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Description

Far crag is so named as it is the furthest up the gorge (climbers progressively exploring their way up the gorge started at the bottom.)

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Access issues inherited from Morialta

Part of the area is located within the Morialta Conservation Park.

Approach

From Norton Summit Road Gate 17, follow the 4wd track for 5 minutes and up a rise. Where the 4wd track swings west continue straight over the meadow and 100m down a track and some steps to the top of the cliff.

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Descent notes

Descent can be made at either end of the cliff. The North-West end (directly in front of the track as it reaches the top of the crag) is easier and causes less erosion.

A steep eroded track below the South Eastern end (furthest from the descent track) of the cliff meets the walking trail along the bottom of the gorge. This can be used to access 'Thorn Buttress'

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Ethic inherited from Morialta

Morialta is primarily a trad climbing and toproping area. Chipping, excessive chalk, litter and new bolts are all frowned upon and/or illegal.

Some routes have good natural gear, some have none (if the first ascensionist soloed it that is a good giveaway.) Most routes can be toproped and there are ring bollards in the more popular areas - use these where available and do not tie off to trees.

Any bolt repairs should be done in conjunction with the Climbing Club of South Australia.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

"The front of the little buttress at the very left of the cliff. The crux is getting through the blackberries." Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Erik Lock & Nick Neagle, 1991

The unnattractive flaring groove left of Vug. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton & Craig Hiill, 1968

Up to a bushy ledge near the left end of the cliff then the corner on the right. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Craig Hill, Mike Ashton & Graham Hill, 1968

The steep arete left of 'Aries' gives way to ledge hopping.

FA: Colin Reece & Eddie Ozols, 1975

Start: The vertical crack 1 metre right of the arete has an interesting first few moves.

FA: Mike Ashton, Terry Prime & Mike Waite., 1968

A tough start with some suss rock leads to a ledge below a short corner with a wide crack. Overcome this and another tricky corner to finish.

Start: The centre of the wall between 'Aries' and do Not Drop.

FA: AUMC, 1960

The shallow left facing corner and the square cut corner above. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Mike Waite & Mike Ashton, 1968

Start: Climb the middle of the wall between 'Do Not Drop' and 'This Way Up' to reach a narrow projecting buttress. Finish up the front of this.

FA: Mike Waite & Mike Ashton, 1968

The easy corner and wide chimney

FA: Mike Waite & Mike Ashton, 1968

Start: The grooved arete left of 'Pedagogue' is gained directly.

FA: Colin Reece & Eddie Ozols, 1975

(P) The curving left facing corner with a steep start. The most popular climb at this end of the crag. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton & Dave McNamara, 1968

The rock could break too. Up the overhanging right side of the arete right of Pedagogue to a ledge. Continue up the arete. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Rod Young & Gary Scott, 1979

(F) The protection is reasonable, but take note of the name. Sustained climbing up to the ledge then short wall to finish. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Colin Reece & Mike James

FFA: Gary Scott, 1979

Beigin beneath a broad blade right of fragile. Climb directly up to it and continue past a sheok

FA: Mike James, 1975

Start: Climb steeply and directly to gain a corner left of 'Shonarch'.

FA: 1973

(S) A steep, scrappy start leads to an arete and the front of the tower above. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Richard Horn, 1970

FFA: Colin Reece, 1976

Start: The corner bounding the left side of Pizzaz wall is guarded by an overhanging start.

FA: Mike Waite & Mike Ashton, 1968

The face on the left of the 'Barad Dur' wall, avoiding the corner. Climb on crimps following the line of bolts up the face.

Start: You can begin as for 'Barad Dur' or from directly below the route proper.

Start as for Barad Dur to ledge. Tiptoe left to directly below the first bolt on of Pizazz. Move up clipping this, and trend up a line right of the Pizazz bolts to a horizontal level with the 3rd. Breathe deeply and commit to the increasingly run out crux section with gear awaiting near the top (small cam). Uses 3 bolts on Pizzaz prior to the cam placement. Crux at the 3rd.

FA: Ed Heddle, 2013

Set by Ed Heddle, 2013

Set by Adam Clay, 2013

FA: Adam Clay, 2013

FFA: Ed Heddle, 2013

FFA: Steve Kelly, 2014

Start as for Barad Dur. Once on the ledge step left so that you are below and 1m left of Barad Dur's crackline and climb directly up, staying within a metre of the crack. If you're on route the first bolt of Pizazz can be clipped prior to heading up but then you are relying on side runners in Barad Dur.

FA: Simon Wilson, 1998

Swing up the steep juggy wall immediately left of Eternal Damnation's undercut arete past a big rattly block to a ledge. Step right and go up to the roof. Now make a cramped step back left past a bolt onto an undercut wall to reach the base of the crack. Straight up the crack.

FA: Stuart Fishwick & Richard Horn, 1970

Start: Follow Barrud Dur to the roof, then nip back right under this to a crack, which is climbed.

FA: David Moriarty & Mike Waite, 1968

The face between Eternal Damnation's Arete and Lord's Prayer's Corner. Both of these routes are off limits. Begin as for Eternal Damnation and then continue up the face avoiding the arete of Eternal Damnation and corner of Lord's Prayer.

FA: Adam Clay, 2009

Worth its grade for the start and some nice bridging moves up the corner.

Start: Up the left hand corner to the right of 'Shewoodenduit'.

FA: George Adams, 1969

Crux is essential unprotected, not a good climb for a grade 17 leader

Start: Start at the boulder and make a nice move to gain the V - corner.

Start: Climb the orange rock just left of Arev. Grab a poor rest below the roof, pull around this on the left to gain a crack in the head wall.

FA: 2006

Start: Start from the olive tree. Up the open corner. Great introductory route.

FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton & Terry Prime, 1968

The arete just right of Sheoak Corner

FA: Rodger Alldritt, 1975

FFA: John Marshal, 1979

Climb the groove to a ramp below the roof. Over the roof and follow the crack.

FA: Stuart Fishwick, George Adams & John Dutton, 1970

Start: Over the bulge 1 metre right of 'Golgotha'. Up to the ledge right of the nose. Head up the groove just right of the arete.

FA: Mike Waite & Mike Ashton, 1968

Up crack 1m R of Golgotha to base of rib. Place good #1 cam. Straight up rib to stance at start of Tai Otoshi's groove. Finish up that route.

FFA: Paul Badenoch & Mark Witham, 2012

Wall with thin crack between Tai-o-Toshi and Ob-La-Di. Wouldn't be a FA, this may flush out the truth.

FA: Paul Badenoch & Cynthia Palfreyman, 2005

The central line on the wall, taking care not to fall astride the sharp blade. Fortunately the protection is adequate. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Mike Waite & Graham Hill, 1968

The corner on the right end of the red wall. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Mike Waite, 1968

The unappealing corner left of the Bung wall.

The Bung Wall has several variants, none of which you would want to fall off whilst leading.

Wall left of Bung Direct, staying out of the corner and not touching the central crack.

FA: TR Kim Karrigan, 1979

FFA: Nick Neagle, 1988

The central crack. The first (aided) route up the wall took 16 years before it went free.

FA: Richard Horn & Stuart Fishwick (A3), 1968

FFA: Most likely Mike Law-Smith, 1984

"Original" in that it was the first variant on the wall to go free.

Climb 'Bung Direct' to below the crux, step R, make a move up and then back L to the crack.

FA: "Hot" Henry Barber, 1975

The most common way up the wall. Follow 'Bung Original' but do not move back L. Finish up the face between the crack and arete.

FA: Unknown

Climb the R side of the wall, the crack and arete are off limits.

FA: TR Colin Reece, 1979

Lace the crack up with cams and nuts. Has a nice move just before topping out.

Start: Climb the vertical crack just right of bung wall.

FA: David Moriarty, Stuart Fishwick & Christine Shedley, 1968

The corner R of 'Shedidit'

The black streak L of Illequipt, using that route for protection only.

Start up Illequipt Left Side and then move up and R into the Illequipt crack.

Climb the wall left of Al Sirrat, starting at a small arete. At half height, step L into the crack.

Climb 'Illequipt' to half height, then continue straight up the thin crack. The Illequipt crack and the arete are off limits.

The obvious arete. Not well protected.

The wall left of Asgard. Not allowed to use Asgard's holds.

FA: Tony Barker & Paul Gray

Follow the flake in the centre of the first wall left of the descent route.

Stay R of the crack for holds and protection. The acronym was Mark's idea.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Mark Witham, Chris Oerman & David Newell, 2009

Ledges and large cracks on the R of the asgard wall. The groove through the overhang is awkward.

Full traverse of Far Crag!

Around R of the descent.

FA: 1979

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