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160 routes in Moonbi slabs Back to index

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 160 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown year
19 Savage
Unknown 15m
Moonbi slabs
V3 Sailor Moonbie

Stand start matched on the good sloper. Move up, pinch, high foot and layback. Mantle on the mossy jugs. Great climb.

FA: James vilimaa

Set by Isaac Searant, 2016

Boulder 4m Moonbi slabs
S

On the small boulder, the face opposing the other boulders, the inner circle if you will.

BoulderProject Moonbi slabs
23 Down Syndrome
Unknown 20m
Moonbi slabs
open project

obvious crack on the west side. Would need protection, or a mountain of pads, landing area is uneven but ok.

BoulderProject Moonbi slabs
p1

Using the crack up the middle

BoulderProject Moonbi slabs
V3 Ka-Prow

Compression problem left of Barbed Wire

Boulder 4m Moonbi slabs
V3 Sli Fi

Best not to fall. Slabby highball problem with delicate balance moves. Crimps if you can find them.

Set by James vilimaa

FA: James vilimaa, 19 Dec 2016

Boulder 5m Moonbi slabs
11 Trundle
Unknown 18m
Moonbi slabs
p2

Up the right side

BoulderProject 3m Moonbi slabs
V2 Just hangin'

Sit down start under the face, layback up the arete and mantle.

FA: Isaac Searant

Set by Isaac Searant, 2016

Boulder 2m Moonbi slabs
14 Protection Racket
Unknown 25m
Moonbi slabs
p1
BoulderProject Moonbi slabs
20 Hard west-facing line

A difficult-looking bottomless flaring crack/off-width runs up between the two boulders on top of the hill. Should go by traversing in on right wall OR bridge off left to gain off-width. Needs staples down low. Staple, wires, tree belay at top. Needs cleaning & brushing.

TradProject 20m Moonbi slabs
V0 Cyborg Sphincter

Sit Start pull onto the lower edge. up via some crimpers with a slopey mantle.

Set by Deon Heemskerk

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 19 Dec 2016

Boulder 3m Moonbi slabs
18 Up For Grabs
Unknown 15m
Moonbi slabs
p2
BoulderProject Moonbi slabs
VB Fracture

The way off on the hill side wall, also good for scouting holds on other climbs. Really needs a clean, from fine dust. Can be very slippery. Walk up the flake or hang from it.

Boulder 3m Moonbi slabs
East boulder line

A crack/flake system runs up the overhanging wall on the east side of the eastern boulder at the top of the hill. Scramble down and around from the start of Jinxís Slab or walk around from base of the Common Delights area. Needs brushing and further staples.

Start: At south-east corner, up finger crack (wires) to horizontal crack then launch right to gain top flake and staple. Triple staple belay.

TradProject 15m Moonbi slabs
Project BoulderProject 5m Moonbi slabs
19 Scare Tactics
Unknown 25m
Moonbi slabs
p3
BoulderProject Moonbi slabs
V1 Barbed wire Boulder 4m Moonbi slabs
V0- Dry Traverse

Start just left of the Fracture work left using the high slopey jugs and then to crimpers and back down. feet are the little edges .5 to 1m off the deck.

FA: Deon Heemskerk

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Isaac Searant, 12 Dec 2016

Boulder 2m Moonbi slabs
14 Sorrow
Unknown 20m
Moonbi slabs
p
BoulderProject 4m Moonbi slabs
12 Babylon
Unknown 150m
Moonbi slabs
Open project

Sit start harder than it looks

BoulderProject 3m Moonbi slabs
V1 Barbed wire Boulder 4m Moonbi slabs
11 Green Spastic Chook
Unknown 15m
Moonbi slabs
V2 Bouldermort

Great layback or jam.

Boulder 5m Moonbi slabs
p2

Up the end of the boulder from highway side, traverse along, top out half way.

BoulderProject 4m Moonbi slabs
V1 Anal probe

On the top boulder. Named after the stone precariously place right in the landing spot. Sit start on the right corner, up then traverse left to mantle.

Boulder 3m Moonbi slabs
15 Laurel and Hardy
Unknown 25m
Moonbi slabs
V2 Bouldermort

Great layback or jam.

Boulder 5m Moonbi slabs
Pro
BoulderProject 4m Moonbi slabs
pro 2 Boulder 4m Moonbi slabs
13 Little Ripper
Unknown 15m
Moonbi slabs
project

Sit start

BoulderProject 3m Moonbi slabs
pro3 BoulderProject 4m Moonbi slabs
12 Railway Hotel
Unknown 13m
Moonbi slabs
V3 Knowledge Is Power

Start on edge and side pull, move up to the good feature, and establish a heel and palm press. Very little up higher so the top out is committing, so trust the feet and mantle. Great climb.

Set by Isaac Searant & James vilimaa

FA: James vilimaa, 19 Dec 2016

Boulder 4m Moonbi slabs
B

Directly beneath the precarious Boulder. Possibly a v6-7. Sit start on jub then hard crimps and side pulls with high feet. Possible top out on matched slopers.

BoulderProject 3m Moonbi slabs
pro4 BoulderProject Moonbi slabs
1975
17 Slabba-dabba-do

Start: Below obvious crack line that blanks out about 10m up. There is no protection after the end of the crack. A serious lead.

  1. 10m Up crack to a hanging belay at its top.

  2. 45m Take a line of least resistance up the slab above, which tends to lead you straight up to start with and then up left-wards towards the top, no protection!

FA: Robert Stazewski, 1975

Trad 55m, 2 Moonbi slabs
13 Bubble Gum

Start: The flake crack high up in the gully at the left-hand end of the south side of Anteater Face. A good warm-up.

Up crack, then delicately across flake, then easily to top.

FA: Rob Dixon & Brian Birchall, 1975

Trad 40m Moonbi slabs
9 Freedom Crack

Start: Scramble up through the fig tree to the right of 'Slow Fade' to a stance at the base of a crack about 10m up. A suberb experience for new climbers. Most beginners end up being taken up this on their first visit.

  1. 30m Up the crack past a large pine tree to a sentry box.

  2. 30m Up crack, then traverse left along break and then easily up to top, and tree belay.

FA: R.Dixon & B.Birchall, 1975

Trad 60m, 2 Moonbi slabs
13 Snakeskin Flake

Start: One of the best climbs on the slab. Scramble up to base of a large flake crack a few metres up right from 'Freedom Crack'. A classic. You have to do it.

  1. 10m Up fist-jam crack and fig branches to long ledge.

  2. 30m (crux) Up flake crack (protection difficult to place) to an overlap, then step delicately left into a sentry box.

  3. 30m Up to thin crack and follow this to top. Tree belay.

FA: Bob Killip & Phil Prior, 1975

Trad 70m, 3 Moonbi slabs
1983
21 New Romantic

Start: An excellent friction slab. About 10m. right of 'Snakeskin Flake', scramble up over some large blocks to a ledge below a clean black slab with a corner crack on your right. Take 6 BR's and some Friends for the crack. No protection on last pitch!

  1. 30m (Crux) Up short corner on your right to top of block, then launch out up the slab, going slightly leftwards to start, then straight up past 4 BR's to a small stance and double bolt belay (one above the other).

  2. 30m Continue straight up slab, no protection, to rap chain belay.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Paul Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1983

Trad 60m, 2 Moonbi slabs
18 On the Slack

Start: At the righthand end of the Anteater slabs, below the prominent limp phallus (otherwise known as the Anteater'). Popular and well-protected.

Up easy slab, past a shallow crack to dish. Clip first BR from dish, step left then straight up past two more BR's to belay at the crack at the overlap on easier ground. (small to middle sized Friends).

FA: Al Stephens, Ed Sharpe & Paul Colyvan, 1983

Trad 35m Moonbi slabs
17 Slap and Tickle

Start: As for 'Snakeskin Flake'.

  1. 40m As for 'Snakeskin Flake' to the top of the flake, then step right over the overlap then up the slab (veering slightly right) to a double bolt belay.

  2. 30m Straight up the slab (no runners) then slightly right to the chains above 'New Romantic'.

FA: Paul Colyvan, Al Stephens & Larry Dixon, 1983

Trad 70m, 2 Moonbi slabs
1986
16 Hubba Bubba

Start: 1m right of 'Bubble Gum'. An excellent alternative start to Bubble Gum. This is now the way to go.

Layaway and jam up to the overlap crack then continue as for 'Bubble Gum'.

FA: Kevin Moore & Dave Worthington, 1986

Trad 40m Moonbi slabs
17 Cock and Pullet

Start: One of the best named climbs at Moonbi. At the crack start of 'Slabba-Dabba-Do'. An excellent climb but the protection is very poor. Don't fall!

  1. 45m Left and up onto slab, then straight up to some wire placements in a small groove at about 10m.,then straight up from here past two fixed hangers, then easier ground to double bolt belay (difficult to find).

  2. 6m Up slightly left to chain belay.

FA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1986

Trad 51m, 2 Moonbi slabs
20 Head Over Heels

Start: Originally graded 22 by the first ascent party who actually got off route! About 8m right of 'Slabba-Dabba-Do'. Yet another great route. Quite run out in the lower section and the last part of the second pitch. Don't fall off.

  1. 35m Up slab past 3 fixed hangers to ledge and double bolt belay.

  2. 20m Traverse out right and up past 2 more fixed hangers and a big bucket, then go straight up the line of easier buckets (no protection) to bolt anchors on top.

FA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1986

Trad 55m, 2 Moonbi slabs
22 Slow Fade

A long and sustained first pitch (best to do it in two pitches, belaying off double bolts), Double Ropes essential (make sure they are both a full 50m). Take one bolt bracket, eleven quick draws and a #1 Friend to back up the single bolt belay, and some wires to protect the short easier second pitch.

Start: The first slab on the main slabby face, right at the left-hand corner, a couple metres left of 'Freedom Crack'.

  1. 50m Use a stick to clip the first bolt, then climb (crux) directly up to it. Move up and left delicately to next bolt (a fall before clipping this results in a ground fall), then continue up broken flakes to cleaner friction slabs above and double bolts. Some parties belay here Continue up smooth slab to horizontal break, step up over this to bolt belay.(#1 Friend in break at your feet).

  2. 30m Straight up the final short crack as for 'Snakeskin Flake', then continue up to belay at trees.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1986

Trad 80m, 2 Moonbi slabs
21 Buck Buck Bacaw

Take 6 bolt brackets, a #2 Friend, and about 8 quickdraws. Start: Half-way between 'Head Over Heels' and 'On the Slack'. An easy slab followed by a steeper slabby wall. It's a beauty.

  1. 20m Up easy slab (one bolt runner) to just below headwall, Bolt belay plus number two friend in a pocket.(If in doubt use the 1st bolt on the headwall as well).

  2. 34m (crux) Up the headwall, step left, then straight up following the seam past 4 BR's,and a small chicken head at the start of easier moves. Belay on two bolts.

FA: Al Stephens, Richard Thomas & Larry Dixon, 1986

Trad 54m, 2 Moonbi slabs
1989
22 New Romantic-Direct Start

Start: At the slab 2m. left of the original corner crack start. A very scary direct start to the original route. Feeling lucky?

Straight up the black slab passing to the left of the first bolt(but clip it). It joins the original route at the second bolt. Continue as for original route.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Wade Fairly, 1989

Trad 30m Moonbi slabs
18 Henny Penny

Start: Very popular. Originally done as one pitch with huge rope drag. Most parties now belay approx. halfway, at the start of the steep section.

  1. 25m Straight up to the steep section.

  2. 25m Straight up, then move diagonally right, then straight up to top. Double bolt belay.

FA: Andrew Penny & Carl-Joan Jagusch, 1989

Trad 50m, 2 Moonbi slabs
1990
24 Head Over Heels-Direct Finish

Start: From the belay at the end of the first pitch. A hard and bold variant finish.

Straight up through the headwall above the belay past a BR. to a bolt belay.

FA: John Wilde, 1990

Trad 15m Moonbi slabs
1994
22 Fashion Conscious

Start: The slab between 'Snakeskin Flake' and 'New Romantic'. It needs a direct finish and a bold leader.

  1. 30m Straight up the slab via 4 BRs then traverse left to the double bolt belay of 'Slap And Tickle'

  2. 30m As for 'Slap And Tickle'.

FA: Paul Colyvan, 1994

Trad 60m, 2 Moonbi slabs
1997
21 Monitor’s Progress

The east side of the southern boulder at the top of the hill should reward the keen brusher. So far only one route exists. From the top of the hill, scramble 10m down the side of the boulder with the rising horizontal crack. Start: An the north-eastern corner, thinly up slab past staple to decent stance from which easier moves get the 2nd clip, over bulge past 2nd staple to easier ground and crack (wires, hexes). Tree and hex belay.

FA: Jinx, 1997

FFA: Jinx & Lisa Rew, 1999

Trad 20m Moonbi slabs
Common Stealth

About two-thirds up the hill on the eastern side of access ridge is a classic steep open book corner facing east. Start: Up finger to hand jam crack with good natural pro. Belay off trees and hexes

Set by Kevin Moore, 1997

TradProject 10m Moonbi slabs
17 Fast Track

An obvious crack runs up the west side of the first boulder. Harder than it looks - pro down low tricky to place. Some technical moves up crack (wires, SLCDs) to a good jug and easier to top. Belay in crack atop boulder. Down climb dead tree leaning against northern side.

FA: Dr Jim Morgan, 1997

Trad 8m Moonbi slabs
17 Centreline

A perfect hand jam up the eastern side of the Fast Rack weakness. A real pearl - if only it were 50m.

FA: Dr Jim Morgan, 1997

Trad 6m Moonbi slabs
Hi-Jinx

Start: 2m left L&H Hard start to clip first Staple of L&H then straight up past 2 more staples. Run out between 1st and 2nd staple.

Set by Kevin Moore & Danial Salem, 1997

TradProject 15m Moonbi slabs
10 A Might Trite

After crossing bridge, go east (right) and up the first gully passing the archery target. Start: The first line (facing east) on the western side of the access gully. Short crackline (wires) and easier finish to the right, the thin crack left looks good but needs brushing. Friends and hexes belay

FA: . Kevin Moore, 1997

Trad 7m Moonbi slabs
17/18 Goanna Groove

Start: 10m left of Common Delights a ramp runs into the slab at 5m. Balancey on ramp with good gear, bomber #4-6 Rock at RH end, up slab past 2 staples to ledge and easily to top. Belay of small fig, wires, SLCDs.

FA: Jinx & Lisa Rew, 1997

FFA: Jinx & Lisa Rew, 1999

Trad 15m Moonbi slabs
7 Jinx’s Line

On western side of access ridge about halfway to top of hill. Start: Below tiny overhang at 3m. Take the easiest line to the left watching for loose rock. A more technical version would be straight up the line through the overhang. (Crack above overhang looks like good gear but needs cleaning). Tree belay.

FA: Jinx & Kevin Moore, 1997

Trad 15m Moonbi slabs
20 Common Delights

At the top of the hill on the Northwest face of the main boulders a flake near a pine tree runs up to a short chimney affair at 8m. Mostly 14 apart from hard finish. Start: Bouldery start then nice moves up flake (2 staples) to ledge and good stance below short open chimney, up to ledge then steep wall on right with staple (20) OR up easy wall on left past fixed bracket. Belay in cracks taking care with goannas

FA: Kevin Moore & Jinx, 1997

FFA: Lisa Rew, 1999

Trad 15m Moonbi slabs
1999
Leo & Hamish

Start: 6m left CD. Takes the easiest line up the slab trending right to ramp past 3 Staples. Up thin crack on the block and BB of CD

FA: Leo & Hamish, 1999

Trad 15m Moonbi slabs
17/18 Goanna Groove

Start: 10m left of Common Delights a ramp runs into the slab at 5m. Balancey on ramp with good gear, bomber #4-6 Rock at RH end, up slab past 2 staples to ledge and easily to top. Belay of small fig, wires, SLCDs.

FA: Jinx & Lisa Rew, 1997

FFA: Jinx & Lisa Rew, 1999

Trad 15m Moonbi slabs
21 Monitor’s Progress

The east side of the southern boulder at the top of the hill should reward the keen brusher. So far only one route exists. From the top of the hill, scramble 10m down the side of the boulder with the rising horizontal crack. Start: An the north-eastern corner, thinly up slab past staple to decent stance from which easier moves get the 2nd clip, over bulge past 2nd staple to easier ground and crack (wires, hexes). Tree and hex belay.

FA: Jinx, 1997

FFA: Jinx & Lisa Rew, 1999

Trad 20m Moonbi slabs
20 Common Delights

At the top of the hill on the Northwest face of the main boulders a flake near a pine tree runs up to a short chimney affair at 8m. Mostly 14 apart from hard finish. Start: Bouldery start then nice moves up flake (2 staples) to ledge and good stance below short open chimney, up to ledge then steep wall on right with staple (20) OR up easy wall on left past fixed bracket. Belay in cracks taking care with goannas

FA: Kevin Moore & Jinx, 1997

FFA: Lisa Rew, 1999

Trad 15m Moonbi slabs
2014
V0 Crumble bum

Flat wall side of the boulder, to the top hill side has obvious features but is very crumbly.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 7 Jul 2014

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 7 Jul 2014

Boulder 5m Moonbi slabs
V0 Crumble bum

Flat wall side of the boulder, to the top hill side has obvious features but is very crumbly.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 7 Jul 2014

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 7 Jul 2014

Boulder 5m Moonbi slabs
2015
V0 Fumes traverse

Right to left traverse using the horizontal crack

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Tiarni Heemskerk, 11 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 11 Jul 2015

Boulder 3m Moonbi slabs
V0 Fumes traverse

Right to left traverse using the horizontal crack

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Tiarni Heemskerk, 11 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 11 Jul 2015

Boulder 3m Moonbi slabs
V1 Paterson

Use left side of the boulder and the crack

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 18 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 18 Jul 2015

Boulder 3m Moonbi slabs
V1 Paterson

Use left side of the boulder and the crack

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 18 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 18 Jul 2015

Boulder 3m Moonbi slabs
V0 Campese

Sit start

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

Boulder 3m Moonbi slabs
VB Monkey magic

Sit start, then use either side for hands, plenty of options for feet. The top out is hanging from the tip.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

Boulder 4m Moonbi slabs
VB Monkey magic

Sit start, then use either side for hands, plenty of options for feet. The top out is hanging from the tip.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

Boulder 4m Moonbi slabs
V1 two finger cloud summon

Up onto the mantle then up via the slippery mossy slab

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

Boulder 4m Moonbi slabs
V1 two finger cloud summon

Up onto the mantle then up via the slippery mossy slab

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

Boulder 4m Moonbi slabs
V0 The cosmic traverse

Start at the left very mossy end, launch onto mantle. move right till the corner and top out.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

Boulder 4m Moonbi slabs
V0 The cosmic traverse

Start at the left very mossy end, launch onto mantle. move right till the corner and top out.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

Boulder 4m Moonbi slabs
V0 Campese

Sit start

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 26 Jul 2015

Boulder 3m Moonbi slabs
p2

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 24 Nov 2015

BoulderProject 4m Moonbi slabs
V0 Highway Robbery

On the north end of the wall under the dihedral, has the best holds on the whole wall.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 24 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 24 Nov 2015

Boulder 2m Moonbi slabs
V0 Highway Robbery

On the north end of the wall under the dihedral, has the best holds on the whole wall.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 24 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 24 Nov 2015

Boulder 2m Moonbi slabs
VB explorers pass

Easy way up mid wall and easy down climb off

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 24 Nov 2015

Boulder 3m Moonbi slabs
p1

Just right and north of Highway Robbery

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 24 Nov 2015

BoulderProject 3m Moonbi slabs
2016
V1 The Thing

Sit down start on undercling and pinch, move left on crumbly features and mantle

Set by Isaac Searant, 2016

FA: Isaac Searant, 2016

Boulder 3m Moonbi slabs
V1 The Thing

Sit down start on undercling and pinch, move left on crumbly features and mantle

Set by Isaac Searant, 2016

FA: Isaac Searant, 2016

Boulder 3m Moonbi slabs
Open Project

Same start as "The Thing", move right on the undercling, up on sharp jugs and a tricky mantle. V2ish

Set by Isaac Searant, 2016

BoulderProject 3m Moonbi slabs
V2 Just hangin'

Sit down start under the face, layback up the arete and mantle.

FA: Isaac Searant

Set by Isaac Searant, 2016

Boulder 2m Moonbi slabs
V1 Get to the point

Start on side pull and arete. Plenty of good footers, but very mossy. mantle on the point.

Set by Isaac Searant, 2016

FA: Isaac Searant, 2016

Boulder 4m Moonbi slabs
V1 Get to the point

Start on side pull and arete. Plenty of good footers, but very mossy. mantle on the point.

Set by Isaac Searant, 2016

FA: Isaac Searant, 2016

Boulder 4m Moonbi slabs
V3 Sailor Moonbie

Stand start matched on the good sloper. Move up, pinch, high foot and layback. Mantle on the mossy jugs. Great climb.

FA: James vilimaa

Set by Isaac Searant, 2016

Boulder 4m Moonbi slabs
V0+ Funk Attack

Tricky crimpy start, then a nice traverse right. Avoid using the boulder behind till right at the end.

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 8 May 2016

Boulder 4m Moonbi slabs

Showing 1 - 100 out of 160 routes.