Thorn Buttress Rock climbing47 routes in cliff
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A pleasant place to spent a summer morning as the cliff faces SW and provides shade until midday, and shade most of the day in winter.
Routes are described left to right facing the cliff.©
Popular routes have lower offs.©
Ethic inherited from Morialta
Morialta is primarily a trad climbing and toproping area. Chipping, excessive chalk, litter and new bolts are all frowned upon and/or illegal.
Some routes have good natural gear, some have none (if the first ascensionist soloed it that is a good giveaway.) Most routes can be toproped and there are ring bollards in the more popular areas - use these where available and do not tie off to trees.
Any bolt repairs should be done in conjunction with the Climbing Club of South Australia.©
Bolts L of Gladiator, stepping into that route to finish.
FA: Tony Barker & John Marshall, 2005
Takes the overhanging line just left of the corner (marked). Climb through the overhanging start (crux) to a stance just under a small roof, then reach out right and climb into the opposing corner. Continue up the line to a layback finish and chains.
Takes the poor-looking rock immediately left of the marked Olympus start, joining the upper corner via a reachy and powerful sequence. Was the original line until the loss of some holds.
FA: Col Reece
Climbs 'Gladiator' until into the corner, then drops down and traverses right across the lip of the Olympus roof via some pockets. Once at the arete, blast straight on up the face, finishing at chains.
Climbs 'Gladiator Direct' into 'No Mustard' - thereby avoiding the contrived drop-down move. Very sustained. Recommended to stick clip the 1st traverse bolt from the ground prior to starting. Hard for the grade.
Sit-starts on the good edge left of the marked Olympus start (just right of 'Gladiator' Direct). Big move to the square jug at the start of Olympus, then reach right for underclings on the left edge of the small cave (feet on pillar only). Grab a positive edge on the lip, then dyno right to the large flared pinch. Swing feet onto the right-side of the cave and drop down to the finger jug at the start of 'The 'Warm Up' Traverse'. Has been linked into The 'Warm Up Traverse' & onwards up 'Japetus' Direct - which is worth 27 for effort!
FA: Dr G
FA: Dr G
Now superseded by 'Following A Feltch'. The original boulder problem start continuing rightwards past an old peg once through the initial roof.
FA: Stuart Williams, 2000
Climbs the initial boulder problem start of Olympus (V7/8), then breaks left through the main roof (instead of avoiding it - see 'Olympus') to join 'No Mustard On Withdrawal'
FA: Stuart Williams, 2000
FA: Sharik Walker, 2000
Takes the line of ring bolts on the left side of 'Sardine', joining that route at its rest.
Starts just left of the 'Terrathea' corner and climbs up to the big sidepull sloper and two good edges. Clip the next bolt and launch out left (crux) to a big crank level with the small roof (rest). Cut back right - then left - until below the final face (rest). Continue to the chain. This route can also be done by going direct through the roof (at the same grade).