Far Crag Mostly trad climbing72 routes in cliff
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Far crag is so named as it is the furthest up the gorge (climbers progressively exploring their way up the gorge started at the bottom.)©
From Norton Summit Road Gate 17, follow the 4wd track for 5 minutes and up a rise. Where the 4wd track swings west continue straight over the meadow and 100m down a track and some steps to the top of the cliff.©
Descent can be made at either end of the cliff. The North-West end (directly in front of the track as it reaches the top of the crag) is easier and causes less erosion.
A steep eroded track below the South Eastern end (furthest from the descent track) of the cliff meets the walking trail along the bottom of the gorge. This can be used to access 'Thorn Buttress'©
Ethic inherited from Morialta
Morialta is primarily a trad climbing and toproping area. Chipping, excessive chalk, litter and new bolts are all frowned upon and/or illegal.
Some routes have good natural gear, some have none (if the first ascensionist soloed it that is a good giveaway.) Most routes can be toproped and there are ring bollards in the more popular areas - use these where available and do not tie off to trees.
Any bolt repairs should be done in conjunction with the Climbing Club of South Australia.©
Worth its grade for the start and some nice bridging moves up the corner.
Start: Up the left hand corner to the right of 'Shewoodenduit'.
FA: George Adams, 1969
Crux is essential unprotected, not a good climb for a grade 17 leader
Start: Start at the boulder and make a nice move to gain the V - corner.
Start: Climb the orange rock just left of Arev. Grab a poor rest below the roof, pull around this on the left to gain a crack in the head wall.