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History

Most of the climb descriptions for moonlight buttress were originally penned by Col Reece, and taken from the Moonlight Buttress guide by Col Reece.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
11 * Sweet Surrender Trad 15m

2m L of AFBPS. Corner, chimney, wiggle around the roof. Nice.

FA: Mark Barnett, Shane Mitchell, Colin Reece, 1997

2

Climb the wall 2m L of Tas. Penetrate a weakness at the overhang to finish in a thin crack.

FA: Mark Barnett, Shane Mitchell, 1997

3
12 Tas Trad 15m

The shallow corner and crack 3m L of Moonlet to a bushy ledge at 12m. Finish up the L face.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 1998

4
7 Moonlet Trad 14m

Up the vague crackline 2m L of SOL, passing just L of the roof at 4m, to a triangular summit block

FA: Paul Badenoch, Sonja Klebe, 1998

5
19 Satellite of Love Trad 15m

Up the broken crackline 1m L of the chimney, passing R of a V-shaped roof, to finish on the face just R of the arête. Use the block on the R for a cam placement only, or ignore it completely and place an RP a little higher (Michael Hartman and Colin Reece may have climbed a route near here in 1997).

FA: Paul Badenoch, 1998

6
11 Poor Pluto Trad 10m

Face between arete L of TRDNEIAL and the chimney.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Luke Adams, Pierre Ebbinghaus, 2008

7

10m L of KTBATHWD. Climb through the roof, place a cam, move up, place another, then layback up and L to the arête. Grab a jug and run it out to to the top.

FA: Mark Witham, Rob Lamp

8

9m L of Re- entry. The arête between the black chimney and the weathered scoop, tending R at the top.

FA: Rob Lamp, Mark Witham

9
2 Re-entry Trad

Easy access route. Scramble the joint crack come chimney. There is a bushy ledge 5m below the top.

10
17 Inner Space Trad 12m

L of LTUAE. Fun with fists. Take two or three #4 cams. If not, two 10cm tubes and some RPs.

FA: Colin Reece, Mike Rosato

11

7m L of OB, around the arête. Sensational climbing. Diagonal crack and flake to a ledge then the thin crack.

FA: Colin Reece, Mark Barnett

12
12 Ozone Baby Trad 15m

The corner.

FA: Brett Sedunary, Colin Reece, Paul Badenoch , 1999

13
24 ** Armstrong Trad 15m

A mixture of mandatory jamming and face climbing on lovely red rock.

Takes the obvious right-leaning crackline behind the tree stump, near the left-hand end of Red Dwarf wall.

Climb the crack, then climb straight to the gaps between the blocks at the top. Same finish as Echo Base.

FA: Garth Wimbush (TR), 2012

FFA: Garth Wimbush, 2nd Adam Clay, 2012

14
25 ** Echo Base Trad 18m

Starts directly in front of the big block at the base of the wall, 2m R of Armstrong's obvious crackline. Follow the left leaning line, finishing out through the slot at the top.

FA: Adam Clay, 2012

FFA: Adam Clay, 2nd Garth Wimbush, 2013

15
22 Bad Moon Rising Trad 16m

Direct line 2m L of Red Dwarf, just R of center of red wall. Finish L of block.

FA: Tim Macartney-Snape, Michael Hillan

16
23 ** Red Dwarf Trad 18m

Direct line on red wall 3m L of EOTH. Finish to the L of the summit block.

FA: Michael Hillan, Tim Macartney-Snape, 2008

17

The fourth, wider crack.

FA: unknown

18
15 Atlas Trad 15m

The third crack, straight and clean.

FA: Colin Reece

19

The second crack. Steep for 5m then easier.

FA: Mark Witham, Rob Lamp

20
14 Moonstone Trad

The corner 4m L of GS, then around the roof formed by the 'magic' perched block. Continue up the crack.

FA: Nick Wigg, Colin Reece

21
18 Cometary Debris Trad 15m

Begin as for GS, but continue through the overhang. Step L around a suspicious boulder and finish up the crack.

FA: Colin Reece, Paul Badenoch, Brett Sedunary , 1999

22
22 Getting Sirius Trad 17m

Up the crack L of the arête for 3m, then around the arête and climb the face near the thin crack. Hard to place wires and cams. Double ropes.

FA: Colin Reece, Nick Wigg

23
19 Moonquake Trad 15m

The arête with one brief detour onto the R face. Two small loose blocks at half height.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 1998

24
19 Space Disaster Trad 15m

Takes the superb wall L of BM. Place nuts as side runners at 5m. Begin in a niche at ground level and head straight up to the crux. Finish in the crack.

FA: Colin Reece, Michael Hartman, Mark Witham

25
12 Blue Moon Trad 18m

The big corner.

FA: Sonja Klebe, Paul Badenoch, 1998

26

Straight up the clean finger crack 2m R of the big corner.

FA: Nick Wigg, Colin Reece

28

A plumb line incorporating the corner of ANAT.

FA: Mark Witham, Rob Lamp

29

Begin 3m L of WDB. Ledge, corner, ledge, jamb crack.

FA: Rob Lamp, Mark Witham

30
14 What Drop Bear? Trad 14m

Up the small corner 1m L of LM, then through a small overhang to an easy angled crack.

FA: Mike Rosato, Colin Reece

31
20 Lunar Module Trad

Start 2m L of SO. R onto wall, then attack the overhang at the convenient crack. Saunter on.

FA: Colin Reece, Mike Rosato

32
18 Square Orbit Trad

Begin 3m L of the arête. Up for 3m, then R to a desperate weakness leading to a ledge. Wander over the back and climb a relatively easy corner.

FA: Colin Reece

33
6 Jovial Trad 6m

The L crack on the scrappy wall L of the debris.

FA: Colin Reece

34
19 Methane Rain Trad 14m

The wall 2m L of Jupiter to a ledge at 4m. Ignore the (surprisingly tricky) steps on the L and continue up the crack. Small wires and cams.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Michael Hillan, 2009

35
19 Jupiter Trad

An offwidth struggle 3m L of Artemis. Big cams, tubes to 15cm.

FA: Colin Reece, Nick Wigg

36
18 Artemis Trad

Fist crack and wider 4m L of Kanyaka. Big hexes, #4 cams, tubes to 15cm.

FA: Colin Reece, Shane Smeets

37
13 Kanyaka Trad 20m

The chimney crack with brief difficulties 5m L of DIS. Tubes / big hexes, cams.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 1998

38

The clean corner crack 2m L of FL.

FA: Colin Reece, Nick Wigg

39

The hand crack 7m L of the shattered flake. Through the bulge and on.

FA: Colin Reece, Greg Nicholls

40
11 Starry Night Trad 18m

The corner/chimney, the R wall of which is the 10m-high shattered flake. Finish straight up.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Vicki Kavanagh, 2014

41

The chimney 15m L of MS. Tubes protect the first 12m. Some loose rock.

FA: Colin Reece, Greg Nicholls

42
9 Moonlight Sonata Trad 18m

The chimney 2m L of GCTMT.

FA: Sonja Klebe, Paul Badenoch, 1998

43

The finger crack L of LT. Through a bulge then on to easier ground past a bush.

FA: Colin Reece, Shane Smeets

44
19 Lunar Tick Trad 15m

Begin 8m L of LO and 4m R of GCTMT. A bulgy start leads to a short R facing corner and a rest on a ledge.

FA: Colin Reece, Paul Badenoch, 1999

45
21 Lift Off Trad 15m

At R end of crag. Up to roof at 5m, move L with difficulty, weave up interesting wall.

FA: Tim Macartney-Snape, Michael Hillan, Luke Adams, Paul Badenoch, 2008

46

The boulder 15m R of the R end of Moonlight Buttress.

FA: Michael Hillan & Luke Adams, 2009

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