buttress seen up high as you drive in and was the original Moonbi crag. Descent is made via the gully at the far right of the cliff or by a 50m abseil from the chain atop of 'New Romantic' to the blocks between 'New Romantic' and ',Slabba-Dabba-Do' i.e. when abseiling take a slightly diagonal line to your right.

The routes are described from left to right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bubble Gum

Start: The flake crack high up in the gully at the left-hand end of the south side of Anteater Face. A good warm-up.

Up crack, then delicately across flake, then easily to top.

FA: Rob Dixon & Brian Birchall, 1975

13 Trad 40m
2 Hubba Bubba / Bubble Gum Variant

Start: 1m right of 'Bubble Gum'. An excellent alternative start to Bubble Gum. This is now the way to go.

Layaway and jam up to the overlap crack then continue as for 'Bubble Gum'.

FA: Kevin Moore & Dave Worthington, 1986

16 Trad 40m
3 Slow Fade

A long and sustained first pitch (best to do it in two pitches, belaying off double bolts), Double Ropes essential (make sure they are both a full 50m). Take one bolt bracket, eleven quick draws and a #1 Friend to back up the single bolt belay, and some wires to protect the short easier second pitch.

Start: The first slab on the main slabby face, right at the left-hand corner, a couple metres left of 'Freedom Crack'.

  1. 50m Use a stick to clip the first bolt, then climb (crux) directly up to it. Move up and left delicately to next bolt (a fall before clipping this results in a ground fall), then continue up broken flakes to cleaner friction slabs above and double bolts. Some parties belay here Continue up smooth slab to horizontal break, step up over this to bolt belay.(#1 Friend in break at your feet).

  2. 30m Straight up the final short crack as for 'Snakeskin Flake', then continue up to belay at trees.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1986

22 Trad 80m, 2
4 Freedom Crack

Start: Scramble up through the fig tree to the right of 'Slow Fade' to a stance at the base of a crack about 10m up. A suberb experience for new climbers. Most beginners end up being taken up this on their first visit.

  1. 30m Up the crack past a large pine tree to a sentry box.

  2. 30m Up crack, then traverse left along break and then easily up to top, and tree belay.

FA: R.Dixon & B.Birchall, 1975

9 Trad 60m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Snakeskin Flake

Start: One of the best climbs on the slab. Scramble up to base of a large flake crack a few metres up right from 'Freedom Crack'. A classic. You have to do it.

  1. 10m Up fist-jam crack and fig branches to long ledge.

  2. 30m (crux) Up flake crack (protection difficult to place) to an overlap, then step delicately left into a sentry box.

  3. 30m Up to thin crack and follow this to top. Tree belay.

FA: Bob Killip & Phil Prior, 1975

13 Trad 70m, 3
6 Slap and Tickle

Start: As for 'Snakeskin Flake'.

  1. 40m As for 'Snakeskin Flake' to the top of the flake, then step right over the overlap then up the slab (veering slightly right) to a double bolt belay.

  2. 30m Straight up the slab (no runners) then slightly right to the chains above 'New Romantic'.

FA: Paul Colyvan, Al Stephens & Larry Dixon, 1983

17 Trad 70m, 2
7 Fashion Conscious

Start: The slab between 'Snakeskin Flake' and 'New Romantic'. It needs a direct finish and a bold leader.

  1. 30m Straight up the slab via 4 BRs then traverse left to the double bolt belay of 'Slap And Tickle'

  2. 30m As for 'Slap And Tickle'.

FA: Paul Colyvan, 1994

22 Trad 60m, 2
8 New Romantic-Direct Start

Start: At the slab 2m. left of the original corner crack start. A very scary direct start to the original route. Feeling lucky?

Straight up the black slab passing to the left of the first bolt(but clip it). It joins the original route at the second bolt. Continue as for original route.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Wade Fairly, 1989

22 Trad 30m
9 New Romantic

Start: An excellent friction slab. About 10m. right of 'Snakeskin Flake', scramble up over some large blocks to a ledge below a clean black slab with a corner crack on your right. Take 6 BR's and some Friends for the crack. No protection on last pitch!

  1. 30m (Crux) Up short corner on your right to top of block, then launch out up the slab, going slightly leftwards to start, then straight up past 4 BR's to a small stance and double bolt belay (one above the other).

  2. 30m Continue straight up slab, no protection, to rap chain belay.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Paul Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1983

21 Trad 60m, 2
10 Cock and Pullet

Start: One of the best named climbs at Moonbi. At the crack start of 'Slabba-Dabba-Do'. An excellent climb but the protection is very poor. Don't fall!

  1. 45m Left and up onto slab, then straight up to some wire placements in a small groove at about 10m.,then straight up from here past two fixed hangers, then easier ground to double bolt belay (difficult to find).

  2. 6m Up slightly left to chain belay.

FA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1986

17 Trad 51m, 2
11 Slabba-dabba-do

Start: Below obvious crack line that blanks out about 10m up. There is no protection after the end of the crack. A serious lead.

  1. 10m Up crack to a hanging belay at its top.

  2. 45m Take a line of least resistance up the slab above, which tends to lead you straight up to start with and then up left-wards towards the top, no protection!

FA: Robert Stazewski, 1975

17 Trad 55m, 2
12 Head Over Heels

Start: Originally graded 22 by the first ascent party who actually got off route! About 8m right of 'Slabba-Dabba-Do'. Yet another great route. Quite run out in the lower section and the last part of the second pitch. Don't fall off.

  1. 35m Up slab past 3 fixed hangers to ledge and double bolt belay.

  2. 20m Traverse out right and up past 2 more fixed hangers and a big bucket, then go straight up the line of easier buckets (no protection) to bolt anchors on top.

FA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1986

20 Trad 55m, 2
13 Head Over Heels-Direct Finish

Start: From the belay at the end of the first pitch. A hard and bold variant finish.

Straight up through the headwall above the belay past a BR. to a bolt belay.

FA: John Wilde, 1990

24 Trad 15m
14 Henny Penny

Start: Very popular. Originally done as one pitch with huge rope drag. Most parties now belay approx. halfway, at the start of the steep section.

  1. 25m Straight up to the steep section.

  2. 25m Straight up, then move diagonally right, then straight up to top. Double bolt belay.

FA: Andrew Penny & Carl-Joan Jagusch, 1989

18 Trad 50m, 2
15 Buck Buck Bacaw

Take 6 bolt brackets, a #2 Friend, and about 8 quickdraws. Start: Half-way between 'Head Over Heels' and 'On the Slack'. An easy slab followed by a steeper slabby wall. It's a beauty.

  1. 20m Up easy slab (one bolt runner) to just below headwall, Bolt belay plus number two friend in a pocket.(If in doubt use the 1st bolt on the headwall as well).

  2. 34m (crux) Up the headwall, step left, then straight up following the seam past 4 BR's,and a small chicken head at the start of easier moves. Belay on two bolts.

FA: Al Stephens, Richard Thomas & Larry Dixon, 1986

21 Trad 54m, 2
16 On the Slack

Start: At the righthand end of the Anteater slabs, below the prominent limp phallus (otherwise known as the Anteater'). Popular and well-protected.

Up easy slab, past a shallow crack to dish. Clip first BR from dish, step left then straight up past two more BR's to belay at the crack at the overlap on easier ground. (small to middle sized Friends).

FA: Al Stephens, Ed Sharpe & Paul Colyvan, 1983

18 Trad 35m

1.2. Upper Boulders 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sorrow 14 Unknown 20m
2 Green Spastic Chook 11 Unknown 15m
3 Laurel and Hardy 15 Unknown 25m
4 Little Ripper 13 Unknown 15m
5 Railway Hotel 12 Unknown 13m
6 Savage 19 Unknown 15m
7 Down Syndrome 23 Unknown 20m

1.3. Goal Creek Slabs 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Long/Lat: 151.086527, -30.978748

Description

Access has been denied to The Goal Creek Slabs at the time of writing this guide. It is apparently on private property and the owners refuse to allow climbers to go there. For the sake of history and the possibility that one day the cliff may be open, I've included the routes in this guide. From Anteater Buttress the slabs are clearly visible from the road up on your right. There are many potential new slab routes in this area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Trundle 11 Unknown 18m
2 Protection Racket 14 Unknown 25m
3 Up For Grabs 18 Unknown 15m
4 Scare Tactics 19 Unknown 25m

1.4. Splitters Gully Road Slabs 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Description

Follow the 'Splitters Gully' road (bitumen), off the New England Gully Road for about 4-5 km, there is a large cliff on the right high up on the hill, just West of 'Lighthouse Hill'. Walk up the hill (horrendous) to the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Babylon 12 Unknown 150m

1.5. Moonbi Range 85 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Long/Lat: 151.105274, -30.965511

Unique Features And Strengths

Granite with varying quality.

Description

The Moonbi Range is steeped in history, was a cultural meeting place for the local Kamilaroi tribe and neighbouring tribe, the Aniwan people. Edward Gostwyck Cory and a small party in 1832 became the first settlers to cross the range. It is said that they rested under a large pillar on the first moonbi hill, now named cory's pillar or cory's pillow. Many of the local legendary climbers of the north-west explored the moonbies, and climbed at the now closed moonbi lookout crag.

Access Issues

All the climbs listed here are on public access(crown) land. I will not add climbs on private land if permission is not granted and i ask that others do the same.

Please if you find any aboriginal paintings, i ask that we leave these areas (boulders) alone, out of respect. Some of these are said to be over 500 years old!

Approach

The Moonbi range (1st and 2nd moonbi hill) are located on the New England Highway Between the villages of Moonbi and Bendemeer. North five minutes from the village Moonbi and south ten minutes from Bendemeer. The Moonbi range is 20 minutes North of Tamworth and 50 Minutes drive south from Armidale.

Where To Stay

Caravan grounds at Bendemeer and Moonbi/Kootingal. Both Bendemeer and Kootingal have excellent pubs..

History

Kevin Moore was kind enough to give me a guide to moonbi and surrounds that he and Al Stephens produced. Most of the climbs are on privately owned and closed moonbi lookout crag. But there is mention of a few that are on public land and i will do my best to add and with greatest respect try keep the history documented with these climbs.

1.5.1. Lower Range 0 routes in Area

Unique Features And Strengths

Sharp large crystal granite

Description

Large section of crown land on the lower east side of the moonbies.

Access Issues

Crown land

Approach

Access is from Chapmans road and can be only accessed via the south bound lane of the new england highway.

1.5.1.1. The Pines 0 routes in Area

Description

Boulder field on the west side of the hill, has fare amount highball problems.

1.5.1.2. Dead Dog 0 routes in Area

Description

Area between the highway, safety ramp and the hill.

1.5.1.3. PMU 0 routes in Area

Description

Named after an old 'Pick Me Up' sauce bottle from the 60's found in the gully there. Great summer afternoon shade, but lower in the moonbi's (640m) so higher summer temperature. Can take some time to dry after rain.

Access Issues

All crown

Approach

Park South of the entrance to the saftey ramp on the side of the highway. Cut straight across to the fence, then over through the old small quarry. On the east side there is a fire trail that runs up next to the creek follow that for 100m or so and you will see the boulders appear on the left. More exploring is needed as there is some real gems further up the hill.(possibly private land though)

1.5.1.4. Jeepers Creepers 0 routes in Area

Unique Features And Strengths

To good to ignore

Description

South end of TSR near the end of the safety ramp road. Home to huge boulders and a sweet looking cliff.

Access Issues

Part Crown (TSR) and Part private, all boundary fences are derelict and fallen over. Land owner has leased out house(further north) so it has been a little hard to track them down. But given the state of the fences and lack of stock i think access should be ok.

Approach

Park on the highway (South of safety ramp) or drive to the end of safety ramp road and park AWAY from the arrestor bed.

1.5.2. Cory's Pillar hill 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Long/Lat: 151.104070, -30.976230

Unique Features And Strengths

Granite boulders of varying size and some small walls

Description

The area thought to be where in 1832 Edward Gostwyck Cory made camp.

Approach

The road north and south on the range is divided, but there is a connecting road between the first and second hill. This road is the lookout turn off road.Cory's pillar hill is on the east side of the New England Highway. Its easiest to park on w caragnoo road on the top side of cory's pillar hill. But it is also possible to park on Chapmans road and follow the fire trail and creek up from the south

1.5.2.1. North/west Hill side 3 routes in Area
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.104169, -30.975678

Description

Open sunny dries quickly after rain

1.5.2.1.1. Banjo 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Long/Lat: 151.104262, -30.975712

Description

Small 3m boulder, very close to another surrounded by local pine.

Approach

About ten minute walk in from w caragnoo road. Walk in the TSR gate, follow the TSR fire trail till you see cory's pillow(large leaning boulder on top of the hill), take a sharp right down the hill.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Paterson

Use left side of the boulder and the crack

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 18 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 18 Jul 2015

V1 Boulder 3m
2 p1

Using the crack up the middle

BoulderProject
3 p2

Up the right side

BoulderProject 3m
1.5.2.2. Hill Top 0 routes in Area
1.5.2.3. South Side 0 routes in Area

Description

Step in sections, damp in winter but great cool summer climbing

1.5.3. Solitude boulder 0 routes in Boulder

Description

Half choss boulder, standing alone on the ridge between Cory's Pillar and the Moonbi creek.

Approach

East of Cory's pillar, Cant miss it coming in from the north.

1.5.4. Moonbi Creek 0 routes in Area

Description

Boulders and slabs of varied size along moonbi creek In the back of the TSR.

Access Issues

Crown/TSR

Approach

Use the TSR access NOT the private road if you have a four wheel drive or just park near the arrestor bed near the highway and hike in. Easiest way is to head towards Cory's Piller along the TSR track from the North side then turn left head along past the solitude boulder over the little ridge and you willl head down into the creek.

1.5.5. The Dungeon 0 routes in Area

Description

Sunken between the Old New England Highway and the new one. Where no breeze penetrates, where the rock sharpness sits somewhere between pleasure and pain. Where jack frost's fingers linger long on winter days and water stagnates after rain. There in the filth a small number of boulders wait for naughty fun.

Access Issues

Crown

Approach

Take the lookout road off the New England Highway and a sharp left into the old highway (now a rough track) Park there and head straight down.

1.5.5.1. Nasty 0 routes in Boulder

Description

Feature packed boulder deep in the depths of the dungeon.

1.5.5.2. Torture Table 0 routes in Boulder

Description

Boulder with a detached flake the size of a table hanging from the front.

Approach

South of Nasty

1.5.5.3. Whip Wall 0 routes in Boulder

Description

Slab directly above Nasty

1.5.6. Old New England Highway 29 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Long/Lat: 151.100122, -30.976723

Unique Features And Strengths

One of the funnest bouldering areas on the moonbies!

Description

Granite Boulders with varying size and quality. One thing to look out for is logs near the boulders. I don't mean the wood kind i mean the human kind! The toilets must be ordinary as it seems a lot of public are hiding behind boulders around the top to go.

Access Issues

If you cross a fence then you have probably entered someones place, and a lot of illegal rubbish dumping happens there so be careful!

Approach

Park either at the lookout or the old new england highway, which can be accessed via a small dirt track off moonbi lookout road on your left..

Ethic

In recent times there seems to be some activity there and in respect to everyone's hard work unless its your project or have permission to share please don't. On the flip side if there is no indication that someone is working it/cleaning etc then its fare game.

1.5.6.1. Ficus flake 1 route in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.099975, -30.975910

Description

Boulder above male toilet that has the ficus growing on it.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 project

Sit start

BoulderProject 3m
1.5.6.2. The wedge 1 route in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.100100, -30.975598

Description

Sitting on top of a boulder that can be walked on from the toilet side and right next to a very large boulder.

Approach

Walk past the male toilet towards the huge boulder can't be missed.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Just hangin'

Sit down start under the face, layback up the arete and mantle.

FA: Isaac Searant

Set by Isaac Searant, 2016

V2 Boulder 2m
1.5.6.3. Vintage Graffiti 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.099583, -30.975368

Description

Long boulder west of Head of the worm has some very old hand painted writing on it.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Boggy

western side avoid the easy flake to stand on and use the small edges

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 26 Sep 2016

V0- Boulder 4m
2 Pro BoulderProject 4m
1.5.6.4. Head of the worm 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.099765, -30.975424

Description

heavy featured face of a long boulder under the toilet block at the lookout

Approach

head up hill from The Cosmic Egg or down from the toilet block

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Microbial

This will get better after a clean, up using the flake and the crack

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 26 Oct 2016

V0 Boulder 3m
2 Crap fields

This screaming for a sit start and a clean, but for now stand 1m left of Microbial

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 26 Oct 2016

V0+ Boulder 3m
3 Open project

Sit start harder than it looks

BoulderProject 3m
1.5.6.5. Arrow head 6 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.099851, -30.974898

Description

Average sized boulder standing alone, about 30m east from the small car park area

Approach

Park in the small off road area on the way up to the lookout, or park at the lookout itself and walk down.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Get to the point

Start on side pull and arete. Plenty of good footers, but very mossy. mantle on the point.

Set by Isaac Searant, 2016

FA: Isaac Searant, 2016

V1 Boulder 4m
2 Lookout Loonies

Mantle onto the ledge, then mantle to top out.

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Isaac Searant, 2017

FA: Isaac Searant, 2017

V0 Boulder 3m
3 Lookout Loonies traverse

Same mantle start as Lookout loonies, then traverse across and top out on the end.

Set by Isaac Searant & Deon Heemskerk, 2017

FA: Isaac Searant, 2017

V0+ Boulder 4m
4 Living on the edge

Start matched on good edge, low crystal and high left foot. Pull up to slopers, and slap your way around the edge and mantle.

Set by Isaac Searant & Deon Heemskerk, 2017

FA: Isaac Searant, 2017

V1 Boulder 3m
5 Project 1

Open

BoulderProject 4m
6 Project 2

Open

BoulderProject 4m
1.5.6.6. The cosmic egg 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.100325, -30.975147

Description

Large boulder directly up hill from the moonbi gate 20m, looks like a egg cut into three pieces.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The cosmic traverse

Start at the left very mossy end, launch onto mantle. move right till the corner and top out.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

V0 Boulder 4m
2 Campese

Sit start

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

V0 Boulder 3m
3 Monkey magic

Sit start, then use either side for hands, plenty of options for feet. The top out is hanging from the tip.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

VB Boulder 4m
1.5.6.7. Monkey's cloud 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.101013, -30.975125

Description

The boulder next to the moonbi gate.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 two finger cloud summon

Up onto the mantle then up via the slippery mossy slab

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

V1 Boulder 4m
2 p BoulderProject 4m
1.5.6.8. The Moonbi gate 7 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.101080, -30.975172

Description

Long boulder just off the old highway

Approach

From the old highway parking spot head south on the road/ track till you find the gap in the old fence, head straight up the bank.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crumble bum

Flat wall side of the boulder, to the top hill side has obvious features but is very crumbly.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 7 Jul 2014

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 7 Jul 2014

V0 Boulder 5m
2 Sailor Moonbie

Stand start matched on the good sloper. Move up, pinch, high foot and layback. Mantle on the mossy jugs. Great climb.

FA: James vilimaa

Set by Isaac Searant, 2016

V3 Boulder 4m
3 Barbed wire V1 Boulder 4m
4 Ka-Prow / Compression Syndrome

Compression problem left of Barbed Wire

V3 Boulder 4m
5 p2

Up the end of the boulder from highway side, traverse along, top out half way.

BoulderProject 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 The Thing

Sit down start on undercling and pinch, move left on crumbly features and mantle

Set by Isaac Searant, 2016

FA: Isaac Searant, 2016

V1 Boulder 3m
7 Open Project

Same start as "The Thing", move right on the undercling, up on sharp jugs and a tricky mantle. V2ish

Set by Isaac Searant, 2016

BoulderProject 3m
1.5.6.9. Top of the S 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.100162, -30.979400

Description

Open project! Blasted rock face on the side of the old new england highway. This wall is located at the top of the dreaded "S- Bend" of the second road (1872-1939). Thankfully this part of the road has been decommissioned years ago and we can climb here with great landings.

Approach

Best is to park on the entrance spot/track down the old new england highway. Cross over the first fence that runs diagonally across the old road then walk down the road for 15 minutes till you reach another fence. The fence here has new barbed wire and a wire gate, I assume its public land still been the old road. Pass over that fence and 30m you will see the distinct bend in the road.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Highway Robbery

On the north end of the wall under the dihedral, has the best holds on the whole wall.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 24 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 24 Nov 2015

V0 Boulder 2m
2 p1

Just right and north of Highway Robbery

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 24 Nov 2015

BoulderProject 3m
3 explorers pass

Easy way up mid wall and easy down climb off

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 24 Nov 2015

VB Boulder 3m
4 p2

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 24 Nov 2015

BoulderProject 4m

1.5.7. Quality cluster 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Long/Lat: 151.106749, -30.966606

Unique Features And Strengths

Some of the best quality granite on the moonbies.

Description

Boulder cluster, on the south bound (east) side of the highway.

Access Issues

Part of the TSR, easiest to park on the side of the road, there is a nice big shoulder and jump fence.

1.5.7.1. Dancing On The Ceiling 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Description

Long boulder just to the right in the main cluster.

Approach

From the road you will see two boulders with cracks head slightly right of those.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Oh What A Feeling

Up the side of the south side using undercling and side pull.

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 8 May 2016

V0 Boulder 2m
2 Our Fingers are Peeling

Start at the bottom corner and traverse right along and finish the same as 'Óh What A Feeling'

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 8 May 2016

V0+ Boulder 3m
3 'Dreamy Curls

Into the crack, come chimney.

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 8 May 2016

VB Boulder 3m
4 Funk Attack

Tricky crimpy start, then a nice traverse right. Avoid using the boulder behind till right at the end.

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 8 May 2016

V0+ Boulder 4m

1.5.8. Apple Gully 0 routes in Area

Description

A few lonely boulders up the gully with a huge apply tree near the highway.

Access Issues

TSR

Approach

Only accessible from the south bound lane of the new england highway. Park on the shoulder on the bottom side of the gully.

1.5.9. Upper Range 49 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Long/Lat: 151.113250, -30.947017

Description

Some outstanding boulders of varying size, many are large and require some protection. Quality is good with large crystals, common to the rock on the moonbies.

Access Issues

Access is tricky, there is no stopping at all on the north bound lane except at the top. The south bound has a pull off area where its safe to park.

History

Only two climbs are known to be documented in this area, as mentioned in A rock climbers guide to moonbi and environs by Kevin Moore and Al Stephens. Dr Jim Morgan added "Fast Rack" and "Centre line" in 1997.

1.5.9.1. South western Cluster 11 routes in Area
Summary:
All Bouldering

Long/Lat: 151.106353, -30.945888

Description

Most of the boulders in the Upper Moonbi range are highballs, having said that the more accessible smaller ones seem to be in the Southern Cluster.

Access Issues

Its best if you park off the South bound lane, cross the road to saftey then hike five minutes up to the cluster.Its a good warm up to

Approach

If your heading North drive all the way to the top of the moonbies and turn around. Its much safer to pull into the parking spot and legal (double lines).

1.5.9.1.1. Exhibitionist 0 routes in Boulder

Description

Just south of the safety ramp close to the highway. A boulder that looks like many things, with a good landing.

Approach

same approach as Diesel and Dust but closer to the road.

1.5.9.1.2. Diesel and Dust 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.108183, -30.945146

Description

Exceptionally featured boulder on the edge of the safety ramp. Semi protected from rain, possible wet weather boulder.

Approach

Cross the road from south bound lane parking spot, follow rough track to the top of the safety ramp. Boulder is located top side of safety ramp.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fumes traverse

Right to left traverse using the horizontal crack

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Tiarni Heemskerk, 11 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 11 Jul 2015

V0 Boulder 3m
2 p1 BoulderProject
3 p2 BoulderProject
4 p3 BoulderProject
1.5.9.1.3. Chunks 0 routes in Boulder

Description

Very large boulder cluster almost at the top of the hill to the west.

Approach

Straight up

1.5.9.1.4. Small Chunks 0 routes in Boulder

Description

Small boulder over the back of Chunks

Approach

south west from Chunks

1.5.9.1.5. Tiramisu 0 routes in Boulder

Description

A stack of boulders, north west of Chunks.

1.5.9.1.6. Shortbread 0 routes in Boulder

Description

Two boulders up hill from Tiramisu, the smaller of the two has alot of fun features.

1.5.9.1.7. Axe 0 routes in Boulder

Description

Top of the hill behind small chunks, its large.

1.5.9.1.8. Behemoth 1 route in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.106356, -30.946386

Description

Two boulders south side of the hill up off the creek, if you manage to miss them book in with the optometrist.

Approach

Easy to follow the creek on the south side of the hill and then up, heading up the hill first is horrendous.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 open project

obvious crack on the west side. Would need protection, or a mountain of pads, landing area is uneven but ok.

BoulderProject
1.5.9.1.9. Echo Chamber 6 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Description

Boulder Cave! For granite this cave has a lot of features. A couple of easy problems but many challenging ones. Great for a dry climb after wet weather.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 pro1

open

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Isaac Searant, 12 Dec 2016

BoulderProject 4m
2 pro 2

open

Boulder 4m
3 Dry Traverse

Start just left of the Fracture work left using the high slopey jugs and then to crimpers and back down. feet are the little edges .5 to 1m off the deck.

FA: Deon Heemskerk

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Isaac Searant, 12 Dec 2016

V0- Boulder 2m
4 Fracture

The way off on the hill side wall, also good for scouting holds on other climbs. Really needs a clean, from fine dust. Can be very slippery. Walk up the flake or hang from it.

VB Boulder 3m
5 pro3 BoulderProject 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 pro4 BoulderProject
1.5.9.2. North Western Hill 2 routes in Area
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Long/Lat: 151.107918, -30.941844

Description

The north western part of the second Moonbie. Home to some very large boulders..

History

Only two climbs known to date, done on the north end of the Upper Moonbie butress. Dr Jim Morgan climbed in 1997 climbed 'Fastrack' and 'Centre Line'

1.5.9.2.1. Upper Moonbies Buttress 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.109882, -30.941667

Description

A series of large stacked boulders, running parallel to the highway. With a large flake in front of the main section and cave.

Approach

From the top park in the pull off section, follow the fire trail down, stay left till you reach the top of the first safety ramp. There will be a bit of dumped tar and a faint trail that heads south from there. Follow that for thirty odd metres and the northern boulder will become visible.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fast Track

An obvious crack runs up the west side of the first boulder. Harder than it looks - pro down low tricky to place. Some technical moves up crack (wires, SLCDs) to a good jug and easier to top. Belay in crack atop boulder. Down climb dead tree leaning against northern side.

FA: Dr Jim Morgan, 1997

17 Trad 8m
2 Centreline

A perfect hand jam up the eastern side of the Fast Rack weakness. A real pearl - if only it were 50m.

FA: Dr Jim Morgan, 1997

17 Trad 6m
1.5.9.3. The Rubble Pit 0 routes in Area

Unique Features And Strengths

Quality granite

Description

Boulders of varied size, Rubble and other boulders from road work, old trees and scrub. Its a bit of a desperate area. There is other areas of easier access but if your Indiana Jones keen, go for it!

Access Issues

Crown land

Approach

there is no shoulder on that part of the highway so access is from the top only on foot and from the bottom (south) with a four wheel drive on the fire trail and then walk across the creek or walk up from the explorers lounge area just down the hill.

1.5.9.4. The Explorers Lounge 6 routes in Area
Summary:
All Bouldering

Long/Lat: 151.110342, -30.943586

Unique Features And Strengths

Good Quality Granite

Description

Small cluster, but fun featured boulders of a good size.

Access Issues

Easy access via the four wheel drive track which will take you within 20m or park your car on the nice sized shoulder just south and follow the track up. Its really only 10-15 minute walk.

1.5.9.4.1. Split personality 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.109993, -30.943836

Description

Small boulder that has a couple of small challenges and doubles as a good warm up.

Approach

From the 4x4 track continue walking parallel to the highway for about 10 to 15 meters.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Root Down

Left of the crack avoid the using the log

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 1 Aug 2016

VB Boulder 2m
2 The Grasshopper Unit

Right of the crack, one foot right on the end use the corner on the left and up

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 1 Aug 2016

V0 Boulder 2m
3 p(open)

start on the right corner up without using the left of boulder.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 1 Aug 2016

BoulderProject 2m
1.5.9.4.2. Beastie 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.110091, -30.943651

Description

Good sized 5-6 m, high featured boulder in the creek just off the highway. Easily recognizable from its stacked boulder formation.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 p

Sit start using the vertical crack then up to the horizontal. Traverse right to the over hang then up onto the upper slab.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 1 Aug 2016

BoulderProject 5m
2 Flute Loop

Side pull with the left and crimp with the right. high step onto slab and establish a hand on the sharp jug above and its over.

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 1 Aug 2016

V0+ Boulder 4m
1.5.9.4.3. Watsons Cordial 1 route in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.110048, -30.943109

Description

Small boulder with a distinct hang over on the north face.

Approach

From Beastie it north twenty meters

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Skills To Pay The Bills

Sit start with your legs facing down hill, use the crimp and undercling to pull up. Establish feet and traverse right, heel hook/come side pull and topout via the sharp jugs.

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 1 Aug 2016

V1 Boulder 2m
1.5.9.5. Where the wild things are 0 routes in Area

Description

The gully east of the explorers lounge, home to good quality but monstrous boulders.

Approach

From the south follow the fire trail and then into the gully or park on the highway shoulder and head straight into the gully and up. heaps of tracks and its fairly open.. you will see them.

1.5.9.6. Back To The Future 0 routes in Area

Unique Features And Strengths

Good quality granite with cracks and unusual features.

Description

Gully with a handful of larger boulders high in the moonbies

Approach

Short but steep hike down the firetrail from the top

1.5.9.7. Slabbicone Valley 0 routes in Area

Description

Area with predominantly large, sharp, slab boulders.

Access Issues

Crown

Approach

The fire trail that comes from the south is the easiest, could be access with a high two wheel drive but the trail is sand and could be prone to wash.

1.5.9.8. Creek camp 8 routes in Area
Summary:
All Bouldering

Long/Lat: 151.115323, -30.954743

Description

Cluster in the creek below The Resort.

Access Issues

Crown

Approach

Same as for The Resort but stay in the creek and pass through two fences after following the fire trail up the fence line of the TSR.

1.5.9.8.1. Uitstekend 0 routes in Boulder

Description

South west of Primo Graniet.

Approach

From the creek it will be the first boulder just through the fence.

1.5.9.8.2. Prima Graniet 5 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.115569, -30.954634

Description

A tight group of large boulders on the creek

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rondhangen

Sit start, traverse right, stand up on the horizontal crack, and top out on either of the boulders. Strong but easy.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 1 Jun 2016

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 17 Jul 2016

V0 Boulder 4m
2 Opknoping links

Sit start if your bored, up right to the top of the crack top out between or on either boulder.

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Seamus Traynor, 17 Jul 2016

V0 Boulder 4m
3 o

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Seamus Traynor, 17 Jul 2016

BoulderProject 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 pro

Set by Seamus Traynor, 17 Jul 2016

BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Clogs

Up the slab on little edges, runs out a little towards the top but have faith in the little crystals. Its all feet.

Set by Trent Sheather, 18 Jul 2016

FA: Trent Sheather, 18 Jul 2016

V0+ Boulder 4m
1.5.9.8.3. Bijl 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.115663, -30.954648

Description

Small boulder tucked just in behind Prima Graniet.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Opwarmen

Right side of the boulder face, side pull with the right and grab that juicy jug with the left. Mantle and its over.. repeat for further warming.

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Seamus Traynor, 17 Jul 2016

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 17 Jul 2016

VB Boulder 2m
2 Zich Voorbereiden

Another warm up in the center of face. Left sloper or crimp then to jug and mantle.

Set by Seamus Traynor, 18 Jul 2016

FA: Seamus Traynor, 18 Jul 2016

VB Boulder 2m
3 project

Sit start to left and traverse right using the crimps on the face. Avoid reaching over the top till your ready to top out.

Set by Trent Sheather, 18 Jul 2016

BoulderProject 2m
1.5.9.8.4. Eitje 0 routes in Boulder

Description

Two boulders with the prominent one been egg shaped next to Primo Graniet, after rain will have water around it.

1.5.9.8.5. Wie is je vader 0 routes in Boulder

Description

Boulder up off the creek on the South side.

Approach

From Primo Graniet head up the creek 15m and you can see it up on the right.

1.5.9.9. Area 51 17 routes in Area
Summary:
All Bouldering

Long/Lat: 151.115805, -30.949539

Unique Features And Strengths

Uniquely Featured Granite

Description

Shrouded in secret. Alians have long known about the quality of climbs, with the first UFO sightings recorded on the Moonbies dating back as far as the 70's. Till recently the location of this area still remained a secret. It was only for a leaked ASIO document from an ex ASIO agent Fargus Grabber that the location has now come to light.

Approach

If you have a four wheel rive you can access the area via some of the fire trails. BUT BE WARNED the trails are prone to wash and can be dangerous.They are constantly changing and be particularly careful after storms they are sandy by nature. By foot it is only about 10-15 minute walk in. Both trails in have to be accessed from the south bound lane of the new england highway.

1.5.9.9.1. Crop Circles 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.115333, -30.948716

Description

A group of boulders east of the end of the for wheel drive track (car park, for lack of a better word). There is three in the circle the top boulder has a piece of granite the size of a fridge hanging dangerously out the side. The smaller of the three is feature packed and closest the the 4x4 track and the other has a tree leaning against it that can be used like a ladder.

Approach

From the 4x4 track walk parallel to the creek and slighlty up hill for about twenty meters.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Anal probe

On the top boulder. Named after the stone precariously place right in the landing spot. Sit start on the right corner, up then traverse left to mantle.

V1 Boulder 3m
2 Better Off

The left trending edge of slopers. On the Boulder opposite Anal probe.

Set by James vilimaa, 31 May 2016

FA: James vilimaa, 31 May 2016

V1 Boulder 4m
3 B

Directly beneath the precarious Boulder. Possibly a v6-7. Sit start on jub then hard crimps and side pulls with high feet. Possible top out on matched slopers.

BoulderProject 3m
4 S

On the small boulder, the face opposing the other boulders, the inner circle if you will.

BoulderProject
1.5.9.9.2. Grey Matter 1 route in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.115054, -30.948445

Description

Brain shaped boulder along the creek on the western side of Area 51 hill.

Approach

Follow the 4x4 track up the side of the creek till its end then on 15-20m on a rough walking track parallel to the creek.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cold blooded

Easy, good warm up maybe even do a few laps.

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 31 May 2016

V0- Boulder 3m
1.5.9.9.3. The Bunker 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.115600, -30.948219

Description

Wide boulder with a detached small boulder next to it along the creek.

Approach

From grey matter head up along the creek for 30m

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The scout

Easy way just to check it all out, leave it mossy makes a climb out of it.

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 28 Aug 2016

VB Boulder 2m
2 Bunker Rat

On the small boulder between the two, avoid the boulder behind you. Sharp and crimpy.

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 28 Aug 2016

V0 Boulder 3m
3 p

Dyno start onto the sharp mantle,your hands will love it!

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 28 Aug 2016

BoulderProject 4m
1.5.9.9.4. Unidentified Cracking Object 0 routes in Cliff

Description

Highly featured buttress just up off the creek. Has one side that the granite seems to be as stable as Mel Gibson, so tread lightly there. The unstable stuff is more golden and crumbly, much like the inside of a violent crumble bar. Really needs roping unless you have epic cajones.

1.5.9.9.5. Enterprise 0 routes in Boulder

Description

Creek side boulder that resembles a crashed Captain Kirk's ship.

Approach

Follow the creek up or straight down/along from Unidentified Cracking object.

1.5.9.9.6. Transporter One 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.115793, -30.948916

Approach

6 or so meters uphill from Unidentified Cracking Object.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abducted

Up the left, keep inside and use a hand jam in the awkward upper crack.

Set by James vilimaa, Deon Heemskerk & Seamus Traynor, 31 May 2016

FA: James vilimaa, 31 May 2016

V4 Boulder 4m
2 Beam Me Up

Start on the left same as Abducted but stay out slightly to avoid using the arkward hand jam and reach over the top to the sharp jug or crack.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, James vilimaa & Seamus Traynor, 31 May 2016

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 31 May 2016

V3 Boulder 4m
1.5.9.9.7. Bouldermort 1 route in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.115707, -30.949328

Description

Large boulder with a distinctive crack in a 90 degree corner

Approach

Directly up hill 20-30 metres from Crop Circles

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bouldermort

Great layback or jam.

V2 Boulder 5m
1.5.9.9.8. The Mother Ship 0 routes in Cliff

Description

Buttress consisting of two very large boulders on the top of the hill. Can be seen from the other side of the valley. Some problems will be highballs and others will require roping. plenty of flakes and crimps to get your grey scaly fingers on.

Approach

From the four wheel drive track head straight up the hill for 30m, you cant miss it...

1.5.9.9.9. Vulcan High Command 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.114711, -30.949823

Description

Large cathedral shaped boulder just south and below The Mother Ship.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sli Fi

Best not to fall. Slabby highball problem with delicate balance moves. Crimps if you can find them.

Set by James vilimaa

FA: James vilimaa, 19 Dec 2016

V3 Boulder 5m
2 Project BoulderProject 5m
3 pro 2 BoulderProject 5m
4 Knowledge Is Power

Start on edge and side pull, move up to the good feature, and establish a heel and palm press. Very little up higher so the top out is committing, so trust the feet and mantle. Great climb.

Set by Isaac Searant & James vilimaa

FA: James vilimaa, 19 Dec 2016

V3 Boulder 4m
1.5.9.9.10. Borg Cube 1 route in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.114536, -30.949813

Description

Cube shaped boulder half way up the hill and slightly south of Vulcan High Command

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cyborg Sphincter

Sit Start pull onto the lower edge. up via some crimpers with a slopey mantle.

Set by Deon Heemskerk

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 19 Dec 2016

V0 Boulder 3m
1.5.9.9.11. Meteorite 1 route in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.116271, -30.949599

Description

Feature packed, fun sized boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Boom! Shake The Room

sit start at bottom of fracture. Left up crack, traverse left using the mantle as hands. Presently very mossy and slippery. Watch for lose blocks! Death spike at the bottom will be removed.

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 21 Dec 2016

V0 Boulder 3m
1.5.9.9.12. The Asteroid Belt 0 routes in Cliff

Description

Buttress of quality granite, made up of large stacked boulders Potential for some quality high ball boulder problems or top roping.

1.5.9.10. Pig Gully 0 routes in Area

Description

Gully between Area 51 and The Resort. Low yielding area and granite is of lower quality and some can be crumbly but tends to have a lot of features. Great if you want a change from crimping, but bring your tape if you want to make a day out of it.

Access Issues

Walk over from Area 51 under the hill or go straight up the gully, can be a bit scrubby. Watch out for wild pigs they love it

1.5.9.11. The Resort 5 routes in Area
Summary:
All Bouldering

Long/Lat: 151.116258, -30.953316

Unique Features And Strengths

High Quality White Granite

Description

Boulders with a view, high in the Moonbi range. Unspoiled (by littering) clean white granite, very little moss and lichen. A special place.

Approach

Take the fire trail to the right towards the TSR, follow the trail that is next to the fence south of the slabby ridge. Leave the slabby ridge to the roos and the goats. Easy to find once you have been there the first time. If you need a guide please contact me (Deon Heemskerk) on here or call into the Pioneer general store Bendemeer and contact me through there. . Even with all the gear hike in should not take any longer than 15-20 minutes from the highway. with a four wheel drive possibly fifteen minutes.

1.5.9.11.1. The Cocktail Bar 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.116294, -30.953292

Description

Located nearly all the way up the south side of the hill. Plenty of features, with the horizontal cracks being the most predominant.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tequila Mockingbird

Easy fun climb up the left side.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, Seamus Traynor & Alicia Cummins, 12 Jun 2016

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 12 Jun 2016

VB Boulder 4m
2 Slippery Nipple

Right of Tequila Mockingbird start on the small crimps up to the mossy mantle, top out slightly right of Tequila. There's a nice jug just got to reach for it.

Set by Seamus Traynor, Deon Heemskerk & Alicia Cummins, 12 Jun 2016

FA: Seamus Traynor, 12 Jun 2016

V0+ Boulder 4m
3 Don't Count Your Chickens / Brain Hemorrhage

Small crimp start to high side pull come crack. Mantle then up slightly left on the upper slab. Look for a grouping of crystals to crimp on. A prior FA high fall resulted in a climber-spotter head clash, fortunately both parties were ok and recovered over a cold bevie that night.

FA: Cooper Walters, 10 Jul 2016

Set by Deon Heemskerk, Seamus Traynor & Alicia Cummins, 13 Jul 2016

V2 Boulder 4m
1.5.9.11.2. The Gym 0 routes in Boulder

Description

Just up the Hill from The Cocktail Bar, The Gym is three large boulders stacked.

1.5.9.11.3. The Beached Whale 0 routes in Boulder

Description

Large whale shaped boulder, loaded with loose flakes and has a smaller detached boulder at the lower side.

1.5.9.11.4. Scalpel 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.115955, -30.953095

Description

Scalpel shaped boulder high on the north west side of the hill, north 15m from The Beached Wale.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Banana Lounge

Very strong crimp crux start, left hand onto a high slopper, another crimp and up

Set by Seamus Traynor, Alicia Cummins & Deon Heemskerk, 12 Jun 2016

FA: Seamus Traynor, 12 Jun 2016

V1 Boulder 3m
2 Palm Tree

To the right of Banana lounge, high foot start, crimpy and strong!

Set by Alicia Cummins, Seamus Traynor & Deon Heemskerk, 12 Jun 2016

FA: Alicia Cummins, 12 Jun 2016

V0+ Boulder 3m

1.6. Moonbi Common 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Long/Lat: 151.053049, -30.999991

Description

taken from 'A Rockclimbers Guide To Moonbi & Environs, 1999 Edition by Kevin Moore and Al Stephens' A big thanks to Kevin for sharing his hard work and allowing us to keep the history of the area intact. All Boulder grades added more recently will have the V rating. All climbs in the guide will retain the original rating system.

About 2km down the Moonbi Common or Splitters Gully Rd (off New England Gully Rd) is Moonbi Common - an area with public access. Shown to Kevin Moore and Toby Hillier by local horseman, Lew Hyson in Nov 1997, the Common initially appears to have only a limited number of short (7-20m) climbs. However, the area has not been explored fully and a systematic approach may uncover hidden delights. Park cars on your right near the tin dunny and cross creek on a corrugated iron bridge. Access to the top of the hill is best by walking west (Left) along the track for about 100m until archery station #4 (check this?), proceed uphill via easiest line. Veering to the right of the fall line gets you to Common Stealth; the left takes you past Jinx’s Line.

*Bridge and dunny no longer there. Total exploration is under way and has uncovered some more gems! There is potential for more trad lines. Outstanding amount of quality unclimbed boulder problems.

Access Issues

Public

Approach

Easiest to park in the bird watchers car park(sign posted) then walk up around the corner to the gate on splitters gully road. Keep the gate closed. Old archery signs are still there. and coming through the gate will bring you in close to the number 4 sign.

Ethic

As for all areas don't leave rubbish and respect others that use this area. Its common for bird watchers and horse riders to be in the area. Also there is some paintings on some of the boulders, please respect by leaving these alone, feel free to look but don't touch. We have been asked to keep the location of these quiet as possible by a local elder. So if you stumble across them, please don't tell others where they are located.

1.6.1. Track Boulders 0 routes in Area

Description

Boulders in the vicinity of the track running parallel to Moonbi Common road.

1.6.1.1. Ramp 0 routes in Boulder

Description

Boulder with elaborate mountain bike ramps on and off on the low side. These seem to be done a while ago but make for an easy stroll off the back the boulder.

Approach

From the gate on splitters gully road find the track running east(down hill) its just off the track to the right, you cant miss it.

History

seems to have been partly cleaned a while ago but no information is known

1.6.2. Western Hill 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.048019, -30.998421

Description

Smaller of the two hills on the Spitters gully side

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Might Trite

After crossing bridge, go east (right) and up the first gully passing the archery target. Start: The first line (facing east) on the western side of the access gully. Short crackline (wires) and easier finish to the right, the thin crack left looks good but needs brushing. Friends and hexes belay

FA: . Kevin Moore, 1997

10 Trad 7m
2 Jinx’s Line

On western side of access ridge about halfway to top of hill. Start: Below tiny overhang at 3m. Take the easiest line to the left watching for loose rock. A more technical version would be straight up the line through the overhang. (Crack above overhang looks like good gear but needs cleaning). Tree belay.

FA: Jinx & Kevin Moore, 1997

7 Trad 15m
3 Common Stealth

About two-thirds up the hill on the eastern side of access ridge is a classic steep open book corner facing east. Start: Up finger to hand jam crack with good natural pro. Belay off trees and hexes

Set by Kevin Moore, 1997

TradProject 10m
4 Common Delights

At the top of the hill on the Northwest face of the main boulders a flake near a pine tree runs up to a short chimney affair at 8m. Mostly 14 apart from hard finish. Start: Bouldery start then nice moves up flake (2 staples) to ledge and good stance below short open chimney, up to ledge then steep wall on right with staple (20) OR up easy wall on left past fixed bracket. Belay in cracks taking care with goannas

FA: Kevin Moore & Jinx, 1997

FFA: Lisa Rew, 1999

20 Trad 15m
5 Leo & Hamish

Start: 6m left CD. Takes the easiest line up the slab trending right to ramp past 3 Staples. Up thin crack on the block and BB of CD

FA: Leo & Hamish, 1999

Trad 15m
6 Hi-Jinx

Start: 2m left L&H Hard start to clip first Staple of L&H then straight up past 2 more staples. Run out between 1st and 2nd staple.

Set by Kevin Moore & Danial Salem, 1997

TradProject 15m
7 Goanna Groove

Start: 10m left of Common Delights a ramp runs into the slab at 5m. Balancey on ramp with good gear, bomber #4-6 Rock at RH end, up slab past 2 staples to ledge and easily to top. Belay of small fig, wires, SLCDs.

FA: Jinx & Lisa Rew, 1997

FFA: Jinx & Lisa Rew, 1999

17/18 Trad 15m
8 Monitor’s Progress

The east side of the southern boulder at the top of the hill should reward the keen brusher. So far only one route exists. From the top of the hill, scramble 10m down the side of the boulder with the rising horizontal crack. Start: An the north-eastern corner, thinly up slab past staple to decent stance from which easier moves get the 2nd clip, over bulge past 2nd staple to easier ground and crack (wires, hexes). Tree and hex belay.

FA: Jinx, 1997

FFA: Jinx & Lisa Rew, 1999

21 Trad 20m
9 Hard west-facing line

A difficult-looking bottomless flaring crack/off-width runs up between the two boulders on top of the hill. Should go by traversing in on right wall OR bridge off left to gain off-width. Needs staples down low. Staple, wires, tree belay at top. Needs cleaning & brushing.

20 TradProject 20m
10 East boulder line

A crack/flake system runs up the overhanging wall on the east side of the eastern boulder at the top of the hill. Scramble down and around from the start of Jinxís Slab or walk around from base of the Common Delights area. Needs brushing and further staples.

Start: At south-east corner, up finger crack (wires) to horizontal crack then launch right to gain top flake and staple. Triple staple belay.

TradProject 15m

1.6.3. Lung Buster Hill 0 routes in Area

Description

The larger and steeper of the two hills, eastern side of the common.

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
7 Jinx’s Line Trad 15m 1.6.2. Western Hill
VB Monkey magic Boulder 4m 1.5.6.6. The cosmic egg
explorers pass Boulder 3m 1.5.6.9. Top of the S
'Dreamy Curls Boulder 3m 1.5.7.1. Dancing On The Ceiling
Fracture Boulder 3m 1.5.9.1.9. Echo Chamber
Root Down Boulder 2m 1.5.9.4.1. Split personality
Opwarmen Boulder 2m 1.5.9.8.3. Bijl
Zich Voorbereiden Boulder 2m 1.5.9.8.3. Bijl
The scout Boulder 2m 1.5.9.9.3. The Bunker
Tequila Mockingbird Boulder 4m 1.5.9.11.1. The Cocktail Bar
9 Freedom Crack Trad 60m, 2 1.1. Anteater Buttress
10 A Might Trite Trad 7m 1.6.2. Western Hill
11 Green Spastic Chook Unknown 15m 1.2. Upper Boulders
Trundle Unknown 18m 1.3. Goal Creek Slabs
12 Railway Hotel Unknown 13m 1.2. Upper Boulders
Babylon Unknown 150m 1.4. Splitters Gully Road Slabs
13 Bubble Gum Trad 40m 1.1. Anteater Buttress
Snakeskin Flake Trad 70m, 3 1.1. Anteater Buttress
Little Ripper Unknown 15m 1.2. Upper Boulders
V0- Boggy Boulder 4m 1.5.6.3. Vintage Graffiti
Dry Traverse Boulder 2m 1.5.9.1.9. Echo Chamber
Cold blooded Boulder 3m 1.5.9.9.2. Grey Matter
14 Sorrow Unknown 20m 1.2. Upper Boulders
Protection Racket Unknown 25m 1.3. Goal Creek Slabs
15 Laurel and Hardy Unknown 25m 1.2. Upper Boulders
V0 Microbial Boulder 3m 1.5.6.4. Head of the worm
Lookout Loonies Boulder 3m 1.5.6.5. Arrow head
Campese Boulder 3m 1.5.6.6. The cosmic egg
The cosmic traverse Boulder 4m 1.5.6.6. The cosmic egg
Crumble bum Boulder 5m 1.5.6.8. The Moonbi gate
Highway Robbery Boulder 2m 1.5.6.9. Top of the S
Oh What A Feeling Boulder 2m 1.5.7.1. Dancing On The Ceiling
Fumes traverse Boulder 3m 1.5.9.1.2. Diesel and Dust
The Grasshopper Unit Boulder 2m 1.5.9.4.1. Split personality
Opknoping links Boulder 4m 1.5.9.8.2. Prima Graniet
Rondhangen Boulder 4m 1.5.9.8.2. Prima Graniet
Bunker Rat Boulder 3m 1.5.9.9.3. The Bunker
Cyborg Sphincter Boulder 3m 1.5.9.9.10. Borg Cube
Boom! Shake The Room Boulder 3m 1.5.9.9.11. Meteorite
16 Hubba Bubba Trad 40m 1.1. Anteater Buttress
17 Cock and Pullet Trad 51m, 2 1.1. Anteater Buttress
Slabba-dabba-do Trad 55m, 2 1.1. Anteater Buttress
Slap and Tickle Trad 70m, 2 1.1. Anteater Buttress
Centreline Trad 6m 1.5.9.2.1. Upper Moonbies Buttress
Fast Track Trad 8m 1.5.9.2.1. Upper Moonbies Buttress
17 to 18 Goanna Groove Trad 15m 1.6.2. Western Hill
V0+ Crap fields Boulder 3m 1.5.6.4. Head of the worm
Lookout Loonies traverse Boulder 4m 1.5.6.5. Arrow head
Funk Attack Boulder 4m 1.5.7.1. Dancing On The Ceiling
Our Fingers are Peeling Boulder 3m 1.5.7.1. Dancing On The Ceiling
Flute Loop Boulder 4m 1.5.9.4.2. Beastie
Clogs Boulder 4m 1.5.9.8.2. Prima Graniet
Slippery Nipple Boulder 4m 1.5.9.11.1. The Cocktail Bar
Palm Tree Boulder 3m 1.5.9.11.4. Scalpel
18 Henny Penny Trad 50m, 2 1.1. Anteater Buttress
On the Slack Trad 35m 1.1. Anteater Buttress
Up For Grabs Unknown 15m 1.3. Goal Creek Slabs
19 Savage Unknown 15m 1.2. Upper Boulders
Scare Tactics Unknown 25m 1.3. Goal Creek Slabs
V1 Paterson Boulder 3m 1.5.2.1.1. Banjo
Get to the point Boulder 4m 1.5.6.5. Arrow head
Living on the edge Boulder 3m 1.5.6.5. Arrow head
two finger cloud summon Boulder 4m 1.5.6.7. Monkey's cloud
Barbed wire Boulder 4m 1.5.6.8. The Moonbi gate
The Thing Boulder 3m 1.5.6.8. The Moonbi gate
Skills To Pay The Bills Boulder 2m 1.5.9.4.3. Watsons Cordial
Anal probe Boulder 3m 1.5.9.9.1. Crop Circles
Better Off Boulder 4m 1.5.9.9.1. Crop Circles
Banana Lounge Boulder 3m 1.5.9.11.4. Scalpel
20 Head Over Heels Trad 55m, 2 1.1. Anteater Buttress
Common Delights Trad 15m 1.6.2. Western Hill
Hard west-facing line TradProject 20m 1.6.2. Western Hill
V2 Just hangin' Boulder 2m 1.5.6.2. The wedge
Bouldermort Boulder 5m 1.5.9.9.7. Bouldermort
Don't Count Your Chickens Boulder 4m 1.5.9.11.1. The Cocktail Bar
21 Buck Buck Bacaw Trad 54m, 2 1.1. Anteater Buttress
New Romantic Trad 60m, 2 1.1. Anteater Buttress
Monitor’s Progress Trad 20m 1.6.2. Western Hill
22 Fashion Conscious Trad 60m, 2 1.1. Anteater Buttress
New Romantic-Direct Start Trad 30m 1.1. Anteater Buttress
Slow Fade Trad 80m, 2 1.1. Anteater Buttress
V3 Ka-Prow Boulder 4m 1.5.6.8. The Moonbi gate
Sailor Moonbie Boulder 4m 1.5.6.8. The Moonbi gate
Beam Me Up Boulder 4m 1.5.9.9.6. Transporter One
Knowledge Is Power Boulder 4m 1.5.9.9.9. Vulcan High Command
Sli Fi Boulder 5m 1.5.9.9.9. Vulcan High Command
23 Down Syndrome Unknown 20m 1.2. Upper Boulders
V4 Abducted Boulder 4m 1.5.9.9.6. Transporter One
24 Head Over Heels-Direct Finish Trad 15m 1.1. Anteater Buttress
? p1 BoulderProject 1.5.2.1.1. Banjo
p2 BoulderProject 3m 1.5.2.1.1. Banjo
project BoulderProject 3m 1.5.6.1. Ficus flake
Pro BoulderProject 4m 1.5.6.3. Vintage Graffiti
Open project BoulderProject 3m 1.5.6.4. Head of the worm
Project 1 BoulderProject 4m 1.5.6.5. Arrow head
Project 2 BoulderProject 4m 1.5.6.5. Arrow head
p BoulderProject 4m 1.5.6.7. Monkey's cloud
Open Project BoulderProject 3m 1.5.6.8. The Moonbi gate
p2 BoulderProject 4m 1.5.6.8. The Moonbi gate
p1 BoulderProject 3m 1.5.6.9. Top of the S
p2 BoulderProject 4m 1.5.6.9. Top of the S
p1 BoulderProject 1.5.9.1.2. Diesel and Dust
p2 BoulderProject 1.5.9.1.2. Diesel and Dust
p3 BoulderProject 1.5.9.1.2. Diesel and Dust
open project BoulderProject 1.5.9.1.8. Behemoth
pro 2 Boulder 4m 1.5.9.1.9. Echo Chamber
pro1 BoulderProject 4m 1.5.9.1.9. Echo Chamber
pro3 BoulderProject 4m 1.5.9.1.9. Echo Chamber
pro4 BoulderProject 1.5.9.1.9. Echo Chamber
p(open) BoulderProject 2m 1.5.9.4.1. Split personality
p BoulderProject 5m 1.5.9.4.2. Beastie
o BoulderProject 4m 1.5.9.8.2. Prima Graniet
pro BoulderProject 1.5.9.8.2. Prima Graniet
project BoulderProject 2m 1.5.9.8.3. Bijl
B BoulderProject 3m 1.5.9.9.1. Crop Circles
S BoulderProject 1.5.9.9.1. Crop Circles
p BoulderProject 4m 1.5.9.9.3. The Bunker
Project BoulderProject 5m 1.5.9.9.9. Vulcan High Command
pro 2 BoulderProject 5m 1.5.9.9.9. Vulcan High Command
Common Stealth TradProject 10m 1.6.2. Western Hill
East boulder line TradProject 15m 1.6.2. Western Hill
Hi-Jinx TradProject 15m 1.6.2. Western Hill
Leo & Hamish Trad 15m 1.6.2. Western Hill