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Description

A pleasant place to spent a summer morning as the cliff faces SW and provides shade until midday, and shade most of the day in winter.

Routes are described left to right facing the cliff.

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Approach

From the Eastern end of 'Far Crag', descend the steep eroded track to the walking track along the creek. Head downstream for 50m and then cross the creek. The track goes up a gully and crosses some scree before arriving at the cliff.

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Ethic inherited from Morialta

Morialta is primarily a trad climbing and toproping area. Chipping, excessive chalk, litter and new bolts are all frowned upon and/or illegal.

Some routes have good natural gear, some have none (if the first ascensionist soloed it that is a good giveaway.) Most routes can be toproped and there are ring bollards in the more popular areas - use these where available and do not tie off to trees.

Any bolt repairs should be done in conjunction with the Climbing Club of South Australia.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
23 * Breathless Trad
2
13 Prickly Heat Trad
4
14 Hakea Trad 18m

Start: The ragged corner 10M right of the blackberry filled gully.

FA: Dave McNamara, John Dutton, 1973

5

Takes the line of bolts up the jagged arete just left of Gladiator's start. Re-equipped with a new lower-off.

FA: Stuart Willams and mark Witham, 1990

6

Straight up the layback flake to the chains (or beyond).

FA: Dave Nelson

7

Mixed pro.

FA: Mark Barnett and David Paull, 1989

8
19 As the Crowe Flies Trad 20m

Bolts L of Gladiator, stepping into that route to finish.

FA: Tony Barker, John Marshall, 2005

9
20 ** Gladiator Mixed 16m, 3

Takes the overhanging line just left of the corner (marked). Climb through the overhanging start (crux) to a stance just under a small roof, then reach out right and climb into the opposing corner. Continue up the line to a layback finish and chains.

10

Takes the poor-looking rock immediately left of the marked Olympus start, joining the upper corner via a reachy and powerful sequence. Was the original line until the loss of some holds.

FA: Col Reece

11

Climbs 'Gladiator' until into the corner, then drops down and traverses right across the lip of the Olympus roof via some pockets. Once at the arete, blast straight on up the face, finishing at chains.

12
24 * Direct Withdrawal Sport 22m

Climbs 'Gladiator Direct' into 'No Mustard' - thereby avoiding the contrived drop-down move. Very sustained. Recommended to stick clip the 1st traverse bolt from the ground prior to starting. Hard for the grade.

13
V6 ** Repetitive Strain Boulder

Sit-starts on the good edge left of the marked Olympus start (just right of 'Gladiator' Direct). Big move to the square jug at the start of Olympus, then reach right for underclings on the left edge of the small cave (feet on pillar only). Grab a positive edge on the lip, then dyno right to the large flared pinch. Swing feet onto the right-side of the cave and drop down to the finger jug at the start of 'The 'Warm Up' Traverse'. Has been linked into The 'Warm Up Traverse' & onwards up 'Japetus' Direct - which is worth 27 for effort!

FA: Dr G

14

FA: Dr G

15

Now superseded by 'Following A Feltch'. The original boulder problem start continuing rightwards past an old peg once through the initial roof.

FA: Stuart Williams, 2000

16

Climbs the initial boulder problem start of Olympus (V7/8), then breaks left through the main roof (instead of avoiding it - see 'Olympus') to join 'No Mustard On Withdrawal'

FA: Stuart Williams, 2000

17
28 Minor Threat Trad 12m

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

18
25 Kiss My Brain Sport 15m
19
20
V1 ** Warm Up Traverse Boulder

Starts on the right side of the small cave at a jug and finger pocket (left of the start of 'Pussycats'). Traverse right past a large sloper and block undercling to a rest beneath the start of 'Sardine'. Keep traversing right via sidepulls to drop down onto the large jug at the start of 'Japetus'.

21
V2 ** Warm Up Reverse Boulder

Climb The 'Warm Up Traverse' there and back.

22

Takes the line of ring bolts on the left side of 'Sardine', joining that route at its rest.

23
22 * Sardine Sport 21m

Starts just left of the 'Terrathea' corner and climbs up to the big sidepull sloper and two good edges. Clip the next bolt and launch out left (crux) to a big crank level with the small roof (rest). Cut back right - then left - until below the final face (rest). Continue to the chain. This route can also be done by going direct through the roof (at the same grade). Used to be regularly soloed by a certain climber who after about a year found a path leading to the top. Idiot.

24
22 * Sardine Direct Sport
25
18 ** Terrathea Trad 20m

The good-looking corner crack just right of 'Sardine'. Cruxy start, then once level with Sardine's 2nd bolt, it eases off (but not completely). Best finished by traversing left to the 'Sardine' chains.

FA: Dave McNamara, George Adams, Doug Mclean

26
22 Terra Incognita Trad 20m

Climb the reachy boulder-problem off the deck just right of the Terrethea crackline via a big move to the dubious flat jug. Continue up to the 'shield' (which is living on borrowed time) - then onwards up the face.

27

A really good combo route. Start as for Terrethea, but prior to its crux reach out right for the big flake of 'Terra Incognita'. Match this and continue up the line. Effectively dismisses the original 'Terra Incognita' reachy crux. Take some trad gear for the upper half of the wall - unless you want to scare yourself silly.

29
24 Two Hour Hole Trad 18m

Take 'Japetus' to the 'hole' - then launch up the left side of the arete past a small edge and a 'hidden' sidepull to the 'Japetus' break.

The original line continued up the face of 'Terra Incognita' - however cutting back right at the good rest and launching up the direct finish of 'Japetus' Direct makes for a far better route.

30
23 * Japetus Trad

The original route. Now superseded by the direct finish.

Start: Takes the very overhanging arete from its base up to the 'hole', then tacts right around the steep arete and up to the big break via a good undercling. This original line then stepped left and finished up the 'Terra Incognita' face.

FA: Kim Carrigan (all on trad), 2000

31

Originally established as a bold traditional outing by Kim Carrigan. Now retro-bolted with general consensus due to it residing in a largely sport-route populated area. Not surprisingly, it has now become one of the most travelled lines for its grade at 'Morialta'. Makes for a far better outing than the original. Once at the big break, climb straight up the continuation of the arete largely on its right border to finish at a chain.

FA: Kim Carrigan (all on trad), 2000

32
27 Japetus Extension Trad 30m

A boulder problem traverse link up into Japetus Direct Finish. Start (sit) left of base of Olympus - dyno rightwards and climb across cave to juggy traverse that leads underneath Sardine etc to base of Japetus. Continue up that route. Best done with a top-rope clipped in prior to embarking on the route itself. Basically a V5/6 problem into an existing 23.

FA: Dr G Hoffstetter

33

A more powerful version of 'Japetus'. Once at the large break, cut right up the rampline of 'Stench' and finish at that routes chain. Sustained.

34

FA: Finish up black streak right of last bolt

35

A worthwhile variant. Start as for 'The Stench' then once past its roof climb up to its good 'ear' edge and make a reach out left to the 'Japetus' undercling. Finish as for 'Japetus' Direct.

36

One of the best routes in the Gorge. Climb the roof right of the undercut arete (Japetus) via a large undercling. Get your breath back over the lip, then launch up and left (or go direct) to the obvious rampline. One final hard move remains, then large holds lead to the chain in a runout position (Cam optional). Unfortunatley the scene of some chipping circa 2008 when the crux slot on the face after the roof was altered to allow certain people's fingers to close crimp the hold. What they didn't know is that this route can be climbed direct up the face (slightly harder).

FA: Stuart Williams, 2000

37
22 Hyperion Sport 19m, 3

Begin at the Overhung Corner / Protruding Buttress right of Stench Before the Storm's face. Continue up the wall on good holds.

FA: Colin Reece (Aid 14 M4), 1972

FFA: Kimm Carrigan, Gary Scott, 1979

38
21 October Sport 12m

The line of bolts to the lower off on the short buttress R of the Hyperion corner. Stick clip recommended.

FA: ?

39
14 Fenceline Trad 19m
40
16 Debut Trad
41
11 Hanging Foul Trad
42
21 Get Smart Trad 15m
43
10 Moss Wall Trad
44
17 Passing Shadows Trad 15m
45
11 Thorn In My Side Trad 12m
46
12 Numbats Trad 8m
47
20 Blessed Ignorance Trad 13m

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