Far Crag Mostly trad climbing

71 routes in crag

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Description

Far crag is so named as it is the furthest up the gorge (climbers progressively exploring their way up the gorge started at the bottom.)

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Approach

From Norton Summit Road Gate 17, follow the 4wd track for 5 minutes and up a rise. Where the 4wd track swings west continue straight over the meadow and 100m down a track and some steps to the top of the cliff.

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Ethic inherited from Morialta

Morialta is primarily a trad climbing and toproping area. Chipping, excessive chalk, litter and new bolts are all frowned upon and/or illegal.

Some routes have good natural gear, some have none (if the first ascensionist soloed it that is a good giveaway.) Most routes can be toproped and there are ring bollards in the more popular areas - use these where available and do not tie off to trees.

Any bolt repairs should be done in conjunction with the Climbing Club of South Australia.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
8 Thrash Piggies Trad 12m

"The front of the little buttress at the very left of the cliff. The crux is getting through the blackberries." Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Erik Lock, Nick Neagle, 1991

2
6 Tequila Trad 16m

The unnattractive flaring groove left of Vug. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton, Craig Hiill, 1968

3
4 Vug Trad 16m

Up to a bushy ledge near the left end of the cliff then the corner on the right. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Craig Hill, Mike Ashton, Graham Hill, 1968

4
13 Mossy Edge Trad 17m

The steep arete left of 'Aries' gives way to ledge hopping.

FA: Colin Reece, Eddie Ozols, 1975

5
9 Aries Trad 17m

Start: The vertical crack 1 metre right of the arete has an interesting first few moves.

FA: Mike Ashton, Terry Prime, Mike Waite., 1968

6
12 Garden Wall Trad 17m

A tough start with some suss rock leads to a ledge below a short corner with a wide crack. Overcome this and another tricky corner to finish.

Start: The centre of the wall between 'Aries' and do Not Drop.

FA: AUMC, 1960

7
8 Do Not Drop Trad 17m

The shallow left facing corner and the square cut corner above. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton, 1968

8
11 Handle With Care Trad 18m

Start: Climb the middle of the wall between 'Do Not Drop' and 'This Way Up' to reach a narrow projecting buttress. Finish up the front of this.

FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton, 1968

9
7 This Way Up Trad 18m

The easy corner and wide chimney

FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton, 1968

10
13 Export Quality Trad 21m

Start: The grooved arete left of 'Pedagogue' is gained directly.

FA: Colin Reece, Eddie Ozols, 1975

11
12 Pedagogue Trad 20m

(P) The curving left facing corner with a steep start. The most popular climb at this end of the crag. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton, Dave McNamara, 1968

12
18 Levee Breaks Trad 20m

The rock could break too. Up the overhanging right side of the arete right of Pedagogue to a ledge. Continue up the arete. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Rod Young, Gary Scott, 1979

13
18 Fragile Trad 21m

(F) The protection is reasonable, but take note of the name. Sustained climbing up to the ledge then short wall to finish. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Colin Reece, Mike James

FFA: Gary Scott, 1979

14

Beigin beneath a broad blade right of fragile. Climb directly up to it and continue past a sheok

FA: Mike James, 1975

15
13 Use No Hooks Trad 21m

Start: Climb steeply and directly to gain a corner left of 'Shonarch'.

FA: 1973

16
17 Shonarch Trad 21m

(S) A steep, scrappy start leads to an arete and the front of the tower above. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Richard Horn, 1970

FFA: Colin Reece, 1976

17
13 Hieroglyph Trad 21m

Start: The corner bounding the left side of Pizzaz wall is guarded by an overhanging start.

FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton, 1968

18
23 ** Pizazz Trad 21m

The face on the left of the 'Barad Dur' wall, avoiding the corner. Climb on crimps following the line of bolts up the face.

Start: You can begin as for 'Barad Dur' or from directly below the route proper.

19

Start either for Pizazz or Barad Dur (the better quality option) and climb the blank wall between Pizazz and 'Barad Dur' using side runnners in the latter climb.

FA: Simon Wilson

20
22 *** Barad Dur Mixed 20m, 1

Swing up the steep juggy wall immediately left of Eternal Damnation's undercut arete past a big rattly block to a ledge. Step right and go up to the roof. Now make a cramped step back left past a bolt onto an undercut wall to reach the base of the crack. Straight up the crack.

FA: Stuart Fishwick, Richard Horn, 1970

22
19 Shewoodenduit Trad 20m

Start: Follow Barrud Dur to the roof, then nip back right under this to a crack, which is climbed.

FA: David Moriarty, Mike Waite, 1968

23
17 Shewoodenduit LHF Trad 20m
24
23 Eternal Damnation Trad 18m
25

The face between Eternal Damnation's Arete and Lord's Prayer's Corner. Both of these routes are off limits. Begin as for Eternal Damnation and then continue up the face avoiding the arete of Eternal Damnation and corner of Lord's Prayer.

FA: Adam Clay, 2009

26
15 * Lords Prayer Trad 17m

Worth its grade for the start and some nice bridging moves up the corner.

Start: Up the left hand corner to the right of 'Shewoodenduit'.

27
19 Sermon Trad 17m
28
18 Sermon RHF Trad 17m
29
19 Pulpit Trad 15m
30
17 Alms Trad 15m
31
14 Joseph Trad 14m
32
19 Tabraj Trad 14m
33
17 R ** Resurrection Trad 14m

Crux is essential unprotected, not a good climb for a grade 17 leader

Start: Start at the boulder and make a nice move to gain the V - corner.

34
24 * Klutz Trad 13m
35
21 * Klutz Connection Trad 14m
36
22 * Cioch Trad 14m

Start: Climb the orange rock just left of Arev. Grab a poor rest below the roof, pull around this on the left to gain a crack in the head wall.

37
15 Arev Trad 14m

FA: 2006

38
17 Road Show Trad 14m
39
12 * Sheoak Corner Trad 15m

Start: Start from the olive tree. Up the open corner. Great introductory route.

FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton, Terry Prime, 1968

40
18 Sheoak Arete Trad 15m

The arete just right of Sheoak Corner

FA: Rodger Alldritt, 1975

FFA: John Marshal, 1979

41
16 * Golgotha Trad 15m

Climb the groove to a ramp below the roof. Over the roof and follow the crack.

FA: Stuart Fishwick, George Adams, John Dutton, 1970

42
15 Tai-o-Toshi Trad 15m

Start: Over the bulge 1 metre right of 'Golgotha'. Up to the ledge right of the nose. Head up the groove just right of the arete.

FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton, 1968

43

Up crack 1m R of Golgotha to base of rib. Place good #1 cam. Straight up rib to stance at start of Tai Otoshi's groove. Finish up that route.

FFA: Paul Badenoch, Mark Witham, 2012

44
15 Shemademedoit Trad 15m

Wall with thin crack between Tai-o-Toshi and Ob-La-Di. Wouldn't be a FA, this may flush out the truth.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Cynthia Palfreyman, 2005

45
16 Ob-la-di Trad 17m

The central line on the wall, taking care not to fall astride the sharp blade. Fortunately the protection is adequate. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Mike Waite, Graham Hill, 1968

46
14 Gunga Din Trad 18m

The corner on the right end of the red wall. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Mike Waite, 1968

47
6 Yggdrasil Trad 13m
48
7 Drop Dead Trad
49
12 Sentry Box Trad 11m
50
19 Sentry Box RHV Trad 10m
51
6 Cork Trad

The unappealing corner left of the Bung wall.

The Bung Wall has several variants, none of which you would want to fall off whilst leading.

52
24 Bung Left Trad 13m

Wall left of Bung Direct, staying out of the corner and not touching the central crack.

FA: TR Kim Karrigan, 1979

FFA: Nick Neagle, 1988

53
23 X * Bung Direct / Bung Trad 13m

The central crack. The first (aided) route up the wall took 16 years before it went free.

FA: Richard Horn, Stuart Fishwick (A3), 1968

FFA: Most likely Mike Law-Smith, 1984

54
20 X ** Bung Original Trad 13m

"Original" in that it was the first variant on the wall to go free.

Climb 'Bung Direct' to below the crux, step R, make a move up and then back L to the crack.

FA: "Hot" Henry Barber, 1975

55
20 ** Bung RHF Trad 13m

The most common way up the wall. Follow 'Bung Original' but do not move back L. Finish up the face between the crack and arete.

FA: Unknown

56
21 X * Bung Totally Right Trad 13m

Climb the R side of the wall, the crack and arete are off limits.

FA: TR Colin Reece, 1979

57
15 * Shedidit Trad 13m

Lace the crack up with cams and nuts. Has a nice move just before topping out.

Start: Climb the vertical crack just right of bung wall.

FA: David Moriarty, Stuart Fishwick, Christine Shedley, 1968

58
7 Sunout Trad

The corner R of 'Shedidit'

60

The black streak L of Illequipt, using that route for protection only.

61
19 * A Quiet Chat Trad 13m

Start up Illequipt Left Side and then move up and R into the Illequipt crack.

62
18 * Illequipt Trad 14m

Climb the wall left of Al Sirrat, starting at a small arete. At half height, step L into the crack.

63
20 R The Crunge Trad 14m

Climb 'Illequipt' to half height, then continue straight up the thin crack. The Illequipt crack and the arete are off limits.

64
8 Al Sirrat Trad 14m

The obvious arete. Not well protected.

65
4 Mud in Yer Eye Trad 14m
66
22 Legato Fae Trad 14m

The wall left of Asgard. Not allowed to use Asgard's holds.

FA: Tony Barker, Paul Gray

67
16 * Asgard Trad 15m

Follow the flake in the centre of the first wall left of the descent route.

68

Stay R of the crack for holds and protection. The acronym was Mark's idea.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Mark Witham, Chris Oerman, David Newell, 2009

69
8 Cinch Trad 14m

Ledges and large cracks on the R of the asgard wall. The groove through the overhang is awkward.

70
16 The Scenic Trad 150m

Full traverse of Far Crag!

71

Around R of the descent.

FA: 1979

Open trips

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